depth. The front line might be broken at convenient places by a recess for the reception of a good specimen in a pot, or by projections in the curved form at other places, so as to break up the formal appearance of a straight line. In this bed on each side of the entrance, also at each corner of the house, as well as two or three intermediate spaces, I should plant specimens for permanent effect, and partition-off a place for each plant by 4-inch brickwork (half a brick wide). This would prevent the intrusion of the roots of other plants into the border, and they could then have water applied according to their particular requirements. The border proper I would give up entirely to a selection of climbers. In a lofty building a lot of healthy, free-growing, climbing plants rambling over the roof are a great ornament, but they will not thrive satisfactorily in cramped-up spaces: hence my reason for assigning them the remainder of the border. This done, the rest of the arrangement can be completed by the introduction of pot plants, placing the tallest at the back or near the glass, and the dwarfer ones in the front, facing them all to the path.

Assuming the dimensions of the building given above to be outside measure, and deducting 2 feet on each side and each end for thickness of brickwork, it leaves the interior 41 feet by 24 in the clear; and taking off a width of 7 feet all round for border, it gives a space 27 feet long by 10 feet wide for promenade. This, then, affords room for a small circular bed in the centre of the house for growing a handsome specimen tree Fern, Palm, or a standard Orange tree. Then, if the surface of the bed be covered with Selaginella denticulata, it will give it an attractive appearance. Whatever plant be placed in the centre, it should have a stem tall enough for visitors to walk under its branches, otherwise the space will be inconveniently taken up.

The next thing to be considered is a choice of plants to be grown, and I will begin with the climbers. Tacsonia VanVolxemi, Passiflora quadrangularis, Rhynchospermum jasminoides, Mandevilla suaveolens, Bignonia Chrere, Cobra scandens variegata, Habrothamnus elegans, Kennedya Marryattæ, Lapageria rosea, Heliotropium peruvianum, Jasminum odcratum, and light and dark coarse-growing Fuchsias. The above have good growing qualities and bloom freely; they also include variety of colour of flower and foliage, and will all grow with greenhouse treatment, and are all evergreen.

Taking next the plants for permanent effect, I would place on each side of the doorway a nice plant of Dracaena australis or indivisa; they are tall-growing handsome plants with gracefully drooping foliage. In other places I would plant white Camellias; Fimbriata, a fine white, and Imbricata, a deep rose, both of which are good standard sorts. Then there is Jubilee, delicate pink and a fine flower, plant strong-growing; Bealii, bright crimson; and Marchioness of Exeter, fine rose. Others might be added, but the above will not disappoint. There ought to be included a couple of plants of Luculia gratissima, than which there is no better plant for a conservatory. After these come standard or bush-grown Orange trees, which ought to be included in the building, as well as Acacia grandis and Brugmansia sanguinea, Knightii, and arborea, and Aralia Sieboldi or japonies, which latter is the proper specific name. I would not omit a couple of plants of Pittosporum Tobira, and a standard plant of scarlet Rhododendron and one of Gibsoni. I might go on enumerating plants till one would be puzzled as to which to choose. All the above are well-tried plants for such a purpose, and would be sure to please. My aim would be to grow these plants into large specimens, but more for height than breadth, so that their branches would be clear of the dwarfer plants to be arranged under them, and give a more natural effect to the interior of the building. The above number would be quite as many as it would be advisable to plantout, depending upon pot plants to complete the decoration, and of these a goodly number may be easily grown in the house all the year round, and at the same time add to the variety and distinctness of foliage to be distributed amongst other plants of a contrasting habit. These may include Seaforthia elegans, Areca sapida and rubra, Chamaerops excelsa and humilis, and Latania borbonica, all Palms of a more or less elegant appearance. After these I should rely upon several varieties of Ferns to improve the general appearance, such as Blechnum corcovadense, Dicksonia antarctica (small plants), Lomaria gibba, Nephrodium molle, Nephrolepis exaltata, Woodwardia radicans, Pteris serrulata, serrulata cristata, and longifolia, as well as Adiatum formosum, cuneatum, and Capillus-Veneris.

