- Peasants' costumes- Buccioletto - Singular obelisk - View of Fer- - Dahlias - Arrive at Rimasco - Excursion to Rima Taglia Ferro Situation and people of Rima- - Church and charnel-house - Funeral procession · Carcofaro - The cure's garden- Cures and reve- nues of Church in Piedmont - Col d'Egua Lost in mist -- Perilous situation-Rescue - Scenery of Val Ollocia - Forests - Timber shoot — Night Banio.- Festival and illuminations - Ponte Grande Page 386 Ponte Grande - Festa and procession - Bishop of Novara - Inn - Mora's plight Start for Macugnaga - Vanzone - Cure's apiary-Ceppo Morelli -Ferns-Limit of Val Anzasca Barrier of ancient moraine - Morgen - Pestarena -- Borca- "Albergo dei Cacciatori "- Culinary matters — Marmot Monte Rosa - Inundations - Macugnaga glacier- Belvedere - Lost valley - Ascent of Monte Moro - Old church and linden-tree German colonies: origin of -- Dialects - Gold-mines of Pestarena- Descent to Calasca- Deluge of rain-Lower Val Anzasca - Pie di Pie di Mulera - Floods - Migiandone - Mines vasso Marble quarries - Monte Orfano - Omegna-Lago d'Orta -- of track - Inaggio - Timber “ serra - Forno - Landslip - Campello Strange quarters - Col di Campello - View of Monte Rosa - Rimella his masters, works, and scholars - Church of San Gaudenzio house Santa Maria delle Grazie San Pietro il Martire- Gula Farewell to Delapierre and Mora - Sacro Monte: its history and chapels Scuola di Barolo - Mines of Balma-Start from Varallo- Col di Colma Last view of Monte Rosa Lago d'Orta San Giulio Orta CHAPTER XXI. VAL D'OSSOLA.-VAL DI VEDRO.-VAL ANTIGORIO.-VAL FORMAZZA. Domo d'Ossola Calvary — Preglia and Crevola — Ascent of Simplon — - Prickly pear- Marble quarries — Aquamarine and garnets - Varzo — - Douane - Bridge and battle of Crevola - Scenery of Val Antigorio - Ponte Maglio - Snow-storm- Farewell to Italian valleys Page 536 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. MONTE ROSA FROM THE COL DI CAMPELLO-VAL MASTALONE Frontispiece 2. CONVENT OF GREAT ST. BERNARD AND MONT VELAN to face page 9 3. THE GLACIER OF LA BRENVA-VAL D'ENTRÈVES.. 5. THE BREITHORN AND PETIT CERVIN, FROM THE COL ST. THÉODULE-VAL TOURNANCHE 40 page 138 to face page 210 7. GRESSONEY ST. JEAN, AND THE LYSKAM-VAL DE LYS to face page 263 8. MONTE ROSA FROM THE COMBETTA-VAL DE LYS.. 9. PIC DE LA GRIVOLA-VAL DE COGNE 10. THE BOUQUETIN, OR STEINBOCK 11. MONTE ROSA from Pile Alpe-Val di Bours 12. INN AT Borca .. 281 .. 13. THE OLD CHURCH AND LINDEN TREE-VAL MACUGNAGA 14. GOTHIC WINDOWS IN CHURCH AT MACUGNAGA 15. THE GUla .. 16. PASS AND GLACIER OF THE GRIES MAP OF MONT BLANC and ENVIRONS MAP OF MONTE ROSA AND ENVIRONS MAP OF ITALIAN VALLEYS OF THE PENNINE ALPS THE ITALIAN VALLEYS OF THE PENNINE ALPS. CHAPTER I. VAL DU GRAND ST. BERNARD.-VAL DE BOSSES.-VAL D'AOSTA. Great St. Bernard Pass-Object of tour - Preparatory arrangements Convent Historical associations - Pennine Alps-Chronicles of St. Bernard-Early service - Peasants at breakfast St. Remy-Pass of the Col de Serena - Morgex to Courmayeur. THERE are few incidents in Alpine travel which excite more strangely mingled sensations than the first sight of the lonely Hospice of the Great St. Bernard, in its winter robe of snow and mist, coming unexpectedly on the benighted traveller, who has toiled on foot up the long and weary ascent of the Val d'Entremont from Orsières. Overtaken on the last, and most trying part of the pass, by the rapidly deepening shades of an early winter evening ;-barely able in dim twilight to distinguish, at a few yards, the tall poles, the only guides to the direction of the deeply-buried track ;enveloped in bewildering cloud-mist and whistling sleet, which sweep down on the icy wind from unseen mountaintops ;-plunging knee-deep in the thick snow, or stumbling in the dark over protruding rocks and down invisible hollows; benumbed and drowsy, the only wish is to sit down anywhere, but for one moment, regardless of consequences— when suddenly the outline of the Convent looms out at a few yards' distance, like a huge ark indistinctly seen through the drifting clouds. Hazy lights struggle through the mist, B |