seen during our former visit there. The town we found somewhat improved; but here and there a delicate dimple in the façade of some large building betrayed the handiwork of our 18-pounders, and an unroofed house confessed the desolating visit of a 13-inch shell. The inhabitants, who certainly had as much cause to hate as to love us, thronged the streets at our approach, and greeted us with the greatest civility. Indeed there was almost cordiality in their usual vociferated salutation of " Râm râm." Those of our party who had not been at the siege were much struck by the fine stature and martial appearance of the men. In truth their persons and habits differ most distinctly from those of the delicately-formed, languid, and apathetic Bengalee; and nothing can be more becoming than their padded green frock and trouser, red cummerbund, and rakishly-put-on scarlet turban.

The ditch of the citadel looked as formidable as ever, and is still full of water; but the stupendous cavaliers and bastions, both of the citadel and town, are wofully shaken and crumbled by the mines which our government judged expedient to apply to these monuments of human industry.

The young Rajah gave a dinner in the evening to the Commander-in-Chief, and entertained us with nautches and mimics. This latter amusement, which appears to be the only approach to dramatic exhibition among the Indians, is, generally speaking, a tissue of noisy, vulgar ribaldry; but it is sometimes amusing, even to Europeans. I remember one occasion on which the Begum Sumroo entertained our party with a similar patomime, when we were much diverted. It was just after the capture of Bhurtpore. The dramatis personæ of the scene enacted were an English prize-agent, and a poor peasant of Bhurtpore. The former wore an immense cocked-hat and sword, the latter was stark naked, with the exception of a most scanty dootee, or waistcloth. The prize-agent stops him, and demands his jewels and money. The half-starved wretch protests his poverty, and appeals to his own miserable appearance as

the proof. The Englishman, upon this, makes him a furious speech, well garnished with G-d d-ns, seizes on the trembling Bhurtporean, and, determined not to leave him without having extracted something from him, takes out a pair of scissors, cuts off his long shaggy hair close to his skull, crams it into his pocket, and exit, swearing.

The next day we had a very bad day's shooting in the royal rumnah, or preserve,, during which we witnessed an ingenious method of snaring the antelope. A strong buck is trained to fight, and, being furnished with a series of thong-nooses on his horns and neck, is loosed whenever a herd is in sight. Whilst the hunters lie hid, the trained antelope approaches the herd: the most chivalrous buck of the party comes out to meet the intruder on the sanctity of his harem: they fight, and the stranger, having entangled his horns, is soon secured by the chasseurs.

In the evening we took out some hawks in boats on the jheel, or lake, which supplies the town and fort-ditch with water, and killed with them a great quantity of water-fowl.

Jan. 11th.-Marched through Bhurtpore, 13 miles, to the village of Russoulpore. On this spot, two years ago, the army halted the day preceding its arrival before the fortress, our advanced parties having driven out of the village a picquet of the enemy's horse. The next day we reached Muttra, and Head-quarters occupied the same encamping ground that it covered in 1826.

Muttra is a considerable military station, and a place of great sanctity among the Hindoos. The next morning the Commander-in-Chief reviewed the brigade of three regiments of infantry, two regiments of cavalry, and some artillery. This day being the anniversary of the capture of Bhurtpore, his Excellency gave a dinner to all those of the station who were present on the occasion, about 35 persons. The party was conducted with much spirit, and the slain were thrice slain with great effect towards the small hours.

A very interesting beggar besought charity at the door of my tent the following day. He said he had been a sepoy

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in the service of the famous George Thomas, and had been cut up by the cavalry of Scindia, the Mahratta chief. They certainly had used their swords upon the poor fellow to some purpose. His left hand was cut off at the wrist, and two joints of all the fingers of the other: at the back of his head there was a deep fissure, from the crown to the ear; and a profound trench across his cheek confessed the temper of the blade, and of the cavalier who inflicted it. He had also two shots through the legs, but was nevertheless, at least, as well as could be expected. He had a healthy countenance and stout limbs. The history of his former master, George Thomas, presents a fine example of the eventful and chequered life of an ambitious, daring, but low-born man. As far as I can collect, he came out to India before the mast, in those times so advantageous to a bold adventurer, when every petty province was racked by both external wars and civil commotions; served several native chiefs, and eventually set up for himself. He made himself master of the province of Hurriana, Hissar being his capital, and was finally crushed by Perron, the French general of the Mahratta. His strength and dexterity were so great, that it is said he could strike off a bullock's head with one blow of his sword.