Considering the above to be the permanent occupants of the conservatory, the decoration will not be complete without a liberal addition of flowering plants from time to time. I think I may reasonably assume that whoever spent £700 in building such a conservatory as shown in the engraving would not be unwilling to build a plant house from which to draw plants for its decoration. One portion of this house should be for forcing plants into flower, and the other as a greenhouse; therefore in winter I should endeavour to have in bloom Lilacs, Ribes, Deutzia gracilis, Roses of sorts, Spiræs japonica and Reevesii, Lily of the Valley, Azaleas of sorts, Hyacinths, and Tulips, as well as several other things. In the spring and summer months will be coming in such plants as Cinerarias, Primulas (also in winter), Cytisus racemosus, Coronilla glauca, Camellias, Azaleas, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Heaths, and a variety of other useful decorative plants commonly met with in a plant house. These, added to what have been mentioned, will make up a very pretty and interesting display, and, if tastefully arranged, ought to please the most fastidious.

I have found from experience that the mixing of colours in conservatory arrangement is generally the most pleasing, and have, therefore, followed it up in the present instance. I should, however, consider there was little or no difficulty in varying my arrangements so as to produce a change of effect in a building of this description, and any colour that would be more pleasing in a mass, or a plant or plants that would be desirable to show off conspicuously, could be done.

I am an advocate for any design in the interior of a conservatory which does not crowd plants, but allows for plenty of root-growth as well as development of branch. Many disappointments have arisen through the builder having the allotment of spaces for plant-growing instead of the gardener; the consequence is that many times plants have to grow, or strive to grow, in cramped-up places, and are seldom for any length of time fit subjects to adorn the places to which they have been consigned.-THOMAS RECORD.

PRIMULA SIEBOLDI VAR. LILACINA. THIS Primula is a native of Japan, and was introduced into Europe in 1862. Since then it has been shown at some of the spring exhibitions, as well as at the florists', where this charming plant is always admired for the freshness of its green, its graceful habit, and its large, open, soft lilac flowers. It resembles the Chinese Primula which everyone knows, and which is such an adornment to the conservatory and drawingroom, but is more graceful in habit and more delicate in the colour of its blossoms:

In his beautiful "Flora," M. H. Witte states that the type of this Primrose with rosy-purple flowers was introduced in 1862 by Von Siebold, of Leyden, from whom it passed to Messrs. Veitch. The first flowers of Messrs. Veitch's plants were submitted to Dr. Lindley, who assigned them to Primula cortusoides, distinguishing two varieties, amœna and striata; and at the present day, by most botanists, and among horti culturists generally, these Primulas are considered to be varieties of P. cortusoides.

Primula cortusoides was found in Siberia by Gmelin; it is a weak-growing little plant, pretty, but very delicate, and of small proportions. Linnæus took it for a hybrid between Primula integrifolia and Cortusa Matthioli, regarding it as having the leaves of the former and the flowers of the latter. It was figured in 1797 in the "Botanical Magazine," with a rosy purple corolla having five acute, entire segments. It is a scarce and delicate plant, requiring to be wintered in a greenhouse or frame, and flowering in June or July. It loses its leaves at the end of autumn, and remains dormant till spring. N. J. Jacquin, in describing in 1798 the rare plants in the Imperial Garden at Schönbrunn, Vienna, noticed one interesting variety in which the flower-scape produced several whorls of flowers-precisely the character of Primula japonicabut the rosy violet flowers were insignificant. Lehmann, "Monographie des Primevères," published in 1817, mentions & white-flowered variety of Primula cortusoides, and according to Thunberg there is another kind not only to be found in Siberia, but in the wooded mountains of Japan. Duby, in 1844, extends the range of the plant to the Ural. In an article in the "Revue Horticole," by M. Grænland in 1859, it is stated that the flowers open in spring and again in autumn, that the plant is herbaceous, and flourishes in light soil in a somewhat shady situation. Dr. Lindley records it not only in Dahuria

moth on the fruit trees of a rather imperious "lord of the soil," who had threatened me for a presumed trespass; but I did not know how the law would view such an action!

