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A. CLOWESII.-A robust plant, producing large Tulip-shaped flowers, which are rich deep yellow in colour; its perfume somewhat resembles that of a chemist's shop, and is not agreeable to some constitutions. The flower is very showy and handsome, coming in about May and June. Native of Columbia.

A. UNIFLORA SUPERBA.-A less robust-growing plant than the previously-named kind. The flowers are white, dotted on the inside of the sepals and petals with chocolate brown. It blooms in May and June. Native of Columbia.

BARKERIA.

The species of this genus are all extremely handsome when in bloom, and as several of them produce their elegant flowers during autumn and winter, they become doubly valuable. Pot

culture is not suitable or congenial to Barkerias, they should therefore be grown upon blocks; but as they do not adhere very firmly to these, perhaps the very best contrivance for them is a rough cork basket. The plants should be made fast with copper wire, and a little live sphagnum used amongst the roots; but very little moss or peat is necessary, as the roots, which are thick and fleshy, usually grow straight out into the air. During the season of rest the plants lose their leaves, and at this time amateurs generally dry the life out of them; this, however, is wrong treatment, as the blocks or baskets should be occasionally syringed, even when the plants are dormant, otherwise the following season's growth will be very weak and the flowers somewhat microscopical. B. SKINNERI.-No more charming object for a Christmas bouquet could be wished for than a few spikes of this plant,

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"HEARTS of Oak are our ships, hearts of Oak are our men," is still a truism. Iron-clads are a sprinkling, but the multitude of our ships are still of the Oak; and long may it be so, although the rhythm would be as good and as true-"Forms of iron are our ships, hearts of iron are our men." This, however, is only an "aside" utterance, for on the present occasion we purpose confining our notes to the beauty and utility of the British Oak; we have no purpose in our pen to touch upon any other Oak, from that at Mamre to the Chinese Oak discovered in 1850. The beauty of the British Oak, Quercus Robur, is fully felt by all who have a just appreciation of tree form and forest scenery. "It is confessedly," says Gilpin,

"both the most picturesque tree in itself, and the most accommodating in composition. It is suited to the grandest, and may with propriety be introduced into the most pastoral. It adds new dignity to the ruined tower and gothic arch by stretching its wild moss-grown branches athwart their ivied walls-it gives them a kind of majesty; at the same time its propriety is still preserved if it throws its arms over the brook. Milton introduces it happily even in the lowest scene'Hard-by, a cottage chimney smokes From between two aged Oaks.'

The point of picturesque perfection is when a tree has foliage enough to form a mass, and yet not so much as to hide the

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cumference of the tree's stem 2 feet from the ground, 22 feet 9 inches; 12 feet from the ground, 20 feet 6 inches; 22 feet from the ground, 16 feet 6 inches; 32 feet from the ground, 15 feet; 48 feet from the ground, 9 feet.

Next, regarding the usefulness of the Oak as an ornamental tree, we must always have regard to the soil we have to plant, and the rate at which a tree grows. On these circumstances our latest and practically good authority is Mr. Brown, who, in his volume, "The Forester," says:-"The rate of growth and quality of Oak timber, like those of all other trees, depend very much upon the nature of the soil and situation upon which it is grown; and the result of my observations is that the best-grown Oak trees are to be found on a heavy deep clay soil, or heavy loam of a deep description, into which the roots can get well down without any check from a change in the character of the subsoil. On a light loam I have seen good timber of Q. pedunculata produced. On this description of land I have seen trees from 12 to 18 feet in circumference of stem; but under these circumstances as to soil, the trees are generally found short of stem and large-headed in proportion; while trees of the same circumference of stem, and grown on deep heavy land, carry their stems very much higher, and therefore form more proportionate and ornamental trees. On high-lying and exposed situations the Oak will grow, and even become timber of useful size, although the soil be but poor; but to produce Oak of the best description, whether as to the dimensions of the tree or quality of its timber, it must be planted on rather a low-lying part, and on a heavy or loamy soil." The rate of increase in the diameter of the stem is recorded by Mr. Brown as follows:

