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eager look-out for novelties of any kind. We were, therefore, one day—more especially the naturalists of the party -put on the qui vive of expectation by the arrival of a native of the more northern mountains, who reported that he had lately caught an unicorn, and that it was only 3 marches off. Of course all were anxious to see the rare and hitherto-believed fabulous animal; and some went so far as to declare their intention of purchasing it, at whatever price, and sending it, with a fine male lion, to the king of England, as an appropriate present. Two days after, the unicorn's arrival was reported, and eagerly hastening, pencil and paper in hand, to the spot, where a crowd was assembled, I discovered—a fine fat sheep-no more! He was, indeed, literally an unicorn, for his horns were curiously grown together into one, an almost imperceptible line marking the division. It grew curving backwards over the animal's head, and would have entered the spine had the point not been sawed off. The soidisant unicorn would, no doubt, have made very respectable mutton, though he would have proved but a tame supporter of the arms of England.

Sept. 15th.-Having 6 weeks more to enjoy the hills, Lord Combermere resolved to devote a month to a tour in the more unfrequented parts of the country, and to visit one of the grand passes in the Snowy Belt.

Two parties being formed, it was agreed that Colonel Dawkins, Baron Osten (16th Lancers), and myself, should start on the 24th, for the pass of Shattoul; and Lord Combermere, Captain Kennedy, and 3 others, will soon after migrate towards the Borenda pass.

During the remainder of our stay at Simla my journal records little else but an uninteresting routine of rambles among the valleys, occasional trips to Subbâtoo, and a few picnic expeditions to a mountain 12 miles north of Simla.

On one occasion, however, the quiet inhabitants were drawn out of their houses by the appearance of a numerous and picturesque group of cavaliers, winding up the mountain-road towards the town. They proved to be an em

bassy from Runjeet Singh of Lahore to the Commander-inChief; bringing presents of a dozen very neatly-worked hand punkahs, or fans, made of ivory and sandal-wood, with filigree gold handles. The rest of the Maha-Rajah's offering was more weighty than valuable, consisting of no less than 35 maunds of almonds and dried fruits.

On another occasion the English of Simla were put into a general ferment by an occurrence which—as we are only supposed to hold our supremacy in India by "the force of opinion ❞—is, fortunately, almost without a parallel in our annals. Two Mussulman-sepoys, belonging to a corps of irregular horse in the service of the Company, conceiving themselves (as it afterwards proved, without cause) to have been insulted by an English officer of artillery who was living at Simla in bad health, determined on vengeance; and dogging him to an unfrequented part of the road, assaulted him in the most brutal manner, striking him several times on the head and face with the heels of their shoes (the greatest indignity that a native can inflict or suffer), and otherwise seriously maltreating him. It is impossible to say to what extremities they might not have proceeded in their rage, had they not been interrupted by a lady, who, hearing of the affair from one of her servants (the man passing the scene of action without an attempt at interference), hastily and heroically repaired to the spot with her attendants, and rescued the officer when he was quite exhausted by the ill-treatment he had received. Though the young Englishman was of rather small stature and in bad health, the sepoys on their appearance before the court-martial presented a pretty severe illustration of the power of a pair of English fists, even against odds of two to one. A closed eye of one of the prisoners, and a dislodged tooth of the other, confessed the efficiency of the young bombardier's battery. One of the sepoys was a tall, lathy fellow; the other a most ferocious-looking ruffian, short, but square-shouldered and muscular.

The Bhisty, who reported the conflict to his mistress, was an important witness; he was a man of uncommon

muscular strength-as most of his arduous trade are,— and looked as if he could have killed and eat both the defendants without difficulty. When asked by the JudgeAdvocate, why he did not assist the Sahib ? he said, with the characteristic apathy of a Hindoo, "I am a poor man; I was carrying my mussuck; * it never entered into my head. The sentence of the court was 800 lashes and dismission from the service, which was duly inflicted. The long rascal yelled under the "cat;" the short ruffian bore his punishment bravely.

CHAPTER V.

Khôtghur-Fargoo - Parellee-Tour in the Surmour mountains- Khotekie-Koopa mountain - Jubul - Deora Saree - Rooroo - Mountain tour

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Sept. 24th.-IN the afternoon I started, with Colonel Dawkins and the Baron Osten, on our tour to the Snowy Mountains, with the further intention of crossing the pass, and returning towards Simla by the valley of the Sutledge.

Our travelling equipage consisted of 2 small but convenient and warm tents, with a pâl for our servants and batterie de cuisine ambulante; 3 ponies, 2 mules, and a jâmpaun for the transport of our persons; and a small stock of sheep, milch-goats, claret (for nothing can be done in India without lâl sherâb), port, spirits, and spices. With these appliances we hoped to be able to rough it pretty comfortably.

Our first day's stage was on the Khôtghur road, and we took up our quarters at the travellers' bungalow at Fargoo, an edifice by no means remarkable, unless it be for a rather

* Sheepskin water-bag.

[graphic]

the Hymalaia Mountains. London. Pab 3 by John Murray 1952.

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