I refer to this species, however, as an instance of how much might be done to keep down the number of the annual brood of caterpillars by a careful search after the eggs of the moth in the winter months. The legislative enactments for the destruction of insects in Belgium fail in this respect, that while providing for the killing of caterpillars, no measures are taken for the extinction of the germs of insect life-undoubtedly a most efficient plan. There are species of Liparis, such as L. auriflua and salicis, both well known in this country, which may be easily dealt with in winter by hunting-up the hybernating communities, similarly, also, the caterpillars of the Black-veined White Butterfly (A. Crategi), of a like habit. Mr. Birchall notes that a regular annual destruction of these takes place in some parts of Belgium in November or February; but he noticed on a Cherry tree near Antwerp fifteen batches of the eggs of L. dispar, in which lurked thousands of caterpillars, of whose existence no one took any cognisance. Doubtless a similar neglect is shown in other instances, and it is to be hoped, if we ever legislate on the subject, the extirpation of the eggs of insects will be made duly important. We in England have done somewhat in the way of protecting birds, a regulation for which is sorely needed in Belgium and other parts of Europe, where the slaughter of small birds is ruthlessly carried on, especially in the spring and early summer, when it is highly prejudicial in its results upon the birds and their nestlings.-J. R. S. C.

THE UNSUBDUABLE ANTS.

THE greater the number of specifics for a disease, the greater the probability that it is incurable. The continued questions that you receive about ants seem to show that the great desideratum is yet to be found. I have repeatedly tried arsenic mixed with sugar, and also with treacle, but my ants are too sagacious to touch it. This spring, seeing the avidity with which they devoured raisin skins, I mashed up some with arsenic. They examined the dainty, but respectfully declined it. The oil remedy, stated on good authority to be useful, bas with me proved useless. Every morning for several months past a kettle of boiling water has killed numbers in an orchard house, but they still swarm there. Gunpowder has been put into their holes and ignited, but the entrance is so small that probably it is instantaneously closed, and no smoke descends into the nest. By saucers filled with syrup I drown many, but, like the Hydra, they multiply still; carbolic acid is disagreeable to them, but will not persuade them to flit.-G. S.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

CONTINUE to thin the crops that require it, while they are still small, and in every case where practicable loosen the soil about them, and if dry give them a good watering. This will greatly benefit them after disturbing their roots, and, the soil being loose, the effect will be so much greater. Basil and Marjoram that have been sown in beds should be thinned-out to about 6 inches from plant to plant. Make another sowing of Broad Beans in the beginning of the week; top the forward crop if not yet done. To have the Cape varieties of Broccoli fine, the seed should be sown where the plants are to remain; deep drills should be drawn, and two or three seeds dropped in at the distance of 2 feet apart; slightly cover the seed, and keep it watered if dry weather should occur. When it is up thin to one plant at the distance above named. This is a good time to sow a little Cabbage seed for autumn produce; any of the small sorts should be preferred for this sowing. Plant out some Cauliflowers from the first sowing in the open ground; a small quantity planted from two or three several sowings will keep up a better succession than the small stunted plants of very early sowings. Peg-down the Cucumber plants on the ridges as they advance in growth, and when the hand-glasses will no longer contain them, set these on three bricks placed edgeways, or on forked sticks; when they require water give it them milk warm early in the day. After thinning the Onions loosen the soil between the rows, and if the weather is dry give them a thorough watering. The thinnings of the beds may be planted out, but must be watered every night if the weather prove dry, until they take fresh roothold; this must be particularly attended to, as the roots will of necessity be very near the surface. The last sowing of Knight's Dwarf Green Marrow Peas should now be made, as it is longer in coming into bearing than any other. Continue to earth-up and stick the advancing crops. If the pods of the early crop do not fill well in conse

quence of drought, give them one good root-soaking, which will be sufficient for them while they last. Make another sowing of Radishes of the various sorts to succeed those sown the middle of last month. Plant out some of the early-sown Savoys; the dwarf sorts may be planted at 14 foot apart in the row, the rows to be 2 feet from each other. The larger sorts should be at the latter distance in the row, and the rows 2 feet apart. As Tomatoes are usually planted under a south wall, where they receive little benefit from a passing shower, they should be occasionally watered and kept mulched with short litter; nail and stop the shoots as they advance in growth.

