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Note 14, page 44, col. 2.

Mine but for those, who, like Jean Jacques, delight.

ing, escaped observation. If I cannot supply the deficiency, I will not follow their example; and happy

<< J'aime beaucoup ce tournoiement, pourvu que je should I be, if by an intermixture of verse and prose, of sois en sûreté.-Les Confessions, 1. iv.

Note 15, page 44, col. 2.

--just where the Abbot fell,

Où il y a environ dix ans, que l'abbé de St Maurice, M. Cocatrix, a été précipité avec sa voiture, ses chevaux, sa cuisinière, et son cocher.- Descript. du Valais, p. 120. Note 16, page 45, col. 1.

Painted by Cagliari.
Commonly called Paul Veronese.

Note 17, page 45, col. 1.
➖➖quaffing gramolata.

A sherbet half-frozen.

Note 18, page 45, col. 2.
Like him who, in the days of Minstrelsy.
Petrarch, Epist. Rer. Sen. 1. v, ep. 3.

Note 19, page 45, col. 2.

Before the great Mastino.

prose illustrating the verse and verse embellishing the prose, I could furnish my countrymen on their travels with a pocket-companion.

Note 23, page 46, col. 2.

In this neglected mirror.

As this is the only instance, with which I am acquainted, of a Ghost in Italy since Brutus sat in his tent, I give it as I received it; though in the catastrophe I have been anticipated by a distinguished Writer of the present day.

It was first mentioned to me by a friend as we were crossing the Apennines together.

Note 24, page 47, col. 1.

She was walled up within the Castle-wall.
Murato was a technical word for this punishment in
Italy.

Note 25, page 47, col. 1.
Issuing forth.

An old huntsman of the family met her in the haze

Mastino de la Scala, the Lord of Verona. Cortusio, of the morning, and never went out again.

the ambassador and historian, saw him so surrounded. -L. 6.

This house had been always open to the unfortunate. In the days of Can Grande all were welcome; Poets, Philosophers, Artists, Warriors. Each had his apartment, each a separate table; and at the hour of dinner musicians and jesters went from room to room. Dante, as we learn from himself, found an asylum there.

Lo primo tuo rifugio, e'l primo ostello
Sarà la cortesia del gran Lombardo,
Che'n su la scala porta il santo uccelle.

Their tombs in the public street carry us back into the times of barbarous virtue; nor less so do those of the Carrara Princes at Padua, though less singular and striking in themselves. Francis Carrara, the Elder, used often to visit Petrarch in his small house at Arqua, and followed him on foot to his grave.

Note 20, page 46, col. 1.

And shall I sup where Juliet at the Masque. The old Palace of the Cappalletti, with its uncouth balcony and irregular windows, is still standing in a lane near the Market-place; and what Englishman can behold it with indifference?

When we enter Verona, we forget ourselves, and are almost inclined to say with Dante,

Vieni a veder Montecchi, e Cappelletti.

Note 21, page 46, col. 1.

Such questions hourly do I ask myself.

It has been observed that in Italy the memory sees more than the eye. Scarcely a stone is turned up that has not some historical association, ancient or modern; that may not be said to have gold under it.

Note 22, page 46, col. 1.

Twice hast thou lived already;

Twice shone among the nations of the world.

All our travellers, from Addison downward, have diligently explored the monuments of her former existence; while those of her latter have, comparatively speak

She is still known by the name of Madonna Bianca.
Note 26, page 47, col,.1.

Still glowing with the richest hues of art.
Several were painted by Giorgione and Titian; as, for
instance, those of the Fondaco de Tedeschi and the Ca'
Grimani.-See VASARI.

Note 27, page 47, col. 1.

--the tower of Ezzelin

Now an Observatory. On the wall there is a long Inscription: Piis carcerem adspergite lacrymis, etc. Ezzelino is seen by Dante in the river of blood. - Inferno, xii.

Note 28, page 47, col. 2.

A vagrant crew, and careless of to-morrow.

Douze personnes, tant acteurs qu'actrices, un souffleur, un machiniste, un garde du magasin, des enfans de tout âge, des chiens, des chats, des singes, des perroquets; c'étoit l'arche de Noé. - Ma prédilection pour les soubrettes m'arrèta sur Madame Baccherini.»>-GOL

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Note 30, page 47, col. 2.

That child of fun and frolic, Arlecchino.

