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most part trifling, although in the arrangement and dresses. The tablier requires to be draped and fastened retroussis of the tablier a great deal depends on per- at the back with a peculiar chic, and it would be vain

to attempt to give an idea of the various combinations of loopings up imagined even while the dress is being tried on; none of these arrangements are any of them exactly alike. In general, however, the tablier is stretched plain, and fixed by bows of different style, some forming the large double loops called "coques," placed one above the other en cascade, others daintily chiffoned écharpes, etc. As trimmings, plissés are more and more in vogue, fine regular plissés stitched down three or four times across the top; then there are ruches and coulissés, closely gathered bouillonnés and narrow bias; besides which, fringe is generally added to all these trimmings, made up of the dress material, or of some other fabric to correspond: the mixture of self-coloured with plaided, striped or figured tissues. The latter, however, though tolerated by Fashion, is by no means so much in favour as the others. In making up a complete costume of selfcoloured material, the fancy material-striped or plaided -may be used for the trimmings and all accessories, such as revers, collar, parements, flounces, bias and ruches, and should always be cut on the cross. When plain and fancy materials are used in about equal quantities, the plain is very generally used for the skirt and the fancy for the tablier and cuirasse. This rule, however, does not always hold good. At the races in the Bois de Boulogne, some very elegant costumes appeared, composed of faille skirts in a large plaid pattern, and a tunic of fine cashmere or beige material, plain grey or écru. For little girls, also, the skirt is often made of plaid material. Thus, skirt of blue and white plaid mohair, and corsage to match. Long basque, in the shape of a tablier, put on at the back. The basque of plain blue mohair, with sash bow of white and blue material. Sleeves of the plain mohair.

Beige and mohair are favourite materials for summer costumes for the country, or for morning wear. The two following are of an elegant simplicity:

The first is of two shades of sepia mohair, skirt trimmed with one fine plissé of dark mohair and one of a lighter shade above it; next, three bias folds, and again a fine light coloured plissé and three bias folds. The tunic, of plain light sepia mohair, is simply trimmed with five rows of soutache of the darker shade, and draped at the sides in four large hollow pleats, so as to form a tablier in front; at the back it falls in two long pointed lappets, tucked up in the upper part. Cuirasse bodice, with long basque and open in front, with fine mohair plissé, forming collarette and jabot, and plissé as cuffs to the sleeves. All this is of the lighter shade, trimmed with dark sepia soutache and buttons. This pretty costume would look equally well in two shades of grey or mauve.

The second is of beige material; the skirt trimmed with two gathered flounces, which are deepened at the back so as to form the train. Each flounce is edged with a band of black velvet, short tablier and shawl points at the back; also trimmed with a band of black velvet. The retroussis is very prettily fastened up with black velvet lappets. The bodice is trimmed so as to simulate a gilet,

with two bands of black velvet and a double fluting of the beige material edged with narrow black velvet. Light beige sleeves, with parements composed of alternate velvet and beige bias.

A more dressy toilette is of lilac taffetas. The skirt is put on in close gathers behind, plain and gored in front. It is trimmed round the bottom with a fine deep plissé, stitched down twice, headed by two bouillonnés-the upper one with a plissé heading. A wide écharpe of brocaded ribbon of a deeper shade of lilac is thrown round the skirt and tied on the left side, but very much at the back, in a loose bow with drooping loops, the upper part of the skirt being very slightly puffed at the top. Cuirasse bodice with rather short basque, rounded at the back, peaked in front; long bows of narrower brocaded ribbon upon the back of the bodice-one at the waist and one at the neck. Similar bows upon the parements of the coat sleeves.

A croizette of blue silk is made thus: The front part is trimmed with a series of small coulissé bouillonnés, divided by narrow flutings. The sides have a trimming of gathered flounces, headed with bouillonnés put on slantways; on either side of this trimming, dividing it from the front and back parts, there is a bouillonné put on perpendicularly, with very narrow frilling on either side. The train at the back is plain, except for five small flounces at the bottom. The bodice is very long waisted; a bouillonné similar to those of the skirt, but in reduced proportions, is put on either side in front, while the middle part forms a sort of plain gilet open, with white lace, trilling. A deep fluting is put on round the basque behind. The sleeves are gathered into narrow coulissés all the way down, and finished with a fluting.

A very elegant dress for the evening is of pearl grey taffetas. All the fulness of the dress is thrown to the back, the front part forming a long square tablier gathered in under five tiny coulissé bouillonnés on each side, and finished with a drapery lined with pale rose-coloured silk from which flows at the back a train of point lace over a still deeper train of grey silk, which sweeps the ground without any further trimming. The corners of the square tablier are fastened at the back by bows of mixed pearl grey and rose-coloured faille ribbon; it is edged round the bottom by a double ruche of rose-coloured faille and a deep flounce of point lace, which falls over a plissé of pearl grey faille, terminating the skirt in front. The low plain cuirasse bodice is laced behind. It is trimmed with a round berthe of point lace, with ruche and bows of rosecoloured faille. Coiffure of large coques and curls, with wreath of roses.

