original idea, is one of those curious coincidences | Mason," the iron, "Fanny Skinner," the party all of mental sympathy which is sometimes observed in high spirits, set sail from New York about the to take place among men of science. The coinci- middle of November, 1847. dence is as striking as the case of Le Verrier and Adams with the new planet. On the 20th of August 1847, Lieut. Molyneux of H. M. S. Spartan, was landed at Acre with a few seamen. Hiring guides, camels and horses, he started early the next morning with the ship's dingey-a very small boat-for the sea of Galilee, and on the 23rd he was embarked on its blue waters. The natives manifested great reluctance to his descending the Jordan. But by a show of arms with threats to shoot the Sheiks who annoyed him on the way, he made good his descent, though it was in part accomplished by land. It was, however, by no means certain that the object which these officers and men had so much at heart, could be accomplished, for the permission given was only conditional. It all now depended upon the Grand Turk. Unless he would give a firman with leave for Lieut. Lynch and party to visit and explore the Dead Sea, the expedition was to be considered at an end. Lieut. Lynch, with his companion, Lieut. Dale, had therefore to proceed to Constantinople for the purpose of obtaining the requisite authority from the Turkish government. Business of a public nature called the Supply there. The Sultan treated them with marked consideration. He gave Lieut. Lynch a private audience, readily granted the firman addressed to the Governors of Jerusalem and Saida, requiring these functionaries to give that officer all needful aid and friendly assist ance. The 3rd of September found him fairly embarked on the Dead Sea. The greatest depth which he found is said to be 1350 feet. At noon on the 5th the party returned to their tent, on the shore, completely done up. Every thing and body in the tent was covered with an offensive, shiny substance The Sultan was so much pleased with the infrom the water. The iron was corroded and look-terview, that the next day he sent for the Grand ed as if covered with coal tar. Having disembarked, the dingey was again mounted on the backs of camels, and the party proIceeded with it to Jerusalem. Lieut. Molyneux returned to his ship by way of Jaffa, and died soon after getting on board. Vizier and expressed a wish to make the American officer a present "such as became a sovereign." This of course was declined, and the party were permitted to depart in peace. Every thing now bid fair, and "with a will to spare no exertion," wrote Lieut. Lynch to Judge Mason, "I trust in God for ability to deserve your good opinion." The news of his melancholy fate could not, when it reached them, fail to excite painful emotions in the minds of Lieut. Lynch and his party. But in On the last of March, the Supply landed the happy ignorance of the event, he and they were party at Kaiffa under Mount Carmel, and proceedin America, busy with their preparations. The ed to execute her orders in the Mediterranean. "Supply" was fitting at New York as a store-ship Two American travellers, viz: Henry Bellow and for the Mediterranean squadron. Lieut. Lynch Dr. H. J. Anderson, joined the party about this was designated to command her, and she was to time. be provided with two metallic boats instead of the All hands were now set to work in making the neusual boats of wood, one of which was made of cessary arrangements for their departure into the iron and painted, the other of copper. interior. They met difficulties at every turn; at The stores being on board and the ship report- last they found out that they all proceeded from ed ready for sea, the necessary orders were issued. the rapacious and unprincipled Seid Bey, the Gov"The object with which I have yielded to your ernor, who was endeavoring, by creating difficulrequest," said the Secretary of the Navy in his ties, to extort money. As soon as this discovery admirably drawn letter of instructions, "is to pro-was made, Lieut. Lynch refused to have any thing mote the cause of science and advance the char-more to do with him, and proceeded in his own acter of the Naval service." way. All things being considered—we can scarcely Seemingly insurmountable difficulties presented imagine a more legitimate subject, an object more themselves. The boats had to be transported to praiseworthy, or a more glorious opportunity for the sea of Galilee over mountain gorges and heights elevating the character of the Navy through its which nothing larger than the sure-footed horses officers. The question was, should the sojourn of of the country had ever passed before. But the these officers in the Mediterranean be one of idleness sailor resources of the party, supported by zeal in on board a store-ship at her anchors, or should it the noble enterprise, were sufficient to overcome be with them a labor of love and of usefulness in them all. About noon of the third day, the party the cause of science? The Navy glories in useful occupation. Provided with their simple outfits and the two boats aforesaid the copper one, named "Fanny halted nine miles from Tiberias. Their tent was pitched on a mountain side, with Nazareth on the right, Cana to the north, Mount Tabor to the southeast; spread beneath them was the plain, on which the bloody battle between the French