Lieut. Pullen, with his boats, arrived at the mouth of the Mackenzie on the 27th August, having made the passage from Wainwright's Inlet in thirty-three days. The most difficult part of the voyage was off Cape Bathurst, very heavy hummocky ice being met with. "It was one continued struggle from the 25th July to the 5th of August to get along that ice, it being so close in, and we were cutting all the time." Portions of his examination by the committee are of value. The accounts so far were discouraging | reached Port Clarence, and left that port on enough; but the Admiralty resolved that the 10th July, to renew her explorations to the search should be renewed and on a yet north-east. more extended scale. The ships of Sir James Ross were promptly refitted and despatched to Behring's Strait; the Enterprise commanded by Capt. Collinson, and the Investigator by M'Clure. They were instructed to sail with all speed, so as to pass the strait and reach the edge of the ice by the end of August. The Plover was to remain out, and be secured in a safe harbor as far in advance as practicable, to serve as a depôt for parties from the other ships to fall back upon if necessary. The Herald, under Capt. Kellett was to be sent home, volunteers being received from her for the other ships. This expedition left Plymouth on the 20th January, 1850. The ships communicated with the Herald, and Kellett assures the Arctic Committee of 1851, that, from a conversation he had with M'Clure I am convinced that he will use every endeavor to reach Melville Island with his parties, if he failed with his ship. Should one of these parties reach Melville Island, or even the northern shore of Banks' Land, they will endeavor to get home by the east, being a safer route than attempting to return to their ships. This statement is confirmed by the official and private letters of M'Clure. To Sir George Back, in particular, he states in a letter of July 28, 1850, that he has carte blanche from Collinson, and that he is determined to push to the eastward to reach 130° W. long., and take his chance of wintering in the pack wherever he may be caught by the ice. These brave commanders had no sooner joined the Plover than they earnestly set to work to fulfil their mission. M'Clure outsailed Collinson, and was last seen by the Plover (August, 1850), in lat. 70° 44′ N. long., 159° 52 W. M'Clure calculated that he might make Banks' Land, get to the northward of Melville Island, and perhaps pass to the S.E. by Wellington Channel, or some other passage, so as to return home at latest in 1853. To the Admiralty he says that, should he find no navigable channel after pushing ahead for two seasons, he intends to desert his vessel on the third, and start on foot for Melville Island and Leopold Harbor. It is impossible not to admire his energy and daring. But knowing how completely the plans of the most able and resolute are at the mercy of the seasons in those latitudes, we cannot accept his courage as a pledge of his success, nor avoid feeling already some misgivings for his fate. Capt. Collinson, after penetrating some distance to the N. and E. of the strait, repassed it to winter at Hong Kong, the Plover being left in reserve at Port Clarence, in the strait. The Enterprise again quitted Hong Kong in May, 1851, Capt. Beechy Did you see any land to the northward during your voyage? No. Sir G. Back: There seems a remarkable with Sir John Franklin, viz., that on the 15th difference when you were there, and when I was August, 1826, there was a complete open sea, with the exception of one piece of ice to the north and west. What was its state when you were there? It was all ice to seaward, and along the coast east and west. Pullen in his boats ascended the Mackenzie, and reached Fort Simpson on the 13th of October. Here he wintered, and while on his way to York Factory the following spring received instructions by express to attempt a passage in boats, across the sea to Melville Island. He immediately hurried back, and, on being supplied with 4500 lbs. of jerked venison and pemmican by Rae, he descended the Mackenzie in one of the Plover's boats and a barge of the Hudson's Bay Company. The season of 1850 proved more severe, however, than that of the previous year; he found the sea from the Mackenzie to Cape Bathurst covered with unbroken ice, a small channel only existing in-shore, through which he threaded his way to the vicinity of the cape. Failing in finding a passage out to sea to the north of Cape Bathurst, he remained in its vicinity, watching the ice for an opening, until the approach of winter compelled him to return to the Mackenzie. He had reached the sea on the 22nd of July, and he did not quit it until the 1st of September. As he ascended the Mackenzie, ice was driving rapidly down. “It was one continued drift of ice and heavy snow-storms." He reached Fort Simpson on the 5th October, and arrived in England to take the cominand of the North Star, and join in the expedition under Sir E. Belcher. To conclude here the researches from the North American coast