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Mr. URBAN,

August 15.

Med to the publick as the most

ANY plans have been submit

eligible for evincing the national feel-
ing of admiration towards our brave
and gallant defenders; but I do not
recollect having heard of any propo-
sition that the Waterloo-Bridge should
commemorate the Heroes who de-
serve our highest eulogies. This
beautiful bridge would be a mag-
nificent testimony of our grateful
admiration, if each arch supported
the Statue of a British Officer, Navy
and Army alternately, and the pe-
destals recorded their individual at-
chievements. The fund could well
be raised by a tax on passports; for,
however unpatriotic those persons
are who spoil their country at the
time of her distress to enrich stran-
gers, and but lately enemies, yet I
hope they will still sufficiently feel as
Britons, to glory in the talents and
gallantry of their intrepid country-
men, and not grudge five guineas as a
parting tribute to the Nation in which
they once held an interest, and to
whose Heroes they are indebted that
they can travel in peace from one
end of Europe to the other. The
Antients so proportioned their sta-
tues as to appear of the natural
height of the person to whom it was
erected, to a spectator on the ground.
The following table will give the ya-
rious proportions at different alti-
tudes, supposing the natural height
of the person 5 feet 10 inches:
Height of Column. Height of Statue.

Feet.

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Feet. Inches.
..8 2,16
.8 0,12
.7 9,48
.7 7,20
.7 4,80
.7 2,52
7 0,72
.6 10,92
9,12
.6 7,56
6 6,12

6 4,48

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for

To mitigate to a few individuals the distress of the present moment, it would be charitable to employ the Iron Founderies in casting a Pillar of Iron, consisting of several pieces 3 inches thick, and dove-tailed together with flanches in the inside, and erect it on the site of the Obelisk in St. George's-fields, and on the top place a Statue of Lord Nelson, facing the S. E. which is the direction of Aboukir. Opposite, on the other side of the bridge, where, I understand, an opening is to be made, I would raise a similar Pillar, surmounted by the Statue of the Duke of Wellington with his face towards Waterloo laurels gained by the Sword should be perpetuated in Iron. Now I am on this subject, I cannot refrain expressing my regret that no monument, nor any public honour, has ever been paid to the memory of the celebrated Captain Cook. Sir Hugh Palliser, Cook's early patron on the quarter-deck, with generous friendship raised a monument to his memory at Vatch in Buckinghamshire; and the Royal Society struck a medal, with the impression of the Navigator's head, as a mark of their esteem. Few men have deserved better of their country than Captain James Cook: his skill as a seaman, his science in navigation, and his perseverance, all entitle him to praise ; but these are comparative trifles when we look on him as the humane preserver of thousands, the indefatigable and enlightened promoter of a system which insures health and comfort to the mariner. To erect a monument to him would do credit to those who have the power; and to defray the charge out of the Droits of the Admiralty would be a double tribute of respect, as grateful to the Countrymen of Captain Cook as honourable to the Government. A COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.

GENT. MAG. September, 1816.

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vehicle some little distance before it enters the towns, and walking through them, as no notice is taken of footpassengers.

We stopped our carriage at Huitmille, but had not time to examine the interior of the Church. In this churchyard were interred the remains of Pilatre du Rozier and his friend, who were dashed in pieces by falling from a balloon in this neighbourhood: there is a monument erected to their memory, having a globe or balloon on its summit. We then proceeded on our return; and, as it was marketday at Boulogne, we met on the road a great number of persons proceeding thither; some on foot, on horses, and in different kinds of carriages, and not a few mounted on asses, generally two on each: the women riding reverse-wise on one animal. And, as characteristic of the Nation, not unfrequently five or six lubberly fellows riding in a cart, and a female trudging along, driving the horses for them! Indeed, the female part of the lower classes of the community appear to have the honour conferred on them, of performing the greatest part of the manual labour: as you will see them in the country, carrying out manure on hand-barrows, and spreading it on the land; at plough, harrow, working the gardens, &c. ; and in the towns, carrying heavy burthens; towing the vessels out of the barbours; serving in shops of every description; and doing the heaviest drudgery of all kinds. Scores of them at a time are to be seen, of all ages, without shoes or stockings, and only a short petticoat, which scarcely preserves decency; returning from fishing, heavily laden: while the men may be observed dandling an infant, or lounging away their time in the most perfect indolence!

