GOLDEN CHAMPION GRAPE.

GOLDEN CHAMPION has done exceedingly well with us this season as a pot Vine. A thoroughly-ripened one-year-old cane of it, which was gently started in a successional Pine stove in December, has perfected some of the finest examples I ever remember seeing. The heaviest bunch when cut weighed 2 lbs., with berries as large as those produced on any planted- |

struck from cuttings in the open ground round London in multitudes. The old plants might be shaken out of their pots and planted in the open ground to be taken up early in the autumn, so as to get well-established in the pots before winter; they would make excellent plants for forcing next spring. The midsummer cuttings will make strong plants by next October, and if they are well encouraged early in the spring they will make beautiful flowering plants this time next year. All the best varieties of the Chinese Primrose should now be divided and planted-out in a shady situation in very rotten leaf mould, to be taken up next September for winter flowering. Seedlings of them should also be planted-out now in spare pits well shaded, there to remain until they all flower, when the inferior sorts may be thrown away.

PITS.

Prepare to make a large plantation of your choice dwarf and young plants in these useful structures, turned out of the pots for two or three months in suitable composts. One who has not seen the good effects of this plan can hardly conceive the improvement it makes in the plants, particularly on Heaths, Epacrises, and other delicate plants which are difficult to manage in dry hot seasons under the ordinary pot culture.-W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK.

SINCE writing last week's doings we have heard of the rain falling in torrents around us. We did not miss it all. It rained one morning for six hours, during which a little over half an inch fell, for which we are thankful, as the drooping plants require it very much. There seems to be considerable attraction for the rains to the north and south of us-on the one hand the Thames valley, and on the other Epping Forest. We have often been anxiously looking for rain when there has been a sound of abundance; but the heavy clouds rising in the west have divided, watering the gardens and fields of our neighbours and leaving us dry.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

As there is now plenty of Green Peas we have discontinued cutting the Asparagus. The ground had got full of weeds and young plants from self-sown Asparagus seeds. We had to pick out all between the plants in the rows, running the hoe over afterwards. Had we more beds of Asparagus to make we would plant in the same way as we did these. The plants are 18 inches apart, and 2 feet 6 inches between the rows. The plants are yet young and the crowns are near the surface, so as a winter dressing some rotted manure is spread evenly over the whole quarter, and over this some fine loam. When the crowns are buried sufficiently deep it will have a good dressing of rotted manure only, which will be lightly forked in between the rows. The dressing should be put on in November, and forked-in some time in February when the weather is fine.

repotted, the higher temperature caused thereby causes a more active root-growth. The house where the fruit is ripening should be aired freely, and, if the weather is dull and cold, the heating apparatus should be moderately warm.

Vineries. In the early houses, where the Grapes are quite ripe no artificial heat is required. We now leave the ventilators fully open night and day, unless it is a high wind or rain; the wind blowing through the house shakes the leaves about, and in many instances they rub the bloom of the Grapes; this ought in all cases to be avoided.

We are always anxious to get rid of the fruit as soon as we can after it is ripe, as, notwithstanding all precautions, our desperate enemy red spider will appear, and nothing can be done with it when ripe fruit is hanging in the house. As soon as the Grapes are all cut the leaves can be thoroughly syringed once in two days until every vestige of the spider is removed. The leaves should be kept healthy as long as possible, but all young growths should be pinched-off as fast as they are made. In the late houses there is little to be done except stopping-back any young growths, airing, and watering, as recommended last week.

CUCUMBER AND MELON HOUSES.

Little more has been done here, except the details given last week. The earliest house of Melons will soon be cleared of the plants, and were we called upon to supply a succession of fruit, a fresh batch of young plants would now be ready to plant-out, and would have fruit on them ready to cut in August. The houses will be filled at once with Azaleas, which are put in to make their growth and set their flower-buds for next year.

ORCHARD HOUSE.

We are now clearing away the Strawberry plants which have borne fruit; they are now being placed out of doors. If they were planted-out now an excellent crop could be gathered; but many plants that we have given away to amateurs and others in previous years have not succeeded with them, the reason was that the plants perished for lack of water at the roots. The plants were turned-out of the pots, and planted in the loose light soil common in the neighbourhood, the result being that all the water given to the plants passed down the sides of the ball of earth without wetting the centre. In all cases, when such plants are planted-out at this season, the outsides of the ball of roots should be pricked round with a pointed stick, the plants should also be placed deeper in the ground than usual, and the earth trod-in very firmly, leaving a shallow depression round the plant, so that in watering the essential element will find its way exactly where it is most required. We have done nothing to the fruit trees, except to water freely and syringe twice a-day.

CONSERVATORY AND PLANT STOVE.