and the Eng- On the third day they were compelled from her shattered condition to abandon the Galilee boat, So far not an accident had occurred, nor a mishap of any kind, save that "Fanny Skinner" had got her paint rubbed a little. After having surmounted incredible difficulties, still greater ones awaited them in this nine miles of distance. The boats had to be left in the mountains, while the exhausted party struggled forward to get water and to refresh themselves. The next day all hands returned to the boats. They had to be lowered down precipices with ropes. But at this work Jack Tar was perfectly au fait. Finally at 2 P. M., Saturday, of April the 8th, Lieut. Lynch had the satisfaction of reopening his despatch to announce the pleasing intelligence : "The Two Fannies,' each with the American ensign flying, are now afloat upon the sea of Galilee." We can now, in imagination, hear, reverberating among the mountains, the soul-stirring cheers with which that flag was greeted, as the gallant leader of that gallant little band flung the star-spangled banner to the breeze for the first time upon the waters of that ancient and venerable sea. The natives took the bright copper of the "Fanny Mason" to be gold, and looked upon her as an exponent of the greatness and wealth of the United States. They were friendly and offered the party no interruption in their progress. Here Lieut. Lynch purchased for twenty-one dollars and a quarter the only boat on the lake, to assist in the transportation down the Jordan. That lake abounds now, as it did of old, with excellent fish and wild fowl. But that at this day there should be only one boat on that sea, and that used not for fishing, but for bringing wood across, and valued no higher than at $21 1-4,may be taken as a sign that "fishers of men" are to be found there now. With this little wooden boat, the "Two Fannies" and the river Jordan for the rest of the way, it was thought the difficulties of the route were at an end. But to the consternation of the party it was found that the difficulties were but just commencing. The course of the Jordan was found to be interrupted by frequent and most fearful rapids. But the party to a man felt now that their own honor, the reputation of the Navy, and the credit of their country were all at stake upon their efforts. To a man they gave their energetic leader the most hearty cooperation. "Sometimes placing our sole trust in Providence, we had," says he, "to plunge with headlong velocity down appalling deSo great were the difficulties, that in two days they accomplished but twelve miles. scents." May the 18th the party arrived at Masaraa, a place on the river consecrated by tradition for the passage of the Israelites and the baptism of the Redeemer; it is nine miles from Jericho, where the pilgrims cross. The passage is dangerous, and Lieut. Lynch tarried here for the purpose of lending them assistance should accident befall and assistance be required. The two graceful little “Fannies," with colors flying, were anchored on the other side, ready to succor and to help. Early in the morning the pilgrims began to arrive, and by 5 o'clock there were several thousand already on the bank. The great secret of the depression between Lake Tiberias and the Dead Sea, is solved in the opinions of Lieut. Lynch, by the tortuous course of the Jordan. In a distance of about sixty miles that river winds along through a course of about two hundred miles. Within that distance he and his party plunged down no less than twenty-seven threatening rapids, besides many others of less descent. The difference of level between the sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea has been stated at over a thousand feet. But it has been urged by some that this could not be so, else the Jordan in its run of 60 miles would be a continuous cataract. The Mohawk, it was thought, was among the rivers of the greatest fall in the world, and it averages only four or five feet to the mile. But it is now known that the Sacramento of California has a fall of 2000 feet in 20 miles, on an average of 100 feet to the mile. With Lieut. Lynch's discovery and explanation as to the length of the Jordan, it is necessary to give it an average fall of only about 6 feet in each mile to account for the difference of level between its source and mouth. "A few weeks earlier or later," says he, "and the passage would have been impracticable. We are the first who have accomplished the entire descent. The small English boat last year, (Lieut. Molyneux's dingey,) was taken partly on a camel, and the officer made the journey by land. His notes were unfortunately taken in cipher, and by his death, are, I am told, lost to the world." Leaving Masaraa, Lieut. Lynch took the lead in the "Fanny Mason," followed by passed midshipman Aulick in the “ Fanny Skinner," while Lieut. Dale with his friendly Bedouins, and a few others, accompanied the baggage and stores by land, for it was necessary to carry provisions along. After separating in the morning, the two parties saw no more of each other until they met at night. With an hour's pull the two boats stopped to fill their gum elastic water breakers. This accomplished, the party resumed their oars, and were soon led to expect the close proximity of the Dead Sea, from a fœtid odor-but this was traced to two across the desert of Arabia with a stifling heat. streamlets