lapidated walls built of mud bricks dried in the sun. Wherever there is cultivation the fields are irrigated by means of " seges" or canals conducting through them the waters of the Rimae.

part of the Verandah, her head, of course, pushes out the swinging shutter at the bottom, and she has a comfortable view of all that is going on up and down the street. Beneath these Verandahs there We shall, however, find more interest in the liv-generally opens a broad paved entrance to the ing beings animating this road: troops of donkeys court-yard around which the house is built, and on transporting their cargoes to an fre; one drove, fol- each side of the entrance, on business streets, are lowed by six negro soldiers bearing lances with a the shops and stores. The dwelling houses of the small red flag at their end, is carrying specie to the better class are quite elegant establishments, but port for exportation. Horsemen are dashing along are not so built as to give any beauty to the streets. in Peruvian costume, a broad-brimmed Guiaquil grass On the line of the street is built a high, thick wall, hat and a "pontjo," or large cape of cloth, fringed square at the top, with a narrow cornice: through around the border, sometimes embroidered, or vari- this open massive double gates almost as lofty as egated with gay stripes; a hole through the centre the wall, and thickly studded with large brass admits the head, and the pontjo falls over the should- knobs. These gates open into a passage-way ten ers nearly as low as the knees. The stirrups are or twelve feet long, the wall on either hand being large, triangular blocks of wood, elaborately car- | decorated with a coarse painting, of the size of life, ved, and some of them bound and tipped with silver: from some sacred or classical scene. This pasthe opening for the reception of the foot passes sage way opens beneath a lofty arch into the square only partly through this block: the spurs are not paved court-yard, called “ Patio," enclosed by the less singular, being heavy masses of metal, the body and wings of the building. The principal rowel projecting at least four inches from the heel, and most showy part of the house crosses the court and each spike being an inch or more in length. directly opposite the entrance. A handsome porWe met also many female equestrians, all riding tico fronts the whole of this part, and the front of in that mode which is exclusively monopolized by the house itself is of open fancy iron rail work, gentlemen in our country. These are generally elegantly gilded or bronzed. Although the buildnegro or Indian peasant women. The dress of ing may be but of one story, the rooms are large, the latter is with great uniformity the same: a neat and very lofty. Passing through this part of the shoe, fitting a very small foot, armed with a spur; | dwelling we come upon another smaller court-yard, a glossy silk stocking, white muslin or gay calico the "tras patio," around which are the kitchen, dress; bright colored shawl, generally pink ; large Guiaquil hat, the crown bound with plaid ribbons nearly as broad as itself, done up in bows on the right side; the glossy, jet-black hair, parted from the brow to the back of the head and falling down the back in two long plaits. Occupied in observing these various sights, our omnibus has rolled on, amid clouds of dust, and about a mile from the city we entered upon an avenue, or " Alameda," with double rows of willow trees on each side: from this we passed through an arched gateway and were in Lima.

A stranger upon entering the city of Lima will be struck with the long, narrow streets, the low houses, each one surmounted by a flag staff, and the irregular lines of heavy wooden Verandahs, dark and dingy with the dust of ages, jutting over the narrow pavements from the "altos," or two-storied houses. These Verandahs are prominent features in the external face of Lima, and also in its domestic habits. They afford facilities for being out of doors without the trouble of making a toilet. The lower part, for about three feet high, is a closely shut wooden box, running across the front of the upper story of the house, and supported upon projecting carved beams; from this to the roof the Verandah is closed by light lattice-work shutters swung on hinges at the top, so that when a lady is disposed to take a dishabille lounge, between breakfast and dinner, she lights her segar!! leans her arms upon the lower

servants' rooms, &c. The houses of Lima are all flat-roofed, and besides the ordinary windows for admitting air and light, have triangular projections upon the roof, something like dormant windows; the shutters of these are opened and closed on the inside by means of cords hanging down into the room. The flag staff, which we have noticed, is one of the most indispensable appendages, for it becomes necessary to fly banners from this on the many feast and saint days occurring throughout the year.

Churches and convents are conspicuous objects in every part of the city. Immense structures, surmounted by heavy domes and steeples, their fronts exhibiting a complicated maze of painted stucco work, carving and statuary. In some instances, these churches and convents enclose within their walls the whole of a very large square, and embrace all the appurtenances of a life of comfort. Porticos, neatly paved, and sustained one above another on handsome ornamental arches, their walls covered with porcelain and paintings, their roofs, elaborately carved, surround gardens of shrubs, flowers and bubbling fountains; delightful retreats for those who dwell in "Heavenly pensive contemplation."

