A

Many an anxious eye was turned towards her; but she seemed buoyant and easy, while the Kru-boys on board of her plied vigorously at their paddles. few minutes more brought her into smooth water, and then all fears for her safety vanished. We passed Palm Point about half-past two, and shortly afterwards anchored in six fathom water, under Alburkah Island, in a spot fully exposed to the influences of the sea-breeze, which at that season blows night and day.

July 12.

The engine requiring some repairs, it was determined to effect them here before proceeding further. Mr. May and I went in the gig to examine the channel to the westward of Alburkah Island, and found deep water-from five to six fathoms-close along the west shore. This occupied us until dark, after which we re-examined our instruments, got the barometers freely suspended, compared them, and saw everything in readiness for future operations. The ship swung to the ebb at half-past eight, and in another hour the current was running past like a mill-sluice, being at the rate of five knots and a half. Next day Mr. May and I landed at Baracoon Point to get some bearings. Some natives appeared at a distance, but were very timid, and on our approaching towards them went and hid in the bush. I collected a few botanical and zoological specimens ; among the latter a fine bat, a species of Epomophorus. We had intended visiting Akássa, from which we were distant about four miles, but were prevented by

D

heavy rain, which drove us on board. In the afternoon we pulled further up the western channel, carrying deep water all along close to the shore. We returned by Alburkah Island, or rather the Alburkah Islands, as this appears to be a group of swampy islets, intersected with creeks. Seeing a little village, we landed, but the inhabitants, alarmed, had completely evacuated the place, leaving it quite at our mercy. My boat's crew of Krúmen were rather desirous of exercising the privileges of conquerors, and of picking up some plunder, but this we at once checked. There was not much left for them, except some large heaps of palm-nuts, which lay in heaps, all in readiness for boiling for the oil. From a heap of bones which was looked on as dju-dju or sacred, I selected the skull of a Manatus,* in fair condition. Being now fairly in the river, we commenced giving, morning and evening, to all the Europeans on board, two-thirds of a glass of quinine wine, which contained about five grains of quinine, believing that this would act as a prophylactic or preventive, while exposed as every one must be while in the Delta-to the influence of malaria. The following morning a canoe came alongside, in which were two Abó men. They did not give us much information, but told us that the inhabitants in this neighbourhood were afraid of us, as they thought we had come with warlike intentions. About nine o'clock Mr. May and I started off to

Most probably Manatus Senegalensis.

continue our examination of the western channel. Deep water, sometimes as much as from six to eight fathoms, was constantly found. We kept as nearly as possible in the course of the main stream, but branches and junctions were so frequent, as greatly to perplex us. The breadth of the creeks varied from 100 to 300 or 400 yards; and the direction was from N.W. to E.N.E. by compass.

Nothing could be more gloomy than these dreary streams, enclosed between dense lines of sombre mangroves, forty, fifty, or even sixty feet in height. The only thing left to our sight was a narrow strip of sky overhead. No dry land was visible, not a canoe nor a native was encountered, and the only sign of life was when here and there a solitary king-fisher, startled by such an unwonted appearance, fled lazily from its retreat, but ere a gun could be even pointed at it, again disappeared amid the dark-green foliage. We at length found ourselves in a creek running west and south-west, which we conjectured to be connected with the Sengána branch; but as the afternoon was far advanced, we were obliged to turn. One place so resembled another, that we had some difficulty in retracing our steps, but coming upon an opening leading due south, we entered it, believing that it would prove a shorter route. Its turnings and windings were innumerable, so that our boat's crew became first dissatisfied, and at last timid; but we persisted, though there was a fair prospect of our having to spend the night in these mosquito preserves. We came

to one very shallow spot, across which we had to wade and drag the boat; but after this we began to recognise some objects, and by dark we reached the ship, having been in the boat nine hours, and pulled over some five-and-twenty miles. We found to our great satisfaction that the repairs of the engine were completed, so preparations were made for an early start in the morning.

We were under steam by daylight, but at the entrance of Louis's Creek grounded, and there

July 15.

not being water enough here to allow us to enter, Mr. Richards went in the gig to look for another passage, and after a little trouble found one, by which he took us. This we named after him, "Richards's Creek;" it is rather longer and narrower than Louis's Creek, with which it is parallel. This passed, we were soon in the main river, and under Mr. Richards's pilotage, and with the leads constantly going, got on very fairly. In an ascent of this kind the pilot sits right in the bows, directing the man at the helm by his hand. One leadsman was stationed in the forechains, and another, the most important one, in the dingy, which was slung under the bowsprit. Mangroves were becoming scarce, palms increasing in number and in size, and though no huts were seen, still in recent clearances along the banks were little plantations of bananas and plantains. Every one was in high spirits at our progress, little dreaming that a sudden check was in store for us. About eleven o'clock a small islet appeared in mid-channel,

right ahead of us. The pilot wished to pass to the westward, but before the master could make up his mind which course to follow, the "Pleiad" was allowed to run right stem on. The mate ran to get a kedge carried out at once, but was ordered not to hurry himself, although we were still within the influence of the tides, and it was just about the top of high water. Some feeble and badly planned efforts were made to get off during the early part of the afternoon, but, as might have been anticipated, they were ineffectual. Mr. May and I went in the gig and measured by triangulation the breadth of the river, which does not exceed 200 yards. Next morning I expected that by daylight at the furthest, fresh exertions would be made to float, but the master did not make his appearance on deck till after seven. I asked him what he intended doing, and on being answered that he did not approve of working on Sunday, or, as he called it, Sabbath, remonstrated with him in strong terms. This roused him a little, and he gave some fresh orders. About ten o'clock, almost entirely by the energy and skill of the chief mate, we were once more afloat, but by the master's direction we dropped a little way down and anchored close to the bush, and in this unhealthy spot we remained until next morning. The islet on which we stuck, was, we found, "Sunday Island ;" very appropriately named. Immediately above it on the western side is a small creek, by which canoes come from Wári.

July 17.