Such hot weather as we have experienced the last few days has caused us to be very careful in the use of artificial heat. We What splendid crisp Lettuce we are cutting this year! The will cease firing altogether if the present fine weather continues. sort is Hicks's Hardy White Cos. No other sort is grown with us It is necessary to shut up early in the afternoon the stove where now, except this and Paris White. We have planted-out a few plants are making their growth, and to maintain a moist atmotrenches of Celery, and as the early Cabbage is cleared-off the sphere. The earliest-flowering plants of Dendrobium nobile have ground is thrown up in trenches for succession crops. been removed to the early vinery where they have plenty of air night and day; after a while, if the weather is favourable, the plants will be removed out of doors against a south wall. We have also been washing Stephanotis, Ixoras, Gardenias, &c., where mealy bug had appeared. Where such plants as Croton angustifolium and others liable to the attacks of red spider had not been syringed daily this pest had appeared, and was spreading rapidly. Laying the plants on their sides and thoroughly syringing them cleared them pretty well; future attention to syringing will keep them in good health. In the conservatory many of the hardwooded plants have been removed out of doors. The house is very gay yet with Azaleas, Calceolarias, late Roses in pots, &c.

Hoeing and sticking succession crops of Peas. Another season we will grow more of the dwarf Peas. Blue Peter on a south border just coming in is a splendid crop; they have just a few short sticks placed to them to keep the pods off the ground. The Strawberry beds are now requiring attention. The fruit ought to be thinned, hundreds are set on every plant. We will place a few sprays of Elm, Beech, and Hornbeam round each plant; the fruit will then hang over the clefts and be kept clear above the ground. It will ripen and colour so much better in this way, and be out of the way of slugs and other crawling vermin. We first tried a few rows in this way, placing clean straw over the other part of the bed, and the produce from the rows supported with sticks was much better in quality, and double the weight of fruit was obtained.

Clouds of black aphis attacked the wall Cherries and other plants. The fecundity of this pest is amazing. We left off working amongst the bush and pyramid trees, and attacked the aphis with water in which soft soap and tobacco was dissolved. We either dipped the shoots in the water or washed them with a sponge. We have finished cutting-back the shoots on the Pear trees; it is quite early enough if the Apples are done in a week

hence.

FRUIT AND FORCING HOUSES.

In the pineries there is little attention required, except watering the plants, airing and damping the houses. Many persons have an idea that Pines are difficult to manage, and that their culture is attended with great labour and expense. The Pine is as easily grown as any other fruit, but in many instances the plants are checked by having the roots injured by being plunged in fermenting material when it is too hot. We seldom renew our Pine beds more than twice a year, a sufficiently high temperature being maintained in the beds from the hot-water pipes. The best time to renew the beds is when the plants have been

FLOWER GARDEN.

the flower buds. We only grow a few of the hardiest sorts in the Placing sticks to Carnations and Picotees and thinning out borders, the finer varieties pine away and die if planted out in our light soil. We manage them very well, three plants in a 10-inch pot. A suitable soil for them under such circumstances is good turfy loam of a clayey nature, to which is added a sixth part of rotted stable manure, and the same quantity of leaf mould well incorporated together. Hoeing the flower beds so that all weeds may be destroyed and the ground loosened, after which if no more rain fall we will give a good soaking with water. Many thanks to the raiser of those two fine Žonal Pelargoniums, Wellington and Ianthe. What a vast improvement they have made in our flower garden! The colour of both is most brilliant; the coloured drawings of Ianthe give not the least conception of the colour of the flowers. We have another very pretty margin to a small bed in two dense rows of Avalanche, white-flowered silver-variegated Zonal Pelargonium, with an edging of Lobelia pumila. Cutting the lawn, looking over the herbaceous border to see that no choice Alpine plants are smothered with their more dense-growing neighbours.-J. DOUGLAS.

TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED.

J. Van der Veldt, Florist, Wagenweg, 302, Haarlem, Holland. -Price Current of Flower Roots and Bulbs.

GRUBS IN POTTING SOIL (Wm. A., jun.).—We should turn the soil over a few times before using it, and pick out all the grubs we could see, sprinkling with soot each layer of soil as turned over, using just enough soot to make the soil appear black, say to every 2 or 3-inch layer of soil a dusting of the soot. It may not destroy them, but usually drives them away, and is a good

manure.

GAS TAR TO YOUNG TREE STEMS (Idem).-It is decidedly injurious, especially to young trees, and is a poor preventive of the attacks of rabbits. We had several Laburnums that were coated with gas tar, and all of them have died. It seems to affect trees with a smooth bark the most. Those that swell considerably in a year from the annual growth do not appear to suffer much from the gas tar. We should not repeat the application. BURNET ROSE (J. G.).-The petals were all shed. As far as we can judge we see no departure from the normal form, except stunted growth.