To the great comfort and convenience of the Limenians the clear waters of the Rimae are flowing through almost every street, and fortunately carry off much of the filth which might other

wise be left by those industrious scavengers, the mother. I then saw and felt the contrast between turkey-buzzards, which are seen in great numbers the European and Limenian female costume; the through the streets, tame as domestic fowls. I effect upon morality of the latter is self-evident. have seen a Lima housewife, of an humble class, The same remark as regards uniformity will apbring the dishes and plates from the dinner table ply to the walk of the ladies. It is evidently a and wash them in this " sege," or canal. highly studied system which wearies by its art and sameness. It is the walk of an entire people, is devoid of spirituality, and admits of no peculiarity derived from the character of the individual.

Such is a general view of Lima. In its streets are motley groups. The eye will be first arrested by the many females stepping along with measured and majestic tread habited in the celebrated saya-y- While we are engaged so attentively in looking manto. Although its description has engaged at the costume of the ladies, our attention is aroused many pens, to prevent the trouble of reference I by some one crying out "Cuidado," sounding as if will attempt to give an idea of it. The saya is an pronounced "Credow" and meaning "take care;" elastic silk petticoat, stitched in very narrow plaits and unless we attend to the warning we run some upon a foundation of calico; this petticoat is gen-risk of being trampled on by a drove of donkeys, erally of black, but sometimes of blue or brown which, driven by a ragged negro who has given us silk; it embraces the waist closely and falls loosely the warning, and loaded with fagots of fire-wood or to the feet: the manto is a black hood which passing bundles of clover, has monopolized both the streets from beneath the band of the petticoat, is drawn and side walks, and renders it a matter of security up over the shoulders and head, covering all the to jump into a neighboring door or crowd close to upper part of the person except one eye; one hand the wall to avoid them. Water carriers, venders of is engaged beneath the manto holding it across the milk and of bread are seen in every direction, carface, while the other, particularly if it is handsome rying their articles about on donkeys, the proprieer has a rich jewel upon it, may be allowed to steal tor sitting almost on the tail of the little animal. through a narrow opening in the manto, and through Among the most conspicuous street characters of this same opening, falls the fringed or embroidered Lima are the venders of lottery tickets,-thin ends of a rich and bright-colored silken shawl. haggard old men, in seedy garb, who look as though The "saya" never falls so low as to conceal the they had passed through every possible make-shift satin shoe and silk stockings which every Limenian mode of life, and had finally come to this as a means female wears, or, more than poor must she be who of living upon the smallest physical, intellectual or does not. Attracted by an ankle neatly covered pecuniary capital. They are seen in every thorwith a new-looking glossy silk stocking, the observer oughfare, with their narrow, long books in greasy will be somewhat surprised upon raising his eye to black leather covers containing the tickets, under the figure above to see a negro or Indian market their arms, and a small inkstand and pen in their girl, or else a person in a shabby and tattered saya- hands, and their constant cry is "Suerte, Suerte." y-manto. Habited in this costume the lady is Wherever there is a collection of people this cry thoroughly disguised from all, father, husband or may be heard, and it is even bawled into the church brother, and the feeling of immunity from discovery doors. One of these starveling emissaries of the gives a daring boldness to the one eye fixed in blind goddess has just passed us, and has been searching brilliancy upon the passer by, and leaves stopped by an old man with the shaven crown and him in most annoying perplexity whether it is the long white habit of a monk, who wishes to purchase familiar recognition of some acquaintance or the a ticket. These tickets are coarsely printed in a impudence of an impenetrable disguise. The first column on one edge of a narrow sheet of paper; feeling is that every eye, looking thus familiarly, each ticket is about an inch square, and when sold must belong to some one well known to us. The the purchaser's name is entered on a line adjoining saya-y-manto when first seen makes the impres- the space from which the ticket is cut, and its numsion of an attractive and picturesque costume, but ber is entered on the opposite edge of the sheet. one soon wearies of its universal sameness, and The price of a ticket is 12 cents and the highest sighs for the variety and display of taste permitted prize a thousand dollars. It may readily be supin our own female dress, to say nothing of the posed there are not many prizes. The lucky numhonest exposure of bright and beautiful faces. bers are decided every Tuesday in the public I had this forcibly illustrated one evening in square. On one side of this square, fronting the walking upon one of the fashionable Alamedas or great cathedral, a temporary apartment and stage public walks. I had passed "Tapada," after "Ta- are erected open to the public whose fortunes are pada," as these mysteriously disguised ladies are to be decided. On the back part of this stage is called, stepping majestically along, when just before placed a table, at which sit three respectable lookme I saw a lady in European costume, wearing a ing men with all the gravity of judges of life and rich maroon velvet bonnet, and with her were two death. On the front of the stage are three large, handsome and elegantly dressed, merry little girls hollow wooden globes painted yellow, supported whom she regarded with the proud joy of fond upon stands upon which they are turned by means