Mr. Rae left Fort Confidence, on the Coppermine, April the 25th, 1851, with four men and three sledges drawn by dogs. He reached the coast on the 1st of May, and found the ice favorable for travelling. On the 5th he landed at Douglas The These Island, and on the 7th gained the opposite | found in that direction, as he was ignorant of shore. Traversing it to the east, until he the complete survey of the bottom of the gulf reached 110° W. long., where his survey met by Rae, and might have imagined that a that of Dease and Simpson, he retraced his passage thence, as was generally surmised steps, and advanced west until he turned when he sailed, led into the Polar Sea. Cape Baring, past lat 70°, and long. 117° W. Felix, commanded by Sir John Ross, was From some elevated ground in this neighbor- equipped by subscription, under the auspices hood high land could be seen to the north, of the Hudson's Bay Company. An American but none was visible to the west. He got expedition of two schooners, fitted out by Mr. back to his provision station on the Kendal Henry Grinnell, of New York, was to pass River upon the 10th June, having travelled through Lancaster Sound, and push to the 824 geographical or 942 English miles in forty west. Lastly, the North Star, sent out the days. In this lengthened journey his ar- previous year, to recruit the Enterprise and rangements were much the same as during Investigator, remained in the Arctic Sea with his survey of Committee Bay. He slept in a large quantity of available stores. snow houses, and, as he advanced, buried vessels, though sailing at different times, were provisions to serve for his return. In the all stopped by the middle ice of Baffin's Bay, month of July and August he explored the and got through it at nearly the same period. coast of Victoria Land, east and north, in The first traces of the missing ships were boats. His delineation of the land to Point discovered by Captain Ommaney, in the AsPelly, on the western shore of Victoria sistance, at Cape Riley, on 23d August. He Strait, is carefully laid down in Arrowsmith's found sundry pieces of rag, rope, and broken map. That red line, marking every indenta- bottles, and also the marks of five tent-places. tion of the coast, from the 101st to the 117th This Cape is a point at the eastern entrance degree of latitude, accomplished with limited of Wellington Channel; about three miles means in a single season, is an achievement west of it rises the bold abrupt coast of Beechof which any officer might well be proud. ey Island; and between the shores of this On this newly discovered coast he met many parties of Esquimaux; but his inquiries as to the grand subject were all fruitless. The American coast has now been diligently examined, from the entrance of Behring's Strait to the head of Hudson's Bay; and we may, therefore, surely conclude that Franklin never reached so low a latitude. isle and the mainland lies a bay to which extraordinary interest is now attached. On its coast were observed numerous sledge tracks, and at Cape Spencer, about ten miles from Cape Riley, up Wellington Channel, the party discovered the ground-place of a tent, the floor neatly paved with small smooth stones. Around the tent a number of birds' bones, as well as remnants of meat-canisters, led Mr. Penny to imagine that it had been inhabited for some time as a shooting station and a look-out place, for which latter purpose it was admirably chosen, commanding a good view of Barrow's strait and Wellington Channel. Osborn, p. 102. Some sledge-tracks led northward for about twenty miles, but the trail ceased south of Cape Bowden, and an empty bottle and a piece of newspaper were the last things found. The results of examining Beechey Island must be given in more detail. says Lieutenant Osborn On the side of Baffin's Bay the search was prosecuted by no less than eleven vessels in 1850. The expedition under Captain Austin consisted of the Resolute and Assistance, with their steam-tenders the Pioneer and Intrepid. He was instructed that his main object should be to reach Melville Island-detaching vessels to examine Wellington Channel and the coast about Cape Walker, "to which point Sir John Franklin was ordered to proceed." At the same time much having been said about the probable advantage of employing old professional whalesmen Mr. William Penny, long experienced in the northern fishery, was empowered by government to purchase two small brigs, adapted for the service they A long point of land slopes gradually from the were to perform. All arrangements were southern bluffs of this now deeply-interesting left to himself, and he had the choice of his island, until it almost connects itself with the own officers. But, clumsily enough, instead land of North Devon, forming on either side of it of distinct objects being assigned him, his in- two good and commodious bays. On this slope structions were substantially the same as a multitude of preserved meat-tins were strewed those given to Austin. Penny's ships sailed about; and near them, and on the ridge of the