GRAPE-KEEPING.

BELTON GRAPE ROOM, 1872 AND 1873.

NDER the above heading last spring in THE JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE, vol. xxii., p. 86, you published an account of my failure in keeping Grapes in bottles of water in a room erected specially for the purpose, and with that account is a plan. I there stated particulars of the treatment to which the Grapes had been subjected from the time of cutting them, and asked for information on the subject. In addition to the writers of private letters, conveying information from many of the highest authorities, I have to thank the following who kindly responded-namely, Mr. Nisbet and Mr. Douglas in No. 569, page 169, and Mr. Nisbet for his able article, page 211, and in the following numbers Mr. Potts, Mr. Roberts, and Mr. Dodds.

If the system of keeping Grapes in bottles of water in rooms is to be of any value to the horticultural community it must be reduced to a safe practice, founded on natural laws, so that, when the Grapes are thoroughly ripe, and not till then, they may be all safely cut, and placed at once in the Grape-room in bottles of water, each containing a little charcoal, there to remain until required for use, be it in two, four, or six months, and this, too, without involving so much watchfulness as is usually considered necessary. Now, by the time a Vine has thoroughly ripened its fruit, its principal leaves are ripe also, and the support of the fruit in the shape of moisture, from this time at least, gradually diminishes until, when the leaves fall, very little moisture is received or required by the fruit; still the Vine continues to supply sufficient to maintain the berries and their footstalks in perfect condition for months after being ripe if properly treated by keeping them cool and dry. Any excess of moisture supplied to the berries at this time and onwards, either through the wood or air, is at the expense of the flavour and keeping properties of the Grapes, and on this nicety in the supply of moisture to the bunches when cut from the Vine and in a room, as above mentioned, hinges the whole cause of failure or success in keeping them perfect for any length of time.

The best practical information is very frequently gained through failures, and having failed, as already stated, I determined to institute a series of experiments in order to arrive at a just and safe mode of supplying such an amount of moisture to the bunches through the wood as would suffice to keep them perfect without the danger of supplying too much-in short, to follow nature as closely as possible; and this I have proved can be safely done, simply by half-charring the cut end of the branch upon which the bunch hangs before putting it into the bottle of water. By taking this precaution a great amount of watchfulness, care, and labour is saved. The half-charring the cut partially closes the pores of the wood, and only a limited quantity of water can pass to the fruit.

I made in the autumn of last year some alterations in

No. 631.-VOL. XXIV., NEW SERIES.

the Grape-room at Belton, added two extra ventilators at the lowest part of the room in the door and wall opposite, with slides, stopped the one previously in the floor, where I conceived moisture had gained access through the grating, and laid a flow and return 2-inch pipe on the floor round the room. Having done this I commenced the experiment intended, and which I have been requested by many gardeners to publish, but to do this would take up too much of your valuable space. However, it may be advisable to state a few failures by way of showing "breakers ahead." Circumstances enabled me to keep the Grapes hanging on the Vines a month longer than in 1871; therefore the first lot was cut on the 9th of December. I had either to cut them then or lose them through the wet continually dropping, in some cases running into the bunches from the roof, therefore only those bunches so circumstanced were cut at this time; those previously cut were for the purpose of experiment. The bunches were placed in the water at various depths, some scarcely touching it; these required much careful watching, some being short, some having too much water, and to keep them for a month or five weeks until they were required for use entailed too much labour in drawing them out and then putting them back into the water, cutting-out berries, &c. So practically this was a failure, although by constant attention they were fairly kept for this short time. Left hanging on the Vine they would all have disappeared in the four or five weeks. On the 14th of December twenty-five bunches were cut and put into the water, little more than touching it; three of these were weighed at the time, and proved to be 2 lbs. 10 ozs., 2 lbs., and 3 lbs. respectively. When reweighed on the 9th of January they had gained in weight, and by the 20th the largest bunch had gained a little over half an ounce, but there was no appearance of cracking or moulding, and for fear of this occurring, they were all taken out, and remained out of the water twentyfour hours. I then had cement mixed with hot water rubbed into the pores of the Vine wood, and some of it charred; after this all were returned to the water, and they kept well for the remainder of the time.