A pleasant instance of his wit and agility was exhibited some years ago on the stage at Venice. exorable. It was to << The stutterer was in an agony; the word was ingested another and another, no purpose that Harlequin sugAt length, in a fit of despair, he pitched his head full in the dying man's stomach, and the word bolted out of his mouth to the most distant part of the house.»-See MOORE's View of Society in Italy.

Note 31, page 47, col. 2.

A vast Metropolis.

I love, says a late traveller, to contemplate, as

I float along, that multitude of palaces and churches, which are congregated and pressed as on a vast raft.» And who,» says another, can forget his walk through the Merceria, where the nightingales give you their melody from shop to shop, so that, shutting your eyes, you would think yourself in some forest-glade, when indeed you are all the while in the middle of the Who can forget his prospect from the great tower, which once, when gilt, and when the sun struck upon it, was to be descried by ships afar off; or his visit to St Mark's church, where you see nothing, tread on nothing, but what is precious; the floor all agate, jasper; the roof mosaic; the aisle hung with the ban

sea ?

ners of the subject cities; the front and its five domes affecting you as the work of some unknown people? Yet all this will presently pass away; the waters will close over it; and they, that come, row about in vain to determine exactly where it stood.»

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Marino Faliero dalla bella moglie: altri la gode ed egli la mantiene.

Locus Marini Faletri decapitati pro criminibus.

Note 42, page 49, col. 2.

Carmagnola.

. Il Conte, entrando in prigione, disse: Vedo bene chi o son morto, e trasse un gran sospiro. -SANUTO.

Note 43, page 49, col. 2.

And bore away to the Canal Orfano.

A deep channel behind the island of S. Giorgo Mag

The procuratorship of St Mark was the second dig-giore. nity in the Republic.

Note 35, page 49, col. 1.

The brass is gone, the porphyry remains.

They were placed in the floor as inemorials. The brass was engraven with the words addressed by the Pope to the emperor, Super Aspidem, etc.

Note 36, page 49, col. 1.

Of the proud Pontiff

Alexander III. He fled in disguise to Venice, and is said to have passed the first night on the steps of San Salvatore. The entrance is from the Merceria, near the foot of the Rialto; and it is thus recorded, under his escutcheon, in a small tablet at the door : Alexandro III. Pont. Max. pernoctanti.

Note 37, page 49, col. 1. ---resounding with their feet.

See Petrarch's description of them, and of the tournament. Rer. Senil. 1. 4, ep. 2.

Note 38, page 49, col. 1.

———some from merry England.

Note 44, page 50, col. 1.

Who were the Six we supp'd with yesternight?

An allusion to the Supper in Candide.—c. xxvi.

Note 45, page 50, col. 1.

Who answer'd me just now?.

See Schiller's Ghost-seer.-C. i.

Note 46, page 50, col. 1.

But who stands there, alone among them all?. See the history of Bragadino, the Alchymist, as related by Daru.-Hist. de Venise, c. 28.

A person yet more extraordinary is said to have appeared there in 1687.

<< Those, who have experienced the advantages which all strangers enjoy in that City, will not be surprised that one who went by the name of Signor Gualdi was admitted into the best company, though none knew who or what he was. He remained there some months; and three things were remarked concerning him-that he had a small but inestimable collection of pictures, which he readily showed to any body-that he spoke on every subject with such a mastery as astonished all who heard

<«< Recenti victoriâ exultantes,» says Petrarch; allud-him-and that he never wrote or received any letter,

ing, no doubt, to the favourable issue of the war in
France This festival began on the 4th of August,
1364.

Note 39, page 49, col. 1.
And lo, the madness of the Carnival.

never required any credit or used any bills of exchange, but paid for every thing in ready money, and lived respectably, though not splendidly.

«

This gentleman being one day at the coffee-house, a Venetian nobleman, who was an excellent judge of pictures, and who had heard of Signor Gualdi's collection, Among those the most followed, there was always a expressed a desire to see them; and his request was inmask in a magnificent habit, relating marvellous ad- stantly granted. After contemplating and admiring ventures and calling himself Messer Marco Millioni. them for some time, he happened to cast his eyes over Millioni was the name given by his fellow-citizens in the chamber-door, where hung a portrait of the Stranhis life-time to the great traveller, Marco Polo. I ger. The Venetian looked upon it, and then upon him. have seen him so described,» says Ramusio, «< in the re-This is your portrait, Sir,' said he to Signor Gualdi,

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hour? said I to the Gondolier. I cannot guess, Sir; but, if I am not mistaken, it is the lover's hour.»— Let us go home, I replied; and he turned the prow homeward, singing, as he rowed, the twenty-sixth strophe of the sixteenth canto of the Jerusalem De

The other made no answer but by a low bow. Yet
you look,' he continued, like a man of fifty; and I
know this picture to be of the hand of Titian, who has
been dead one hundred and thirty years. How is this
possible?' 'It is not easy,' said Signor Gualdi gravely,
'to know all things that are possible; but there is cer-livered.
tainly no crime in my being like a picture of Titian's.'
The Venetian perceived that he had given offence, and
took his leave.