PELARGONIUMS AND GERANIUMS (Ignoramus).-The difference is very small. What are commonly called Geraniums are not Geraniums at all, but Pelargoniums. There is no doubt that there is a great difference between the Storksbill and Cranesbill-they constitute two different genera; but there is no very great difference between what are commonly called the Geraniume used for bedding purposes and the Pelargoniums used for in-door flowerings Both are Pelargoniums. Pelargonium is characterised by having usually seven stamens, and unequal-sized petals; Geranium by having ten stamens, and equal-sized petals; and Erodium, by having five fertile anthers usually. The three genera are nearly allied.

SEEDS OF PERENNIALS (R. Muir.)-Any of the leading seedsmen who advertise in our columns could either supply them out of their own stock or procure them for you.

SKELETONISING LEAVES (An Old Subscriber).-We know of but one book on the subject with the very attractive title of "The Phantom Bouquet." Its author is Mr. Parish, and it was published at Philadelphia. We have a copy, and it is a very beautiful little volume. You might obtain it through Messrs. Sampson, Low, & Co., Booksellers, Fleet Street.

DOUBLE PETUNIA (Milligan & Kerr).-We think very highly of your seedling double Petunia, so far as we can judge from the two blooms you sent us. Send a potted plant to the Floral Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society.

VINE SHOOTS DISEASED (Inquirer).-Had the two Vine shoots been received they would have been noticed, but we do not remember them. Send other specimens.

GLENDINNING FUND.-We have received 58. from "C. L. W.," and £4 from Lady Harriett Lindsay and N. A. Lindsay, Esq.

CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCCOLIS DYING-OFF (R. D.).-The grubs at the roots of your plants are probably ambury or club root. The remedy is a difficult one. Gas lime at the rate of twelve bushels per acre is, perhaps, the best preventive, sprinkling it on the surface, and pointing it in with a fork before planting. At planting, the root-stems should be examined, and if they have an excrescence or knot on them, that should be opened with the thumb nail, and a grub will be found. The root-stems of the plants before planting should be dipped in a puddle formed of equal parts lime, soot, and cow dung brought to the consistency of mortar, thoroughly coating the roots and stems with it, and then planting. The disease is most prevalent on ground that has long been in cultivation and often cropped with the Cabbage tribe.

CYCLAMENS AFTER FLOWERING (J. W. S.).-Plant them out in a cold frame in light soil on an east border, and allow them to remain with abundance of air day and night, using the lights only to save the plants or soil from being drenched by heavy rains, when, though the lights are to be kept over the plants, they should be tilted at the back. Early in August take up the plants, remove from the ball the soil not occupied with roots, and repot in a size of pot that will hold the roots comfortably. Set the pots on ashes in a cold frame, admit air freely, and water so as to keep the soil moist, sprinkling the plants overhead every evening.

PROPAGATING ROSES AND CONVOLVULUS MAURITANICUS (A. G.).-The Roses succeed best budded on the Manetti stock. Budding may be done soon after the flowering is over. They strike freely from cuttings taken off after the flowers are shed, and inserted singly in pots in sandy soil. Place them in a cold frame, keep them close and shaded from sun, sprinkle the cuttings overhead every morning lightly, but replace the lights immediately. After they begin to grow, or in about six weeks, admit air freely, gradually at first, expose fully by the end of another six weeks, and shift them into larger pots in September. Winter them in a frame, the pots plunged in ashes, and with protection over the lights in severe weather. Convolvulus mauritanicus is increased by cuttings of the young growths inserted in sandy soil surfaced with sand, and placed in gentle heat shaded from bright sun. Rock Cistus is propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots put in now in sandy soil in a sheltered shady border and covered with a hand-glass.

VINE BORDER MAKING (Idem).-The border should be well drained, and the drains should have a proper fall and outlet. The depth of the border should be 3 feet 9 inches, and the bottom should be covered with brickbats, stones, &c., to the depth of 9 inches, the roughest at the bottom and the smallest at the top, and on this a layer of sods, grass side downwards. The border to be filled 9 inches higher than the intended level with a compost of turf cut 3 inches thick where the soil is a good light loam and chopped up moderately small, say in pieces 2 or 3 inches square. Use of this eight parts, old mortar rubbish from an old building one part, charcoal halt part, and half part crushed bones. The whole should be well mixed. If the soil is rather strong add two parts freestone broken up as for making a road. The border should be the width of the house.

IMPROVING ASPARAGUS BEDS (Idem).-You would do well to sow seeds new in the beds you have planted and which are growing weakly. Sow the seed in

drills a foot apart, and thin out to 6 inches apart in the rows. The Maréchal much better planted out. Could you not plant it out and train the shoots Niel Rose which you have in a pot is not healthy at the roots. It succeeds near the glass? It would give more satisfaction. If you keep it in the pot, repot in turfy loam with a fourth of well-rotted manure added."

