correct, though not complete. More than thirty of these I had myself either visited or observed so as to fix their positions on the map. Of the high antiquity of these ruins scarcely a doubt can be entertained, and the extent of the more important among them has already been estimated. Here then we have a venerable record, more than three thousand years old, containing incidental statements and statistics which few would be inclined to receive on trust, and not a few to cast aside as glaring absurdities, and yet which close examination shows to be minutely accurate.

9

Ere we leave these hills I shall complete the general review of their topography commenced above. From Tell Abu Tumeis, it has been stated, the mountain-chain preserves an almost uniform altitude to Tell Kuleib. From this latter point it slopes down gradually to Sulkhad. The whole of the loftier portion is clothed with oak forests, and the scenery is rich and varied. South of the Kuleib the chain branches, or rather is divided by a wady which extends from near the eastern base of that peak to the village of Muneidhirah west of Sulkhad. The eastern portion is, toward the south, destitute of trees; but is nearly all capable of cultivation in patches and terraces, where the loose stones are gathered off the soil. The inaccuracy in Burckhardt's map between Suweideh and 'Ary has already been pointed out. Another of the very same character has been made in the delineation of his route down the mountain-range to Sulkhad, which I shall now point out, as by it the latter place has been moved six or seven miles too far south, and thus the whole southern group of cities, including Busrah, Kureiyeh, and 1 See p. 156.

9 See pp. 57, 65.

1

others, incorrectly laid down. The first thing that drew my attention to this matter was the position of 'Ayûn, and the great distance as represented on his map between Kureiyeh and Hebrân-about 2 hours. We rode this in 1 h. 35 min., which, taking into account the nature of the road and circuitous route we followed, does not represent a distance of more than four miles. In examining, therefore, the relative bearings of Sulkhad, Kureiyeh, Sehwet el-Khudr, and Hebrân, I was at once convinced that there must be some mistake in the estimate which represents Sulkhad as 4 hours south of Sehwet, and I soon discovered how the mistake occurred.2

Burckhardt in going from Hebrân to Zaele (or rather Sâleh) passed over the whole breadth of the mountainchain to the eastern plain; but in returning thence to Sehwet el-Khudr he recrossed only the eastern branch. The plain into which he descended from the latter town, and which he calls Ard Aaszaf (Ard 'Asăƒ) is the wady which divides the mountains, and neither the eastern nor the western plain.3 Down this plain he then rode two hours to Ayoun ('Ayûn), having observed when half way the ruined castle of Koueires (Kûweiris) on a tell three or four miles on the right. 'Ayûn, he says, is built at the foot of a hill called Szfeikh (Sefîkh), and this hill must be a part of the western branch. Now I ascertained that 'Ayûn is only half an hour distant due north from Sulkhad, and this information accords exactly with Buckingham's route, whereas in Burckhardt the distance is represented as 2 hours. In the map this distance has

2 Travels in Syria, pp. 95-7.

5

Buck., Trav. among Arab Tribes, p. 214.

3 Id. p. 94.

5 Trav. in Syr. pp. 97, 99.

not been properly laid down, probably because it was found not to accord with other calculations. Still the distance on the map is much too great, being nearly two hours. Here there is no mistake on Burckhardt's part, but there is a want of sufficient fulness. He ought to have given the directions as well as the distances. On arriving at 'Ayûn he turned nearly due east, and recrossed the eastern branch of the mountains, which is here low, and covered with ruined walls, as he describes it. Proceeding in this direction, he reached 'Orman in 11⁄2 hour, and from thence he turned back W. by S., and arrived at Sulkhad in 1 hour more. Instead of 4 hours, Sulkhad is only 24 hours from Sehwet el-Khudr. Burckhardt's route from Sulkhad to Kureiyeh appears to have been the same as ours. Buckingham's, however, was different, as he kept more to the north, and passed close to 'Ayûn."

The town of 'Orman, visited by Burckhardt, I saw from the ruins of Sulkhad; it is in the plain, considerably to the eastward of the base of the mountain. It is a place of some historical importance, as marking the site of the ancient Philipopolis. It is identified by means of an inscription copied by Burckhardt, in which the name occurs, with the date 253, or A.D. 359. In Aurelius Victor's History of the Cæsars' is the following passage, which throws some light on these ruins :— on these ruins" M. Julius Philippus, an Arab of Trachonitis, having united with himself his son Philippus (in the government of the empire), and having arranged affairs in the East, and erected the city

6 Travels in Syria, p. 99.

7 Travels among Arab Tribes, p. 214

of Philipopolis in Arabia, came to Rome." 8 This Philippus was a native of Bostra, and founded Philipopolis to perpetuate his own name, and to honour his native land. He may probably have descended from a family which at one time resided in this very town; and when he obtained the sceptre of the Cæsars, he rebuilt and adorned it, and gave it his own name. Philipopolis became afterwards an episcopal city, and its bishop signed the acts of the Council of Chalcedon. The Greek name is now forgotten, and the ancient Syrian name alone is known to the people of the land.

8 Chap. xxviii.; see also Ritter, Pal. und Syr., ii. 954.

9 S. Paulo, Geog. Sac., p. 295; see also Reland, Pal., p. 218.

CHAPTER XIV.

SUWEIDEH TO NEJRAN, EDHR'A (EDREI), AND DAMASCUS.

1

Roman road · The plain of Bashan The borders of the Lejah, Trachonitis-Situation of Nejrân, and description of its ruins. Kerâtah, the ancient Coreathes - Ride along the side of the Lejah Busr el-Hariry Fanaticism and insolence of its inhabitants Danger of penetrating the Lejah — Approach to Edrei — Description of its position and ruins — Identification and history - Fearful conflict with its inhabitants - Rescue - Threats and plans of escapeMidnight flight - Bivouac in a defile - Wild scenery of the Lejah. TOPOGRAPHY AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE LEJAH.-Its extent and boundaries Identified with Trachonitis and ARGOB— Great numbers of deserted towns Ruins of Musmeih, the ancient Phanos.

The plain of Bashan Pharpar-The Hâj road.

Arrival at Deir 'Aly-The valley of the

resume our narrative.

At 1.55 we again

We now mounted, and rode down the stony declivity to the plain. In ten minutes we crossed the Roman road referred to above. The loose stones and rough ground continued till we reached the village of Welgha at 2:50. Among the rocks there is abundance of the richest soil. Welgha is built on the top of a low tell, and resembles all the other villages of this region. Half an hour north from it, on another tell, is Rîmeh, and between them, in a stony wady, are two towers resembling the tombs of Kunawât. On passing Welgha the plain becomes open, and the loamy soil is entirely free from stones, affording fine fields for the cultivation of wheat. At 3.30 we reached the