NORTH-BERWICK-LAW.-TAMTALLAN.

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but happily without loss of life, as the flood began early in the afternoon, and expended its fury before night.

Returning to the coast, the hill of North Berwick-law forms an imposing feature in the landscape. From its isolated position, and conical shape, it has very much the appearance, if not proof, of volcanic origin, and long served as a beacon-station in times of war. The country around is highly cultivated, populous, and productive; and bordering the sea-where the storm-defying Bass looks like an invincible out-post, planted amidst the waters for the protection of the coast-is at all seasons full of beauty and historical interest. The town, itself a royal borough although with only a village population, was a place of no small importance in ancient times; and in the present, keeps due pace with its neighbours in local improvement.

A short distance westward, and crowning a gentle eminence which commands. one of the finest views in Lothian, are the remains of a Cistercian Nunnery, founded and liberally endowed by Duncan, Thane of Fife, in the early part of the twelfth century. In the opposite direction, the Castle of Tamtallan, renowned for its strength, remarkable for its position, and long considered, par excellence, as the "impregnable," is highly deserving of a visit. Its ruins are calculated to make a strong impression upon every one conversant with the times and purposes when such structures were indispensable, and supplied-not only the means of security, but too frequently, also, the means of oppression. It is pleasing to contemplate such places, independently of their picturesque effect, gradually sinking into the earth, like that despotism which they were raised to support. It evinces that happy change in the social system, when good faith is no longer measured by the strength of the fortress; and when the vassal and his lord are alike the subjects of the law, and are punished or protected-not with forbearance on one hand, and severity on the other, but with rigid regard to personal desert, and impartial justice. This is the triumph of humanizing principles, the glory of our own times, and proclaims the difference between an age of barbarism and an age of refinement. Few who have travelled much, but have remarked, that, in all countries where such fortresses are numerous, and scrupulously preserved, mankind either are, or deserve to be, slaves. The first step to freedom is to break the chains, and that line of dilapidated fortresses which still frown along the coast, are but so many broken chains which so often enslaved the people, and raised the standard of rebellion against the prince. What tales of treason, suffering, and oppression, have been concerted, inflicted, and endured, within such ramparts as these! It is pleasing, we repeat, to witness such monuments in decay.

The Bass, one of the boldest features on the coast, attractive from its singularity, and soaring in isolated grandeur above the surrounding waters, is a scene no less remarkable for its history than for its peculiar character as the " fragment of a former world." It is the point which more especially fixes the eye of every stranger; and in connexion with the law, already mentioned, and the other points which give such a castellated appearance to this romantic coast, forms a picture which, in colour and combination, is only to be found on the magnificent estuary of the Forth.

As the state prison, or Bastile, of former times, its rocky battlements have contained many prisoners of distinction. Here treason to the crown, and zeal for the Covenant, have expiated in solitary durance the charges severally advanced against them by proof or imputation. It is a St. Helena in miniature - combining with its peculiarities as a prison, some of the necessary qualifications as an island; and, with a well of excellent water, furnishes pasture for twenty or thirty sheep.

Here, in primitive times, St. Baldred is said to have fixed his hermitage, till those pious credentials, of which he was the bearer, were recognized; and his christian mission prospered on the coast. A more sublime station for the exercise of devotion, and spiritual communion with heaven, it were difficult to find. But here, too, extremes have met. St. Baldred's sanctuary has been profaned; not only by the voice of the captive, but by the boisterous mirth of buccaneers and marauders, who, in the wane of the national strength, made its caverns and rocks the receptacle of plunder. This desperate band, concealing, under the specious cover of loyalty, a system of piratical adventure, made the Bass their head-quarters, from which they could sally at any given moment, and safely deposit their lawless spoils when the adventure favoured. At last, however, the hour of retribution arrived: the galley that had gone forth, as usual, for plunder, found either its match in some heavier metal, or foundered at sea, for none of the crew returned. The outlaws, therefore, who were left in charge of the rock, seeing no chance of bettering their condition, and on the point of suffering from famine, struck their Jacobite flag, and, surrendering at discretion, were, probably, the very last who were disarmed in the Stuart cause.

The vast quantity of "solan" geese which inhabit the Bass, during the season of incubation, may be compared to a shower of snow. When they take wing from any sudden alarm, and again alight, they contrast well with the "blue above and the blue below," and cover the rock like a white sheet. Like the quails of Capreæ, in the bay of Naples, they pay a considerable tribute to the

BATTLE OF PRESTON-PANS, OR GLADSMUIR.