DARK CLIMBING ROSES (Amateur, Cirencester).-There are no really good dark climbing Roses to train on walls to match Maréchal Niel or Gloire de Dijon. Crimson Boursault is only a summer bloomer, does not last long, and but an indifferent Rose after all. Such Roses as Général Jacqueminot, John Hopper, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, and a few others of the strong-growing Hybrid Perpetuals will with care grow some height. As a pink, Blairii No. 2

is well worth growing, but it is not a second bloomer.

SHORTENING GOOSEBERRY SHOOTS (A New Subscriber).-The young shoots from the spurs of last year may be cut back to within two or three leaves of their base early in July. It admits light and air to the spurs, and favours their ripening.

THINNING GRAPES (Q. Q.).-Your Vines with from eighteen to twenty-four bunches on a 12-feet rod should not be allowed to carry more than one bunch per foot, or twelve bunches each, and to that number we should reduce them If the bunches are large we should not leave more than eight bunches to each Vine. They will have a better finish than a heavier crop. Very heavy crops are seldom satisfactory.

at once.

CURRANT TREE SHOOTS WITHERING (Nottingham).—If you had split the caterpillar, which may also be caught at his work of destruction if the exami shoots down their centres you would have found the pith consumed, the tube where it had been blackened, and nothing remaining but the excrements of a nation is made so soon as the branch first shows symptoms of withering. This caterpillar is fleshy, whitish, with four yellowish brown spots near its Sphinx tipuliformis, Sesia, or Ægeria, or Bombecia tipuliformis, and Bemhead. It is the larva of the Currant Sphinx (Trochilum tipuliforme and the becia tipuliforme of others. The parent moth is beautiful, and may be seen at the end of May and early in June during hot sunshine, either settled on the leaves of the Currant, or flying around the flowers of the Syringa and Lilac. It is about three-quarters of an inch across the wings when these are quite opened. The prevailing colour is bluish black, with various parts yellow; the antennæ black; the breast with a yellow line on each side; the abdomen,

or lower part of the body, has three yellow rings round it in the females, and four in the males; the fore wings are barred and veined with black; it has a pleases. The Red, White, and Black Currant, and, we think, the Gooseberry, brush of fine scales at the end of its abdomen, which fan it can expand as it are all liable to its attacks. It lays its eggs at this time in openings of the bark of a young shoot, and the caterpillar immediately it is hatched penetrates to its pith, and eats its way down this until it reaches the pith of the main branch. The only securitive measures are to kill the moth whenever seen, and to split open the withered branches and serve the caterpillars similarly.

GARDENER'S EMPLOYMENT (F. W.).-We really must decline to enter into particulars on such cases; there are circumstances, appliances, and needs wo know not. But we may say that we have known some such places done by the gardener and an assistant, and again by an assistant and a boy, but we have known double that amount of labour required. Besides, you gave us no sufficient data as to flower garden; we presume that is on the grass, and a thousand plants is nothing in these days. Then, where are the fruit trees? Are they contained in a quarter of an acre of a kitchen garden? If so, and if from what is left you have to find vegetables all the year round for a family of twelve persons, all we have to say is that they must be easily served. With a constant demand for vegetables we do not see how it can be done. STRAWBERRIES BLIGHTED (J. L.).-There is little doubt but that the white floury substance on your Strawberries is mildew. mildew are a close atmosphere and a want of reciprocal action between the The chief causes of roots and the leaves and fruit. For instance, if the roots are rather dry, and the atmosphere is close, and warm, and moist, it will have a tendency to produce mildew. On the other hand, if the roots are kept extra clogged with and there were several dull sunless days in succession, and consequently little moisture, such as a careless everyday waterer might supply them with, and more especially if the pots stood in saucers, and water was left in the saucers, dropsical condition, such as some of the fungi, and mildew among the rest, demand made on the leaves and fruit, there would be a tendency to a diseased delight to flourish. As to the remedy, a slight dusting of sulphur over leaves and fruit when it first appears is the best; but that will be valueless, so far as the fruit is concerned, if not applied as soon as the first speck of the dust appears, for if delayed longer the remedy will be as bad as the disease, as the fruit will be too blotched to be fit for going to table, though it might come in as a constituent for creams, ices, &c. That is the chief mechanical remedy washing the walls with sulphur and lime, placing sulphur and lime on the after the evil appears; but we have more faith in prevention in such cases heating medium, provided that is not above 160 in temperature, and giving than cure, and the chief preventives are great cleanliness in the houses, air to the houses in good time, so that the atmosphere shall not be confined. In fact, but for the coal heap we would leave a little air on houses all night at the highest part. As soon as the warm weather sets in we uniformly do so. Even from half an inch to an inch along the top of a house all night prevents all scalding and burning, is a great bugbear to that little enemy red sphere in which it generally delights. spider, and does much to keep off mildew by preventing that close atmo