FRUIT GARDEN.

Continue to pay attention to fruit trees; nail-in the strong shoots of those against walls. If Cherry trees are attacked by insects, dip the ends of the shoots in tobacco water. Vines on walls require much attention to bring the fruit to perfection; indeed, if proper attention is not paid to them in stopping, regu lating, and nailing-in the shoots, they are not worth retaining. Pinch out the points of Fig-tree shoots that are rather rampant; this will cause the young fruit to swell better, and will have a tendency to render the shoots more fruitful. In making a fresh plantation secure a dry situation, and keep the plant growing from one stem, as the sucker-like appearance which our Fig trees generally present is a great drawback to their management.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Remove everything in the way of early bedding plants whose beauty may be over or that is at all ineffective, and introduce good things from pots in the reserve ground. A good reserve ground, if properly situated and systematically planned and conducted, would be one of the most useful plots about a garden. Such a valuable adjunct as this would, however, require the constant attention of a man possessing some knowledge of flowers, and therefore could not be carried out where there is a scarcity of labourers. Decayed patches of bulbs which are required to stand for early spring flowering may have Verbenas and other plants introduced from pots between them, so as to give gaiety to the place they occupy. Cuttings of Pansies should be put out in succession before the shoots are too much exhausted. All boundary or other hedges should be clipped forthwith. Auricula seedlings must be shaded from the glare of the mid-day sun, and especially watch the attacks of aphis or green fly, which usually secretes itself in the heart of the plant, and multiplies amazingly in hot weather. If you wish to save yourself a great deal of trouble you will remove the insects as they appear. Place two or three oyster shells on the surface of the soil in the large pots; it prevents evaporation, and also saves the roots from being washed bare in watering them. Polyanthuses are very subject to the attacks of red spider; to keep these pests down, them. Break off the capsules of Tulips to strengthen the roots. shade your plants, and if in a bed keep the soil moist around The bulbs on the offset beds will soon be ready to take up should the weather be dry. The stakes ought to be put down to Dahlias without delay, and the plants will be the better of being mulched with rotten manure.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As soon as Azaleas and other plants of the kind shall have been placed in summer quarters out of doors, painting and other repairs required by any of the plant houses should be commenced, as they can be more conveniently done then than at any other season. As recommended, pay great attention to plants for autumn and early winter decoration. Let them have plenty of pot room, good rich compost to grow in, a moist atmosphere, and plenty of space for perfect development, regulating the temperature according to the nature of the plant, and they will make rapid growth. Many of the New Holland plants and other greenhouse subjects will soon be getting past their best, and some foresight and care will be necessary to avoid being short of specimens in bloom with which to supply their places. Where circumstances will admit, plants that have been grown in a warm moist atmosphere should be removed to an intermediate house about a fortnight previous to their being taken to the conservatory, and gradually inured to a free circulation of air. By attention to this and placing the plants in the warmest corners of the conservatory, Clerodendrons, Allamandas, Achimenes, &c., will continue growing slowly and bloom for some three months, whereas if this is neglected their beauty may be very short-lived. Aim at maintaining an even temperature in the conservatory after removing thence plants that have grown in the stove, and avoid allowing the atmosphere to become very dry on bright warm days. Also see that every plant is perfectly clean before placing it in this house, and that climbers, &c., are not infested with insects. Go over the house every morning, and remove decaying flowers and leaves as they make their appearance. Young stock in pits and frames will now be making rapid growth, and must be carefully attended to as to watering, stopping, training, &c. New conservatories where a collection of climbers has been planted this spring should now be kept as hot as a stove, and as damp as water can make them day and night. It is bad poiicy to use the common routine for such a house the first season. We often hear of