on the 15th April, 1850, and Austin's on the slope, a carefully-constructed cairn was discov4th of May following. The Prince Albert with gravel, and placed to form a firm and solid ered; it consisted of layers of fitted tins, filled was purchased and equipped by public sub-foundation. Beyond this, and along the northscription, Lady Franklin being a principal ern shore of Beechey Island, the following traces contributor. Its special object was to search were then quickly discovered: the embankment the shores of Boothia Gulf, it being thought of a house, with carpenters' and armorers' workpossible that traces of Franklin might be ling-places, washing-tubs, coal-bags, pieces of old clothing, rope-and, lastly, the graves of three of the crew of the Erebus and Terror-bearing date of the winter of 1845-6. We, therefore, now had ascertained the first winter-quarters of Sir John Franklin. will always find it alike; it is the monument raised by rough hands but affectionate hearts over the last home of their messmate; it breathes of the quiet churchyard in some of England's many nooks, where each had formed his idea of what was due to departed worth; and the ornaments that Nature decks herself with, even in the desolation of the frozen zone, were carefully culled to mark the dead seaman's home. The good taste of the officers had prevented the general simplicity of an oaken head and foot board to each of the three graves being marred by any long and childish epitaphs, or the doggrel of a lower-deck poet, and the three inscriptions were as follows: "Sacred to the memory of J. Torrington, who departed this life January 1st, 1816, on board of H. M. S. Terror, aged 20 years." "Sacred to the memory of Wm. Braine, R. M., of H. M. S. Erebus, died April 3d, 1846, aged 32 years. Choose ye this day whom ye will serve. Josh. xxiv. 15." "Sacred to the memory of J. Hartwell, A. B., of H. M. S. Erebus, died January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. Thus saith the Lord of Hosts, consider your ways. Haggai i. 7." On the eastern slope of the ridge of Beechey Island a remnant of a garden (for remnant it now only was, having been dug up in the search) told an interesting tale; its neatly-shaped oval outline the border carefully formed of moss lichen, poppies, and anemones, transplanted from some more genial part of this dreary region contrived still to show symptoms of vitality; but the seeds which doubtless they had sowed in the garden had decayed away. Nearer to the beach, a heap of cinders and scraps of iron showed the armorers' working-place; and along an old water-course, now chained up by frost, several tubs, constructed of the ends of salt-meat casks, left no doubt as to the washing-places of the men of Franklin's squadron. Happening to cross a level piece of ground, which as yet no one had lighted upon, I was pleased to see a pair of Cashmere gloves laid out to dry, with two small stones on the palms to prevent their blowing away; they had been there since 1846. I took them up carefully, as melancholy mementoes of my missing friends. In another spot a flannel was discovered; and this, together with some things lying about, would, in my ignorance of wintering in the Arctic regions, have led me to suppose that there was considerable haste displayed in the departure of the Erebus and Terror from this spot, had not Captain Austin assured me that there was nothing to ground such a belief upon, and that, from experience, With this discovery the work of the ships he could vouch for these being nothing more than for the season may be said to have closed. the ordinary traces of a winter station; and this Wellington Channel, as far as vision extended, opinion was fully borne out by those officers who presented a continuous sheet of ice, much of had in the previous year wintered in Port Leo- it, as we learn from Dr. Sutherland and other pold, one of them asserting that people left experienced persons, appearing "to be at winter-quarters too well pleased to escape, to least three years old." care much for a handful of shavings, an old coal-channel of Barrow's Strait, at the same time (ii. 124.) In midbag, or a washing-tub. This I, from experi- (Aug. 25), the pack was seen to westward, Osborn, pp. 107 ence, now know to be true. 110. From a number of minute facts, it was not difficult to assign the place where the ships must have lain through the winter: they were so stationed, Osborn says, as to be effectually removed from all risk of being swept out of the bay-which, by the by, from the fact of the enclosed area being many times broader than the entrance of Erebus and Terror Bay, was about as probable as any stout gentleman being blown out of a house through the keyhole. The most interesting traces of winter residence were the graves of Franklin's three seamen. The following description is in all respects creditable to Mr. Osborn: The graves, like all that English seamen construct, were scrupulously neat. Go where you will over the globe's surface - afar in the east, or afar in the west, down among the coralgirded isles