There should be two of these, one for boiling the wash, the other for heating water. The kettles may be set in a brick or stone base, with space

FIG. 14. A CONVENIENT AND ECONOMICAL MANNER OF CONSTRUCTING A LIME-SULPHUR BOILING PLANT

After Smith, Ga. State Bd. of Ent., Bul. 21

sufficient beneath for placing wood or coal (see accompanying figure). The large orchardist will find it economical to practice the boiling of the wash on a larger scale, using steam and boiling from two to six barrels at a time. Fig. 15 shows the arrangement of boiler and barrels and pipes conducting the steam.

I know of one orchardist who boils his lime-sulphur wash in a barrel by means of heated irons. This process works successfully. When this method is used the spray must be carefully strained before it is put into the spray pump to rid the wash of the ashes added by the heated irons. The Boiled Lime-Sulphur Wash as yet has no equal for its cheapness and efficiency in killing the San José scale.

The salt which was formerly added to lime-sulphur washes has no appreciable useful effect-with it the spray adheres no longer and kills scale no better. The addition of salt increases the cost of the wash and, furthermore, the cool wash does not pass through the nozzle so readily when salt is added.

Bluestone-copper sulphate-added to the lime-sulphur wash has no beneficial effect as an adherent.

To make the lime-sulphur wash one should have suitable equipment. It is best to be so located that plenty of water may be handy. After one has once made the wash the second attempt will be more successful

After Newell and Smith, Ga. State Bd. of Ent., Bul. 14.

and less effort will be needed. One soon learns the little steps in the process of making by which the work is made lighter and more convenient.

It is not uncommon for orchardists to lose their hired men because they ask them to help spray with the lime-sulphur wash. Due to the smell and the caustic properties of the wash, many are actually afraid of it. With proper apparatus and clothing a little experience will enable the operator to do the work without discomfort.

OUTFIT

After Parrott, Ohio Agr. Exp. Sta., Bul. 169.

The amount of the wash for a tree will depend on the size of the tree and how closely it has been pruned. An amount for an averagesized bearing tree is from one gallon to two gallons.

Unboiled
lime-sulphur wash

Many are inclined to use the unboiled limesulphur wash for the San José scale in preference to the boiled wash. It is a little more convenient to make and for this reason the formula is included here. When only a few trees are to be sprayed and one is not equipped to make the boiled lime-sulphur wash this wash may be used; however, it does not do as effective work in killing scale. The cost for making is greater and the caustic causes the spray to burn wherever it touches the flesh.

Put a few pails of water into a wooden barrel; add the lime, sulphur and soda; stir frequently; let it remain from 20 to 30 minutes. Dilute to make 50 gallons.

Precautions

Never put the lime-sulphur wash into a copper sprayer. The action of the chemical is very rapid upon the copper and will shortly destroy a copper sprayer. For spraying this wash use a galvanized iron or wooden receptacle.

In spraying, great pains should be taken to cover all parts of the tree, shrub or plant. If a heavy rain immediately follows your application of the spray the process should be repeated. Do not spray when the trees are wet.

In all the formulas which require the quicklime, the best stone lime freshly burned should be used. Air-slaked lime will not answer in making lime-sulphur wash.

FIG. 17. COMMON TYPES OF SPRAY NOZZLES

I, Vermorel; 2, McGowen; 3, Bordeaux; 4, Double Vermorel; 5, Mistry; 6, Double

Spray-motor

SUMMER TREATMENT OF SAN JOSE SCALE

No encouragement can be given for summer treatment, due to varying results. A spray strong enough to kill scale will also seriously injure the foliage of the trees. It would be far better in most cases to postpone spraying until the trees are dormant, then apply the lime-sulphur wash, which will give effective results; furthermore the work comes at a season of the year when labor can be easily obtained.

THE SPRAY PUMP AND NOZZLE

It is very essential that a good spray pump be secured, together with a suitable nozzle. The lime-sulphur should be applied in a fine mist which comes to the tree with a good force. A nozzle that gives a conicalshaped spray is to be preferred to one that produces a flat or fan-shaped spray. Thus the Vermorel, Mistry, Demorel, etc., are types of nozzles to be selected.

There are many good types of barrel sprayer; a few suggestions, however, may not be amiss for those anticipating buying. For a very few trees a good bucket sprayer, such as the "Success," with from ten to fifteen feet of hose and an extension rod, does very creditable work. For a small orchard a barrel sprayer should be purchased. It is best to have this fitted with two leads of hose. It is important to get from fifteen to twenty feet of hose on each of these. The heavy parts of the sprayer should be located well toward the bottom of the barrel if the pump is mounted in the end of the barrel, or at the lower side if the pump is placed in the side of the barrel. The weight being low prevents the sprayer from being top-heavy when empty. It is also important to have a good, easy and thorough-working agitator. A simple pump with valves and working parts that can readily be taken apart and cleaned is very essential. In buying a barrel sprayer, expense (about $2.00) can be saved by getting the pump detached from the barrel and placing it in a kerosene or other good barrel at home.

FUMIGATION

In treating nursery stock to kill San José scale all trees upon which scale can be found should be destroyed (burned) if the trees are to be sold. The remaining stock should be carefully subjected to hydrocyanic acid gas and allowed to fumigate as follows:

How to fumigate nursery stock

Before the trees are packed into the fumigator, pains should be taken to see that they are dry and stripped of all their leaves and that all surplus dirt is shaken from the roots. It is well not to puddle the roots before fumigating. Fumigate the trees the last thing before they are sold. All nursery stock sold or bought with the purpose of re-selling should be carefully fumigated. Any cuttings or buds gotten for use in propagation should likewise be subjected to the gas.

After the trees have been properly packed in the fumigator, a porcelain or glass dish should be placed beneath the false floor, or at a safe distance from the trees. The required amount of water is added. The acid is now added to the water. The cyanide, which should have been carefully weighed and placed in a paper bag, is next added to the dish containing the water and acid. The door and ventilator are at once closed and securely fastened. Fumigation should continue for 30 to 40 minutes. At the end of this time the ventilator and door are opened and the room is allowed to ventilate for at least 15 minutes.

Chemicals

In buying chemicals great care should be taken, since the desired results can be obtained only when everything is of proper strength and correctly used. The potassium cyanide should be the best, fused, 98 per cent pure.