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WANDERINGS
IN
NORTH AFRICA.
BY
JAMES HAMILTON.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1856.
203. b.146.
INTRODUCTION
CONTENTS.
PAGE
ix
CHAPTER I.
Malta to Benghazi.-Benghazi.-Aspect of the Town.-Popu
lation.-Diseases.-Government.-Antiquities.-Dress of the
Inhabitants.-Trade.-Artisans.-Jews
CHAPTER II.
. 1
Preparations for Departure from Benghazi.—Leave Benghazi.
-Arab Horses.-Ruins of Kasa Tawileh.-Labiar.-What
an Arab is.-Mode of Travelling.-Retinue.-Silphium.—
Tombs.-Cyrene .
CHAPTER III.
Grennah.-Arab Conversation.-Fountain of Cyre.-Ruins of
Cyrene.-Interrupted by Bedawin.-Ruins of a Theatre.-
Bas-reliefs. Inscriptions.- Terraces.- Temple of Escula-
pius.-Aqueduct.-Cyrene's History unknown.-Its Ruinous
18
state
CHAPTER IV.
33
Interview with the Bey.-Arab Feast.-The Bey's Hospitality 55
CHAPTER V.
Meditations at Sunrise.-Violation of the Tombs.-Descrip-
tion of the Tombs.-Allegorical Figures.-Splendid Tomb.
-Curious Tombs.-Lively Vale.-Unartistic Statues
CHAPTER VI.
Charming Scenery.-Arab Summer Dwellings.-Ruins of Apol-
lonia.-Ancient Granaries.-Chapels over Saints' Tombs.-
Abd-el-Kader's Warriors.-Temple of Bacchus
CHAPTER VII.
Grennah, a Charming Retreat-Pleasant Camping-ground.—
Rencontre with an Arab Saint-The Son of a Rich Prince.-
Striking Cures
62
78
. 92
CHAPTER VIII.
An Arab "Vendetta."-Coquetry at the Wells.-A Bridal Pro-
cession.-The Okbah Pass
. 103
CHAPTER IX.
Improvidence of the Arabs.-Derna, its lively appearance.-
Ruined Battery.-Curious Bargain
CHAPTER X.
Convent Agriculture.—A Roman Stronghold.-Splendid Olive
Groves. Water runs short.-The Mirage.-Dine with the
Governor.-The Site of Ancient Barca.-Quit the Plain of
Merdj.
113
. 122
CHAPTER XI.
Tomb of a Ptolemy.-Unequal Taxation.-What a Wife costs.
-Ruins of Tolmeta.-Wall around Tancra.-Good State of
the Ruins. The Rains.-Arab Tents.-Return to Benghazi 138
CHAPTER XII.
What a Consul should be.-Turkish Oppression.-Official Cor-
ruption.-Universal Venality.-The Moslem hates the Chris-
vii
tian
CHAPTER XIII.
. 154
Benghazi to Angila.-Corn Stores.-Cachettes.-Ruins near El-
Farsy.-Remarkable Fortress.-Horrors of the Slave Trade.
-England should forbid it.-Herds of Gazelles.-Bruce.-
Rě sam.-Oasis of Angila
CHAPTER XIV.
Angila and Jalo.-Group of Oases.-The Majabra Arabs.-The
Sultan of Waday.-Turkish Drunkards.-Inconveniences of
Travel .
165
. 187
CHAPTER XV.
The rival Sheikhs.-Weary Days at Angila.-Chain of Oases.
-Marriage Feasts.-Marriage Gifts
CHAPTER XVI.
Vexatious Delay.-Lose the Track.-Short commons in the
Desert.-Genuine Arab Hospitality.-En route for Siwah.-
Sand Valleys.-Scene of Desolation.-Signs of Volcanic
Action. Approach Siwah.-Sepulchral Caves.- Arrive at
Siwah
204
215
CHAPTER XVII.
Encampment at Siwah.-Conference with the Sheikhs.-Refuse
to quit Siwah.-Attack on the Tents.-Detained at Siwah.
-Incidents while imprisoned.-Defensive Preparations.-
A South Wind blows Good Luck.-Manners, &c., of the Peo-
ple. Their Appearance and Dress.-An Industrious Race . 237