branches. One of the great ornaments of a tree is its ramifications, which ought to appear here and there under the foliage even when the tree is in full leaf." Strutt adds, "Beauty united with strength characterises all its parts. The leaves, elegant in their outline, are strongly ribbed, and firmly attached to the spray, which, although thin and excursive, is yet bold and determined in its angles; whilst the abrupt and tortuous irregularity of its massive branches admirably contrasts with the general richness and density of its clustered foliage. Even as a sapling, in its slender gracefulness it exhibits sufficient firmness and indications of vigour to predicate the future monarch of the wood, a state, indeed, which it is slow to assume, but which it retains through many ages; and when at length it is brought to acknowledge the influence of time, and becomes bald with dry antiquity,' no other production of the forest can be admitted as its rival in majestic and venerable decay. The general form of the Oak is expansive, luxuriant, and spreading. Its character, both with respect to its whole and to its larger masses of foliage, is best expressed by the pencil in bold and roundish lines, whether as single trees, as groups, or as forming the line of a distant forest." "The genuine bark of an Oak," says Gilpin, "is of an ash colour, though it is difficult to distinguish any part of it from the mosses that overspread it, for no Oak, I suppose, was ever without a greater or less proportion of these picturesque appendages. The lower parts, about the roots, are often possessed by that green velvet moss, which, in a still greater degree, commonly occupies the bole of the Beech, though the beauty and brilliancy of it lose much when in decay. As the trunk rises you see the brimstone colour taking possession in patches. Of this there are two principal kinds-a smooth sort, which spreads like a scurf over the bark; and a rough sort, which hangs in little rich knots and fringes. I call it a brimstone hue by way of general distinction, but it sometimes inclines to an olive, and sometimes to a light green. Intermixed with these mosses you often find a species almost perfectly white. Before I was acquainted with it, I have sometimes thought the tree whitewashed. Here and there a touch of it gives a lustre to the trunk, and has its effect; yet, on the whole, it is a nuisance; for, as it generally begins to thrive when the other mosses begin to wither (as if the decaying bark were its proper nutriment), it is rarely accompanied with any of the more beautiful species of its kind, and, when thus unsupported, it always disgusts. This white moss, by the way, is esteemed a certain mark of age, and, when it prevails in any degree, is a clear indication that the vigour of the tree is declining. We find, also, another species of moss of a dark brown colour, inclining nearly to black, another of an ashy colour, and another of a dingy yellow. We may observe, also, touches of red, and sometimes, but rarely, a bright yellow, which is like a gleam of sunshine; and in many trees you will see one species growing upon another, the knotted brimstonecoloured fringe clinging to a lighter species, or the black soften-years of age, 40 feet high; at forty years of age, 48 feet high; ing into red. All these excrescences, under whatever name distinguished, add a great richness to trees; and when they are blended harmoniously, as is generally the case, the rough and furrowed trunk of an old Oak adorned with these pleasing appendages is an object which will long detain the picturesque eye."

"The Great Oak of Panshanger" is characterised by all the attractions thus described, and therefore, as well as for its grandeur of form, size, and age, we have selected it as a model specimen of our national tree. Oaks must have been abundant in this manor, even in the days of William the Conqueror, for Domesday Book records that its woods afforded "pannage for forty hogs," and various records notice the production of oaken timber on other parts of the valley, through which flows the river Mimeram. On the north-east bank stands "The Great Panshanger Oak." In 1719 this tree was measured, and found to contain 315 cubic feet of timber. In 1804 it was again measured, and then contained 796 cubic feet, including those branches which were sufficiently large to be considered timber. It was called "the Great Oak" in 1709, and when Arthur Young measured it in 1804 it was 17 feet in circumference at 5 feet from the ground; he adds, "It is one of the finest Oaks which I have seen, though only 12 feet to the first bough." Our portrait is of the tree when it was in the meridian of its vigour, but Mr. Ruffett, the gardener at Panshanger, informs us that "the top branches are now decaying, although the lower part appears as sound as any young growing tree." Mr. Ruffett adds that the extreme height is between 65 and 70 feet; extent of branches from stem of tree, 48 feet; cir

AGES OF TREES.

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For ornamental planting it is of more importance to know the rate of growth in height, and on this point Mr. Brown has obligingly written to us as follows:-"On the average, and on a favourable soil and site, Oaks at ten years of age will stand 15 feet high; at twenty years of age, 28 feet high; at thirty at fifty years of age, 55 feet high; at sixty years of age, 62 feet high; at seventy years of age, 66 feet high; at eighty years of age, 70 feet high; at ninety years of age, 73 feet high; at a hundred years of age, 75 feet high. You may safely publish these heights as the average of the Oak at the ages stated, for they are from actual measurements taken by myself at various times, and intended to be used in the next edition of my book."