Jan. 21st.-Started on our route towards Delhi, which is about ten marches from Muttra.

23rd.-Encamped at Allyghur, a small military station. Visited the fort, which is undergoing repairs in the European style of fortification. It is a small place, but of great strength, as was sufficiently attested by the loss sustained by Lord Lake in its storm and capture in 1803. It was then in possession of the Mahrattas, and defended by the French General Perron. This adventurous people had at that time, assisted by the discipline and countenance of France, seized Delhi, and several strong places on our frontiers. The only vulnerable point of Allyghur, surrounded as it was by a ditch as wide and deep as a second-rate river in England, was the causeway of the gate. Perron's advice to cut it through being neglected by the garrison, it was

carried, after considerable loss on our part, by a coup-demain, the governor taken, and 200 men killed.

On one of the faces of the work the ditch is so wide, that a bevy of wild ducks, swimming in the middle, were out of shot from either scarp or counter-scarp.

After four days' marching, during which we had excellent partridge, hare, and wild-fowl shooting, we reached on the 29th Belaspore, the jaghire of Colonel Skinner, the commander of that distinguished corps of irregular cavalry styled "Skinner's Horse."

His house is handsome and spacious; and in the centre of a flourishing garden (to such an extent does he carry his ideas of luxury) the comfortable old soldier has erected to himself an elegant and snug-looking mausoleum. It will be well for him if he has made equally provident arrangements for the good of his soul, as he has for the comfort of his body, both before and after death. Visited his indigo factory, and the little fort erected by himself for the protection of his property. He can mount some 20 guns on its bastions. The hospitable owner, not content with entertaining the Commander-in-Chief's party with dinner and native amusements, gave a grand feast to all the camp, servants and followers included.

The next day four of us, having sent on our elephants and guns to the covert-side, galloped to a famous sporting jungle about 8 miles from Belaspore. We shot all day; but our bag was inconsiderable, for, being unaccustomed to fire from the backs of elephants (which to a tyro is very difficult), we scarcely killed one in 10 shots. Ten brace of black partridges, 4 brace of hares, and 1 boar, was the extent of our sport. The boar was a very fine one, but he was unhappily much disfigured by the discipline he underwent from my elephant. He was wounded mortally, but, the other elephants being afraid of him, mine was urged to approach, rushed towards him, and, standing over the furious beast, commenced a violent shuffling motion, which almost dislocated me from my seat. On looking over the side of the houdah I saw the poor boar flying to and fro in

mid air between the fore and hind legs of my elephant, who, after keeping him thus "in chancery" (as they would term this process in the ring) for about half a minute, gave the coup-de-grace by a coup-de-pied in the ribs. This I afterwards found to be a common practice of elephants. Mahouts have often some difficulty in preventing them from performing the same gibleting operation on even small game.

After the chasse we mounted our horses, and galloped across country 17 miles to the camp, which had continued its march.

31st,- -a frost,--therm. 6 A.M. 29°! Camp moved to the neighbourhood of Putpergunge, 3 miles from Delhi, On this spot, hallowed by the blood of many of our countrymen, was fought, 25 years ago, the battle of Delhi. Lord Lake, after the capture of Allyghur, marched here, and, with an army of 4500 men, overthrew the forces of Scindia under the French General Perron, amounting to 13,000 infantry and 6000 horse. Sixty-eight pieces of cannon were taken from the enemy. After this victory the British general entered the city, from the towers of which his achievements had been witnessed, and restored the unfortunate and sight-bereaved Shah Alaum to the throne of his ancestors. The battles of Delhi and Laswaree by General Lake, and those of Assaye and Argaum by Sir Arthur Wellesley, put an end to the Mahratta war, and annihilated French power in India.

This evening Mirza Selim, youngest son of the Emperor of Delhi, came forth from the city to greet the approach of the Commander-in-Chief. He is a stout young man, with a handsome and dignified countenance, worthy of his great progenitors.

Feb. 1st. The camp crossed the Jumna, and was pitched near the Cashmere gate of Delhi.

Breakfasted and dined with Sir Edward Colebrooke, the British Resident. His palace is an extensive building, with a fine garden: the latter, through which we passed in our