Page images
PDF
EPUB

1805.

Dec.

View from Diana's Peak.

great extent of ocean, in every direction, bounded only by the far distant horizon.

Here the detached scenes and prospects, which we had been admiring severally, were now, with many others, brought into one coup d'œil, and certainly formed a most interesting picture; every point of the compass presenting, as it were, a new landscape, distinguished by some striking feature in the outline, or beautiful little valley in front; the whole forming a most superb panorama, painted by a hand which defied all human imitation. The light flying clouds, which would frequently come sailing along on the S. E. breeze, and involve us in a momentary gloom, considerably heightened the effect of this picturesque scenery, by snatching it, as it were, for a few minutes at a time entirely from our view; when again, by their sudden dispersion, the whole varie gated prospect would lie extended before us.

So when light clouds on airy pinions sail,
Flit the soft shadows o'er the waving vale;
Shade follows shade,, as laughing zephyrs drive, 45
And all the chequer'd landscape seems alive."

The air on this peak, and indeed on all the hills of the island, was as cool as it usually is in the month of April in England, though it was now the middle of summer here, and the sun nearly vertical at mid-day. We need not wonder at this, when we consider, that the perpetual breeze, blowing over an immense extent of ocean, becomes quite cool before it reaches this island, whose elevated mountains attracting and con densing the passing clouds, are constantly moist; and hence too the evaporation from their summits is another cause of coolness in the air. We now descended by a rugged ridge to a telegraph sta

The Roscius of St. Helena.

Dec.

tion, called "Halley's Mount," where we were 1805. informed the celebrated Dr. Halley had pitched his tent, many years ago, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun's disk. From hence we went down another shattered ridge, on each side of which there was a deep ravine, that made us almost dizzy to look into. At length we came to Side Path, a narrow road cut along the side of a steep defile, which led us at last to James's Valley, where we arrived at sunset, very much fatigued, yet highly gratified with our twelve hours' ex

cursion.

[ocr errors]

On repairing to the only inn St. Helena affords, the master of which officiates in the triple capacity of inn-keeper, manager of the theatre, and principal performer, we requested a beef steak or mutton-chop, with all expedition, as the keen air of the mountains had given us pretty keen ap petites. The Roscius of St. Helena, after sur veying us for some time with astonishment, and throwing himself into a theatrical attitude, exclaimed," Good God, gentlemen! you must have a very imperfect idea of the extent to which humanity towards the brute creation is carried in this island! Why, gentlemen, there is more ceremony used here in cutting the throat of a bullock or a sheep, than there is in cutting the throat of a citizen in some of your European countries! In fact, gentlemen, no inhabitant can put to death one of his own animals, without the express permission of the governor in coun cil." "The duce take your Pythagorean humanity!" cried we; "so we must starve, forsooth, on account of your affected lenity to a paltry sheep or bullock." "Not so,” replied the hero of the buskin; "British tars will surely not

Discovery, Population, and Strength of St. Helena.

1805. complain of starving, when there is good salt Dec. junk and plenty of grog at their service." Though we were not perfectly of our host's opinion, we were nevertheless obliged to put up with what he could give us; and the addition of a dish of fish proved highly acceptable after our fatiguing journey. ::

MISCELLANEOUS PARTICULARS,

THE island of St. Helena was first discovered by, the Portuguese, in 1508, on the 21st of May, which is St. Helen's feast; and hence the name of the island. The English formed a settlement on it in 1660; and a few years afterwards, it was taken by the Dutch, from whom it was retaken by the English under captain Munden, in 1674, and has ever since remained in the hands of the East India Company. It is about a thousand miles to the southward of the line, and nearly the same distance from the African continent. The coast describes an irregular indented line, which from point to point measures twenty-eight miles in circumference; its greatest length is about ten miles, and breadth six or seven.,

It is in most places fortified by nature; and where not so, they have guns to point on every spot that is at all accessible. We were told that there were between four and five hundred pieces of cannon mounted on the different batteries round the island; and that they could turn out between fourteen and fifteen hundred regular troops, independent of militia, which might amount to a thousand more. The total population on the island may be about four thousand souls.

They are vigilant on the approach of a fleet; and as no boats could land to windward of the

Animals and Vegetables.

island, on 'account of the surf, while guns are placed on every crag and eminence to leeward, it would be a very difficult matter to take the island.

Though black cattle thrive remarkably well here, yet from the small extent of pasture grounds which the island affords, the government is obliged to limit the inhabitants in the use of flesh meat; in order that the island may serve the purpose for which it is kept at a great expence by the Company, namely, to afford refreshments and water to the homeward-bound ships. On this account the military and servants are only allowed fresh beef or mutton four times a year; at each of these periods the former have three, and the latter five fresh meals. The gentlemen of course have them frequently, though with some restrictions. This inconvenience, however, is amply compensated for, by the great abundance of vegetables produced on the island, and the shoals of fish that surround its shores.

Potatoes are reared here in such abundance, that ships might be freighted with them; and their quality is not inferior to that of English potatoes. Among the culinary vegetables, the cabbages of this island are remarkably fine. No grain, I believe, is sown in any part of St. Helena. It is somewhat singular, that on this island the order of nature seems to be in some respects inverted; for we see the summits and sides of the Toftiest mountains clothed with fertility and verdure; while the lesser hills, and even the valleys, become harren as they approach the sea. This circumstance is easily accounted for, when we consider that all the lofty peaks are perpetually watered by the passing clouds; many of which

1805.

Dec.

Dec.

Climate of St. Helena.

1805. being arrested in their progress, and condensed on the brows of the mountains, prove to them a never failing source of fertility, which is totally denied the lower hills and valleys; rain being a very rare phenomenon on this island.

[ocr errors]

The climate of St. Helena is remarkably salubrious, and conducive to longevity; the temperature of the air being very moderate, considering it situation within the tropics, where the sun is vertical twice a year. From the great inequality of the surface of this island, there is considerable diversity in its climate; the thermometer on the heights frequently sinking below 54°; while in James's valley it is sometimes above 84°. There are no land and sea breezes here, the island not being sufficiently large, nor capable of acquiring a temperature that would produce those diurnal winds. The south-east trade-wind, therefore (excepting at those periods when the sun is vertical), blows constantly over the island with a steady and uniform force. Storms, rain, thunder, and lightning are consequently very rare occurrences, and never happen but when the sun is passing

over the island in his annual course.

The greatest inconvenience which St. Helena is subject to, is drought; which has been known. to continue for three years, and prove a great Scourge to the island; killing the cattle, destroying the trees, and withering every appearance of vegetation. It is supposed that the paucity of the latter, is a great cause of this deficiency in moisture; consequently they are endeavouring to spread vegetation and plant trees, as much as possible, over the arid rocks near the shore.

It is remarked by the inhabitants, that storms, attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, oc

« PreviousContinue »