The other uses of the Oak are thus epitomised by Dr. Hogg in his "Vegetable Kingdom:"-" The wood of the Oak is harder and more solid than that of any other European timber tree, and, as is well known, is largely employed in shipbuilding, carpentry, waggon work, cabinet-making, mill work, and coopering. The bark is of great utility, as furnishing in greatest abundance the article known as tan for tanning hides and skins, and this property is owing to the presence of a great quantity of tannic acid; it also contains a peculiar bitter principle, known by the name of quercin; after the bark has been used in the tanyard it is employed for making hotbeds in forcing houses. Acorns, or the fruit of the Oak, are highly nutritious to various animals, but particularly to hogs, which rapidly fatten on them; and it has been observed that those are best for the purpose that have been washed and dried by exposure to the air. In Turkey the acorns of several sorts of Oak are buried in the ground, in the same way as cacao beans are, to deprive them of their bitterness; they are then dried, washed, and reduced to powder with sugar and aromatics; the substance thus formed is called palamonte, and the food that is prepared from it is called racahout, and is used in the

seraglios to fatten and keep up the embonpoint of the sultanas. In some parts of Europe acorns are said to be converted into bread. By analysis they have been found to contain in 1000 parts, fixed oil, 43; resin, 52; gum, 64; tannin, 90; bitter extractive, 52; starch, 385; lignin, 319; and traces of potash, lime, alumina, and some earthy salts; by which it will be seen that they contain more than a third of nutritive matter, and that consequently they are capable of being taken as food, particularly when they have been deprived of their resinous and extractive matters. In Italy the oil is extracted and applied to burning in lamps, but it does not appear that much attention has been given to this branch of industry. It is stated by Dr. Barras that he found the infusion of roasted acorns, sweetened with sugar, of great advantage in promoting digestion, if taken in the same way as coffee, after meals; and that he has seen dyspepsia, and even disordered stomach, oured by the use of them; the acorns and their cups have been found useful as an astringent in mucous diarrhoea."

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

IN mild weather the Asparagus in frames or pits should have abundance of air after the shoots have made their appearance. Prepare ground for permanent beds if the soil works well. Plenty of good rotten stable manure should be used. A little seed of Early Horn Carrots may be sown on a sheltered warm border when the soil is dry and works freely. Those in frames should be thinned when an inch or two high. The greatest attention should be paid to the state of the Cucumber bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out. The heatstick should be examined daily. Prepare the ground for planting Horseradish. Dig two spits deep if the soil will admit of doing so. No manure should be dug-in unless the ground is very poor. Jerusalem Artichokes may be planted. Plant the Onions of last year which begin to grow; they will be very useful when there is a scarcity of sound ones. Plant Underground Onions if not done in the autumn. Weed and clean the autumn crop. A good sowing of Parsley should be made as soon as the ground is in a fit state to receive the seed. Make a sowing of Knight's Dwarf Green Marrow Peas; at the same time some other approved sorts should be sown to keep up a succession. Two or three crops of those sorts which come in for use quickly must be sown, and will be ready before the Marrows. If any Potatoes were placed in a forcing house a fortnight since, as recommended, they will now be ready to plant out: a very moderate heat will be sufficient. Plant some on a warm sheltered border if the weather be mild and favourable. A few rows of Spinach may be sown between the early Peas if there is a scarcity of autumn-sown; if not, defer sowing a week or a fortnight longer. Sow some seed of the Early Dutch Turnip on a slight hotbed; or where the soil is light and dry, a sowing may be made on a warm border. See to the due preparation of ground for crops in general, but beware of carrying on operations when the soil is in a wet state. Better be a fortnight too late with any given crop.

FRUIT GARDEN.

Where there are inferior sorts of Apples and Pears, or too many of one sort, prepare scions of superior varieties for grafting, and keep them till wanted in a cool situation.

FLOWER GARDEN.

