temperature to occur in the space of 8 hours, and in weather uniformly fair and unclouded. It might be supposed that such sudden variations of the atmosphere would be extremely prejudicial to the health of those exposed to them. I am, however, convinced that there are few climates more congenial to the European constitution than that enjoyed in the upper provinces of India during the months of November, December, and January. Were it not for the regular annual recurrence of this bracing and invigorating season, the parching sirocco of the "hot winds" and the miasmatic exhalations of "the rains" would, no doubt, quickly rid India of its European pos

sessors.

At Ghurmuktesur, Mr. or rather Major -9 who had marched with the camp from Delhi, took leave of us, and in him we have lost a most entertaining and instructive companion. His history and appearance equally declare him to be a character. He is a man of considerable talents and acquirements, and holds a high post under Government in the civil service of the Honourable Company. In this capacity his pen is said to have proved as trenchant as his sword is known to be in his second character of Major in a regiment of irregular cavalry. His countenance is remarkably handsome and intelligent, and much set off by his black beard and mustachios. At the siege of Bhurtporewhere the Major distinguished himself and was wounded— this ornament was of much more luxuriant growth, flowing down upon his breast; but subsequent to that period, a depilatory mandate from the Supreme Government was fulminated against himself and other civilians, who, with less reason, indulged in this military decoration, and he was constrained (in the spirit of these half-batta times) to reduce the exuberant proportions of his beard; his fostering another crop looks very like bearding the Government.

Major

is a great sportsman, and of the noblest He spurns the idea of securely butchering the tyrants of the desert from the turreted back of an elephant,

and encounters the lion and tiger on horseback with spear and sword. He describes this species of sport, particularly with the king of brutes, as the only hunting worthy of a man. Indeed, there is a combination of courage, strength, and dexterity required which few sportsmen are able to bring into the field.

The Major employs sometimes an hour or more in destroying his game, riding swiftly round in a circle, alternately approaching and retreating, and gradually narrowing the ring, until at length his furious antagonist becomes so confused and fatigued by his own exertions as to enable him to gallop past and deliver his spear. In these encounters he prefers the large country horse to the Arab, as being generally better on his haunches and more powerful.

He is known to have, on one occasion, encountered on foot and slain a lion; but as he is not one of those who perform doughty deeds merely for the pleasure of recounting them, I could never cheat him out of a description of his combat with the king of the desert. Athough he is so fond of, and excellent in, these manly exercises, Mr. -'s diet is ultra-Hindoo, as he seldom eats meat, and never touches wine.

CHAPTER VII.

Rohilcund― Amroah - Moradabad — Passage of the Ram-Gunga - Rampore -Futtygunge - Bareilly - Dougan's Horse-Burra-Muttana

Jellah

abad - Falconry - Left bank of Ganges - Futtyghur - The Hakim Mendes -Sixth Local Horse Anecdotes of the battle of Setabuldree.

Dec. 1st.-The camp crossed the Ganges-the horses, camels, and equipages performing the passage in boats, and the elephants swimming the stream. The ferry presented a glorious scene of bustle and confusion, the horses fighting like tigers in the boats, and even kicking each other into the water; camels roaring and blubbering, and resisting every effort, soothing or forcible, of their serwâns

to induce them to embark; and when some of these ungainly though useful brutes were persuaded to emulate the fabled bear, they not unfrequently blundered in on one side the boat, and out on the other into the river; where they stood answering with helpless bellowings the execrations of the serwâns and maungees, who, equally helpless, quickly resorted to mutual recrimination, followed by a brisk fusillade of abuse, of which the fathers, mothers, and even collateral kindred of the principals, were sure to come in for their full share.

The trajet of the elephant, that "wisest of beasts," is the most easily effected. The sage animal, on arriving at the river-side, is divested of his burthen, which is sent across in the boats; on a hint from the mohaut he steps into the stream and wades or swims through the element in which he delights, and on the other bank again patiently receives his load. In swimming, the elephant's trunk is alone seen above water. The mohaut directs his course kneeling or standing on his back.

