The staple material was the hair of notable women.

It was clipped

after death only, and arranged into the desired style on the occasion of the grand final banquet commemorative of their death and cremation. The hair of two women was required to make one wig.

Even women could aspire to the rank of noble or t'sèkhèza, among the Carriers. On the occasion of ceremonial dances they wore a head-dress even more graceful and pretty in form, if not so imposing and weird in material. This was called 'tast'ju or "woven-feathers." It was crownshaped, and its principal component parts were stiff laps of fur skin,

Fig. 165.

generally of the weasel, and feathers. The specimen herewith figured may be described as follows:-A strip of tanned skin about one inch in width and overlaid with three rows of dentalia serves as the foundation or head band of the crown. From this rise bread weasel skin strips with edges folded lengthwise and sewed up inside. These are stiffened by means of large feather quills or slender pieces of wood inserted therein. To further enhance the gracefulness of the head-dress, each skin is kept folded down at the top, thereby converting its tail into a flap. The skin laps are again retained in their upright position by a strip of dressed skin running, on the inside, around the upper periphery of the crown. Scalps of the red-headed woodpecker (Ceophleus pileatus) are secured on the folded part of each lap, while the tail feathers of another variety of woodpecker (Sphyrapicus varius) are sewn, pointing upwards, on the bottom and the middle of each upright piece of fur skin.

This head-dress was filled up, when in use, with down, which the wearer caused to escape around through the jerking of the head peculiar to the feminine style of dancing.

The above had been written and fig. 165. drawn for some time when I received specimen pages of a most important Bible Dictionary* now in course of publication in France under the supervision of that learned orientalist, the Abbé Vigouroux, wherein I found the sketch of a Chaldæan king

Fig. 166.

Dictionnaire de la Bible, etc., par F. Vigouroux, Letouzey et Anè, Paris.

(fig. 166) wearing a headdress so much resembling the 'tast'ju that I could not resist the temptation of reproducing it here with the author's permission. This illustration being copied from a contemporaneous monument, offers a very suggestive base of comparison with the ceremonial paraphernalia of our aborigines. Though the crown therein represented must have been of some precious metal, it would seem that the feathers or 'ta which have given its name to its American counterpart occupy an even more prominent place therein than in the Déné 'tast'ju.

The next important piece of the nobleman's ceremonial costume was the yo-statha* or dentalium breast-plate (fig. 167). It had the form of a

rounded crescent, and this particularity, no less than the costliness of the material, was no doubt intended to indicate the dignity of the wearer. The fitness of the dentalium as a means of ornamentation receives through this breast-plate its best illustration. These shells, as is well known, are larger at one end than at the other, and moreover are also slightly arched. The former peculiarity causes of itself the curve of the two broader rows of dentalia, while the latter likewise renders those of the middle and of the rim well adapted to the shape of the plate. The whole is of course mounted on a ground of dressed cariboo skin. Its two cusp-like extremities were clasped or knotted with rawhide strings behind the neck.

This article of personal adornment was valued at four dressed moose skins or forty beaver skins, which, if estimated at their present price, would represent the sum of $200.

Such was also the commercial valuation of the Raz. This is the ceremonial robe which I have elsewhere compared to the mehil of the Jewish high priest. It was originally of tanned cariboo skin, but the specimen in my possession (fig. 168) is of an old-fashioned printed stuff. Yet the fact of its main fringe being ornamented with porcupine quills and here and there with hoofs of yearling cariboo is evidence of respectable antiquity, considering the progressive tendency of the race to which belonged its maker. Exclusive of the lower fringe it measures 2 feet 21⁄2 inches in length, and in its narrowest breadth it is 3 feet 41⁄2 inches. The upper fringe is of red yarn, while that at the edge of the garment

(fig. 169) is composed as follows:-Firstly, small rounds of red cloth sewn on the printed calico, then two fillets respectively blue and red running along the edge. A narrow strip of tanned skin is then sewed on, from which hangs the fringe proper. The upper part of the strands is wrapped with yellow or green porcupine quills, below which they are left naked until they are connected together at hanging intervals by a slender cord of sinew thread. After an equal length left uncovered, each strand is passed through a dentalium shell, ending in a sewing thimble or a cariboo hoof scalloped at the edge.

The lapels or side extensions at the top of the Raz are intended to button or attach it behind with strings; for though the garment resembled a robe while in actual use, it was put on and worn as an apron from the waist down. Needless to add that the metallic ornaments of

the lower fringe were well calculated to impress the bystanders by the jingling sound they yielded with the importance of the dancer.

The noblewomen wore no kaz, but substituted therefor the cincturelike piece of apparel shown in fig. 170. Though it resembles a girdle, it was considered a breech-cloth. Of course, being merely ornamental, it was worn over the dress. It will be seen that it was almost entirely of dentalium shells without any leather lining.

As a complement to his costume, the taneza had his ceremonial Kwanzas or fire-bag and ornamented quiver. I have never seen any specimen of the latter; but from what we know of the other pieces of festal attire, we may well imagine it glowing as the rest with the ubiquitous dentalium shells and fringes The fire-bag shown above (fig. 171) is mainly of cariboo skin with glass beads stitched on the edges and red and blue trimmings. It belonged to the original possessor of the Raz already described and is therefore contemporaneous therewith. This old man died five or six years ago at the age of 105 years or thereabouts.

The mocassins and leggings were also similarly ornamented on festival occasions. Truly, the Carrier "nobleman," standing in the midst of an admiring assemblage, crowned with the weird head-dress of his ancestors, resplendent in the glory of his moon-like breast-plate, clothed in the folds of his sonorously fringed robe, with his shining fire-bag hanging on the left and his jewelled quiver on the right, and bedecked from head to foot with snow white shells, must have been a sight worth beholding.

This is perhaps the proper place to mention another variety of headdress which, though ceremonial in intent, was not the appanage of titled