while its cost is the very highest price paid for the most elegantly finished work in the United States. Among the most beautiful articles exhibited in these shops are finely wrought ornaments of fillagree silver, manufactured by the Indians of the interior. Wearied by walking, a friend familiar with Lima proposed that we should go to a "Pequante shop" and get some “Chicha,” offering to conduct me to

of a crank; a small door is placed in the top for the together in one street. Their work is exceedingly admission of the numbers. On small mahogany unsightly and has no neatness of shape or finish, stands, along side of these globes, are placed the numbers painted, on round flat blocks, and so inclined that they can all be seen by the spectators. Three old men to turn the globes and three little boys to take out the numbers complete the machinery. As the hour of decision draws nigh a motley crowd gathers about the place, women in saya-y-manto, nurses with children in their arms, ragged soldiers, friars, priests and a multitude of indescribables, one of the most fashionable, and which was visited a-donkey-back and a-foot. At the assigned moment, the three old men who turn the globes cast the numbers in them; thousands in the right hand globe, hundreds in the middle, and tens in the third. Being now turned backwards and forwards a few times, the doors are simultaneously opened, and each one of the little boys takes out a number: without looking at them they hold these numbers out at arms-length to the spectators, who see the combination. The boys then walk up to the table and place their hands close together upon it before the respectable looking old men, these are engaged a moment in writing, when one of them announces the number to one of the old men who had turned the globes, and he cries out in a singing monotonous voice the number and fortunate possessor. The numbers are all returned again to the globes and the same routine repeated until the prizes are exhausted.

These lotteries belong to a society called the Beneficencia, and their profits are for the use of the hospitals and charitable institutions. The "Beneficencia" farms the lottery out, and some idea may be formed of the numbers of the tickets sold, from the fact that the lottery has been sold this year for forty two thousand seven hundred dollars, and will undoubtedly yield a large profit to the purchaser. The propensity to gamble has every possible opportunity of indulgence in Lima, and I have seen it taken advantage of in a competition for custom. A segar maker kept on his counter a box of tickets in a lottery of trifles and gave one of these tickets to each person who bought a "medio's" worth, 64 cents, of segars: the consequence was a throng about his doors to which he was selling segars as fast as he could hand them out.

by all those vouchers for character, "the most respectable people." We accordingly passed into a bye-street and in a short time came to the establishment. The entrance was upon a small, dirty yard, and from this into a dark and slovenly room with but little furniture in it. A number of large tumblers were arranged on a shelf, and in one corner several large earthen jars, pointed at the bottom and wide at the top, with, however, a narrow mouth; in one of the jars was a reed pump. A woman was sitting on the floor nursing her child, and another seated on a box with a looking-glass before her in the sill of a low window making her toilet,-combing out her long black Indian hair. Altogether, the establishment did not bear the physiognomy of the highest respectability, if we set aside the “Costumbre del pays," or custom of the country, which is assigned as a good reason for every thing.

"Chicha" and "pequante" being ordered, a couple of plates of craw fish, in the shell, were placed upon the table, with a fiery sauce of red pepper, and along side of each plate was a saucer of parched corn. Two of the tumblers were filled by the pump from the large jar with a fluid looking like corn meal in water: this was the chicha, and the whole repast is that of the ancient Indians, and is still in great repute. This drink is made of corn that has been soaked, sprouted, dried and ground, then boiled in water and fermented. It has something of the taste of buttermilk and requires very little use to render it exceedingly palatable.

One accustomed to the quiet Sabbath day scenes of our own land, when

"Fresh glides the brook and blows the gale
Yet yonder halts the quiet mill;
The whirring wheel, the rushing sail,
How motionless and still!"

The large "Plaza," or public square of Lima, has the cathedral and archbishop's palace on one side, the government house on another, and the remaining two are formed by the "Portales," covered paved walks opening beneath arches upon the square. In the centre is a brazen fountain, around which is a busy collection of domestics and water- Early in the morning the militia soldiers were carriers. Under the Portal are many dry goods drilling in the public square, and upon directing and fancy stores, and this is the great place for my steps that way, I saw groups of people gazing shopping but the more elegant stores are upon upon some pictures suspended at the entrance of the Rua Mercaderes, and here are some new the “Portal." These proved to be large and glarstores richly supplied with handsome French goods, ing signs painted upon muslin, stretched over showily arranged. The silver-smiths are gathered wooden frames, one advertising the bull-bait for

will have forcibly brought before him his distance from that land, and the different people he is among by the scenes of Sunday in the Capital of Peru.

