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Le cygne sera certainement employé aussi pour garniture de ce gnre.
On comprend combien serait joli pour une toute jeune femme une large robe de chambre en satin rose, bordée de cygne, jetée sur un peignoir de batiste brodé et garni, avec un gracieux bonnet en point d'Angleterre orné de rubans roses.
FOURURES.—Les manchons seront de plus en plus nombreux, à juger de l'empressement avec lequel on les a adoptés cette année; ils sont en marte de différentes espèces.
Quant aux boas, on en voit encore çà et là quelquesuns, qui viennent rappeler qu'ils ont un jour eu leur faveur, mais la mode n'en existe plus.
Les palatines les remplaceront pour grand négligé ou toilette de voyage.
Pour les manteaux doublés en fourures, leur valeur les met en dehors des caprices de la mode, et ils seront toujours un luxe très distingué.
CHAPEAUX.—Comme genre très-simple, nous dirons qu'on porte beaucoup de chapeaux en velours plein mordoré, vert, violet, marron, ramona, n'ayant pour ornement qu'un double de ruban de satin de la même nuance placé sur le côté.
Dessous la passe des chapeaux en velours, on voit beuacoup de blondes placées à plat sur le front et arrétées aux deux côtés par des touffes de coques de rubans ou de fleurs, Nous citerons un joli chapeau de satin rose, avec un bouquet de plumes roses sur la passe, et en dessous, une seule scabieuse de chaque côté, et entouré de blonde. Cet ornement était très-distingué.
Pour qu'un chapeau de velours noir soit encore à la mode, il doit être orné d'une ou deux plumes noires d'une grande beauté.
Les velours et les reps de fantaisie sont employés comme négligés et comme parures ; les uns de couleurs suaves et douces, les autres de couleurs plus ternes et plus findécises. Les velours d'Ispahan ont un côté de laine cachée sous le travail de la soie, et tiennent le milieu entre le velours épingle et le velours simulé. Moins paré que le premier, plus soutenu que le second, il fait des plis admirables et brille en beaux reflets à la lumière. Quelques nuances, particulièrement sont heureuses et seyantes, le bleu royal, le vert gazon, le gris argent et l'isabelle; pour robes tout-à-fait parées, pour robes de mariee, le velours d'Ispahan est doux et très-riche.
Viennient ensuite ces mêmes velours façonnés; les couleurs de demi-teintes, avec des ourlets fendus en biais, en velours plein, font de charmantes redingotes pour demi-toilettes.
Les nuances roses, gris pâle, sont à peu près les seules nuances, très-pâles que l'on porte le soir ; le bleu-ciel n'est pas de mauvais goût, mais il n'est pas de mode.
Les levantines brochées sont aussi jolies et plus simples ; comme elles ont moins d'éclat, elles conviennent à des toilettes plus modestes, et nous les conseillons comme robes du soir aux personnes qui ne veulent pas porter de satin et n'aiment pas la laine.
Car la laine encore se prête à toutes les exigences. Nous avons vu des florences de laine, tissu fin et transparent comme l'étoffe dont il a pris le nom, sur lequel se dessinent brillantes des fleurs jetées, ou des lignes contrariées en carreaux écossais. Pour le négligé, les satins de laine, aussi doux, aussi soyeux que le cachemire, ont pris un cachet de nouveauté, par un plein semé de mille pois et petites fleurettes délicates et de très-petite dimension. Le satin de laine est une ressource comme durée, en même tems qu'il reste fort bien porté.
Peignoirs.-Les robes de chambre ou peignoirs que l'on porte chez soi deviennent un objet de luxe qui sera bientôt plus dispendieux qu'aucune élégante parure. Nous avons déjà beaucoup parlé de peignoirs onatés et piqués gris doublés de rose; brun, doublés de bleu. Ceci peut être du domaine de tout le monde ; mais nous venons de voir des robes de chambre en reps indieri, en armure et en poult de soie broché, donblées en peluche, qui sont d'un goût admirable. Elles se font tellement amples et les manches sont si larges qu’on les met pardessus une robe plus légère, en manière de pelisse: costume charmant, goût d'une coquette frileuse. Nous citerons en ce genre une robe de chambre en reps biche. doublée de satin bleu; la doublure piqué à petits damiers comme les belles courtes-pointes, et tout autour un rouleau de marte. La pélerine est grande et flottante; les manches, sans poignets, sont larges du bas. Un ruban de satin bleu, attaché de côté et terminé par un næud, serre le poignet. Les plis du dos sont marqués et retenus sous une cordelière bleue qui vient se nouer sur le devant lorsqu'on veut serrer la taille.
Education. The period of confinement in schools is much too long for the health of all children, and might be abridged not only without detriment, but with advantage to their instruction: the young mind is easily wearied, and it is not sufficiently considered that the development of the intellectnal powers ought for a time to give way, in delicate children, to the physical improvement of the general system.