«In the evening he could not forbear mentioning what had passed to some of his friends, who resolved to satisfy themselves the next day by seeing the picture. For this purpose they went to the coffee-house about the time that Signor Gualdi was accustomed to come there; and, not meeting with him, inquired at his lodgings, where they learned that he had set out an hour before for Vienna. This affair made a great stir at the time.»>

Note 47, page 50, col. 1.

All eye, all ear, no where and every where.

A Frenchman of high rank, who had been robbed at Venice, and had complained in conversation of the negligence of the Police, was on his way back to the Terra Firma, when his gondola stopped suddenly in the midst of the waves. He inquired the reason; and his gondoliers pointed to a boat with a red flag, that had just made them a signal. It arrived; and he was called on board. You are the Prince de Craon? Were you not robbed on Friday evening?-I was.-Of what?-Of five hundred ducats. And where were they? In a green purse.-Do you suspect any body?— I do, a servant.-Would you know him again?-Certainly.. The Interrogator with his foot turned aside an old cloak that lay there; and the Prince beheld his purse in the hand of a dead man. . Take it; and remember that none set their feet again in a country where they have presumed to doubt the wisdom of the government.»>

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Note 52, page 51, col. 1.

The young Bianca found her father's door. Bianca Capello. It had been shut by a baker's boy, as he passed by, at day-break; and in her despair she fled with her lover to Florence, where he fell by assassination. Her beauty, and her love-adventure as here related, her marriage afterwards with the Grand Duke, and that fatal banquet at which they were both poisoned by the Cardinal, his brother, have rendered her history The Capello Palace is on the Canalé di Canonico; and the postern-door, la porta di strada, is still on its hinges. It opens into one of those narrow alleys so numerous at Venice.

a romance.

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I am indebted for this thought to some unpublished very lately. travels by the author of Vathek.

Note 51, page 50, col. 2.

--and be sung,

As in the time when Venice was herself.

Goldoni, describing his excursion with the Passalacqua, has left us a lively picture of this class of

men.

We were no sooner in the middle of that great lagoon which encircles the City, than our discreet Gondolier drew the curtain behind us, and let us float at the will of the waves.-At length night came on, and we could not tell where we were. What is the

Note 59, page 52, col. 1.

And through the city in a stately barge.

Le quali con trionfo si conducessero sopra una piatta pe 'canali di Venezia con suoni e canti.»-SANUTO.

Note 60, page 52, col. 1.

---the Rialto.

An English abbreviation. Rialto is the name of the island from which the bridge is called; and the Venetians say il ponte di Rialto, as we say Westminsterbridge.

In that island is the exchange; and I have often

walked there as on classic ground. In the days of Antonio and Bassanio it was second to none. . I sottoportichi,» says Sansovino, writing in 1580, sono ogni giorno frequentati da i mercatanti Fiorentini, Genovesi, Milanesi, Spagnuoli, Turchi, e d'altre nationi diverse del mondo, i quali vi concorrono in tanta copia, che questa piazza è annoverata fra le prime dell' universo. It was there that the Christian held discourse with the Jew; and Shylock refers to it, when he says,

Signor Antonio, many a time and oft,

In the Rialto you have rated meAndiamo a Rialto»-« L'ora di Rialto-were on every tongue; and continue so to the present day, as we may conclude from the comedies of Goldoni, and particularly from his Mercanti.

There is a place adjoining, called Rialto Nuovo; and so called, according to Sansovino, «perche fu fabbricato dopo il vecchio..

Note 61, page 52, col. 1.

Twenty are sitting as in judgment there.

The Council of Ten and the Giunta, nel quale," says Sanuta, fu messer lo doge. The Giunta at the first examination consisted of ten Patricians, at the last of twenty.

Note 62, page 52, col. 2.

--that maid at once the fairest, noblest.

She was a Contarini; a name coeval with the Republic, and illustrated by eight Doges. On the occasion of their marriage the Bucentaur came out in its splendour; and a bridge of boats was thrown across the Canal Grandé for the Bridegroom and his retinue of three hundred horse. Sanuto dwells with pleasure on the costliness of the dresses and the magnificence of the processions by land and water. The tournaments in the Place of St Mark lasted three days, and were attended by thirty thousand people.