As soon as the ground is a little dried after the frost and snow, it will be a good plan to have all the vacant beds in the flower garden forked over, so as to get the soil properly pulverised prior to planting-out the autumn-sown annuals. Preparation must also be made for a general sowing of the more hardy kinds, such as Larkspurs, Godetias, Clarkias, Nemophilas, &c., which should be made the first day the ground is sufficiently dry to admit of sowing them. Proceed with the pruning of shrubs and common Roses, but leave the more tender kinds until you are sure they will not be injured by frost. The most tender of the Chinese varieties that were covered with leaves in autumn are in excellent condition. See that the plants in the reserve garden are not thrown out of the ground by the late frost. If they are loose, fasten them. Proceed with planting-out biennials as soon as the ground is in a fit state, and prepare a little ground in a warm corner for sowing Stocks and some of the best of the annuals for transplanting. As a matter of course, all floricultural calendars must to a certain extent be acted on only as the weather is favourable for the operations there detailed as necessary. During spring and summer the experienced florist finds it comparatively easy to point out the previous week what is requisite to be done the ensuing one, but at this uncertain season we must be guided by circumstances. Whilst writing, the frost and snow appear to be rapidly disappearing; it will therefore cause the florist to be on the alert. If the weather continue mild draw the lights completely off the Auricula frames during the day. Examine the plants minutely, and see the soil is going

on well. Should any mild rain fall during the week they wili be benefited by a good sprinkling in the middle of the day. When the lights are drawn on tilt them, so that the grass may become as dry as possible before night. These observations will apply to Carnations, and carefully remove all spotted or diseased leaves. Still cover Tulips with sand as they appear. Should ately be planted. Strike Dahlia cuttings in moist heat as they the beds get sufficiently dry, the Ranunculuses should immediget long enough. As before observed, see that all planting is completed forthwith. Improve as much as possible outlines of every kind. Plant fresh masses or groups where necessary, and introduce specimen plants where fitting opportunities offer. Much mischief is done by planting single specimens in recesses; these should be carefully preserved, as a general rule, to give deep shadows and to throw the prominent features into bold

relief.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

various sorts of soil ready for a future season. Loam, peat, and Collect at the proper season for doing so a goodly store of the vegetable mould should be stacked a year at least in the compostyard before being used for potting. I have seen plants greatly injured by being potted in fresh-cut soil. The conservatory should now be full of interest, and ought, where much attention is paid to flowers, to be quite as gay as at any other period of the year. Camellias done blooming should, if possible, be removed to some warm house where a moist atmosphere and a temperature averaging 65° will induce them to produce wood freely, shading them, should the weather become bright, for a few hours in the middle of the day; under such treatment the leaves get well developed, large, and healthy. The plants may also be watered occasionally with weak liquid manure. Climbers should now have a thorough dressing, cutting away all weak and decayed wood, and shortening where necessary to furnish back wood previous to the growing season. The advantage of increased solar light and heat will be rendered apparent by the increased brilliancy of colour in the flowers and the depth of verdure in the leaves, provided a judicious admission of air and a just proportion of other essentials be continued. The display of flowering plants in the conservatory may receive additions from various quarters. The stove will afford the beautiful Euphorbia jacquiniæflora, which may be removed without injury; the pits should long afford a supply of Cinerarias; the Heath house, too, may contribute. Fragrance is a quality always sought for in flowers; the most striking are too often deficient in that recommendation. In effecting an arrangement this must not be forgotten: however humble in appearance, the modest Mignonette will always be valued for its delicious fragrance. Possibly water will be required more frequently, but still administer it with care. Remedy defects in drainage in long-potted plants. Shift Calceolarias; repress green fly. A temperature varying between 50° and 60° in bright weather will easily be sustained.

PITS AND FRAMES.

The plants they contain should now be worked over; remove the moss that may have accumulated on the surface of the soil in the pots; draw the lights off every mild day to dry the plants. Begin, if not already done, propagating summer-flowering plants, such as Verbenas, Salvias, &c., that will afford cuttings.-W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK.

THE Comparative highness of the barometer on the evening of the 1st inst., when we last wrote, did not lead us to expect such a fall of snow on the following days. Although that has been much lessened, still the snow remains with us, and the slight frosts of the morning, with easterly and northerly winds, prevent its total disappearance. This has to some extent put a stop to active employment on many kinds of out-door work. The snow lying on the ground was of great advantage to many crops in the coldest night we have yet had-crops made rather tender by the previous dull, warm, moist weather. Many subjects also under glass received the benefit of the snow covering where there was no artificial heat. For instance, Calceolarias have had a snow covering over them for a week, and will, probably, not be uncovered until all the snow is gone. Some Czar Violets we uncovered to-day, after they had been covered with glass and snow for eight days, and the blooms were as sweet and nice as if the sun had played on them for hours yesterday.

Covering from Frost.-Cauliflowers under hand-lights have had a sprinkling of litter over them all the week. What would have been the use of taking away the litter with its sprinkling of snow, when for the week there was scarcely a gleam of sunshine? The only thing to be cared for in this continuous covering is to be sure that the plants are in such a safe but low temperature that there shall be no stimulus presented to them to grow and elongate.