At Marquise we took some refreshment; and that little place looked more French than any we saw; for it did not appear that there was a single person who could speak a word of English: but at the Inn they were very civil and obliging. At the Church we met the Cure, who is a very respectable pious-looking old gentleman, and who was exceedingly polite to us. At Buisson, nine miles from Calais, is the Poste Royale, and from the extent of the buildings the establishment appears respectable.

one.

About three miles from hence, on the right of the road, is a ruinated tower and church; the most like one of the Kentish plain churches I ever saw. Arrived at Calais at half-past Mr. and Miss R. Mr. V. and B. dined with me at the Brussels' Hotel, and we spent the evening very comfortably. The next morning took a sketch of the exterior, and a description of the interior, of the Church. Dined with B. at the Hotel St. Louis, Monsieur St. Louis Bruselle, Rue de Soleil, a very comfortable house, and most civil people. In the evening we went to the Bass-ville, spent an hour or two pleasantly, and visited the Church, which will be described hereafter.

Calais, for a French town, is neat and well-built; its form is an irregu lar circle, and about half a mile in diameter, and very thickly peopled: upwards of 14,000 souls. It is encompassed on the land side by three old walls and deep ditches; but its chief strength consists in the practicability of inundating the surrounding country for a very great distance. There is also a fishing-town without its principal wall, enclosed by another wall, and crowded by fishermen and their families to an excess: this is situated next the harbour. Exclusive of this, there is also le Bassville, situated half a mile to the S. E. of the principal town: it is a considerable village, seated on each side of the canal leading to St. Omer's, and has many pleasant gardens and walks. The Church is situated near the bottom of the village, opposite the bridge it is an antient structure, apparently of English origin; and consists of a nave and South aile, with large pillars and Saxou arches; the

windows are of the Pointed architecture: the chancel or choir is of the same height as the nave. There is a fine high altar, with a good painting; subject, Christ raising the damsel, "Tabitha cumi." Good statues on the sides, of St. Peter and St. Hilary: there are also several decent pictures surrounding the walls. The Chapel de la Verge has a good painting of the Presentation of the Infant. There are fine statues of St. Isaac and St. Arnout. The windows are of plain glass, well-glazed in diversified forms corresponding to Pointed architecture. There is not a single

piece of painted glass in any of the churches I saw; and from the present glazing being very antient, it is more than probable there never was any. The steeple is vaulted with stone, and the pulpit rich. The whole structure is of excellent antique brickwork, laid with the English bond. The steeple is at present without a roof, the lead and timbers being taken off during the Revolution. At the North side of the tower, in the church-yard, is a very large and wellcarved crucifix.

Though your Readers versed in English history need not be told, perhaps it will be information to many, to say, that immediately after the battle of Cressy in 1347, Edward III. invested Calais on the 8th September, and it surrendered to him on the 4th of August following: when he turned out all the inhabitants, and peopled it with English. When the Town capitulated, Edward granted life to both soldiers and inhabitants, excepting six of the principal burghers, intending to sacrifice them to his vengeance; leaving the inhabitants to choose the victims. The greatest consternation prevailed in the town, not knowing whom to choose; when Eustace de St. Pierre, a principal inhabitant, offered himself to be one of the six and five more soon followed his patriotic example. These six heroes went out to the Conqueror in their shirts, bare-footed, and with halters around their necks; and delivered to him the keys of the town: Edward, determined on their execution, was not to be appeased, even by the intercession of the Prince of Wales, commonly called the Black Prince, who had behaved so heroical ly; but was at last overcome by the tears and entreaties of his Queen; who, having obtained their pardon, clothed and feasted them, and, giving them money, sent them back into the town.-Calais continued in possession of the English until 1558, when it was so neglected, under the imbecile though bloody reign of Mary, that it was taken by the Duke of Guise, after seven days' siege, on the 8th of January, after being in the possession of the English 210 years!

