In the environs of Ispahan lie whole fields laid out in planting, and abounding in the most luxuriant flowers; so that all the principal roads, by which travellers enter the city, seem actually to lead through the richest gardens. That by which our travellers entered, led through what is called the Four Gardens; and was more like an avenue through a gentleman's demesne than a public road. In width it was about twenty feet, and bordered on each side with rows of high poplar and plane trees, rising from among bushes of rose trees, and jes samine in full bloom. In all warm countries, it is an object to procure as much shade as possible, and, for this purpose, these roads are lined with high stone walls, inside the rows of trees; and these are built of such a thickness, as to admit of arched niches being made in them, three feet deep, in which seats are placed for the accommodation of foot passengers.

After passing through the four gardens, which are a mile in extent, they came to a bridge, over the river Zenderoud, which, though but a very inconsiderable stream, adds much to the beauty of the scene. Shortly after, they eptered the town, which presents to the eye of & stranger, so different an appearance from that which he naturally expects on reaching the capital of such a country, that scarcely could our travellers believe they were in the streets of Ispahan, long celebrated as one of the most

splendid cities of the East. But time and war have reduced it to a state of decay.

Ispahan was, formerly, and is still twentyfour miles in circumference; the streets are irregular, narrow and unpaved; each house, in consequence of being only one story high, covering a great deal of ground, which, in some measure, may account for the great extent of the city; but, were the ruins not included, it would measure less than six miles; and, there fore, it is only when viewed from such a distance, as, that the latter are not distinguished from the inhabited houses, that it has any ap. pearance of its former greatness, or can be said to justify the Persian proverb, that Ispahan is half the world. The walls of the palace are still standing, which, together with the gardens, were five miles round; but the traveller looks in vain for the rich decorations that once adorned them. in the centre of the ruin is now a market place, and numbers of shops have been erected within its walls.-Nor can there be a more striking proof of the decay into which the city of Ispahan has fallen, than that its population is reduced from 12,000 to 600 families.

As Captain Blisset was invested with a public mission to the King of Persia, every honour which could be paid to an Ambassador was rendered to him; a place was assigned him for his residence, to which he was immediately immediately

souducted. On his arrival, the whole party therefore alighted from their horses at an im. mense open hall, the roof of which was sup ported by twelve wooden pillars, inlaid with looking glasses, and its interior superbly orna mented with paintings and gilding. Here was spread on the ground a collation of fruit and sweet meats, piled up in China bowls, and ornamented with cotton and gold leaf; when every person was seated, and the usual cere mony of smoking and coffee had been performed, a breakfast of Persian dishes succeeded, and the whole was performed in the presence of the rabble who had accompanied the pro cession from the beginning. It was, indeed, a novel sight, and appeared to amuse them very much, to see the agony of the British seated on the ground in tight pantaloons, and their awkwardness in eating with their fingers. When the party broke up, a general scramble ensued for the remains of the eatables; and soon, not. withstanding the blows of those who were appointed to keep order, every thing was carried off.

It was now, however, that our travellers were to learn how very different is the liberty of the subject in Persia, from that which is enjoyed at home; for the house, in which they were lodged, belonged to a man, who at the Prince's command, had been obliged 10 resign it twelve years before, for the pure

pose of lodging those who came to Persia, in, a public character, and to look for a residence elsewhere; nor could Captain Blisset ever learn that he was to receive any compensation for the injury, In England and Ireland how different is it, said he to William; for, though the King himself would be the last man to invade another's property, yet, if he were to do so, the laws would give the subject redress, for, as the expression is, every man's house is bis castle. It was painful to Captain Blisset to be one of the innocent causes of such injustice; but he was assured, by his friend the Persian Ambassador, that his refusing the residence allotted to him, would only exasperate the Prince, and, so far from benefiting the individual, draw upon him, perhaps, some severer act of oppression.

Obliged, therefore, to submit, and, to satisfy his scruples, by conveying, privately, to the proprietor a sum equivalent to the rent, he, and his faithful William, set themselves to observe the manners of this people, which were, indeed, so different from those of Eu rope, that it is difficult to give a proper idea of them to any one who has never been in the East.

But they soon had occasion to remark that the Persians differ nearly as much from the Hindoos as from Europeans. Unlike the natives of India, (who will not unnecessarily put to death even the most noxious reptile, and

are so careful not to take away the life even of an insect, that some carry a broom to sweep the ground, before they sit down, and wear a cloth before the mouth to avoid inhaling them with the breath ;) these eat animal food, and excel in all kinds of hunting, and train up birds of prey, which attack lions, tigers, and leopards, and even dogs which run down their prey by the scent.

The noises which issued from the houses adjoining that occupied by Captain Blisset, were quite characteristic of Persian domestic life. Next door to him lived an old morose Persian, whose family shewed forcibly the evils of a custom, that is general throughout Persia, that of having more than one wife. These women were continually quarrelling, so that, instead of finding home a scene of cheerfulness, his time was chiefly occupied in making peace between them. On the other side, lived the wives and female slaves of another, who were always either sobbing aloud like children, or scolding, or indulging in the most noisy merriment. Accident once gave William a view into the yard, where he saw three women, surrounded by children, and smoking. They wore a large black silk handkerchief round their head, an upper garment, which descended as low as the middle, a pair of loose trow. sers, and green high-heeled slippers, and he afterwards was told that this is the domestic