On the 18th of December another lot was cut; half of these had cement rubbed into the wood, and the other half had the cut-end of the shoot half charred put into the water. Three bunches were weighed, and their stems stuck deeply into large roots of Mangold. Three of the cemented bunches were weighed, and three of the half charred. In four or five weeks those stuck in the Mangolds were losing their footstalks, and in six weeks began to shrivel; they lost 14 oz. during the time. The three cemented bunches when cut from the Vine weighed in the aggregate 6 lbs. 10 ozs., and when weighed again on the 14th of January their weight remained the same; by February 14th they had lost three-quarters of an ounce, but a few berries had been cut out. The three bunches that were half-charred weighed in the aggregate 5 lbs., and had neither gained nor lost on the 14th of January, but by the 14th of February they had lost a little over a quarter of an ounce in the three bunches. This is,

I No. 1288.-VOL. XLIX., OLD SERIES.

perhaps, nearly what would have been the case had they remained on the Vines; and on the 14th of April Mr. Boulton, my successor at Belton, informed me these bunches were in every way in splendid condition both in footstalk and berry, and I am further informed that not a berry had been cut out of the bunches from the first. This I consider is conclusive as to the merits of half-charring the cut before insertion in the water.

On the 3rd of January another lot was cut and half-charred; these kept beautifully to the last, lost very few berries, and caused little trouble.

On the 11th of February another lot was cut, and in order to satisfy myself as to the capability of the bark to take up water the cut-ends of all those branches on which the bunches hung were quite sealed up with a composition of shellac and spirits of wine rubbed into the pores of the wood, when dry rubbed over again with the same composition, and when again dry the ends were put as deeply into the water as the length of the branch would allow. By the 25th the footstalks exhibited signs of distress, clearly showing that no water had passed through the bark. The sealed ends were at once cut off, and the bunches put into the water; they recovered in a couple of days, were then taken out and dried, half-charred, and re-inserted in the water. After this the Grapes kept perfectly as long as required, and I had no more trouble with them.

The last house of Grapes was cut on the 27th of February; the ends of all the shoots were half-charred, then put into the water irrespective of depth, as I had previously proved that water did not pass through the bark. These kept perfectly to the last without any further trouble, as, I believe, very few berries had to be taken out. In all cases, by keeping perfectly, I wish it to be understood that I mean the footstalks of the berries remained green and firm and the berries plump, retaining their bloom and flavour.

The varieties of Grapes kept as above at Belton were chiefly Muscat of Alexandria and Black Alicante, with Madresfield Court, White Tokay, and White Nice. Madresfield Court did not keep well after the middle of January. White Tokay kept well, as also did White Nice, although the last-named were large bunches, but when placed in the room their shoulders were tied up. The Muscats kept perfectly when charred or cemented; when not so treated the skin of some of the berries was discoloured, showing the effect of taking up too much water.

I consider the past has been an unfavourable season for keeping Grapes, owing to the unusually wet late autumn and winter, and the mildness of the latter. From the 9th of December to the 15th of February inclusive there were forty-nine days on which the thermometer indicated 40° or upwards, the highest being 53° on the 3rd of January. I ought to say in conclusion that the Grape room was kept thoroughly dry and as cool as the external temperature would allow. Plenty of air and light were given on all favourable occasions. The pipes were used only to dry the room, and for this purpose the heat was turned on during the early part of fine days, when plenty of air could be given at the same time. In all cases the heat was shut off by two o'clock in the afternoon, so that the pipes were cool by the time the room was closed. I had canvas pads stuffed with hay made to fit inside the windows and ventilators so as to be applied in a few minutes. In case of sharp frost the doors and windows were also protected by thick canvas outside, and by these means a considerable degree of frost could be kept out without having recourse to the pipes, which should be used only when other means fail. Mr. Nisbet says very truly the three evils to be guarded against are damp, frost, and artificial heat; and I will add a fourth-namely, too much water being taken up through the pores of the wood. It is quite unimportant whether the bottles are stoppered or not.-W. MOORE, late Gardener to Earl Brownlow.

NEW ROSES AT SOUTH KENSINGTONAURICULAS.

dorsed by Rose-growers generally. I do not think Lyonnais or Président Thiers worthy of the honours they received, and I do maintain that, although Etienne Levet was slightly defective, it ought to have supplanted one of them; and with all humility I would here say that it is just possible that the judgment of one who has lived among Roses may be quite as likely to be correct as the decision of a heterogeneous Committee, many of whom, perhaps, never grew a Rose, however celebrated they may be in other directions, and who decide by majorities whether a flower is to be certificated or not.

Mons. Claude Levet, alluded to by your correspondent, I had already so marked as a valuable Rose that I secured the bloom to have a drawing made of it for publication; and Mr. George Paul's foreman, whose opinion I should be as much inclined to take as that of anyone I know, says it is the best Rose of this year that he has seen.

