lated to attract the notice of a stranger in Lisbon is, the singularity of the Portuguese dress, so little adapted to so warm a climate. They wear a large heavy cloak both winter and summer, buttoned under the chin, with sleeves hanging useless, and a kind of high Opera hat without any ornaments. Almost the only carriage in use here is a chariot, the body of which resembles an English postchaise it moves upon two high wheels, and is drawn by two mules, upon one of which rides the postilion in his cloak and high cocked hat.---These vehicles may be hired for the day they will carry two or three persons. Sedans are also in use. I have already noticed the extreme filthiness of the streets of Lisbon, and this remark may be well applied to its inhabitants, particularly to the lower class, who in their persons and houses exhibit a picture of wretchedness inconceivable. They live chiefly upon salt fish, fisaos (a kind of pulse), and roasted chesnuts. Many of the houses are seven or eight stories high, on each of which may be found several families. The peculiar situation of Lisbon at that period, her population so suddenly augmented by thousands of refugees from the country, and two great armies at her gates on the eve of combating for her fate, may account in some degree for the distress which prevailed. The Portuguese ascribed all their grievances to the French, and if you required any thing which could not be had, the want of it was attributed to the war and the "Francezes. 29 I now take leave of my Lisbon friends, wishing them health and better times. Dec. 28. I left Lisbon in the morning, and passing through Sacaveen, Alverca, Alhandra, Villa Franca and Azambuja, arrived in the evening at Cartaxo: here I found myself more a "Newcome" than ever, for little imagining the scene of desolation which this country presented, and confiding in the imperfect information which I had obtained from persons who had either never been up the country or who were disposed to put a trick upon me, I had most improvidently left Lisbon without even a blanket or a boatcloak, and unprovided with any comforts, arrived on a cold winter's night in a crowded camp where I knew nobody. The inhabitants of the country who fled at the approach of the enemy, had but very few returned to their homes, which were in general so completely stript of their furniture that an old oak chair or deal table was considered a prize. A great part of the town had been wantonly destroyed, particularly such houses as were constructed of wood, which had been used for fuel. No sort of comforts therefore could be obtained beyond what each individual had provided for himself, and these, from the limited means of transport allowed on account of the scarcity of forage, admitted of no superfluities. Besides Lord Wellington and his head quarters, there were upwards of six thousand troops quartered in Cartaxo; every hut, nay the very stables were in some instances officers' quarters, while the soldiers were in a kind of half-bivouac amongst the ruins, and the face of the country for many miles round was studded with fires of troops in camp or bivouac. Under such circumstances, I really know not what I should have done had it not been for the kindness of Mr. M. of the Commissariat Department, who offered me a share of his quarters, such as they were. This gentleman occupied a small tenement not far from Marshal Beresford's quarters in Cartaxo, the greater part of which was in ruins. His room had not so much as a chair or table, the door was gone, and the window had no casement, even the floor had in part been torn up for fuel: here he slept on the floor in his blanket, and I laid myself down in another corner of this forlorn apartment in my great coat and worsted gloves, with my portmanteau for my pillow, and my saddle laid over my feet; as for my pony, it fared no better, there being neither hay nor straw to be obtained at any price. 29th. No morning had ever been more welcome to me than this, after passing the night in so comfortless a situation. 30th. This night a soldier of the Guards lent me his blanket for a few hours, but I had scarcely got to sleep before he called upon me to give it up; the regiment having orders to fall under arms, and the baggage to be packed with as little delay as possible, |