The situation and construction of the school should be free from all the objections which I have already pointed out, when noticing the causes of unhealthiness in country residences. School-rooms ought to be large and lofty, so as to admit of free ventilation, without the risk of exposure to currents of cold air. The impure atmosphere which too commonly prevails in schools is an unfailing source of injury to health. During the first years of education, children should be allowed a little relaxation and play in the open air when the weather permits, at intervals during the school hours. At no period of youth should education be pushed beyond its proper limits, or the mind be worked above its powers ; the welfare of the pupil de. mands the observance of this rule on the part of the master as well as the parents, more especially when the child belongs to that class of strumous children whose intellects are preternaturally acute. Unfortunately, however, these are generally the pupils selected by the master to do credit to his establishment; every means are taken to encourage this premature manifestation of mind, and to stimulate the child to renewed exertions; and thus the health is en feebled, and even life is often sacrificed at a period of brilliant promise, when the hopes of friends are buoyed up by fallacious expectations, wbich a more rational system of education might have realized.
The consequences just noticed as arising from the erroneous system of education in the schools for boys, prevail in a greater degree, and are productive of more injury, in female boardingschools. If the plans pursued at many of these establishments were intended to injure the health of the pupils, they could scarcely be better contrived to effect that purpose. The prevailing system of female education is, indeed, fraught with the most pernicious consequences. At a period of life when the development of the syslem demands the most judicious management, young girls are sent to schools where almost the only object which appears to claiin consideration, is the amount of mental improvement, or rather the variety of accomplishments with which they can be stored, At an early hour in the morning the pupil is set down to music or the drawing table, where she remains, often in a constrained position, in a cold room, till the whole frame, and more especially the lower extremities, become chilled ;-the brief relaxation during the short space allowed for meals and the formal walk, is insufficient to restore the natural warmth of the extremities ; and it often happens that girls are allowed to retire to bed with their feet so cold as
frequently to prevent sleep for hours. Those who are ac. quainted with the general system of the boarding schools of this country will allow that this is no exaggerated picture. A delicate giri submitted to such a discipline cannot escape disease. While school-boys have the advantage of a play-ground, or enjoy their recreation at pleasure in the open fields, the unfortunate inmates of a female boarding-school are only permitted to walk along the foot-paths in pairs, in stiff and monotonous formality, resembling, as Beddoes justly remarks, a funeral procession. The consequence is, that the muscles of the upper extremities and those which are chiefly concerned in the support of the trunk are rarely called into active play; they do not acquire strength as the body increases in stature,-they remain weak and unequal to the task of supporting the trunk in the erect posture. A curved state of the spine is generally the consequence; and this, by altering the natural position and form of the trunk, renders the respiratory movements imperfect ; the capacity of the chest is diminished, and the lungs are consequently more liable to congestion, and the diseases which are its consequences.
While the natural form and proportions of the body are thus destroyed, the health generally suffers in a remarkable manner. This is generally manifested by the paleness of the countenance, by a deranged state of the digestive organs, by a dry, coarse skin, cutaneous eruptions, and other indications of deteriorated health. In short, almost all the requisites for the production of scrofula may he found in female boarding schools, where the system I have described is pursued.
There are many exceptions to this system of hoarding-school discipline, and the number would no doubt be greatly increased if the conductors were aware of one-half of the extent of the injurious effects it produces. In the establishments to which I allude, as being conducted on more rational principles, the cul. tivation of the mind and the acquirement of the various female accomplishments are not only the objects aimed at ; the health of the girls forme, as it ought, the first and paramount consideration. The time devoted to daily study hy the present system should be greatly abridged, and that allowed for exercise augmented in proportion ; the exercise shonld also be such as to call into action every muscle of the body.
The clothing during the winter ought to be warm, and every means should be adopted to guard against coldness of the extremities. The pupils should not be allowed to sit long at one time as to induce this state, nor to go to bed with chilled feet. Were I to select any one circonstance more injurious than another to the health of young girls, it would be cold ex. tremities, the consequence of want of active exercise, and the prevailing and most pernicious habit of wearing thin shoes while in the house.
A warm bath ought to form an appendage to every boardingschool, and every girl should orcasionally enjoy the benefit of it. A large, lofty, and well-ventilated room should be set apart for the express purpose of exercise, when the weather is such as to prevent it in the open air. A system of gymnastics is quite as necessary for girls as for boys. 'They shoull be suficiently varied as to give free play to all the muscles, and more especially to those of the frunk and upper extremities. If the girl has any tendency to curvature of ihe spine, those exercises which are most effectual in correcting this deformity should constitute a part of the daily exercise. To the room devoted to these exercises, the younger girls should be allowed to retire for a short time, during the usual hours of school, to amuse themselves at pleasure. This recreation I cousider of the utmost importance ; it mus!, nevertheless, be understood that no exercise to be considered a substitute for that in the open air ; and for this reason every female boarding-school ought to have a play-ground, wliere the pupils may choose their own amusements and play without restraint.--Clark's Treatise on Consumption.