A word or two as to the Auriculas on the 16th. If the show last season was the best seen in London for many years, one may without question say that the show this year was the poorest. I have grown Auriculas for thirty-five years, and never remember to have seen them so late as they are this season. In all my collection I could not get six fully open, and other growers were equally late, while as a rule plants, though healthy, are not throwing up strong trusses. It is one of those disappointments all growers of flowers must meet with, even although their theories may be good and their practice correct.-D., Deal.

CULVERKEYS.

THE popular name for Cowslips in this part of Kent (near Ashford) is Covekeys, the villagers never calling the Cowslips anything else, while the Oxlips they call Cowslips. It seems to me as near Culverkeys as any of the names mentioned in the Journal, especially as they have curious modes of pronouncing words, frequently leaving out letters entirely.—EDITH DOMBRAIN, Westwell Vicarage.

THE term Culverkeys is in general use among all the poorer classes of this neighbourhood, and is applied to the Cowslip (Primula veris), while the Oxlip (P. elatior) they term Cowslip. Culverkey wine is a much-admired beverage. Of the derivation of the word I can give no opinion.-E. D. SWAN, Hothfield Rectory, Ashford, Kent.

THE Culverkey is well known in Somersetshire, and applies to the Bluebell (Hyacinthus non-scriptus). In Oxfordshire and Essex the same flower is by some called Culvers. I trust this may help to clear-up the mystery.—A GARDENER, Balsall Heath, Birmingham.

[So far is our "GARDENER" correspondent, and our two manse correspondents from clearing-up the mystery, that they have made it more mysterious. If, in Kent, Cowslips are called Culverkeys, then they are not the flowers that are alluded to in the verses of Dennys in 1612, for he distinguishes them especially as being blue," azor (azure) Culverkayes." Walton expressly distinguishes them, for he says, "Looking down the meadows I could see a girl cropping Culverkeys and Cowslips to make garlands." If, too, the Cowslip, Hyacinth nonscriptus, and Meadow Orchis, are in various localities known as "Culverkeys," then it would seem that our country-folk apply the name to any flower having a cluster of flowers on the top of a common stalk. Yet we do not swerve from our conclusion that the name is derived from the ancient British, or Welsh, and that the name in that language was appropriated exclusively to the Meadow Orchis.-EDS.]

PRINCE ALBERT PINE APPLE.

MANY thanks to Mr. J. Foden for his descriptive explanation of the Black Prince and King Alfred Pine Apples. Anything that has a tendency to popularise a variety of Pine Apple is perused with interest. According to the account at page 315, I am of opinion that Prince Albert remains distinct, and has no connection whatever with Black Prince and King Alfred-the two creditable productions of the deceased Mr.

The great peculiarity or characteristic of Foden's Black Prince, throwing-up its long fruiting stem without any appearance of fruit for a long time, never occurs with the variety which has so long retained the unquestioned name of Prince Albert. I have a strong aversion, for obvious reasons, to the naked

stem and invariable minimum produce of the pedestal type. Including Prince Albert, the finest fruits in every respect are produced by plants which at once show a vigorous formation, and remain at a medium elevation from the socket. The purple-tinted leaves of King Alfred I regard as no reliable distinction. All varieties when exposed to sun and light are of the same hue. It is to be regretted that Mr. Wright's statements at page 218 are not corroborated by Mr. J. Foden. Mr. Wright tell us, in the first place, that it is Prince Alfred, and not Prince Albert, and refers to Mr. J. Foden for confirmation of this, when Mr. J. Foden tell us, in the first place, that he is not aware that there ever was a Pine Apple called Prince Albert or Prince Alfred. Such being the case, how can he agree with me that these two are the same, and they are only Foden's Black Prince? It is quite possible there may be a Pine in cultivation which Mr. J. Foden has never seen. I may inform him that there are few of the principal Pine-growing places in England or Scotland but possesses a variety named Prince Albert.-J. M. C.

DWARF HARDY PLANTS SUITABLE AS EDGINGS TO YOUNG SPECIMEN TREES.-No. 2. Oxalis corniculata rubra.-This is well adapted for edging purposes, for although the plant dies down a considerable portion of the year, its foliage is good all the summer months. It is hardy, and accomodating enough for all purposes. Oxalis Bowei I have never been able to make much of, but that, perhaps, may have been from want of perseverance rather than any defect in the plant, as when well grown it makes a lovely Prunella optima.-A pretty purple-flowering dwarf plant of compact habit, and strongly to be recommended. It is also accommodating in every sense of the word, for although not a gross grower, it seems to thrive equally well in sun or shade, in moist or dry situations, while its flowers are very pretty. Pansies. In general I have not been able to flower these well. Our hot summers seem to punish them so severely that I cannot recommend them for duty in a dry situation; but in a different situation most likely they would bloom well.

bed.