Note 63, page 53, col. 1.

I have transgressed, offended wilfully.

It was a high crime to solicit the intercession of any Foreign Prince.

Note 64, page 53, col. 2.

the Invisible Three

The State-Inquisitors. For an account of their Authority, see page 52.

Note 65, page 53, col. 2.

It found him on his knees before the altar,

He was at mass.-SANUTO.

Note 66, page 54, col. 1.

And in his ledger-book.

A remarkable instance, among others in the annals of Venice, that her princes were merchants.

Note 67, page 54, col. 1.

And from that hour have kindred spirits flock'd. I visited once more, says Alfieri, the tomb of our master in love, the divine Petrarch; and there, as at Ravenna, consecrated a day to meditation and verse.

Note 68, page 54, col. 1.

Its vineyards of such great and old renown. The Côte Rotie, the Hermitage, etc.

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I have built, among the Euganean hills, a small house decent and proper; in which I hope to pass the rest of my days, thinking always of my dead or absent friends..

When the Venetians over-ran the country, Petrarch prepared for flight. «Write your name over your door, said one of his friends, «and you will be safe.» « I am not so sure of that, replied Petrarch, and fled with his books to Padua.

His books he left to the Republic of Venice; but they exist no longer. His legacy to Francis Carrara, a Madonna painted by Giotto, is still preserved in the cathedral of Padua.

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A chapel of the Holy Virgin in the church of the Carmelites. It is adorned with his paintings, and all the great artists of Florence studied there; Lionardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolomeo, Andrea del Sarto, Michael Angelo, Raphael, etc.

He had no stone, no inscription, says one of his biographers, for he was thought little of in his life-time.

Se alcun cercasse il marmo, o il nome mio,
La Chiesa è il marmo, una cappella è il nome.

It was there that Michael Angelo received the blow in his face.-See VASARI, and CELLINI.

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Note 77, page 56, col. 2.

Hadst plagued him sore, and carefully requiting. After this line read as follows:

Such as condemn'd his mortal part to fire:
Many a transgressor sent to his account,
Long ere in Florence number'd with the dead;
The body still as full of life and stir

At home, abroad; still and as oft inclined
To eat, drink, sleep; still clad as others were,
And at noon-day, where men were wont to meet,
Met as continually; when the soul went,
Relinquish'd to a demon, and by him

(So says the Bard, and who can read and doubt?)
Dwelt in and govern'd.

Sit thee down awhile;

Then by the gates so beautiful, so glorious, etc.

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Note 89, page 57, col. 2.

From the deep silence that his questions drew.

It was given out that they had died of a contagious

A more dreadful vehicle for satire cannot well be fever; and funeral orations were publicly pronounced

conceived.

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in their honour.

Note 90, page 57, col. 2. Cimabue.

He was the father of modern painting, and the master of Giotto, whose talent he discovered in the way here alluded to.

. Cimabue stood still, and, having considered the boy and his work, he asked him, if he would go and live with him at Florence? To which the boy answered that, if his father was willing, he would go with all his heart.-VASARI.

Of Cimabue little now remains at Florence, except his celebrated Madonna, larger than the life, in Santa Maria Novella. It was painted, according to Vasari, in a garden near Porta S. Piero, and, when finished, was carried to the church in solemn procession with trumpets before it. The garden lay without the walls ; and such was the rejoicing there on the occasion, that the suburb received the name of Borgo Allegri, a name it still bears, though now a part of the city.

Note 91, page 57, col. 2.

Beautiful Florence.

It is somewhere mentioned that Michael Angelo, when he set out from Florence to build the dome of St Peter's, turned his horse round in the road to contemplate once more that of the cathedral, as it rose in the grey of the morning from among the pines and cypresses of the city, and that he said after a pause, Come te non voglio! Meglio di te non posso!» He never indeed spoke of it but with admiration; and if we may believe tradition, his tomb by his own desire was to be so placed in the Santa Croce as that from it might be seen, when the doors of the church stood open, that noble work of Bruneleschi.

Note 92, page 57, col. 2.

--that church among the rest.

Santa Maria Novella. For its grace and beauty it was called by Michael Angelo . La Sposa..

Note 93, page 57, col. 2.

Those who assembled there at matin-prayers.

In the year of the Great Plague.

Like thee I will not build one. Better than thee I cannot.

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