We had acted on this principle for years before we saw it advocated by our late clear-headed practical coadjutor Mr.

Errington. We have seen men employed whole days in uncovering cold pits to give them a little light in cold, frosty, dull weather in midwinter, and then begin to cover up again as soon as they were uncovered. If the plants were safe, and at a low temperature, the daily work of uncovering might have been saved. When there is only a little litter it may be of importance to shake it up instead of removing it, as every shaking-up would present a new line of radiation, and as often as that line was broken, frost and heat alike would have to begin their efforts anew. When we have a covering of snow we have so long regarded it as one of the best we could have, that in the case of cold pits and frames we are always loth to remove it, more especially as it is hardly possible to replace it. But for this consideration we might have swept off ours in the middle of the week. A few inches of snow will keep out a keen frost. The looser the snow is, the more effectual it will be. When from sun or a shower the surface has been solidified, it becomes then a better conductor of heat and cold, and we have often settled that matter and brought it back to its normal state by breaking the firm surface with the teeth of a rake. A great many of these homely matters have been lost sight of in gardening, because all accelerating is so easily done by hot-water pipes; but if hot water is to be obtained from coal at from 45s. to 50s. per ton, even proprietors far from poor may come to see the necessity of getting as much as they can without the aid of coal heat at such an enormous price.

part of the pathway, no flue or mode of heating thus presenting itself, whilst the warmed pathway is very agreeable in cold weather. In a house of considerable size, or even houses to be heated by hot water, and where in these dear coal days it is desirable to make as much of the heat from the fire as possible, then a flue should proceed through the house, or make turns in the back wall, before going directly from the boiler up the chimney, with nothing to keep the heat from wasting except a damper. We thus had a large conservatory heated when coals had to be carted fourteen or sixteen miles, and the flue was almost as useful as the hot water.

In the case of flues alone, it is as well if there be no dips from the furnace to the chimney, as the more and deeper the dips, under paths, &c., the more height will be required for the chimney. But failures in heating, and smoky and too-muchheated stokeholes, do not proceed so much from such a cause as from inattention to two or three simple matters. First, make sure that the iron bars of your furnace are from 18 to 24 inches-30 inches if you can go down conveniently-below the level of the bottom of the flue. Secondly, we have no objection to a fair length of a furnace, but do not have much of a dead rest, say not more than 6 or 8 inches, at the farther end; the grating bars of the furnace going pretty well up to the extreme end of the furnace. Thirdly, what rest you have should be in the shape of a stout iron plate, half an inch thick, and from 8 to 12 inches in length, close to the furnace door. From want of attention to these matters there is often a want of draught, suffocating back smoke in the stokehole, a red burning heat at the furnace door, and a much higher temperature in the stokehole than could by any means be got in the house. In a number of cases, of nice though small houses, that have within a few years come under our notice, the evils could chiefly be traced to the desire of saving in these cheap days, so as to dispense with the dumb iron plate inside the furnace door. The cheapframework and furnace door being burned by their closeness to furnace bars. We have seen the furnace doors gleaming red with but little heat in the flue, as the cold fuel on the long rest at the farther end arrested free draught, and sent the heat and smoke back to the stokehole. Let the rest be at the furnace door, and the fresh fuel put next the door will be gradually heated; and the hottest fuel, being beneath the bars at the farther end, there will be no back smoke, and little smoke at all, for that will be burned up. In many cases where such changes have been made, we are assured that now all goes right, and that more heat is obtained in the house with half the quantity of fuel. People should act as if they wished to heat their house and not the stokehole. The great evil of having many boilers is, that unless the firing and the damper are carefully applied, much heat goes up the chimney to warm the general atmosphere.

Cleaning Stone Pathways.-Besides the matters referred to last week, we have expended much labour in scrubbing and cleaning the stone flooring in plant-corridors and conservatories. The greater the heat, and the more the moisture used, the more likely the stones to be encrusted with green. In small places the cleaning is often left to the housemaids. In many cases the cleaning is not cleaning at all,but a daubing-over with a layer of whiting, made regular with cloth and brush, which does not look so much amiss until it is damped, or a lady with a long-ness was thoroughly neutralised in some of the cases by the skirted black dress passes along and gets the dress encrusted with the whiting. There are two things here we have no faith in. First, the daubing-up of nice stonework with whiting or limewash, so as to resemble the doorsteps of town or villa residences; and secondly, where there is much of such work, in having housemaids or other women to do it in gardens, or even to attempt to clean the stone and leave it with its natural appearance. This is work which is more suited for, and will be done better by young garden labourers. We have had even the whitening process done more elegantly and regularly by men than we have ever seen it done by women; and as to scrubbingoff the green, there is no comparison-in fact, it is such work that we would not care to see a woman at.

