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(A.) List of the Russian Naval Force in the Black Sea, Jan. 1853

337

SOME ACCOUNT

OF

THE CRIMEA,
CRIMEA, AND THE SHORES OF
THE SEA OF AZOF.

CHAPTER I.

THE CRIMEA.

General description of the Crimea Mountains - Rivers - Ancient name — Boundaries - The Steppes to the north connected with it — The roads Bereslaf Kherson; its foundation and importance - Gloubóky - Perversion of names by the Russians Nicolaief, head-quarters of Black Sea fleet, described - Odessa — Definition of New Russia - Limits of ancient Scythia The dominions of the Khans of the Crimea — The Zaporogue Cossacks.

THE peninsula of the Crimea is a southern portion of the Steppes of Russia, raised by volcanic action out of nearly the centre of the Black Sea. It is about 200 miles across in a direct line from Cape Karamroun on the western side above Eupatoria to Cape Fanar, the furthest point eastward on the Straits of Kertch, and 125 miles from Perecop to Cape Kikineis on the southern coast. It contains a population of about 200,000 inhabitants, and covers an area of 10,050 English square miles.

The Tauric range of mountains runs east and west along the southern coast from Balaclava to Theodosia, and generally within a few hundred yards of the shore, which, being protected by them from the northern winds, enjoys a delicious climate, like that of southern Italy. But this mild temperature is confined to the narrow strip of land along the coast which is shut in by the mountains, and to the north of them the weather shows severe alternations of

B

heat and cold, and the snow in some seasons covers the ground for a considerable time in winter. The mountains themselves occupy a large space, and rise to a height of from 1000 to 5000 feet. They are generally flattopped or dome-shaped, and hold within their range high elevated plains called Yailas. Their summits reveal granite and other primitive rocks, and on their northern sides lie, like a mantle, the Steppes, which constitute all the northern portion, and nearly two-thirds of the area, of the whole peninsula.

These steppes gradually incline downwards towards the north, and hence received from the later Greeks the name of "ta climata," or the inclines." The following are the principal rivers :-Eastward, the Salghír, the Bulganak, the three Andols, the Tchoroksou, the Soubashi, and the Karagos, which flow into the Shiváshe or great lagoon on the east, improperly called the Putrid Sea; and on the westward, the western Bulganak, the Alma, the Katcha, and the Belbek, which discharge their waters into the long open bay at the head of which stands Eupatoria.

The peninsula of the Crimea was known to the Greeks under the name of the Taurica Chersonesus, and in the middle ages was called Gothia. It is now called either the Tauride (a version of its first appellation), or more commonly Crimea, from the famous city of Eski Krim, near Theodosia, which was built by the Tatars in the thirteenth century, and is now a ruin.

This name appears for the first time in Theophanes, page 316. He says, "Justinian remembering the plot against him of the Chersonites, the Bosphorians, and the inhabitants of the other Klimata." Some authors supposed it to refer, to the southern coast, but Dubois applies it to the northern slopes of the Tauric chain (the same country which was called Doru by the earlier writers), principally from the following passage in Constantine Porphyrogenitus:-"One part of the nation of the Patzinakes is found

next to the Chersonites, of whom they are the carriers. They always treat them well, as it would be easy for them to ravage and destroy Cherson and the Klimata." He adds, "From Cherson to the Bosphorus are the castles of the Klimata." Dubois, Voyage autour du Caucase, chez les Tcherkess Abkhazes, en Calchide, en Georgie, en Arménie, en Crimée: ouvrage qui a remporté le prix de la Société de Géographie de Paris, 1838 : vol. v. p. 5.

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