52 LAMEGO TO ST. JOAO DE PESQUEIRA. [ROUTE 15. twelve, or sixteen hours, according to the quantity of water in the river, and according to its rapidity, which after heavy rain is so great as to have induced one writer to state, somewhat hyperbolically, "that he shot down its roaring rapids with the celerity of lightning." Some travellers prefer the scenery of the Douro to that of the Rhine, notwithstanding all the airy castles of the latter; but in truth no comparison between them can be made, as they differ in all their characteristics, each having indeed its own peculiar beauty there are, however, parts of the Douro which, in massive grandeur, are not inferior to those of the Danube between Ratisbon and Vienna. By persons who wish to see all its striking features, the descent of the river should be made from Barca d'Alva, or at least from Foscoa, and then they will sail down the Ponto do Cachão, hemmed in by gigantic rocks on either side. Much of the delight of this descent must depend upon the state of the weather, the quantity of water in the river, which is ever varying, and also upon the susceptibilities of the traveller, and his capacity to endure the fatigue which arises from being so long confined in a boat. On the banks and hills of the Upper Douro, the scenery 66 is often monotonous, the vine affording little variety; but to other parts, the oak, pine, chestnut, cork, olive, and myrtle, yield their grace; and the rock scenery has a wildness about it almost terrific." It were worth any person's while to go to Portugal, if it were only to luxuriate in the never-ending beauties of this charming river. Any one entering Portugal from Spain, by way of Salamanca (an agreeable journey), or by Ciudad Rodrigo, could conveniently descend the Douro from Barca d'Alva. A splendid map of this river was published a few years ago, by Weale, 59, High Holborn, having beautiful drawings of Ponto do Salto, Ponto do Cachão, As Pedras das Amboras, and of other romantic parts of the Douro. The traveller will, in this journey, pass over part of the Arouca Mountains, and will be greatly interested by the perfectly foreign character of the scenery, till he reach the Estrella Mountains. At Cabeçaes he could stay one night, there being at that place pretty good accommodation, as well as at S. Pedro do Sul. Vizeu is a city of some consequence, having a bishop. Near it is a very noble hospital; in one of its public buildings there is a remarkable staircase of stone. From Vizeu to Cea is an easy day's journey; but at Cea there is no inn affording the most common comfort; the traveller is therefore recommended to go to Nossa Senhora da d'Esterro, where, in the house of the sacristão, Senhor Anselmo, he will find suitable accomodation for the wayfaring man. From S. Ramão, a village not far distant, he can send for tea, chocolate, wine, and bread, so as to be enabled to sojourn as long as he likes in the perfect retreat of Nossa Senhora da d'Esterro, from which place he may explore all that is marvellous in the Estrella chain of mountains. Taking Anselmo with him as a guide, the traveller can ascend the mountain, visit the source of the Rio Zezere, the Cantara, and the obelisk; and on his return go to the lakes, four of which are to be found in the Estrella Mountains. 1. The Lagoa Redonda. 2. The Lagoa Secca, so called because it sometimes is dry in summer. 3. The Lagoa Escura. Of which four, the Lagoa Escura is the most remarkable, and should assuredly be visited. It is difficult of access, being inclosed between high and wild rocks, which convey the notion of perfect solitude; its waters are so very deep as to be deemed fathomless by the mountaineers, because no one, as yet, has ascertained their actual depth, which, together with its romantic position and wonderful rocks, has occasioned many strange notions to be entertained concerning the lake; such as that it has a subterraneous communication with the sea, though distant from it twenty leagues. The ascent of the mountain should be commenced by moon or star light, and, when the sun rises, the wanderer will perhaps witness over all the plain, to the west and north, the most lovely pink hue, extending over the country between the Estrella and Vizeu; the sites of Guarda, Sabugeira, and Mangualde being visible. In five hours the summit may be attained; hence in one long day the trip to the obelisk and to the lakes may be made with ease, and the rambler can return to Anselmo's humble habitation for the night; but if he have no desire to return to Nossa Senhora da d'Esterro, he can take the lakes in his ascent, and, after reaching the Cantara, can descend by it to Covilhão, if not deterred by the very precipitous character of the rocks. Link's account of the Lagoa Escura, or dark lake, is curious; indeed his book gives the best known description of all that is interesting in this wonderful mass of mountains, in the exploring of which any person might well employ fifteen days. Not far from Anselmo's cottage, there is a singular spot, which was occupied and well fortified by the Moors, where still remain |