For scrubbing stonework we chiefly use a little sand, hot weak soap water, scrubbing brushes, and house flannel to dry all up, and a very little practice enables the man, if young, to do the work very well indeed. We greatly prefer the natural appearance of the clean flagstone, tiles, &c., to any daubing that can be given to them. When they are thus cleaned the finest dress will not be soiled as when whitestoned or whitening-rubbed. There is no reason why comfort should be lost sight of-the comfort of warm water, and more especially as, after a little soaking, the warm water will enable the workman to clean the stones better, and the warmer the water after the cloth has passed over them in the drying-up process, the sooner will the stones be bright and dry. We have had to wash plant pots with ice in the water; but what was or could be the benefit of it? The pots could not be made so thoroughly clean, and they were long in drying. In the cleaning of stones, in addition to the warm water, scrubbingbrush, and flannel to clean all up by wringing in a pail, we would depend on active scrubbing, as, if there is a little soap dissolved in the water, it must be only a little; and, contrary to general practice, we say, Never rub soap on the brush, as it only clogs it up, and prevents its acting on the stone.

The same simple principles apply to furnaces under boilers. We happen to know of several cases of boiler-heating where the close-cutting system so ruled that there was no dumb iron plate next the furnace door, but the furnace bars came close up to the door, and there was a large, long, dead rest at the farther end. We say nothing of the discomforts; we feel sure that, so far as ultimate wear and tear are concerned, the trifling saving will be a penny-wise-and-pound-foolish affair.

One case has come very prominently under our notice-a conservatory, such as we have noticed above, heated by a boiler, and the flue from the boiler having several turns in the back wall. Sometimes on commencing firing in winter it was found necessary to light a small fire at a soot door in the flue to dry it a little, and then there was no difficulty for the season. It was desirable to make the boiler do more work, and, as it was old, a new one was put in at once. From circumstances we need not mention the work was not superintended as it ought to have been, and the furnace bars were brought close to the furnace vic-feeding-door, consequently a long dead rest was left at the farther end. Pity a chimney-sweeper inured to smoke who should be condemned to stay a few minutes in that stokehole after the fire was lighted! The finest coke could be made to burn in a certain way, but not so as to heat the water or heat the flue properly, though the furnace door would become pretty well red hot. There was a thought of taking the shaft from the furnace to the chimney at once without going a long lengthsome 80 feet at least through the flue; but a fire placed in a soot-opening of the flue burned nicely, yet still the furnace beneath the boiler was a perfect abomination and martyrdom to all concerned. Well, what was done? Neither boiler nor flue was touched, but as much of the boiler-setting was taken down as permitted of some 15 inches of the dead rest being removed at the farther end, the furnace iron grating-bars moved all that closer to the end of the furnace, and a dead plate of the same size, from 12 to 15 inches, placed next the furnace doors; now there is not the least trouble with smoke, &c., and the draught through the long flue is so good that, to prevent the lower range of flue becoming too hot, it is necessary often to use a damper. We feel convinced that many who are in diffi

In cleaning stone we have used salt, soda, and other easy tors of the green, and the result is, we would say to our readers, "Don't." Unless the stone is very peculiarly hard, all such saline ingredients, though they remove rather easily the green coating, will be apt to leave an eating inflorescence on the stone that will give a flowery appearance on the surface for months afterwards, and continue to wear it out. On this account it is not advisable to use such saline matters for cleaning stone in corridors and conservatories. We would even decline to use such helps for cleaning out-door stonework, where after results are to be considered. We have known some stones, a little soft, show this wearing-out flowery appearance on the surface for a twelvemonth afterwards. Stone pathways, out of doors and in corridors and conservatories, look well when kept clean; and, as hinted above, we think they are best every way when of their natural colour, and not daubed over with dirt and filth cover-alls.

Heating.-Next to stoves in a small house, the cheapest mode of heating is by a flue; and the neatest mode of doing this, though not getting quite so much heat, is to have the flue not above, but under the floor level, the top of the flue forming

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