Pink. Having alluded to this under the head Dianthus, nothing more need be said, only that on calcareous soils, where it thrives so well, it cannot be planted too extensively, for both the character of flower and habit of the plant alike fit it for the front place in a class of this kind.

Phlox verna and others.-This dwarf species with deep rose-coloured blossoms makes a nice broad margin, and is admirably suited for covering ground about a tree not branched to the ground, as it is a spreading plant, and makes an excellent carpet, more especially on a soil approaching to peat. There are several varieties of it, but none better than that which has flowers of a deep rosy-purple colour. Another species, P. setacea or P. subulata, is widely different, but dwarf, and equally eligible. With it I have never been able to succeed well, nor have I managed P. prostrata well enough to be able to recommend it. The tall kinds, of course, are not suitable for our present purpose.

Pulmonaria officinalis variegata.-The blotching of the foliage of this plant equals that of many of our exotic Begonias, and looks well all the winter; the plant is therefore of service for winter decoration. It is of rather strong growth, and perhaps occupies more room when full-grown than can often be allowed, but being accommodating, it may be planted where other subjects will not grow.

Primroses.-I enter upon these with some misgivings, for the whole family are such favourites that I fear I may be led too far in my commendations; moreover, they offer much variety, and their flowering is spread over a great number of months. Who is there, in traversing the shady lanes of a rural district in March or April, but must admire the floral gems that stud the hedgebanks? and I am not sure that any of the Primroses of our gardens are in reality more beautiful than the wild one. At the same time our garden varieties have also their especial claims to notice.

Before mentioning two or three of the most prominent varieties I may say that the Primrose in general likes a somewhat moist situation, and one partially shaded in summer is an advantage. This, I believe, holds good of all the family, the Auricula, perhaps, excepted. We also find that division of the plants every second or third year is advantageous. Single robust-growing varieties need division oftener than the slowergrowing double kinds, and as this mode of propagation is the

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only certain way of insuring the continuance of the exact varieties, it is well to practise it as early in the spring as convenient. Necessity has often compelled us to divide the plants when they were in full bloom, which is not, perhaps, the best time, but the plant is very accommodating in that way. Where a rather shady piece of ground not too dry can be had as a reserve or nursery, this plant may be extensively grown for early spring gardening, and it can be transplanted with greater ease than most things. It is also easily raised from seed, which is often self-sown in unpromising places, and new varieties are sometimes met with in such spots. A friend of mine found a double yellow variety in a wood a long way from any garden or cultivated ground, and brown and dark-coloured varieties are not uncommon. If gardeners would take the trouble to now and then plant a crimson or magenta-flowered plant here and there amongst the wild Primroses, most likely fresh cross-breds would be produced. I have often done this, and hope to see some of the cross-breds by-and-by. I may add that the crossing of the garden varieties certainly gives us kinds partaking partly of the Polyanthus and Cowslip, in conjunction with the Primrose, for it is not uncommon to find plants having both single-flowering stems and also well-formed umbels as in the Polyanthus, while the pendulous habit of the Cowslip is also represented. Probably further varieties will be produced when the new Japanese Primrose shall have become more plentiful; but as regards colour, our home kinds give us all the colours that we have from the east; nevertheless, there is no doubt an important future before this plant, and with such other species as P. cortusoides amœna and P. erosa denticulata there is ample scope for hybridisation. Single White Primrose.—I believe I have on more than one occasion expressed an opinion that this is the most useful of the family, coming into flower so much earlier than all others. We have frequently had a good display of this variety in November, long before the wild Primrose or the other kinds showed any signs of flowering. Its flowers are of a clear white, too, and the plant is a most abundant bloomer. Some we have in bloom at the time I write have done duty for quite five months. I think the season we had them in most abundance in autumn was 1871. A spurious variety of this kind appears to be more prevalent than the true early-flowering one; and I also find that of seedlings some of them come with a creamy white tint instead of the pure colour, thus showing a tendency to revert to the wild form. When once a stock of it is obtained it is best to propagate it by division of the roots; and it is well not to be in too great a hurry in doing this, as small plants rarely attain sufficient size in one year to allow of their being divided with so much advantage as when left for two years where they are growing. This remark, of course, holds good of all kinds alike.