strongly impregnated with sulphur. The At 8 P. M. their thermometer, which before had Dead Sea, however, soon burst upon their view, ranged from 88° to 97°, stood at 1069. "We into which the little boats bounded with a north-could not take our tents with us," says the interwest gale. esting letter from which we are quoting, "nor did we need them, as we found it more agreeable sleeping in the open air upon the beach." The water of the river was sweet to within a few hundred yards of its mouth. The waters of the sea were devoid of smell, but they were bitter, salt, and nauseous. Having circumnavigated the Lake and returning to their place of departure, they found the sad in"As we rounded to the westward," writes Lieut. telligence of Mr. Adams' death awaiting their ar Lynch, "the agitated sea presented a sheet of rival. Their colors were lowered at half mast, and foaming brine. The spray, separating as it fell, there out upon the dark waters of this mysterious left incrustations of salt upon our faces and clothes, sea, this little band of true-hearted Americans paid and while it caused a pricking sensation wherever a tribute to the memory of the patriot and statesit touched the skin, was above all exceedingly pain-man, with 21 minute guns fired from their frail vesful to the eyes. "The boats heavily laden, struggled sluggishly at first, but when the wind freshened to a gale, it seemed as if the bows, so dense was the water, were encountering the sledge-hammers of the Titans, instead of the opposing waves of an angry sea. sels. The echoes from the cavernous recesses of the lofty and barren mountains which surrounded them, startled the Arabs, and reverberated loudly and strangely upon the ears of the mourners. The letters of Lieut. Lynch giving an account, currente calamo, of his proceedings, are of great value and exceeding interest. We hope soon to have the pleasure of announcing his return to the United States and of welcoming him and his companions back to country, home and friends. "We have," says he, "elicited several facts of "At the expiration of an hour and a half, we were driven far to leeward, and I was compelled to bear away for the shore. When we were near to it, and while I was weighing the practicability of landing the boats through the surf, the wind suddenly ceas-interest to the man of science and the Christian. ed and with it the sea rapidly fell-the ponderous quality of the water causing it to settle as soon as the agitating power had ceased to act. Within five minutes there was a perfect calm, and the sea was unmoved even by undulation. At 8 P. M., weary and exhausted, we reached a place of rendezvous upon the northwest shore." The three succeeding days were devoted to sound-cubes-of pure salt. At one time Stellwagen's lead ing. brought up nothing but chrystals. "The bottom of the northern half of this sea is almost an entire plain. Its meridianal lines at a short distance from the shore scarce vary in depth. The deepest soundings thus far 188 fathoms. (1128 feet.) Near the shore, the bottom is generally an incrustation of salt, but the intermediate one is soft mud with many rectangular chrystals—mostly Resting over Easter Sunday, the party resumed "The southern half of the sea is as shallow as the operations the next day, making topographical northern one is deep, and for about one-fourth of sketches as they went, and touching at a copious its entire length the depth does not exceed three stream issuing from hot springs, and the mouth of fathoms (18 feet.) Its southern bed has presentthe river Amon of antiquity. They proceeded thence by degrees to the southern extremity of the sea, where the most wonderful sight that they had yet seen awaited them. 66 "In passing the mountain of Uzdom, (Sodom,) we unexpectedly and much to our astonishment," continues our adventurous explorer, saw a large, rounded, turret-shaped column facing towards S. E. which proved to be of solid rock salt, capped with carbonate of lime; one mass of chrystalization. Mr. Dale took a sketch of it, and Dr. Anderson and I with great difficulty landed and procured specimens from it.” The sea soon proved so shallow that they could proceed no further. Half a mile from the southern shore they found but six inches water, and beyond, an extensive marsh too yielding for a foot hold. Near the eastern shore they encountered a sirocco, which came sweeping from the southeast ed no chrystals, but the shores are lined with incrustations of salt, and when we landed at Uzdom, in the space of an hour, our footprints were coated with chrystalization. "The opposite shores of the peninsula and the west coast present evident marks of disruption. "There are unquestionably birds and insects upon the shores and ducks are sometimes upon the sea, for we have seen them-but cannot detect any living thing within it; although the salt streams flowing into it, contain small fish. My hopes have been strengthened into conviction, and I feel sure that the results of this survey will fully sustain the scriptural account of the cities of the plain. "With one exception we are all well, save to that one, not a dose of medicine has been administered-and his disease is neither caused nor af fected by the climate. Although we are up early and out long, living on two meals a day, save when we are restricted to one, there is no complaining,— all seem to be actuated by a