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mountain, my fellow-passenger to England, the elder Mr. Thomas, precipitated into the valley beneath a large portion of rock, which he detached by pushing against it. This rugged scenery, from its contrast with that through which we had so lately passed, increased greatly the interest of this day's journey, without making any difference in the smoothness of the road, over which our horses conveyed us at the uniform speed of ten miles the hour. By winding along the side of the mountain, curving and recurving, with scarce a hundred yards of straight road in any place, its builders have been able to keep it almost on a perfect level, though often at a great expense for its security, arising from the necessity of laying the foundation of its wall far down almost precipitous declivities on the side next the narrow valley beneath. In the midst of this immense range, we passed Onwig lake, a beautiful little trout-water, about a mile long and half as wide."

As this was at night, Dr. Milnor little realized the grandeur of the scene by day; the awfully shaggy cliff, which at one moment beetles above the traveller's head as he rides along the shore of that lovely water, and the suddenly frightful chasm which, at the next, yawns beneath the roadside; while the outlet of the little lake leaps, from under the bridge that crosses it, into lower air, and reaching at last the bottom of the gulf, sends its waters away in a fine, silvery thread, distant and noiseless, through the narrow, green meadow-vale hundreds of feet below.

"After leaving the mountains, the country for several miles is sterile, but afterwards gradually improves, until several fine country-seats of gentlemen are seen, one of which has a park enclosed by a wall of stone masonry, ten feet high, and, taking its four sides, seven miles in extent.

"The last town of any importance that we passed, was Bangor, in Carnarvonshire, situated between two high ridges of rock at the head of Beaumaris bay. It appeared to be principally one long street. We stopped for a few minutes at a large hotel, much frequented by company, who are attracted by the striking character of the adjacent scenery. This town is the residence of a bishop, who has a palace here, and a cathedral, of the latter of which I had, as I passed it, a moonlight view.

"On leaving Bangor, one of the most curious objects is the

chain-bridge across the Menai strait, an arm of the sea, that separates the Isle of Anglesea from Wales, and adds much to the beauty of Bangor. This bridge is 30 feet wide, 560 feet long, and 100 feet above high water. As you approach, its appearance is very fanciful and light, and you can scarcely realize that it is a structure of sufficient solidity to admit the passage over it of vehicles so heavy as that on which I was mounted. Its great height above the water, also, is sufficient to inspire a momentary apprehension of danger; but when you are once upon it, this entirely vanishes, from the evident strength of its supports, and the security against accidents of the defences on its sides. My moonlight view of this beautiful object, and of the scenery visible from it, probably presented them in a more interesting aspect than they would have borne, had I seen them by the light of day.

"I have so extended my note of this day's gratifying, though long and fatiguing ride, that I will mention none of the objects of remark between Bangor and Holyhead, except the lighthouse of the latter, alternately seen and hidden for several miles before reaching it, as our motion changed the apparent position of intervening hills.

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Holyhead is on a small island at the northwest point of Anglesea, and is considered the best point of embarkation for Dublin, the distance across the channel being only twenty leagues. We arrived a quarter past one o'clock A. M., having travelled, since eight the previous morning, 151 miles, with only one meal on the road.

"Though I felt little or no fatigue during my ride, yet I found myself sufficiently weary, at its termination, to solicit a berth immediately on going aboard the packet, which I took, and in a few minutes fell into a profound sleep. I did not awake till aroused by the captain, with the information that we had arrived at our destination; not Dublin, indeed, but nine miles below the city, where the packet stops. During the night there had been a severe storm, and our vessel had encountered an exceedingly rough sea-of all which I had been entirely unconscious.

"In consequence of my late sleep, all the seats in and on the mail-coach were occupied before I was ready for the start. I

was, therefore, obliged to put up with one of those elegant vehicles called a 'jaunting-car,' with a miserable-looking horse and driver, and went forward at a pace-which, for want of a whip, poor Patrick was unable to quicken-of about four miles the hour."