to-morrow, and the other the cock-fight for to-day. | in the centre of the body of the church, and upon Around the borders of the bull-bait sign, were paint-pushing my way, I saw a female figure as large as ed different scenes of the exhibition, one of which life, richly and gaily dressed in silk, with gold and represented the animal impaled upon a spear, and silver embroidery, and standing upon a rich car of another as goring a man upon the ground, showing crimson velvet, with fringes of gold cord. Near what spirit and piquancy might be anticipated. this figure stood a large military band, and about The cock-fight notice displayed two of these birds it the monks of various orders in their respective holding the advertisement up to the public view in costumes. The whole was an arrangement for a their beaks. Crossing the Plaza from this scene religious procession which put itself in motion a to the Cathedral, a large heavy looking hearse was few minutes after my arrival. First started three standing at the door. This was the Pantheon car old grey-bearded, ragged negroes, one blowing a which, having been around to collect the dead of clarionet, one a flageolet, and the third beating a the previous night, had brought them here to re-drum; such time-worn and battered instruments ceive the last offices of religion. The driver was are rarely seen; black as the hands which held loading it up with the bodies of those who had un- them, the clarionet and flageolet were covered with dergone the ritual. Already there were two bodies wrappings of twine to close their numerous cracks in the hearse, one in a black muslin covered coffin, and crevices; the drum had lost all cylindrical and the other lying upon the bottom of the hearse, shape and all definable color. Following these without any such casing. He was endeavoring to votaries of the "Heavenly Maid," who passed out force a third in over these, and while he was strug- of the side of the church into the convent yard, gling with his loathsome load, the few persons came two lines of men and boys carrying candles, gathered about were amusing themselves by laugh- and after these, women bearing open silver censers ing at his efforts. On the ground beside the car-in their hands, containing coals upon which they riage lay a coffin without a cover, lined with white sprinkled powdered incense. Both of these parmuslin, which had the appearance of being used ties seemed to be volunteers who had zealously temporarily, during the performance of the service, taken these duties upon themselves. Next came for such bodies as come there unprovided. Hav- the figure, the friars walking in columns on each ing put all the bodies in the hearse, the man snatch-side, and after this, under a silken canopy borne by ed up this empty coffin, placed it in the church, four boys, came a priest carrying the Host, at the mounted one of his mules and drove off with his loathsome burden, entirely unattended.

was the resort of numbers of ladies and gentlemen, while others strolled upon the Alamedas. Boys were busy selling hand-bills, advertising the bull bait of to-morrow, and these hand-bills as an

approach of which down went every one upon their knees. In this order the procession walked The stores and shops were generally, but not around the convent-yard, stopping for a chant at universally closed, and the contents of toy and the shrine of a saint in each corner, and from this picture shops seemed to have been turned out into it came out into the open square before the church, the portal, the whole range of which was occupied making the same round, accompanied during the by pedlers' stands. While walking about, my at- whole time by the mingled noises of the cracked tention was attracted by a tremendous rattling of clarionet, flageolet, and battered drum, the explobells and firing of rockets; proceeding in the di-sion of rockets, ringing of the bells and deafening rection of these discordant sounds I was conducted music of the band. In the afternoon the cock-pit to the church and convent of San. Francisco. A dense crowd filled the large open square in front of the church; from various parts of the building and from its steeples were fluttering a number of toy flags; men and boys were on the roof firing additional illustration of manners are worth derockets, while others in the belfrys had hold of the bell clappers, rattling them from one side to the other, as fast as their arms could move, and above all this confusion the lean and hungry-looking lottery man was bawling out Suerte, Suerte. Entering the church I found it to be a very imposing structure, lines of lofty arches supported the ceiling and divided the body of the church from competitors. the side aisles. Great numbers of long and broad Such are some of the Sunday scenes in ribbons of various gay colors, blue, yellow and Lima. One can scarce reconcile to himself that pink, hung in long sweeping curves from the ceil- he is still in that world and among that people to ing and tops of the pillars, crossing each other in whom the God of all has said, "keep holy the every direction. Through the smoke of burning Sabbath day." But on this very desecrated day, incense innumerable lights were seen glimmering did the magnificence of nature display the handifrom all parts of the church. I noticed that the work of the Almighty, and invite the heart of man crowd was gathered about some attractive object to involuntary adoration. As I stood in the Ala

scribing. The first page, embellished with two of the animals in furious combat, announces the day and place of exhibition, and that the Judge will be "the Intendent of Police;" the two inner pages are occupied by verses of the most grossly immoral character; the fourth gives the fancy names of the bulls and the names of their persecutors and

Like those which to my eyes have risen unsought, 'To bind me to the service of the Muse!