Returning from Bass-ville, we visited the strangers' or heretics' burying-ground, which is situated without thewalls of the town; and sought in vain

for the grave of the famed Lady Hamilton, who was there buried by a subscription made in the town: her ashes now mingle indiscriminately with those of the vulgar dead, without the slightest memorial of where they rest. Alas! how fleeting are the honours of this passing world! The corpses are interred without any religious ceremony; except some Protestant friend can be found to read the burial service; which is permitted, but it must be in the presence of a gendarmes, who is ordered to attend every such funeral. It does not appear, as with us, that a person secures a certain portion of the burying-ground for himself and family; but the corpses are buried side by side indiscriminately, in a row, until that row is full, and then another is commenced. There are some few memorials, chiefly on wooden crosses, and here and there a flat marble stone. The burying-ground is merely an open field, by the roadside, subject to the ravages of man

and beast.

The Grande Place, or market-place of Calais, is a large handsome square, well-paved; nearly 400 feet long and 350 broad. On the South side are situate the Garde du corps, and the Maison-ville; the former is a plain structure with semicircular arches, and a very high tower for a watchhouse, or observatory: from its summit is a fine prospect of the town, the sea, and surrounding country. Adjoining the Maison-ville, is a large square tower, very antient, of the Pointed architecture; the West and South sides of which were originally enriched with a great many statues; but which are now all gone, their niches only remaining in a very dilapidated state. From the top of the original tower, to the height of about fifty feet, arises an octagon tower of three stages, of the fanciful order combining the Pointed and Grecian architecture, in which is the clock and the chimes; the bells banging exposed in the openings. The streets in Calais are generally at right angles, and pretty well paved; and in the reign of the present Mayor, kept remarkably clean; though, in consequence, the ramparts and environs are dirty enough. The Mayor has now issued his ordinance that every proprietor shall immediately pave the street opposite his premises, after the

manner

manner of the London pavement, with flagged foot-paths on each side. The prospect from the ramparts is good, and the walk fine, but for the nuisance above alluded to.

Inspected the Church, which is built of stone, and is a fine structure, consisting of a nave and N. and S. ailes, with alternate octangular and circular pillars, with Pointed arches. N. and S. transepts; tower in the centre, beautifully groined with stone. Choir and side ailes, with Pointed arches; clerestory windows throughout, with semicircular heads. Chapel of the Virgin Mary at the East end, circular, and of very fine Corinthian architecture, much enriched. Beautiful altar, with fine statue of the Virgin and Child, surrounded by a large glory, and decked out with jewels and flowers. This has been erected within a few years, as the former chapel, which was of similar construction, was destroyed during the Revolution. The whole Church was doomed to destruction; and now would have been no more, had it not been considered that a great part of the town was supplied with water from its roof: without it the inhabitants would have been greatly distressed; as they have no water which can be used, but what is caught from the roofs of their buildings, and which is preserved in wells at each of the houses. Should their supply fail,

there is an amazing large reservoir at the North side of the Church, to secure the water which comes from it, which is preserved as a last resource *. There are several other fine altars in the Church, particularly those of St. James and St. Roch: altar of the Holy Trinity, very fine: Chapel and altar of St. Peter; fine painting, date 1630. In the transepts many antient paintings on wood. In the side ailes of the choir, are some fine altars: that of St. Christopher; fine picture of Christ crowned with thorns, date 1718. Altar of St. Joseph, small but neat. Ditto of St. Ann. Altar of St. Maclow, two good statues; one of the Saint, the other of St. Michael. Chapel of St. Sacrement, South side of the South aile of choir, very fine rich structure; fine Ionic altar, and beautiful picture in the centre, and good statues of Faith and Hope. In the South aile of the nave is a large altar of the Sepulchre, represented by a cave, in which stands an alabaster tomb open, with a well-carved figure of the Redeemer as dead, in white marble; with statues surrounding the back and ends, nearly as large as life, of Joseph and Mary, and four of the disciples, weeping around: pretty well carved, but tawdrily painted. Before this altar, during grand mass, are some hundreds of common tallow candles burning, which the devotees pur

Since writing the above, I observe in vol. LXXXIV. p. 433, you have given an Engraving of this Church, taken from the N. E. forty years since. On comparing it with a Drawing taken by myself, it appears that the Church must have undergone great and essential alterations, if that Drawing was then correct. Mr. Groombridge observes, "Mr. Topping made a Drawing of the great Church there; whilst I, anxious lest he might be interrupted, was on the look-out;" that it was made under such a degree of trepidation as might prevent accuracy. Indeed the North side of the Church is so confined, and so blocked up with buildings, that it is not possible to obtain a sight of a great part of it: particularly that side of the nave is wholly obstructed by the immense reservoir referred to in the description so that I am ready to conclude, the sketch most probably was made from the ramparts, which will account for the small elevation of the tower; and that the minuter parts were filled in from memory, or by partial sketches.