high sense of duty. [bottom of the two seas, and that the depth of the The preserved meats have proved almost worth- Dead Sea should be also an exact multiple of the less, few being able to eat them, and sometimes our height of Jerusalem above it. only food is rice. Oranges and lemons, luxuries in our happy country, are here, from the want of vegetables, absolute necessaries. Still, as there are cavillers at home, I have once sent to Jerusalem and purchased them for the men at my own expense. "The expense of guards to our baggage while we are absent, I am obliged to incur, as also for their transportation from place to place, for the boats can carry no more than the officers and men; the arms, instruments, food and water. The whole cost from Beirout to this place, including purchases, transportation of boats, camels, horses, guards and guides amounted to about $700. I strive to be economical. terms. "With the Arabs we are on the most friendly In accordance with the tenor of my orders, I have agreed to pay them fairly for all the services they may render and provisions they may bring-but for nothing more. Thus far, two false alarms excepted, we have been undisturbed in our progress and operations. I scarce know what we should have done without the Arabs. They bring us food when nearly famished, and water when parched with thirst. They act as guides and messengers, and in our absence faithfully guard our tents, bedding and clothes. A decided course, tempered with courtesy, wins at once their respect and good will. Although they are an impetuous race, not an angry word has thus far passed between us. With the blessing of God, I hope to preserve the existence of harmony to the last. "The Jordan, although rapid and impetuous, is graceful in its windings and fringed with luxuriance, while its waters are sweet, clear, cool and refreshing. Another not less singular fact, in the opinion of Lieut. Lynch, "is that the bottom of the Dead Sea forms two submerged plains, an elevated and a depressed one. The first, its southern part, of slimy mud covered by a shallow bay; the last, its northern and largest portion, of mud and incrustations and rectangular chrystals of salt-at a great depth with a narrow ravine running through it, corresponding with the bed of the river Jordan at one extremity and the Wady el Jeib,' or wady within a wady at the other." The slimy ooze upon that plain at the bottom of the Dead Sea will not fail to remind the sacred historian of the slime pits" in the vale, where were joined in battle "four kings with five." June the 9th, the whole party after an absence of a little over two months, had returned to St. Jean d'Acre on the Mediterranean. They brought back their boats in as complete order as they received them on board at New York. The party were in fine health. Save a flesh wound to one man from the accidental discharge of his piece, not an accident or mishap had occurred to any one. The Arabs would point to them and say, "God is with them." Lieut. Lynch has endeared himself to his countrymen; his Christian brethren look upon him with pride, and the whole Christian world with eager interest await his return and the forthcoming of his final Report. By this expedition problems, great and important in the eyes of Christendom, have been solved by the American government, and that too at a cost too trifling to be named in such connexion. Seven hundred dollars for a scientific exploration of the Dead Sea! There is not a village "Even if my letter were more brief, this is not church in the land, where if the matter had been a proper place to dwell upon the wonders of this proposed, such a sum could not have been raised at sea, for wondrous it is, in every sense of the word, once for the work. Still, there be "cavillers at home," so sudden are the changes of the weather and so and as of old, so now, there be those who can "strain different the aspects it presents, as at times to seem at a gnat and swallow a camel." But the enlightas if we were in a world of enchantments. We are ened and patriotic minds which planned, set on alternately beside and upon the brink and the sur-foot, and consummated this undertaking, have also face of a huge and sometimes seething cauldron." their reward: the mens conscia, the sense of having The greatest depth obtained was 218 fathoms, so used their high privileges of place as to advance (1308 feet.) Having completed the survey of the the honor of their country and the glory of God; the sea, the party proceeded to determine the height of approving "well-done" of a Christian people, and mountains on its shores, and to run a level thence the grateful acknowledgment of wise and good men via. Jerusalem to the Mediterranean. They found every where, are only a part of the great rewards the summit of the precipitous ridge which forms which they deserve, and which we hope they may the west bank of the Dead Sea, to be more than a long live to enjoy. thousand feet above its surface, and very nearly on a level with the Mediterranean. It is a curious fact, that the distance from the top to the bottom of the Dead Sea, should measure Alluding to the devotion of an ancient sculptor to his lathe height of its banks, the elevation of the Medi-bors, Madame de Staël has finely said, "The history of his terranean, and the difference of level between the life was the history of his statue." VOL. XIV-70 |