of the South Sea, or here, where the grim North frowns on the sailor's grave-you I thought I traced in the epitaphs over the graves of the men from the Erebus the manly and Christian spirit of Franklin. In the true spirit of chivalry, he, their captain and leader, led them amidst dangers and unknown difficulties with iron will stamped upon his brow, but the words of meekness, gentleness, and truth were his device. - Ibid., p. 111. but the sea was as smooth as oil; and thousands of -were seen Osborn also dwells upon the enormous shoals 462 The other ships turned homewards. The North Star left her winter-quarters in Wolstenholme Sound on the 3rd of August, and reached Port Leopold on the 12th. Being unable, however, from the ice, to land her stores there, she deposited them at Admiralty Inlet, where, as we have seen, Sir E. Belcher was unable to find any trace of them. The American expedition made a most singular sweep. Lieut. de Haven parted company with the other searching vessels on the 13th of September, off Griffith's Island. But the frost had already set in, and, snow having fallen, the sea was covered with a tenacious coating through which it was impossible for the vessels to force their way. about them thickened they became entirely As the ice at the mercy of the winds and currents. the astonishment of all on board, they were To carried directly up Wellington Channel. Here, drifting about as the wind varied, they came, on the 22nd of September, in sight of that island which in our charts is named Baillie Hamilton. To the north-west was distinctly seen the cloud of "frost-smoke,' indicative of open water, and signs of animal ," life became more abundant. For the remainder of September the vessels were nearly stationary; throughout October and November again they were drifted to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing out of Wellington Channel. On the 1st of November the new ice was upwards of three feet thick. winter, the occupations and amusements most suitable for preserving the crews in health had been persevered in- but sledges and boats with stores were always ready in case of accident, each man being furnished with a bundle of clothes which he could catch up at a moment's notice. conclude that the barrier of ice across WelFrom this extraordinary sweep we must lington Channel, apparently fixed firmly to the land on either side, was really in continual motion. It seems to have been obedient to the wind rather than to any settled current Of these facts our ships, safe in their winterquarters, were entirely ignorant; and when, season, they still saw the entrance of the so late as the 12th of August in the following ice, we cannot feel surprised at their supChannel firmly closed against them by solid posing it to have remained unmoved since the first day of their arrival. Here the principal business of the winter was preparation for the spring journeys. Amusements were not neglected; there were plays and masquerades; and we have more than one admission that the general health of all the men was good; throughout the long winter “hardships there were none." were in both expeditions very complete. The arrangements for the sledging parties Every provision was made for the health and comfort of the men, and whoever glances into the blue-books will acknowledge that Austin most thoroughly fulfilled the duties of a skilful and humane commander. By an arrange plete "search of Wellington Strait," while Still frequent breaks would occur in it often ment with Penny, made as early as 17th in fearful proximity to the vessels. mocks, consisting of massive granite-like blocks, Hum-October, 1850, the latter undertook the comwould be thrown up to the height of twenty and even thirty feet. This action in the ice was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible to be described, but which never failed to carry a feeling of awe into the stoutest hearts. Haven's Report. De Austin's detachments were to examine the shores north and south of Barrow's Strait. The coasts newly explored by these parties are laid down in the charts of Arrowsmith and the Admiralty. We confine our notice likely Franklin, might have taken:-to the to the three routes which it seemed most west by Melville Island, to the south-west by Cape Walker, and to the north-west by Wellington Channel. By the beginning of December the ships were carried down the Channel, and entered Lancaster Sound. Westerly winds now prevailing, the vast field of ice, with the imprisoned ships, slowly drifted to the mouth of the Sound. In January they were fairly launched tenant M'Clintock was most ably and successOf all Austin's parties, that under Lieuin Baffin's Bay, and a steady drift commenced fully conducted. He left the ships on the to the southward, the vessels being carried 15th of April, and, taking a course due west, along with the whole vast body of ice. the 19th of May, Cape Serle was descried, Melville Island on the 11th of May. On the On reached Point Griffith on the eastern shore of being the first land seen for four months; a 21st he