My View was not taken under any such circumstances: from my station, I had a near sight of the whole and I had also obtained permission to make Drawings, and a Commissaire de la Police to attend me; who inspected my sketch, and allowed it to be accurate: so that I was perfectly at my ease. Though forty years have elapsed since Mr. Topping's Drawing was made, I am eertain the windows have not been altered: therefore never could then be as given by Mr. T.; the lower ones certainly are pointed, but the mullions and tracery very different: all the upper, or clerestory windows are circular-headed, and never had mullions, as are the windows in the Virgin Mary's Chapel: and instead of the Pointed sashes of two lights, as they appear in the tower, they are merely long Pointed openings with louvre boards, as is usual in steeples. The finishings to the walls are totally dissimilar.

chase.

chase of old women, who sell them in the church during divine service. They are lighted and stuck up, I fear, with the superstitious idea that, as the candle diminishes, so the sins of the offerer are forgiven, through the intercession of the Saint before whose altar they are placed! Thank God for superior light and knowledge of the Gospel in Britain! During every public service at the church, a collection is made for the relief of the distressed, by one of the inferior officers of the church, walking with a plate in his hand throughout the congregation and the gift of a franc "for poor sick man" will produce a low bow indeed *. Near the West end of the nave, at the opposite sides, are two very large fine statues of St. Anthony and St. Francis. Over the entrance of the nave at the West end, is an exceedingly large fine-toned organ. The church, from its structure and appearance, I have no doubt, was erected whilst Calais was in the possession of the English, i. e. in the 14th century: as was the castle of St. Risban, Bass-ville Church, and many other of the public buildings, not excepting some of the present houses, and most of the defences of the town.

Having spent near a week in France, I was preparing to return, and probably with a better opinion of the morals and regularity of the people than I should have done had it been at any other season of the year. It being Paschal week, the theatres were shut, and no sports or pastimes allowed: so that the manners of the people better accorded with the more sober ideas of an Englishman; especially on the Sabbath day. For had that been kept in the usual manner-their theatres open, their Vauxhalls and pleasure gardens crowded with the lowest and most debauched of the people, let loose to every scene of folly and licentiousness upon that holy day, I should have detested the name of French

men, and wished myself out of their polluted country +. But, under the existing restriction, the conduct of the people was decent, and the Church well attended at all the services; but principally by women and children, as very few men were to be seen among them: I verily believe not more than one in fifty, except those who were officially present. Indeed, it appeared to me, that the men were so habitually indolent, that they would neither work for the bread that perisheth, any more than they would for "that which endureth to everlasting life." One thing I must commend their attention to their scholars, of which there are very great numbers; enforcing their attendance on divine worship, under the care of their different masters, who are numerous, and all habited alike, in a decent black cloak or gown, and a band. On Easter-day, at high mass, the whole of the North aile of the nave of the church was closely filled with school-boys; and on the Thursday following, there was a distinct service performed for them: they were then marshaled, in number near 2000, in as regular order as soldiers, throughout the church, one pace apart ;-it was a most pleasing sight, to see so many children kneeling before their God: and I only regretted that the channel was not more pure, from which they were assembled to drink the waters of life. But, corrupted by superstition as it there lamentably is, it is better than none; for it must at least impress on their infant minds, the being of a God, and the necessity of paying adoration to Him: and, by thus inforcing on the rising generation the necessity of religion, will, I trust, greatly contribute to banish from this miserably afflicted country those infidel principles which still unfortunately have here too many abettors.

Intending to take my departure the following morning, I applied for my

* The livre is now more generally denominated a franc, of the value of ten pence. At this time, April 17, 1816, the exchange is in favour of the English Bank note; as a one pound one would fetch 24 francs, 4 sous; while the guinea would produce only 24 francs, 18 sous! Silver was more depreciated, as the English shilling would pass for only one franc.

+ To judge of the company who assemble at their Vauxhalls, it need only be observed, that the admission-fee is seven sous; for which a bottle of beer is included, besides their abominable pastimes, which, I understand, mark their frivolity and irreligion with a vengeance.

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