The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing: Traditional Recipes for Modern Use"This is the most comprehensive manual written on natural dyes since the early 1800s. Jim Liles has rescued ancient skills from near-extinction and shared them in a book that will inspire, challenge, and guide the modern dyer."--Rita Buchanan, author of A Weaver's Garden, and editor of the new Brooklyn Botanic Gardens Handbook on Natural Dyes " . . . a must for every dyer. The recipes are explicit and detailed as to success and failure."--Mary Frances Davidson For several thousand years, all dyes were of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, and many ancient civilizations possessed excellent dye technologies. The first synthetic dye was produced in 1856, and the use of traditional dyes declined rapidly thereafter. By 1915 few non-synthetics were used by industry or craftspeople. The craft revivals of the 1920s explored traditional methods of natural dyeing to some extent, particularly with wool, although the great eighteenth- and nineteenth-century dye manuals, which recorded the older processes, remained largely forgotten. In The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing, J. N. Liles consolidates the lore of the older dyers with his own first-hand experience to produce both a history of natural dyes and a practical manual for using pre-synthetic era processes on all the natural fibers--cotton, linen, silk, and wool. A general section on dyeing and mordanting and a glossary introduce the beginner to dye technology. In subsequent chapters, Liles summarizes the traditional dye methods available for each major color group. Scores of recipes provide detailed instructions on how to collect ingredients--flowers, weeds, insects, wood, minerals--prepare the dyevat, troubleshoot, and achieve specific shades. The book will appeal not only to beginning and veteran dyers but to students of restorations and reconstruction as well as to craftspeople--spinners, quilters, weavers, knitters, and other textile artists--interested in natural dyes for their beauty and historical authenticity. The Author: J. N. Liles is professor of zoology at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville. He has taught at Arrowmont School and other regional craft schools and has exhibited his work at the Arrowmont School, the Southern Highland Handicraft Guild Folk Art Center, and the Carol Reece Museum. |
From inside the book
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Page vii
... Silk Mordanting 18 Cotton and Linen Mordanting Tannin ( for 1 pound ) Basic Alum Mordant No. 1 ( for 1 pound ) Basic Alum Mordant No. 2 ( for 1 to 2 pounds ) Alum Mordant No. 3 , Aluminum Acetate ( Liles method Contents vii.
... Silk Mordanting 18 Cotton and Linen Mordanting Tannin ( for 1 pound ) Basic Alum Mordant No. 1 ( for 1 pound ) Basic Alum Mordant No. 2 ( for 1 to 2 pounds ) Alum Mordant No. 3 , Aluminum Acetate ( Liles method Contents vii.
Page viii
... Tannin Wool Mordanting Alum - Tartar Chrome Tin - Tartar - Oxalic Acid Copper - Tartar Iron - Oxalic Acid Alum - Copper - Tartar and Alum - Chrome Tartar Bancroft's Mordant Supplies and Suppliers 3 Yellow Dyes 31 33 Black Oak Bark ...
... Tannin Wool Mordanting Alum - Tartar Chrome Tin - Tartar - Oxalic Acid Copper - Tartar Iron - Oxalic Acid Alum - Copper - Tartar and Alum - Chrome Tartar Bancroft's Mordant Supplies and Suppliers 3 Yellow Dyes 31 33 Black Oak Bark ...
Page xii
... Tannin - Iron Black : Cotton or Linen Logwood - Cutch Black : Silk Logwood - Fustic Black : Silk Blue - Black : Silk Combination Black : Silk ( Unweighted ) Black from Primary Colors : Cotton , Linen , Silk or Wool Black from Primary ...
... Tannin - Iron Black : Cotton or Linen Logwood - Cutch Black : Silk Logwood - Fustic Black : Silk Blue - Black : Silk Combination Black : Silk ( Unweighted ) Black from Primary Colors : Cotton , Linen , Silk or Wool Black from Primary ...
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Common terms and phrases
30 minutes acetate acid added additional alizarin alkali allow alum Alum Mordant aluminum basic bath black oak blue boil brown calcium carbonate chemical chloride chrome clear cloth cochineal color combination concentrated contains cool copper cotton and linen Cotton or Linen damp dark detergent dissolved dyebath dyed early fermentation fiber fustic gallons gallons of water grams green heat hot water India indigo iron keep least leave less light lightfast lime liquor logwood madder material method mordant natural necessary nonreactive Note oak bark obtained orange ounces oxide particularly piece plants potassium pound premordanting Prepare probably produced Prussian blue purple quart recipe reducing remain Remove rinse salts scarlet Scour shade silk simmer slowly solution squeeze Stir strong sulfate synthetic tannin teaspoons temperature Turkey red usually vessel wool yarn yellow yellow dye