of the sea, in the open parts, is tolerably uniform, and the depth may be averaged at from thirty-five to forty fathoms, yet it is said to be more variable on the coast of Jersey than round either of the other Islands.

It is high water at Jersey about six o'clock, at every new and full moon: but as the flood commences by rushing full against the rocks on the northern shore, it is high water half an hour earlier on that and on the western side, than on the southern and eastern shores.

Though there is good anchorage at Boulay bay, St. Aubin's bay, and at other inlets round the coast, yet not one of them is land-locked; and the two ports of St. Helier, and St. Aubin, are both dry at low water. To remedy this last defect, it has been suggested, that a safe and commodious harbour might be constructed at Boulay bay, as there is always a considerable depth of water there; but this suggestion has not been acted on, and probably never will.*

The following remarks in reference to the tides, are extracted from a paper published by the Geological Society, presented by Dr. Macculloch:-" The great wave which enters from the Atlantic, striking directly against the projecting coast of Normandy, first fills the bay, and then continues its course along the Islands, and round la Hogue, up the English channel; where its passage being narrowed and diverted by the land, it forms those currents, of which the rapidity is such, as in some places, it is said to amount to six miles an hour."

* Although there is a good depth of water at all times in Boulay bay, as a harbour for mercantile shipping it would be useless, or nearly so, on account of the great acclivity of the land from the sea, which would increase the difficulty and expence of cartage to St. Helier, the grand emporium of the Island. It is better adapted as an anchoring ground for ships of war, during a state of hostility.

"Neither from my own observations, nor from the traditions of the inhabitants, nor from antient record, have I been able to trace much alteration in the level of the sea, or any considerable change in the positions of the harbours, or the depths of the soundings. Indeed, the shores in general being high, small changes of level are more likely to escape notice; and the rocks being of a firm constitution, and belonging to a country without rivers, and almost without ice, escape some of the ordinary causes of decay."-Geological Transactions, vol. 1.

The highways were formerly of different widths,and were under strict regulations in this respect, when they were originally formed. They are thus described in a MS. in the British Museum:*. "There are in Jerseye three kindes of wayes: Le Chemin de Roy, the king's highway, which is to be of the breadth of twelve feet, besides four feet on eache side by the hedge; in all sixteene foot.† Le Chemin de huite pieds, of eight foot in the midle, and foure foot on both sides, in all twelve foot; and lastly, Le Chemin de quatre pieds, or four foot way, for footmen or carriadgrs (carriers) on horseback."

* This is a small 4to. volume very neatly written, elegantly bound, and richly ornamented: on the first leaf is a note, by which it appears to have belonged to James the Second; it was written during the reign of the second Charles.

This discrepancy in the measurement is explained, by observing that the foot path ran sometimes on one side of the same road, and sometimes on the other; so that the width did not exceed sixteen feet.

There were also other roads, called Perquages, extending from each church to the sea. Any person who had committed a crime, and taken refuge in the church, as a sanctuary, and remained there nine days, and afterwards swore to leave the island and never to return was allowed the privilege of these Perquages to depart, but if deviating from them, was liable to be seized, and suffer the penalty of the law: this privilege was abolished at the reformation, and the roads given to Sir Edward Carteret, and by him disposed of to those who had lands adjoining. (See Antiquities.)

These were the only roads of which the Islands could boast, until the new military roads were made by General Don; and they were generally, indeed nearly all, in a miserable condition, as may still be seen by those that remain; but many of these roads have been widened and formed after the manner of those in England, and are almost in every respect equal to them. They have proved a great advantage to the Island, which is now acknowledged by the inhabitants, although a violent opposition was at first raised against the plan-so great indeed that nothing but the most resolute perseverance on the part of the governor could have succeeded in removing it; but so satisfied was he of the ultimate success and advantage of his plan, that he declared, "I will do them good in spite of themselves, and they will hereafter experience and acknowledge it :" this has been fully verified in both respects.

Though, in time of war, the chief defence of Jersey must, necessarily, be confided to the regular troops, yet the Island force is considerable and well disciplined.

The militia comprises six regiments or battalions of infantry, amounting to more than 2500 men. To each corps is attached four field pieces, and a company of artillery: these form a body of between 600 and 700 men, and are when exercised formed into a battalion. All the island troops are armed, and clothed in proper uniforms, by government, but do not receive pay. They are frequently drilled; and during war mount guard every night, at different stations round the Island.

Every inhabitant, from the age of nineteen to sixtyfive, is by law obliged to bear arms, either as an officer or a private; and all boys, from the age of sixteen to eighteen, are exercised, weekly, during the summer months. This

juvenile corps is upwards of a thousand strong. There are likewise a few troopers attached to each regiment, whose duty is to serve as orderly men and guides: the artillery also is mounted.

The militia staff consists of inspectors and assistant inspectors; and the whole island force is under strict regulations: though the governor, or lieutenant governor, appoints the officers, and has military command over them, yet all complaints against individuals are judged and punished by the royal court.*

The regular troops in time of war, generally amount to about 7000 men: the peace establishment does not exceed 300.

The principal fortifications are, Fort Regent, Elizabeth castle, that of Mont Orgueil, Fort Henry, La Rocco, St. Aubin's tower, Seymour tower, with the tower at Noirmont point, and that at Ich-ho. Besides these, there is a chain of martello towers, redoubts, and batteries, in every maritime part of the Island, where defences are requisite. As an additional security, Jersey and Guernsey together form a station for ships of war. There are, likewise, in Jersey four signal posts, on different elevated parts, which during war are increased, so that a telegraphic communication is established round the Island.

There are barracks for the regular troops in different parts of the Island: a very handsome and extensive range of buildings was erected, at the close of the last war, in St. Peter's parish.

* The militia is now called the "Royal Jersey Militia:" it obtained that distinction by an ordinance of his late Majesty, William the Fourth, in 1831, on the fiftieth anniversary of its gallant resistance, under Major Pierson, to the French invasion of the Island, January 6, 1791. (See General History.)

64

CHAPTER III.

Division, Enclosures, Population, Language,
Dress, and Peculiar Customs.

THE Island is divided into twelve parishes; these are Trinity, St. John's, and St. Mary's, on the north; St. Ouen's, St. Peter's, and St. Brelade's, on the west; St. Lawrence's, St. Helier's, and St. Saviour's, on the south; St. Clement's, Grouville, and St. Martin's, on the east. These, with the exception of the parish of St. Ouen, are again divided into Vintaines.* The divisions in that parish are called Cuillettes. All present a large coast to the sea, except St. Saviour's, and even this has one small point of contact.

As the law of inheritance frequently causes a division of property among the children, on the death of the proprietor, the land is necessarily divided into small estates; this of course occasions corresponding enclosures. These circumscribed portions are surrounded by banks of several feet in height and thickness. Many are even faced with stone, so as to have the appearance of ramparts; and most

*This sub-division is the same as in England into hundreds, and the name in both cases explains itself. As in England the division was into hundreds, or a space occupied by a hundred houses, so in Jersey by Vintaines," or where there were twenty houses.

This was originally a private arrangement made by the Seigneur for his own convenience, and who at that time probably possessed the whole parish: he divided it into two parts, for the purpose of making the collections more easily; hence the term "Cuillettes" or gatherings.