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Dr. Milnor's visit to Ireland was so short, and his notes so few, that extracts from the latter would be of little interest to the reader. We give, however, a single incident and a single paragraph. At Dublin, he unexpectedly met his interesting fellow-passenger across the Atlantic, Captain O'Connor, who was of great service in introducing him to valuable acquaintance, and in pointing out to him interesting objects in that beautiful city. From Dublin to Belfast, his ride was of the most unpleasant kind. Yesterday," he says, "being a fine day, and hoping for a continuance of fair weather, I took an outside seat. This I had reason, soon after our departure, to regret. When the coach started, at half past six, the morning was lowering, and we had not proceeded far before it began to rain; and in a little while we were driving through a most furious tempest. Unfortunately, too, I had the windward seat, and it seemed, at times, as if my umbrella would be torn into shreds. Besides, the rain soon penetrated through, so that it afforded but little protection, while those of other passengers poured their drippings upon me, and in a short time wet me to the skin. When we arrived at Drogheda, our breakfasting-place, I had a violent ague, which disqualified me not only for taking my breakfast, but also for changing my clothes. I would have stopped, but the inn was a shabby one, and crowded to overflowing by people attending the election. I swallowed, however, some hot tea; and, in consequence of the vacation of an inside seat, rode the rest of this stormy day, upwards of one hundred miles, to Belfast, under shelter, but in my wet clothes. My landlord at Belfast was very kind. A warm fire, a comfortable supper, a hot bath for my feet, and a good bed, procured for me a delightful night's rest; and I awoke in the morning with a heart grateful to God for my preservation from the anticipated bad effects of such an unusual exposure to cold."

SECTION X.

Ar twelve o'clock, Friday, August 6, Dr. Milnor was in the steamer Fingal, for Glasgow, where, after a tranquil passage, he arrived the next morning at four, and remained till Tuesday afternoon, Aug. 10; making himself acquainted with the principal religious and benevolent institutions of that beautiful and flourishing mistress of the Clyde, and with several worthy families, to whom he had letters. He paid particular attention to the tract operations of the city, and to the institution for the education of the deaf and dumb. Speaking of the religious operations of Glasgow, he says,

"The building called 'The Religious Institution,' is the property of all the societies bearing that character in the city; no less than twenty-five holding their meetings within the commodious building, which they own. They have a secretary of the institution, with a clerk to assist him; and he issues all the notices for the meetings of the several societies, or of their committees. Each society has also its own secretary, to record its proceedings; but this united arrangement saves the proper officers of the societies considerable mechanical labor." [Why is not the plan of such an institution worthy of adoption in all our large cities?]

In reference to the general condition of the country, he remarks, "In one particular, I see a great difference between Scotland and either England or Ireland, and I may add France. It relates to the practice of mendicity. When I left the steamer this morning, I was assailed by no beggars; and I have traversed the streets of Glasgow all day without a single application. The appearance of the lower orders here, with few exceptions, is much more decent than in any large town I have seen on this side of the Atlantic. Yet I was astonished to learn, that respectable as is the appearance of the town, so far as I have seen it, and decent as is that of its inhabitants, there is, in fact, a great deal of poverty; and the reduction of the means of living has had a very deleterious effect upon the poorer classes, in point of morals and religion. The population of Glasgow, [this was

in 1830,] approaches 200,000. Mr. Heugh, a clergyman of credit, told me that the church accommodation afforded 75,000 sittings; but that of these not more than 35,000 were actually occupied."

It would be wrong to infer, from this mode of calculation, that the means of grace in Glasgow reached no more than 35,000 of its inhabitants; yet, with even this caution, the testimony of the above paragraph to that great truth in political economy, that the want of comfortable bodily sustenance among the lower orders is peculiarly injurious to good morals, and therefore to good government, is sufficiently striking.

"SUNDAY, Aug. 8.-I desire," writes Dr. Milnor, "gratefully to acknowledge the goodness of God in my preservation to see another sacred day of rest. May my heart be deeply impressed with a sense of the unmerited mercies which I am daily receiving at his hands. As the only return which I can make, and make it I cannot without thy aid, grant to me, Lord, I beseech thee, the spirit to think and do always such things as be rightful; that I, who cannot do any thing that is good without thee, may by thee be enabled to live according to thy will, through Jesus Christ, our Lord. Amen."

This morning he attended worship at St. Mary's chapel, of which the Rev. Mr. Almond was minister. St. Mary's, he says, "is one of the two Episcopal chapels in Glasgow-our brethren being dissenters in Scotland, are not privileged to call their houses of worship churches. Mr. Almond is a moderate, evangelical churchman: the minister of the other chapel is a highchurchman. Mr. Almond being absent in consequence of a family bereavement, a young clergyman in deacon's orders supplied his place. His sermon excited a very favorable opinion of the piety and doctrinal views of the preacher, but not a very high one of his talents. It is to me astonishing, that the young clergy of our church should be so regardless of delivery. The effect of all that was valuable in this sermon was, in great measure, lost, by the close and monotonous manner in which it was read: not a hand raised; scarcely a look towards the congregation from beginning to end, and not even such a regard to emphasis and cadence as at all times to convey clearly the meaning

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