Single Mauve Primrose.-This, like the last, is a very free bloomer, but is not by any means so early a bloomer, neither does it look so well in the distance as the white. There are several tints of this colour obtainable by seed, some of them being much brighter than the original, and approaching to magenta.

Single Crimson Primrose.-A variety of this I have had some years occasionally covered with umbelled flowers like the Polyanthus, while a great number of the flowers are on single stems. It is of a pretty clear colour, and well deserving of notice, more especially if hybridising be attempted, for it is likely to impart a useful colour to the progeny.

Single Yellow of a deeper tint than the wild Primrose.-I have not been able to make much of this, and therefore cannot say anything of it; only if it could be made to grow as freely as the first two named it would be an acquisition, as its flowers are of a fine golden colour, but I fear it is miffy.

Single Primroses of Other Tints.-As there is no limit to the colours that possibly may be obtained by seed, I need only say that promising seedlings with violet, crimson, magenta, and other coloured flowers are now and then met with, with a bluish-tinted lilac, the latter, no doubt, destined to be the parent of a better class of blues. Mr. Divers, gardener at Wierton, near Maidstone, has many promising seedlings, and has for years practised fertilising this family with the Polyanthus, Cowslip, and wild Primrose, and his seedlings at flowering time are interesting, and doubtless will hereafter be found valuable.

Oxlip or Hose-in-Hose Primrose.-I am only acquainted with the yellow form of this, and it is exceedingly handsome, the flower-stems being as long and as robust as the strongestgrowing Polyanthus, and the distinction between the two flow

way as the Californian species, only not so flat. It turns brown in summer, but I do not think this any disadvantage, and it is perfectly hardy.

S. arachnoideum.-Somewhat like the last, only apparently enveloped in a sort of cobweb. It is of slower growth, and possibly not quite so hardy, but I have not had much experience of it.

S. Wulfiana. This, like the Californian Houseleek, has a thick fleshy leaf, but is greener, and more like the common Houseleek.

S. Bollii is in the way of S. globiferum, but smaller, as are also S. anomatum and S. Beanii, but they seem to be perfectly hardy. I fear, however, that there is some confusion in the name of this plant, but S. Bollii is unquestionably good, and with me, at least, the easiest of culture.

Thymus micans.-A very dwarf hardy plant, rather of a bronze hue, neat and compact, with a slight odour.

Veronicas.-A variegated form of one of the hardy herbaceous kinds is good, and makes a neat low edging. The flowers that are produced, though upwards of a foot high, are excusable, as when they are removed the plant is dwarf and compact.

Viola cornuta.-A permanent edging is just the place for this plant, for, with all its merits, it is not adapted for the flower-beds, where it has to be removed every year. It is too well known to require comment here.

Viola tricolor.-A hardy variety of the common Pansy, of a bright yellow, has stood one or two summers with me, as did also a pale blue some years ago. I am not in love with either of them, but for variety they may be tried.

Viola odorata. The double Russian or Neapolitan Violet may be tried, as may also the single kind.

Besides the above many other plants are occasionally used. With Snowdrops, for instance, we have several beds edged, as well as one or two with Lily of the Valley. Crocuses do not succeed well with us, neither does the hardy Cyclamen, but that is no reason why they should not thrive elsewhere. The object aimed at is to edge round each tree or shrub with a neat compact plant that will in most cases look well all the year round, or, if it do not do so, the plant ought to possess more than ordinary merit at blooming time. I by no means intend to imply that the plants noticed are the only ones adapted for the purpose; most likely there are many others also good, which only want trying to bring them out. Choice florists' flowers are not needed in this case; they are too often of uneven growth, and not so accommodating as to site as others of a less refined character. Plants that have a neat appearance from January 1st to December 31st are infinitely better than objects which are only gay for a short time in summer.-J. ROBSON.

PAINTING OF ORCHARD-HOUSE TREES. THIS is a much better plan than simply brushing the trees over with a composition of lime, &c., the chief object of which is to exclude the air, and thus destroy animal life, also, probably, preserving the eggs of insects from hatching, as is the case in the preservation of eggs in limewater. The mixture of some vegetable oil, with something to give it body, seems a good idea, and as to killing the trees there is no fear. One of my under-gardeners used a mineral oil to kill the brown scale on an orange tree, the effect of which was to cause nearly all the leaves to fall off, though it answered well when confined to the older bark. The oil paint recommended by Mr. Bréhaut (an old schoolfellow of mine more than forty years since) would have had the same good, without the bad effect. We use here creosote to keep hares and rabbits from gnawing the bark of fruit trees, and there is no injury to the bark. I have just cut off a piece of the bark of an Apple tree thus painted, and find it has not penetrated further than the thickness of paper; it was applied the winter before last. The trees are very healthy, and the creosote still protects them; probably winter is the best time for applying it.