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proprietor, and were, no doubt, welcome visitors, even in the time of St. Baldred, since the legitimate fare of the monastic cuisine were both at handfish in the net and eggs in the nest.

Owing to this circumstance, Dr. James Johnson has pointedly remarked, that with so many geese in her neighbourhood-Tarpeia quondam custodia rupis-the Scottish "Capitol" has little to apprehend from surprise.

The village of Preston-pans holds a conspicuous station in the catalogue of provincial celebrity. Here the "battle of Gladsmuir"-that prosperous beginning to a disastrous end, and the theme of many a song-was fought in 1745. The short-lived success which here crowned the ill-starred heir of the Stuarts, resembled one of those bright, cloudless, mornings which lure the inexperienced mariner out to sea-flatter him with a prosperous voyage, then change to a hurricane, scatter his convoy, and leave him on rocks and quicksands.

This was the first important action which introduced the campaign. The moment that Prince Charles's arrival at Lochhaber was confirmed, Sir John Cope, who held the chief command in Scotland, received instructions from government to concentrate his entire force; and, by acting with vigour and decision, to crush the rebellion while it was yet in embryo. His failure in the accomplishment of this mandate allowed the Prince and his daily increasing adherents to direct their march upon the capital, where the royal adventurer met with a friendly reception, and took up his quarters in the palace of his ancestors.

In the mean time the English army, having arrived by sea and advanced from Dunbar to Haddington, took up their position within sight of the Highland camp. The eve of the battle was spent by both armies in bivouac - nearly equal in number, but very differently armed and appointed, circumstances in which the force under Cope had greatly the advantage. At day-break the Highland columns were in motion, and pressing eagerly forward, challenged their antagonists to the combat. The right wing, with the duke of Perth at its head, comprised the regiments of Clanronald, Glenco, Keppoch, and Glengary; the left, commanded by Lord George Murray, consisted of the Camerons, Stuarts of Appin, Macgregors, and Drummonds. The celerity with which the Highlanders responded to the signal, and rushed to the charge, was highly characteristic of their native impetuosity—a feature which modern discipline and a disuse of the broadsword have, in no small degree, softened and restrained. Marching in rapid order up to the very mouths of the cannon, which now played upon them, they discharged their muskets, and threw them away as an incumbrance; then drawing their claymores, and falling upon the

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enemy, with a tremendous shout, made such "lightsome room," that in ten minutes they were masters of the field.

Panic-struck at this novel system of warfare, which allowed neither room for manoeuvring, nor time for reloading their muskets, but brought the English bayonet and the Highland broadsword into immediate contact, the soldiers of Cope were thrown into complete disorder; and, broken at all points, fell, fled, or surrendered, in every direction. To attribute the result of this brief conflict to the cowardice of one and the courage of the other, would be equally rash and unjust for the troops which fled before the Highlanders at Prestonpans had conquered on the fields of Dettingen and Flanders, and were justly considered among the bravest and best-disciplined in Europe. Nevertheless, says the chevalier Johnstone, they threw down their arms, that they might run with more speed; thus depriving themselves of the only means of arresting the vengeance of the Highlanders. Of so many men in a condition to preserve order in their retreat, not one thought of defending himself-terror had taken entire possession of their minds.

Of their unfortunate general, the most contradictory reports were set afloat, and much invention employed to rouse the spirit of the country against him. It was confidently reported that he had promised his army eight hours' pillage in the capital, as a prospective reward for their defeat of the Rebels. But this, like various other charges preferred against him, is supported by no credible testimony; and on an impartial review of the evidence afterwards produced in court, it cannot be disputed but that many of the king's officersand particularly Cope himself-had done their duty. But skill and experience on the part of a commander are nothing, when met by a refractory spirit on the part of the commanded; and though many of the latter, as we have stated, were veterans, and well schooled in the wars of Marlborough, they but too well illustrated a saying of that great captain, that the courage of no man, however brave, is, on all occasions, a thing to warrant implicit reliance. Rymer, it appears, was the only officer present who had ever witnessed the system of Highland warfare, opposed to that of regular troops, and felt justly apprehensive of the result. The first charge realized his worst fears; and when the line was broken, and all order subverted, he scorned to retreat, and fell, like his friend Gardiner," with his feet to the foe."

The fate of the latter," the gallant and good," was sincerely lamented by both parties. He had taken leave of his family at Stirling only a few days previously—but with a fatal presentiment, it is said, of his approaching fall. Observing his wife more than usually affected at the moment of separation,