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half on the high road to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted the road, and began our ascent at the first step of this lofty mountain, when we had surmounted the exterior ridge, we descended a little to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full by the numerous tributary torrents that fall down the surrounding rocks; hence we climbed a second and still higher chain up a steep but not difficult track, over numerous frag. ments of rock detached from the higher parts: we now came to a second and more elevated lake, clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs in such a manner as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most accurate representation is to be seen in Wilson's excellent view of Cader Idris. Some travellers have mentioned the finding lava and other volcanic productions here; upon a strict examination, however, we were unable to discover any thing of the kind, nor did the water of the lake appear to differ in any respect from the purest rock water, though it was tried repeatedly with the most delicate chemical

A clear, loud, and distant echo, repeats every shock that is made near the lake. We now begin our last and most difficult ascent up the summit of Cader Idris itself, which, when we had surmounted, we came to a small plain with two rocky heads of nearly equal heights, one looking to the north, and the other to the south: we made choice of that which appeared to us the most elevated, and seated ourselves on its highest pinnacle, to rest after a laborious ascent of three hours. We were now high above all the eminences within this vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks which we before looked up to with astonishment, were far below at our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the vallies between them; to the north, Snowdon with its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a vast distance by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky coasts of Merioneth, the southern horizon was bounded by Plin

limmon,

[graphic][merged small][merged small]

limmon, and at the east the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arennig mountains, the two Arrans, the long chain of the Ferwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of Shropshire; and dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wreakin, rising alone from the plain of Salop. Having at last satisfied our curiosity, and being thoroughly chilled by the keen air of these elevated regions, we began to descend down the side opposite to that which we had come up. The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, whose cold clear waters discharge their superabundance in a full stream down the side of the mountain; all these waters abound with trout; and in some is found the gwyniad, a fish particular to rocky alpine Hakes; following the course of the stream, we came on the edge of the craggy cliffs that overlook Talyllyn lake; a long and *difficult descent conducted us at last on the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the Dolgelle road.

The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in all Wales, rises on the sea shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile above Towyn, it proceeds with almost a constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten miles farther runs E. N. E. giving out from its summit a branch nearly three miles long, in a southwesterly direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and craggy on every side; but the southern descent, especially to the border of Talyllyn lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small proportion to its length; a line passing along its base and intersecting the summit would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in breadth. The peak is said to be 2850 feet above Dolgelle.* Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending in a N. N. easterly direction, and including the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much loftier

i..

* Pennant's Snowdonia, p. 89.

and

and more craggy than the slates and secondary mountains which surround it, and consists of,

1. Siliceous porphyry in mass; intersected by veins of quartz.

2. Siliceous schistose, porphyry, intersected by veins of quartz.

3. Argillaceous porphyry, in mass.

4. Granitell (of Kirwan) in mass, composed of quartz and schorl."*

The vale of Talyllyn, though confined, is not destitute of beauty. It consists of rich meadows, through which meanders a fine rivulet, issuing from the lake, that soon has its confluence with the ocean. The valley is flanked by lofty mountains, whose declivous sides are adorned with verdant and sylvan clothing. The termination is highly picturesque. The lake here nearly fills the valley, so as to leave only a road on one side, and then contracts gradually into the form of a river, rushing under a bridge of one arch, through a narrow defile, on one side of which stands the church, and on the other cottages, intermingled with trees.

One

In a flat called Towyn Meireonydd, watered by the river Dysynwy, that falls into the sea a few miles to the north of Llanfihangel y Pennant, rises an immense rock with a very contracted top. Here once stood a castle, evidently from the present remains of great strength. It appears to have extended longitudinally, over the whole surface of the summit. apartment, thirty-six feet in diameter, was cut out of the rock. In some parts the lines of circumvallation consisted of stones, loosely piled on the edges of the precipices. The other sides were defended by well built walls of squared stones, cemented with mortar, composed of calcined shells, and gravel. The whole is now almost invisible, being overrun with weeds and bushes. Mr. Pennant conjectures this fortress was the Castle Bere, committed to the custody of Robert Fitzwalter, who ob

• Aikin's Journal of a Tour, &c. p. 61.

tained

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