As the quintescence of a lady's letter is often contained in the postscript, so is the venom contained in the tail of Mr. Bréhaut's article. Two years are hardly too long a time for a tree to recover itself after having been overcropped. The only thing to be said in favour of the system is that "a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush," but this must depend upon the size and quality of the bird.-OBserver.

I FORWARD my experience in painting trees with oil, such as

is used on cart harness, which sets like varnish. I have about a dozen Apple trees which had been nearly killed by the woolly aphis. I tried other things, which proved useless, and this autumn, after pruning, I painted every shoot. It has apparently destroyed the aphis. We have had all sorts of weather this last few nights-wet in the early part, and 3° of frost in the morning. This is rare here, as I believe we are a little higher than Wolverhampton, and we are near to the highest tableland in England, so I am told.-A NOVICE, Wolverhampton.

THE WEATHER.

ACCUSTOMED as we are to regard east wind as an evil, yet the very frequent prevalence of wind from that quarter and from the north during the past month, by its retarding influence upon vegetation, will doubtless prove a real benefit. The present unkindly aspect of the weather here (in MidSussex) is causing considerable anxiety, especially in regard to fruit prospects. A sharp frost set in on the evening of Wednesday, April 23rd, and continued to increase in intensity during the night, reaching its maximum of 7° at 3 A.M., the thermometer then standing at 25°. Frequent showers of snow and sleet fell during Thursday, followed by a slight frost at night; on Friday the snowstorms became heavier, and everything at all exposed was encrusted with the snow which fell during the afternoon, and so cold had the surface of the soil become that the snow lay till Saturday morning, and the thermometer fell to 23°.

Notwithstanding this untimely severity, the fruit trees appear to have sustained very little damage; both on Wednesday and Friday night the shoots of Peach and Nectarine trees having the shelter of a wide coping were stiffened with frost, yet the fruit escaped harm; the fully-expanded blossom of Pears, Cherries, and Plums is destroyed, but that which was only partially open escaped unscathed, with the exception of a slight browning of the petals. Bush fruits are also unharmed. The young foliage of many Kalmias and hardy Azaleas is destroyed, I conclude this was caused by the frostladen wind, from the fact of some other plants of both genera, that were in some measure screened by high trees from the wind's full force, being unhurt.

A striking instance of the value of wall-shelter is evinced in a flourishing young plant of Akebia quinata; some of its shoots projecting a few inches from the wall are cut off, while all those that are quite close to it have sustained no harm.— EDWARD LUCKHURST.

TREATMENT OF YOUNG VINES.

I WISH your advice as to the proper treatment for a vinery started at the end of March, newly planted with eight Black Hamburgh Vines. This is their first year, and I intend that they shall run wild this season-that is, to allow eight or ten canes to run from each Vine. I do not intend to fruit them till the year after next. I want to know whether it is better to give plenty of air on hot days, or the reverse. I take care to keep the house moist, and wet all the paths, especially in hot weather. I am afraid of giving too much air lest the Vines should not grow fast enough, still I wish to adopt that treatment which is the best. The house is a very fine one, south aspect, quite new, about 25 by 15 feet. The Vines are planted inside the house in a border prepared for the purpose. Some of them have already made shoots about a foot in length. I shall be glad if you will say whether Vines should be kept very dry during their blooming season, and also whether you would advise a little heat at night during the time they are in bloom in order to get them through their bloom quickly. I should be glad if you will say if 80° Far. is too hot for sun heat at midday.-O. PERCIVAL.

[Although we advocate allowing young Vines to ramble rather freely with two or three canes the first year after planting, yet we are of opinion that eight or ten are too many by one-half or more, and of these there will, doubtless, be one shoot stronger than the rest. This should be trained in its proper position, allowing the others to ramble at will, providing, however, against injury of any kind. Those shoots that are not required should not be pulled or cut off, but stopped by pinchingoff their tips. It is proper to keep the house moist and the Vines syringed in hot weather, but not so much so in cold sunless weather, otherwise mildew will make its appearance. At such times gentle fire heat is almost a necessity.

In rearing a house of Vines the aim with us would be to