Soon after our arrival in camp a party of 9 started with a line of 16 elephants to try for a tiger; but our endeavours were completely frustrated by the extreme thickness of the covert. We did not get sight of a tiger the whole day, although on several occasions the elephants showed by their uneasiness that we were close upon one, and we found their footmarks on the sand of every rivulet. We had, however, very tolerable sport with deer, wild-hogs, and black game.

Two days after, we encamped under the walls of the Mussulman town of Amroah, which, though now in ruins, bears the appearance of having been formerly a large and populous city. The country in the immediate neighbourhood is spread out in wide tracts of cultivation, and extensive groves of fine trees; amongst which are scattered here and there the picturesque remnants of mosques and tombs, memorials of the once warlike and powerful Patâns. As we rode past the walls, amongst the numerous groups of the idle inhabitants, who assembled to gaze at the English cavalcade, I scarcely saw a single Hindoo. The gay rai

ment of the Mahommedan, with its various and flaunting colours, appears to great advantage over the plain white garb of the less showy disciple of Brahma, more particularly in groups. The walls of Amroah and the road-side were dotted with little parties of these graceful blackguards, who stood, sat, and lounged in attitudes as natural to their supple forms and elegant drapery, as they are incompatible with the stiff joints and stiffer costume of English figures. Each group appeared as if it had been previously drilled by some posture-maker for a “tableau." An experienced eye may readily distinguish individuals of the two sects Mussulman and Hindoo, by a certain rakish, devil may care" air in the former, strongly contrasting with the placid and orderly demeanour of the latter tribe. In some instances, however, where the dress and manners may have gradually assimilated, there is still preserved one characteristic mark -the vest of the Islamite is uniformly open on the left breast, and that of the Hindoo on the right.

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From Amroah two marches, through a pretty country abundantly provided with shady groves, brought us to the town of Moradabad. It is a considerable place, and the streets and bazaars are better scavenged than most native towns are. The population is almost exclusively Mahommedan. The English cantonment, in which a native infantry regiment is quartered, is prettily situated amid luxuriant trees, round an open parade-ground. The chief duty of the troops is the guard of the goal, wherein there are incarcerated no fewer than 1800 native convicts. These are

condemned to work, in chains, on the roads: but I fancy their labours do not extend much beyond the gravel walks of the magistrate's garden, for the roads through which we have jolted for the last 3 days seem perfect strangers to the spade and pickaxe.

In the evening I strolled to see a house near the town, which, many years ago, as I was informed, proved the city of refuge to the Europeans of this station. Mr. Leicester was collector of revenue at Moradabad, and at this isolated spot was only supported by 5 companies of sepoys; when

one night the cantonments were surprised by a sudden attack of some thousand Mahratta cavalry, headed by the famous Holkar in person. Mr. L. threw himself, with his sepoys, into this fortified house, which was fortunately provided with a deep ditch and a wall flanked with miniature bastions, and had just time to secure himself in his little stronghold when it was beset by the enemy. The garrison succeeded in keeping the besiegers at bay, until Holkar, hearing of the near approach of Lord Lake, who was in pursuit of him, was obliged to draw off his troops from the blockade.

The following morning Head-quarters, pursuing its flying tour, passed the river Ram-Gunga, and encamped 6 miles from its left bank. This little stream proved quite a Berisina to our camp-followers; though the scene of confusion on its banks was rather mirth-provoking than horror-striking. The only boat had been rendered useless by a camel having put its foot through the bottom: kuranshees and hackeries,* full of women and baggage, were sticking fast in the quicksands; and many of them, capsized in the river, poured forth their contents, living or inanimate, into the water: whilst the ladies themselves-unused to play the naiadpicked their way, with well-uplifted pyjamas,† to terra firma, reviling in no very choice terms the awkwardness of their garreewâns (charioteers), which had exposed their well-curtained charms to the vulgar gaze, and their silken dresses and tender limbs to the chilling stream-and on a December morning.

I remained behind on my elephant to witness "the fun," and had the satisfaction of seeing my property, carried on the backs of camels-well styled the " ships of the desert," accomplish the passage, high and dry; whilst sundry cart-loads of office records and other impedimenta were immersed in the deep.

The portion of Rohilcund through which we are now journeying is watered by many streams, and much adorned + Trowsers.

*Native vehicles.