the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and from my friends be fuch frigid philofophy, as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground. which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied, whofe patriotifm would not gain force upon the plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of Iona.

We came too late to visit monuments: fome care was neceffary for ourselves. Whatever was in the ifland, Sir Allan could demand, for the inhabitants were Macleans; but having little, they could not give us much. He went to the headman of the island, whom fame, but fame delights in amplifying, represents as worth no less than fifty pounds. He was perhaps proud enough of his guests, but ill prepared for our entertainment; however, he foon produced more provision than men not luxurious require. Our lodging was next to be provided. We found a barn well ftocked with hay, and made our beds as foft as we could.

In the morning we rofe and furveyed the place, The churches of the two convents are both ftanding, though unroofed. They were built of unhewn ftone, but folid, and not inelegant. I brought away rude measures of the buildings, fuch as I cannot much truft myself, inaccurately taken, and obscurely noted. Mr. Pennant's delineations, which are doubtless exact, have made my unfkilful defcription lefs neceffary.

The epifcopal church confifts of two parts, feparated by the belfry, and built at different times. The original church had, like others, the altar at one end,

and

and tower at the other; but as it grew too fmall, another building of equal dimenfion was added, and the tower then was neceffarily in the middle.

That these edifices are of different ages feems evident. The arch of the first church is Roman, being part of a circle; that of the additional building is pointed, and therefore Gothick or Saracenical; the tower is firm, and wants only to be floored and covered.

Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks, there are fome walls remaining, but nothing approaching to a complete apartment.

The bottom of the church is fo encumbered with mud and rubbish, that we could make no discoveries of curious infcriptions, and what there are have been already published. The place is faid to be known where the black ftones lie concealed, on which the old Highland chiefs, when they made contracts and alliances, used to take the oath, which was confidered as more facred than any other obligation, and which could not be violated without the blackeft infamy. In those days of violence and rapine, it was of great impor tance to imprefs upon favage minds the fanctity of an oath, by fome particular and extraordinary circumftances. They would not have recourfe to the black ftones, upon fmall or common occafions, and when they had established their faith by this tremendous fanction, inconftancy and treachery were no longer feared.

The chapel of the nunnery is now used by the ins habitants as a kind of general cow-house, and the bottom is confequently too miry for examination. Some

of

of the ftones which covered the later abbeffes have infcriptions, which might yet be read, if the chapel were cleanfed. The roof of this, as of all the other buildings, is totally deftroyed, not only because timber quickly decays when it is neglected, but because in an ifland utterly deftitute of wood, it was wanted for use, and was confequently the firft plunder of needy rapacity.

The chancel of the nuns' chapel is covered with an arch of ftone, to which time has done no injury; and a small apartment communicating with the choir, on the north fide, like the chapter-house in cathedrals, roofed with ftone in the fame manner, is likewife entire.

In one of the churches was a marble altar, which the fuperftition of the inhabitants has deftroyed. Their opinion was, that a fragment of this stone was a defence against shipwrecks, fire, and mifcarriages. In one corner of the church the bafon for holy water is yet unbroken.

The cemetery of the nunnery was, till very lately, regarded with fuch reverence, that only women were buried in it. Thefe reliques of veneration always produce fome mournful pleasure. I could have forgiven a great injury more easily than the violation of this imaginary fanctity.

South of the chapel ftand the walls of a large room, which was probably the hall, or refectory of the nunnery. This apartment is capable of repair. Of the reft of the convent there are only fragments.

Befides the two principal churches, there are, I think, five chapels yet ftanding, and three more remembered,

7

membered. There are alfo croffes, of which two bear the names of St. John and St. Matthew.

A large fpace of ground about thefe confecrated edifices is covered with grave ftones, few of which have any infcription. He that furveys it, attended by an infular antiquary, may be told where the kings of many nations are buried, and if he loves to footh his imagination with the thoughts that naturally rife in places where the great and the powerful lie mingled with the duft, let him liften in fubmiffive filence; for if he afks any questions, his delight is at an end.

Iona has long enjoyed, without any very credible atteftation, the honour of being reputed the cemetery of the Scottish kings. It is not unlikely, that, when the opinion of local fanctity was prevalent, the chieftains of the ifles, and perhaps fome of the Norwegian or Irish princes, were repofited in this venerable inclosure. But by whom the fubterraneous vaults are peopled is now utterly unknown. The graves are very numerous, and fome of them undoubtedly contain the remains of men, who did not expect to be fo foon forgotten.

Not far from this awful ground may be traced the garden of the monaftery: the fishponds are yet difcernible, and the aqueduct which fupplied them is ftill in ufe.

There remains a broken building, which is called the Bishop's House, I know not by what authority, It was once the refidence of fome man above the common rank, for it has two ftories and a chimney. We were shewn a chimney at the other end, which was only a niche, without perforation, but fo much

does

does antiquarian credulity, or patriotick vanity prevail, that it was not much more fafe to truft the eye. of our inftructor than the memory.

There is in the island one house more, and only one, that has a chimney; we entered it, and found it neither wanting repair nor inhabitants; but to the farmers, who now poffefs it, the chimney is of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor, in the middle of the room, and notwithstanding the dignity of their manfion, they rejoiced, like their neighbours, in the comforts of fmoke.

It is obferved, that ecclefiaftical colleges are always in the moft pleasant and fruitful places. While the world allowed the monks their choice, it is furely no difhonour- that they chose well. This island is remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches ist faid to contain feventy families, which, at five in a family, is more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile, There are perhaps other villages; yet both corn and - cattle are annually exported.

But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole profperity. The inhabitants are remarkably grofs, and remarkably neglected: I know not if they are vifited by any minifter. The island, which was once the metropolis of learning and piety, has now no school for education, nor temple for worship, only two inhabitants that can speak English, and not one that can write or read.

The people are of the clan of Maclean; and though Sir Allan had not been in the place for many years, he was received with all the reverence due to their chieftain. One of them being fharply reprehended by him, for not fending him fome rum,

declared