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hillocks to the ridges of Taurus, or these spots of wilderness to the deserts of America ?
It was not long before we were invited to mount, and continued our journey along the side of a lough, kept full by many streams, which with more or less rapidity and noise crossed the road from the hills on the other hand. These currents, in their diminished ftate, after several dry months, afford, to one who has always lived in level countries, an unusual and delightful spectacle; but in the rainy season, such as every winter may be expected to bring, must precipitate an impetuous and tremendous flood. I suppose the way by which we went, is at this time impas. Lable.
GLENSHE AL S.
The lough at last ended in a river bread and Thallow like the rest, but that it may be passed when. it is deeper, there is a bridge over it. Beyond it is a valley called Glenfheals, inhabited by the clan of Macrae, Here we found a village called Auk, nafheals, consisting of many huts, perhaps twenty, built all of dry-stone, that is, stones piled up without mortar.
We had, by the direction of the officers at Fort Augustus, taken bread for ourselves, and tobacco for those Highlanders who night shew us any kinda ness. We were now at a place where we could obtain milk, but must have wanted bread if we had not brought it. The people of this valley did not appear to know any English, and our guides now became doubly necessary as interpreters, .A woman,
whofe hut was distinguished by greater spaciousness, and better architecture, brought out some pails of milk. The villagers gathered about us in confiderable numbers, I believe without any evil intention, but with a very savage wildness of aspect and
When our meal was over, Mr. Boswell Niced the bread, and divided it amongst them, as he supposed them never to have tasted a wheaten loaf before. He then gave them little pieces of twisted tobacco, and among the children we distributed a small handful of halfpence, which they received with great eagerness. "Yet I have been fince told, that the people of that valley are not indigent; and when we mentioned them afterwards as needy and pitiable, a Highland lady let us know, that we might spare our commiseration; for the dame whose milk we drank had probably more than a dozen milk-cows. She seemed unwilling to take any price, but being pressed to make a demand, at last named a shilling. Honesty is not greater where elegance is less. Onę of the by-standers, as we were told afterwards, ad: vised her to ask more, but she said a shilling was enough. , We gave her half-a-crown, and I hope got some credit by our behaviour; for the company said, if our interpreters did not flatter us, that they had not seen such a day since the old laird of Macleod passed through their country. ,
The Macraes, as we heard afterwards in the Hebrides, were originally an indigent and subor, dinate clan, and having no farms nor stock, were in great numbers, servants to the Maclellans, who, in the war of Charles the First, took arms at the call Vol. VIII.
of the heroick Montrose, and were, in one of his battles, almost all destroyed. The women that were left at home, being thus deprived of their husbands, like the Scythian ladies of old, married their fervants, and the Macraes became a confiderable race.
As we continued our journey, we were at leisure to extend our fpeculations, and to investigate the reason of those peculiarities by which such rugged regions as these before us are generally distinguilhed.
Mountainous countries commonly contain the oriġinal, at least the oldest race of inhabitants, for they are not easily conquered, because they must be entered by narrow ways, exposed to every power of mischief from those that occupy the heights; and every new ridge is a new fortress, where the defendants have again the famie advantages. If the assailants either force the strait, or storm the summit, they gain only so much ground; their enemies are fled to take poffeffion of the next rock, and the pursuers stand at gaze, knowing neither where the ways of escape wind among the steeps, nor where the bog has firmness to sustain them: besides that, mountaineers have an agility in climbing and defcending, distinct from strength or courage, and attainable only by use.
If the war be not foon concluded, the invaders are dislodged by hunger; for in thofe anxious and toilfome marches, provisions cannot easily be carried, and are never to be found. The wealth of mountains is cattle, which, while the men stand in
the passes, the women drive away. Such lands at last cannot repay the expence of conquest, and therefore perhaps have not been fo often invaded by the mere ambition of dominion, as by resentment of robberies and insults, or the desire of enjoying in security the more fruitful provinces.
As mountaineers are long before they are conquered, they are likewise long before they are civilized. Men are foftened by intercourse mutually profitable, and instructed by comparing their own notions with those of others. Thus Cæfar found the maritime parts of Britain made less barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls. Into a barren and rough tract no stranger is brought either by the hope of gain or of pleasure. The inhabitants having neither commodities for sale, nor money for purchase, seldom vifit more polished places, or if they do visit them feldom return.
It fometimes happens that by conquest, intermixture, or gradual refinement, the cultivated parts of a country change their language. The mountaineers then become a distinct nation, cut off by diffimilitude of speech from conversation with their neighbours: Thus in Biscay, the original Cantabrian, and in Dalecarlia, the old Swedish still subsists. Thus Wales and the Highlands speak the tongue of the first inhabitants of Britain, while the other parts have received first the Saxon, and in some degree afterwards the French, and then formed a third language between them.
That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive language is spoken, no nation will deGre me to suppose, for the manners of mountaineers
are commonly savage, but they are rather, produced by their situation than derived from their ancestors.
Such seems to be the disposition of man, that whatever makes a diftinction produces rivalry. England, before other causes of enmity were found, was disturbed for some centuries by the contests of the northern and southern counties ; so that at Oxford, the peace of study could for a long time be preserved only by choosing annually one of the proctors from each side of the Trent. A tract intersected by many ridges of mountains, naturally divides its inhabitants into petty nations, which are made by a thousand causes enemies to each other, Each will exalt its own chiefs, each will boast the valour of its men, or the beauty of its women, and every claim of superiority irritates competition ; in. juries will sometimes be done, and be more inju. riously defended.; retaliation will sometimes bę attempted, and the debt: exacted with too much interest.
In the Highlands it was a law, that if a robber was sheltered from justice, any man of the same clan might be taken in his place. This was a kind of irregular justice, which, though necessary in savage timeș, could hardly fail to end in a feud; and a feud once kindled among an idle people, with no variety of pursuits to divert their thoughts, burnt on for ages, either fullenly glowing in secret mischief, or openly blazing into publick violence. Of the effects of this violent judicature, there are not wanting memorials. The cave is now to be seen to which one of the Campbells, who had injured the Macdonalds, retired with a body of his own clan. The Macda