The Active Man.He is not only active himself, but the ranse of unwilling activity in others. Has it ever been thy fate, oh idle read's! (for i will call the idle seeing *hat thou art my companion) to travel with one of these beings? It is, indeed, a purgatory! How will he fret and fume, and turn himself in his narrow prison ; how will he contrive to walk up and down the carriage, and dive into sword-cases, and plunge into pockets, and all to find a bundle of phamphlets, or Patterson's Road-book! Then, what pullings up, and puttings down, of window-blinds; what mysterious contrivances for his own or your comfort; whiat inquiries about stages ; what calculations of distances; as if it siguified to the true philosopher, which way he goes, or how long it takes hin ! how will he stretch bis whole body, out of the carriage window, to look at soine paltry country-seat, or smoky manufactory! how will he even leap
in and out of the half-opened door, when any object by the way-side attracts his curiosity, at the risk of breaking his neck, or running a mile after the carriage! Then how he will talk! that is, indeed, the worst part of your suffering ! it is in vain that you try to compromise the matter, that you admire, with eager and assenting civility the beauty of a distant view, which you do not see, or own the inconvenience of the dust, which you do not feel; vain is your uncalled-for remark on the good or bad driving, or the length of the way, made in the fond hope of quieting the restless friend by your side, by this sacrifice to the painful duties of companionship; no, he will not read his pamphlet in peace, and leave you to your cogitations; he will have you admire his prospect, or feel his jolt; he requires your sympathy at every moment, he is dependant upon you for the larger half of his emotions !- The Keepsake.
That Old Birds are not to be caught with Chaff.—The older the bird, the more he flatters hinself that he is worth catching He is easily caught, were it worth while ; but you have caught nothing, perhaps, when you have got him. Chaff is too va. luable, too precious, to be expended wastefully : and because you are not so silly as to throw powder away, he conceives hinself to be shot-proof. As nobody tries to catch him, he fondly persuades himself that his own exceeding canning secures him from capture “ Take me if you can," chirps be ; and goes dodging about the wood as though a flock of golden vultures were pursuing him. He is quite safe. He has not the felicity of being in peril. The young condor, pressed even by vulgar appetite, will not do him the honour of dining upon him. His toughness and antiquity are such safeguards. He is only not captured because there is nothing captivating about him. But if, by any chance, he hath a tail-feather fit for plucking, or a bone worthy the distinction of being picked, then is your old bird in imminent danger, for you may catch him when you like with half a pinch of chaff. The tender foxling, not arrived at the maturi!y of slyness, who never tasted chicken of his own stealing, shall take him without a rufile of his plumage-only by pronouncing its dingy brown to he rich crimson.- What focks of old birds flutter about in society, all sure that they never shall be caged, and all safe until a lure is laid for them! But the longer they live the less chance have they of avoiding the tran. The older they grow, the slenderer the means of escape. The starched matron is fain to put faith in the compliment which, in her day of youth and grace, she knew to be nonsense. She is now only half-handsone, and can no longer afford to think her eyes less brilliant than she is told they are. She must make up, by exaggerating what is left, for the loss of what is gone. She is not now in a condition to call a fine remark rank fattery; she is obliged to believe, in self-defence. If her mirror will not admit of this. she has other resources ; she has sage counsel, admirable judgment, perfect knowledge of the world. Admire these, and, with a dignity which you call Siddonian, she confesses that she is yours. You have only to convert the compliment to her beauty at twenty into a tribute to her sagacity at fifty-five. Tell her she is not to be imposed upon, and you impose upon her effectually. Admire her penetration, and you will not find her impenetrable. The old bird devoutly believes he is no goose. The grey-headed adventurer, who would not marry at twentysix because the lady had only a little beauty and five thousand pounds, is taken in, thiriy years afterwards, by a plain widow with a ready made family instead of an estate. The moralist of threescore is ruined in three months by a figurante; and the man of refinement, fastidious up to seventy-two, - marries his cook,” Not caught with chaff! The old bird sniffs it afar off. Not a curate in the kingdom that does not once a week unite in holv wedlock threescore-and-ten to fourscore, or fourscore to
The ancient gentleman fwho has seen the world, who is profoundedly experienced. and much too deep to be the dupe of an age so shallow as this, is to be won by an adıniring glance at the brilliancy of his knee-huckle ; praise his very pigtail, and you may lead him by it. None are se easily taken in as the “ knowing ones.” The knowing one is generally an egregious pinny. The man who loses his last shilling at Doncaster, is no other than he who was sure of winning ; who could prove by bis betting- book that he must win by backing Chaff against the field. He is a fine specimen of the family of the Odbirds. So is the careful, cautious wight, the original Master Sure-card, the man of many sayings, who in his old age falis in love with a Loan; who dies in prison from the pres. sure of foreign bonds, or drowns himself in the new canal by way of securing what he calls his share. The genuine old bird is a pigeon.-From a Ner Serius of Popular Fallacies in the last New Monthly.
88, 147, 152, 168.
Rich and Poor
Woman (the Condition of)