village, and opposite the latter, on a mound on the east bank of the wady, is another village of considerable size, but more ruinous than those within the confines of the rocks. Many other large villages and towns were within sight, and appeared from the distance as if their houses were still standing. Since the morning light had enabled us to examine more minutely the features of the country through which we travelled, we had observed very distinct traces of a Roman road running in a straight line along the east bank of the Liwa. In some places it is almost perfect; the fine pavement being unbroken by the traffic and wear of centuries. It is most probably a continuation of that which we had seen excavated among the rocks at Burâk. On the south bank of the wady above referred to, as coming in from the east, the road branches—one branch continuing along the side of the Lejah, and the other turning up the long slopes on the left. We were now far in advance of the caravan, and of all our companions, and did not know which way to take: we were consequently compelled to halt. I employed the time profitably in taking bearings and noting the features of the Lejah and mountains at whose northern base we now stood. Galloping to the summit of a tell, I had a fine view over the wilderness of rocks westward; and was no little astonished at the vast numbers of towns and villages within the range of vision. The whole country around was at one time densely populated; every available spot along the sides of the wady, as well as the great plain eastward and the mountain-sides above us, bears the marks of former careful cultivation. The surface of the soil is in some places very strong, but the stones have been collected into

heaps, and many of them used in the erection of fences; the intervening soil is rich and loamy. On the east bank of the Liwa, the ground, from this place southward, rises up with an easy and uniform slope to the heights at Shŭka ; and likewise on the southern side of the wady that comes in from the eastward there is a gentle ascent to the same place from the broad plain; this is the commencement of the Jebel Haurân.

After twenty minutes delay an old man rode up to us and directed us in the road to Hiyât. We did not consider it necessary to wait upon the caravan or our guide, more especially as the rain was falling heavily, and a cold wind blowing in our faces. The road we were directed to follow led south by east up the easy slopes, which are here bleak enough, not a tree or a shrub to diversify the naked scenery. The soil is extremely fertile; but as the basaltic rock occasionally crops over it, and large boulders and broken fragments lie scattered thinly over its surface, the whole has a ragged and forbidding aspect. And there were no grand features to relieve the monotony. The mountain summits in front were concealed by the heavy drifting clouds; while to the right and left no object was visible save the rounded peaks of Tell Sheihân and Tell Khaledîyeh, peeping over the white mist that enveloped their bases.

After ascending about three-quarters of an hour, and surmounting a little eminence, we began to observe the first signs of modern cultivation; and we also obtained our first view of the village of Hiyât, standing upon the hillside above us like a huge fortress. On our left, also, we saw several castle-like villages, some on the summits of

tells and others at their bases. The signs of life and industry now appeared in the fields on every side. Numerous yokes of oxen were engaged in turning up the fertile soil, with ploughs which are no doubt exact counterparts of those used in the days of the patriarchs, and by the subjects of the mighty Og, whose ancient kingdom we were traversing. It will be seen from the accompanying

sketch, which I took upon the spot, that no improvement can have been made in the plough since those early days, as a more simple instrument could not possibly be devised. The ploughman, too, still carries his goad-a weapon apparently more fitted for the hand of the soldier than the peaceful husbandman. That here figured is of the "oak of Bashan," and measured upwards of ten feet in length. At one end was an iron spear, and at the other a piece of the same metal flattened. One can well understand how a warrior might use such a weapon with effect in the

battle-field; and after seeing and handling this excellent specimen I did not think it so very wonderful that Shamgar, the Israelitish judge, should have slain six hundred men with an ox-goad.3

At 8.30 we reached the village of Hiyât, and rode at once to the sheikh's house, where we were received with

great distinction, We simply announced ourselves as Englishmen, and this was sufficient to open to us the heart and home of the noble Druze. Our horses were taken and fed; the reception-room was refitted with clean mats and cushions from the harîm; and, what was more acceptable than all, a good fire of charcoal was kindled upon the hearth. Coffee was produced, roasted, pounded, and presented with all due formality. The conversation gradually turned upon the all-engrossing topic, the recent war, and the probability of its renewal. This was the very subject we wished to avoid until we had seen one of the principal sheikhs and presented our letters of introduction. Feigning anxiety about Mr. and Nikôla, who had ridden on before us, and whom we had not yet seen, I left the apartment to make inquiries. The sheikh, hearing my questions, at once sent two or three men in search of them, who soon came back with the intelligence that they had passed on to Hît without stopping. I now expressed a desire to see the various ruins of the village; and a young Druze offered to act as my guide. I accepted his offer gladly, being anxious to avoid the questions of the sheikh, and no less so to commence an inspection of ruins so remarkable in themselves, and so interesting from the historic associations connected with the country.

Hiyât is built on the gentle slope of the hill-side, in the form of a quadrangle, and is somewhat less than a mile in circumference. The houses are all constructed of roughly hewn stones, uncemented, but closely jointed. They are massive and simple in their plan, giving evidence of remote antiquity. The present inhabitants have selected the most convenient and comfortable chambers, and in these have settled down without alterations or additions. The roofs are all of stone, like those of Burâk, and so also are the doors; but I observed in one or two places that the stone doors had been removed and wooden ones substituted. There is no structure in the village with any pretension to architectural beauty; but on the eastern side, near a large tank, there are ruins with fragments of ornamented cornices and pediments: these are now so completely destroyed that it is impossible to ascertain even the plan of the original building. From a stone near it I copied the following inscription. It is on a handsome tablet, and the letters are beautifully formed:-

A BEI BOCAY
ΜΟΥ ΚΑΙΑΕ
AOC KAIAYMOC

YIOICABAOY
ΘΙΟΥΤΟ ΙΙΙΙΙ

ΟΝ ΠΟΙΗCAN

"Abeibus the son of Aumus, and Aëdus and Aumus the sons of Sabaus, erected this memorial to their uncle."

It will be observed that the names on this monumental tablet, and on almost all the others found in this province, are Syriac or Hebraic in their character. There was another short inscription in this building, and I saw several on the houses in the centre of the village; but as I had