sighted Winter Harbor, but there few days later Cape Walsingham was visible, being neither ships, tents, nor any sign of and the ships passed out of the Arctic zone. human habitation to be seen, he deferred any On the 6th of June, the whole immense floe close scrutiny of it until his return. By the in which they had been inextricably locked 27th of May he had reached Cape Dundas at for nearly nine months was rent in all direc- the western extremity of Melville Island, and tions, without violence or noise, leaving not on the following day, ascending a high cliff, a piece exceeding 100 yards in diameter. made out the coast of Banks' Land. Thenceforth the vessels were free, and in due time safely reached New York. During the Its eastern extreme was indistinct; but its To the north of Banks' Land, at a distance from it of about seventy miles, he discovered a range of land apparently running nearly due west. "This does not present steep cliffs, but a bold and deeply indented coast; the land rising to the interior, and intersected by valleys rather than ravines." The sea he imagined to continue to the westward. Following the coast of Melville Island to the north-east, he entered Liddon Gulf, and here saw fragments of coal of good quality. Leaving the shore, he crossed the Gulf to gain Bushman Cove, where Parry, in his journey across the island in 1820, had left the "strong but light cart, ," in which he had carried his tent and stores. On the 1st of June M'Clintock reached the west point of the Cove, and, leaving two men to prepare supper, he commenced a search with four others for Parry's encampment of the 11th of June, 1820: I have never seen any animal in its natural state so perfectly fearless of man; and there cannot be a more convincing proof that our missing countrymen have not been here. A ptarmigan alighted on the rock, and was shot, without in the least disturbing puss as she sat beneath it. - Ibid. On the 6th of June M'Clintock left Winter Harbor, and reached the ships on the 4th of July. The latter part of his journey was fatiguing, from the extensive pools of water in the ice, but all his men arrived in excellent health and spirits. He was out 80 days, and had travelled 770 miles. Several reindeer, musk-oxen, and bears were shot, besides numerous birds—and the food thus obtained was of very material importance to the people. This journey made it certain that Franklin had not passed west of the Parry Islands. The expedition under Captain Ommaney and Lieut. Osborn south-west of Cape Walker determined nothing. The cape was found to be the north-eastern extremity of an island, separated from the continent by a narrow channel. Beyond the cape the coast swept round to the south, until interrupted by a bay about 20 miles wide. While Ommaney proOn reaching the ravine leading into the cove, ceeded to examine the shores of this bay Oswe spread across, and walked up, and easily born struck across it, and making the land found the encampment, although the pole had fallen down. The very accurate report pub- again, which still trended southerly, he follished of his journey saved us much labor in lowed it some miles further, and then travelled finding the tin cylinder and ammunition. The a few miles across the sea to the west. But, crevices between the stones piled over them were after a short journey, finding the ice exceedfilled with ice and snow; the powder completely ingly hummocky, he retraced his steps. From destroyed, and cylinder eaten through with rust, his farthest point he saw a continuation of and filled with ice. From the extreme difficulty land to the south, but could perceive neither of descending into such a ravine with any land nor loom of land to the west or southvehicle, I supposed that the most direct route west. As the weather was clear, and he had where all seemed equally bad was selected, therefore sent the men directly up the northern bank in search of the wheels which were left where the cart broke down. They fortunately found them at once; erected a cairn about the remains of the wall built to shelter the tent; placed a record on it in one tin case within another. We then collected a few relics of our predecessors, and returned with the remains of the cart to our encampment. An excellent fire had been made with willow stems, and upon this a kettle, containing Parry's cylinder, was placed. As soon as the ice was thawed out of it, the record it contained was carefully taken out. I could only just distinguish the date. Had it been in a better state of preservation I would have restored it to its lonely position. — Ibid. As the weather was misty, M'Clintock did not explore the head of the gulf, but struck directly across the land for Winter Harbor. It was evident that no one had visited the place since Parry's departure in 1820. The inscription cut upon the face of the sandstone rock by Mr. Fisher appeared quite fresh. A hare, discovered at the foot of this rock, was so tame that she entered the tent, and would almost allow the men to touch her. a good spy-glass, and as, moreover, he had ad- |