Another evening dress, for a young lady, is of much simpler style: Under slip of pale blue taffetas; the blue skirt trimmed round the bottom with three box-pleated flounces. An upper-skirt of blue tulle is trimmed diagonally with white tulle ruches and borders of white blond. A wide écharpe of blue faille is pleated at the waist, and falls in two long lappels, forming the train behind. Low

cuirasse bodice laced behind, trimmed round the top with two tiny white tulle ruches and a white blonde border. Cluster of Gloire de Dijon roses upon the bosom and in the hair.

The variety in Chapeaux is greater than ever. We select a few tasteful models suitable for this month.

First, an Orphée bonnet of white straw, with very wide border, lined with black velvet; and underneath, resting upon the hair, a wreath of large white Marguerites, with buds and foliage. Echarpe of crème brocaded ribbon round the crown tied in a large bow, from which droops a spray of the same blossoms.

A black chip bonnet with raised border, very high in front, trimmed with an écharpe of cardinal-red brocaded ribbon, a bunch of cream-white heather blossoms and long blackcock's feather drooping at the back. Under the border a light wreath of heather blossoms over a bandeau of black velvet, finished in long loops and lappets behind.

A bonnet of grey fancy straw of the Mignon shape, oval crown and deep flat border, placed very much at the back of the head. Round the crown wreath of ivy leaves and its small black berries, mixed in front with a tuft of long grasses and crimson poppies.

A black straw bonnet, with border raised in front and lowered at the back. This border is lined with dark blue faille, and a full wreath of lilies of the valley is placed inside. This wreath is lengthened on one side into a

long spray, trailing over the hair. On the other side it is finished by a large bow of dark blue faille. The upper part of the bonnet is trimmed with bows of the same colour.

A Deshoulière bonnet in the Shepherdess style is of white chip, with torsade of pale rose-coloured surah, brocaded foulard round the crown, forming an aigrette of large coques on one side, and drooping into a Catogan of long loops behind, with cluster of pearl-like heather blossoms. Round the torsade of rose-coloured foulard, wreath of white heather. Inside, bouillonné of white tulle and three small sprays of heather.

And a travelling hat of black straw, with high crown and brim, slightly turned up at the sides, and edged with beaded braid. Round the crown, wide band of black silk braid covered with small loops of black jet beads. At the side, large aigrette bow of black ribbon, put on with a bird's head.

The new Sunshades of the season are of light-coloured silk, with a spray of flowers embroidered on one side, in natural tints. The bouquet should be matched to the trimming of the bonnet. The handle is thick, the flat round knob at the top is of old Saxe porcelain, rococo jewellery, or tortoise-shell starred with gold.

For the country, the sunshade is of raw silk lined with light green, blue, or pink, and with a bow of ribbon to match the lining on the top. The handle is of Chinese bamboo.

DESCRIPTION OF OUR COLOURED FASHION PLATE.
WALKING DRESSES.

1. Skirt of black taffetas, made just to touch the ground, and encircled by four gathered flounces, with tunic buttoned in front, and drawn up behind under a coquillé. Over this a tablier of lilac foulard, cut in a point (on which is placed a bow) in front, and trimmed with at gathered flounce. It is arranged in a number of pleats at the back, with a large bow. The bodice is of foulard, open in front, with a double turned-back collar, and necktie of white surah tied in a loose knot. The fronts, ornamented with buttons to match, form a waistcoat under the basques, which are rounded at the sides and short at the back, and simply bound with a crossway band of the same. The sleeves have double cuffs, also bound with crossway bands, and are finished with a strap and button. The chemisette and under-sleeves are either in rich lace or embroidery. Straw bonnet, with turned-up brim, lined with lilac surah, with wreath of flowers in front. The crown ornamented with a scarf of

DESCRIPTION OF OUR Cut-out paper pattern of basque bodice in two colours, with fashionable pleat down the back. This model consists of seven pieces, viz., front, half of back, side piece, top of sleeve, under portion of ditto; and the coloured

surah tied in a bow behind, and white feathers at the top.

2. Costume in beige Cashmere and Madras. Skirt of the Cashmere made just to touch the ground, and trimmed with a flounce 16 inches deep, edged with a broad crossway band of the Madras. Tunic of the Cashmere edged with a broad crossway band of the Madras, caught up and fastened at the back with a bow of ribbon to match. The bodice is of Madras, with square cut basques that end abruptly at the sides; it is open in front, with a broad scarf of beige finished by a bow. The sleeves have cuffs of the Cashmere fastened over little quilled flounces of the same by buttons to match. Lingerie of embroidered muslin. Bonnet of Italian straw, with band of Madras and bouquet of corn flowers under the brim; the crown trimmed with a scarf of the Madras with long falling end, and wreath of the corn flowers carried all round.

CUT-OUT PAPER PATTERN.

trimmings, namely, cuff and half of coloured pleat down the back, which must be folded in four pleats, quite narrow at the waist, where the pattern is notched, wider at the neck, and forming box-pleat on the basque.

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335.-COSTUME OF SELF-COLOURED AND STRIPED TOILE-DE-LAINE.

Skirt of rale grey toile-de-laine, with deep closely pleated flounce. At the back a broad double box pleat is arranged as a train, the centre fold being striped black and grey toile. Above the flounce are three vandyked pieces of toile, edged with bands of grey grosgrain silk and deep fringe; three bows of silk define the outlines of these vandykes down the centre of the front. Jacket bodice of striped toe, with bands of grey silk. At the wrist, fine folds of silk form a simple and pretty cuff. Pearl buttons.

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