external walls are now generally of a date subsequent to the Roman age. In some places there are traces of very ancient work in the foundations of the ramparts, both externally and internally; and, besides, had the castle been wholly the work of a later age, the theatre would never have been left in its present state; the benches would all have been torn up for building-stones, and the massive curved wall would doubtless have been removed to make way for structures more important in the interior of a great fortress. It must, I think, be apparent to every one who will take the trouble carefully to examine the place, that the theatre was used since the castle assumed its present form. The exterior walls of the castle have been in part destroyed since the period when theatres were frequented in this land; but they have been built up again on their old foundations, and with their old materials. When the Arabs first seized the city this whole structure must have been pretty nearly in its present form. Another circumstance makes it highly probable that the theatre was constructed within a more ancient fortress. A city in the plain, like Busrah, and bordering on the desert, must have been in all ages exposed to sudden attacks of Arab tribes. A large garrison would thus be constantly required in it. It was besides the metropolis of the province; and to afford appropriate amusement to the numerous soldiers within the walls of the fortress would naturally suggest itself to the play-loving and luxurious Romans.

This theatre is more ornate and chaste in its arrangements and embellishments than those at Kunawât or Shuhba, and it is also far more spacious. In form it is

semicircular, the diameter being ninety-one yards; and six ranges of benches extend around it. Above the upper bench is a Doric colonnade, which once supported an ornamented roof, covering a spacious passage or præcincto. The pillars are each thirteen inches in diameter, and ten feet high, and stand at intervals of five feet: about twenty of them still occupy their places. At the ends of the benches are two large chambers, with doors opening upon the stage, which extends backwards between them about forty feet, as seen on the plan. But the most remarkable feature of this theatre is the great extent of the arena when compared with the smallness of the number of spectators it could accommodate probably not over three thousand. Had it been intended for theatrical exhibitions merely, it would not, I think, have been constructed on such a plan. Being within a fortress, and thus designed

chiefly for the use of the garrison, the extent of the arena would serve for a circus for the exhibition of athletæ, gladiators, and the various other kinds of Roman games.

Within the walls of the castle Mr. Barnett copied several inscriptions, and I noticed others, which want of time prevented me from transcribing. On one of these, found in Burckhardt's Travels,' is the name of a soldier of the third Cyrenian Legion, and on another is, apparently, the name of an archbishop.

A few families now reside within the walls of the castle; and we were informed that during the spring season all the inhabitants of the place gather in here, that they may protect their flocks and their property from the nightly depredations of the Bedawîn. A massive gate, covered with heavy plates of iron, serves to secure them against all plunderers. Burckhardt states that this castle was at one time maintained by a garrison of seven Muggrebins against the whole forces of the Wahabees; and this I can easily believe, for, to assailants armed with spears and a few wretched muskets, when the gate is shut the place is impregnable. Formerly a strong force of irregular cavalry was kept here by the Pasha of Damascus, but now there is no garrison, and the rapacious Bedawîn roam freely over the fields of the poor peasants, who have to pay them black mail. Garrisons of a few hundred horse at this place, at Sŭlkhad, and at Mezarîb, would be sufficient to keep the whole Arab tribes of the desert in check, and the fertile plain of the Haurân would then be made to yield one hundred fold its present produce of grain. But here, as elsewhere, the Turks manifest no

6 P. 233.

regard either for the welfare of the people or the improvement of the soil. If the sordid pasha, who has bought his place, can wring as much from the poor peasant as will amply repay his outlay, he cares not though the soil become a desert, and the towns and villages heaps of ruins.

Returning again to the triumphal arch, we repassed the temple and columns, and followed the line of the straight street northwards. This street resembles those of modern eastern cities, being narrow, with a raised path on each side, and having ranges of open stalls along it. These, however, are of a comparatively modern date, as is evident from the fragments of columns and capitals that are built up in the walls. As we proceeded our guide pointed out on the left an ornamented doorway (6 on the plan) leading into a ruinous house, called Beit el-Yehûdy, "the house of the Jew;" the tradition of which is as follows:-The governor of Busrah, in the early days of Islam, wished to found a mosk, and the site selected was occupied by the house of a certain Jew. He was ordered to give up his property, but refused; his house was consequently pulled down, and the mosk built. The Jew however repaired to Medina and requested an audience of the Khâlif. He was directed to the tombs without the walls, and there he found 'Omer clothed in rags, wandering through the cemetery. Upon making his complaint the just Khâlif made no reply, but demanded ink and paper; the Jew had no paper, and 'Omer, taking the jawbone of an ass, wrote upon it these words-"Pull down the mosk, and rebuild the Jew's house:" delivering this to the supplicant, he resumed his walk. The Jew returned,

the Khâlif was obeyed, and the ruins of the house are still pointed out. This anecdote is quite characteristic of 'Omer and of the times he lived in. A similar story may be seen in the Bibliothèque Orientale' of D'Herbelot."

Passing this house, we came to a large and fine mosk (7 on plan). Its erection must unquestionably be ascribed to the very earliest ages of Islam; and the tradition is probably correct that it was founded by the Khâlif 'Omer. Its form is nearly square, and the entrance is by a small door, beside a lofty minaret. Along the eastern side are two ranges of columns, and on each of the other sides. there is one range. Seventeen of these are monoliths of white marble, beautifully polished, and of fine proportions. The columns stand in pairs-the marble and basalt side by side. This gives to the whole interior a confused and ungainly aspect. It is manifest that the building was constructed out of more ancient materials; and the inscriptions upon two of the columns show that they were once intended to adorn a Christian church. One of them has the date 383, A.D. 489.

Opposite the mosk on the east side of the street is a large bath. The pipes for conveying the water to the several chambers are still seen in the half-ruined walls. They are of pottery united with cement, similar to those at present used in Damascus.

In my next walk through the city I went first to the large church marked 9 on the plan. It had attracted my attention on coming into the city. It is called by the

present inhabitants "The Church of the Monk Boheira." The external walls are square, but the interior is in the

7 s. v. Omer.