enough for the steam to pass off through the valve at the top of the cover. This may be done by filling the digester only three parts full of water and bruised bones or meat, which it is to be noticed are all put in together. It must then be placed near a slow fire, so as only to simmer, for the space of eight or ten hours, as more heat injures the quality. After this has been done, the soup is to be strained through a hair sieve or colander, in order to separate any bits of bones. The soup is then to be again put into the digester; and, after whatever vegetables and seasoning are thought necessary are added, the whole is to be well boiled together for an hour or two, and it will be then fit for immediate use.

N.B. In putting on the lid of the digester, take care that a mark thus X, on the lid, is opposite to a similar mark X on the digester.

The bain-marie is a very shallow cistern placed on a hot hearth, and generally made of copper, for containing hot water to keep soups and sauces warm, but may occasionally be used for keeping dishes warm. It is the best mode of keeping anything hot which has been sufficiently dressed, but not

Bain-Marie.

ready to be sent to table; se the dish, if covered and placed in it, may be thus kept perfactly warm, without being scorched as it would be if put before the fire.

Anything that is to be warmed and sent to table a second time should, in like manner, be put into a basin or jar, placed

in hot water, which is not permitted to come to the boilingpoint. If allowed to boil, the meat will harden, or the sauce will be reduced and become thick: by avoiding these chances the flavour will be preserved, and the viands may be warmed up more than once without injury. The steam-apparatus now employed in most kitchens is admirably adapted to this purpose, since the heat can be regulated to the required temperature.

A spacious moveable screen, large enough to completely cover the fire, lined throughout with tin, and having shelves for the warming of plates and dishes, should also be an appendage; and there should be an abundance of kitchen utensils of the best kind, kept in their proper places and strictly clean. Cleanliness is, indeed, of the first importance, and no kitchenmaid should ever put away a metal saucepan which has been used for any other purpose than merely boiling pure water, without scalding it thoroughly and then drying it.

On the Continent many of the most useful kitchen utensils are made of glazed crockery-ware-such as pipkins for melting butter, boiling milk, and making sauces; as well as deep bellyformed jars and pans of different sizes for the stewing of meat and making of soups, as being more easily kept sweet than those of tin or copper; and, if the same system were more followed in this country, it would secure the delicacy of many dishes which are spoiled by being cooked in vessels which have imbibed a sour or musty flavour. However, if copper utensils

a

They may now be had at Burton and Rippon's shop in Oxford Street, and at many other furnishing ironmongers'.

be used in the kitchen, the cook should be charged to be very careful not to let the tin be rubbed off, and to have them fresh tinned when the least defect appears,a as well as never to put by any soup, gravy, or sauce in them, or any metal utensil; stone and earthen vessels should be provided for those purposes. Independently of these articles, every kitchen should be provided with a clock to keep the cook to her time; also with a large and a small marble mortar for the pounding of meat, with chopper, meat-saw, various-sized scoops for vegetables, when required for haricos, &c., paste-cutters, steak-tongs, &c., and those insignificant, though useful little articles, minuteglasses, to regulate the boiling of an egg; nor should a spicebox, containing whole pepper, mace, nutmegs, and cinnamon, be forgotten; together with various dried sweet herbs. As accuracy in apportioning the ingredients to be used is indispensable to the success of cookery, scales, with weights from oz. to 2 lbs., should be placed on the dresser, and the weights carefully kept in regular order. Å A set of tin measures with small spouts or lips, and with the contents distinctly marked upon them, from a gallon down to half a gill, will also

Scales.

be found very convenient. It is likewise well to have a set of wooden measures, from a bushel to a quarter of a peck. Let it be remembered, that, of liquid measure

Two gills are half a pint.

Two pints are one quart.
Four quarts are one gallon.

Of dry measure—

Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck.
One gallon is half a peck.

Two gallons are one peck.
Four gallons are half a bushel.

Eight gallons are one bushel.

About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common-sized teaspoon.

This is so essential a point that the mistress herself should occasionally examine if it is necessary to be done.

Four tablespoonfuls, or half a gill, will fill a common wine-glass.
Four wine-glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large
coffee-cup.

A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half.

Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastry, a quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound avoirdupois (sixteen ounces). Avoirdupois is the weight designated throughout this book.

Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken.

A tablespoonful of salt or brown sugar is generally about one ounce.

Sieves, of various descriptions, are very essential. Every utensil for cookery should be of various sizes, so as to suit the quantity of which the dishes may be composed; and each should be kept in a fixed place, as well as washed and dried immediately after using. The cook should also be charged to take care of jelly-bags, tapes for the collared things, &c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give an unpleasant flavour when next used.

CHAPTER V.

FOREIGN TERMS USED IN COOKING.

FRENCH Cookery is of so diverse a nature that many volumes have already been written upon the subject; and new modes of dressing the same things are so constantly being invented, that we must content ourselves with merely giving a few explanations of the terms adopted by most of our professed cooks.

Bain-Marie.-A vessel with a loose bottom to contain hot water, in which sauces may be kept hot to nearly the boilingpoint without their burning or being reduced.

Bard.-A slice of thin bacon fat, used for covering the breasts of birds, the back of a hare, or any substance that requires the assistance of fat where larding is not preferred.

Beignet, or Fritter.—Anything that is enveloped in a casing of batter or egg, and fried. Thus we have fritters of fruit, vegetables, cream, &c.

Blanc.-A white broth used to improve the colour of chickens, lamb, &c.

Blanch. To set anything on the fire in cold water, and when it boils strain it off and plunge it into cold water.

Blanquettes. A kind of fricassée, made of slices of white meat cut thin, and warmed in white sauce thickened with the yolk of eggs.

Bouilli.-Beef very much boiled and served with sauce.
Bouillon. The common soup of France.

Braise. A mode of stewing veal, &c., in a closely-covered stewpan, so as to prevent evaporation, whilst the meat retains not only its own juices but those of other articles which may be put with it, such as bacon, herbs, roots, and spice.

Callipash. The glutinous meat of the upper shell of a turtle. Callipee. The glutinous meat of the under shell of a turtle. Caramel.-Sugar boiled down until the water is evaporated,

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