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are other stedfast patterns of the beautiful Italian straws, which are giving great latitude to taste in the ornamenting of them with flowers of every kind, and especially the simple wild flower may be seen scattered amongst them, some of them exhibiting a really elegant taste.
The brims are deeper and closer in general, though this is a style so much at variance with the becoming display of a certain pretty cast of features, that the adoption of the round open shape is frequently prefered.
Crowns are also rather higher with the drawn capotes than last season, they are much worn with long bavelots. Flowers are disposed both inside and outside of the brim, but not on neglige hats, with which flowers under the brim should be avoided.
For the Opera, white straw hats are becomingly ornamented with a foulard ribbon with lilac, green, and cherry-colored border; some with iced ribbon with a fringed edging of gold and white, and a couple of rich feathers matching perfectly with the ribbon. Also rose poult de soie capotes, iced, as well as en cor. deliere; straw, green, and sulphur-colors are also frosted, and the new flower introduced at Longchamps, the batton is a becoming ornament.
Neglige as well as dress caps are still elevated in front, but lace trimmings take the place of tulle.
A becoming mode of ornamenting caps is to place a small quantity of plain lace, rather on one side of the front part of the cap, and underneath, a gathered edging.
Embroidered muslin barbes take the place of brides.
The Indian-grass hats lately introduced, have, when lightly and tastefully trimmed, a pretty appearance, for the morning promenade especially.
MATERIALS & COLORS. The materials which are in most requisition, are not to be very plainly defined, the varieties being mostly of a similar nature to those which we last month designated, but being modified in such slight particulars as scarcely to come within the scope of a written description.
Printed muslins are seen in great profusion, colors are lavishly blended and frequently violently contrasted.
Blue, green, lilac and violet are seen together separate and in shades of the most delicately blent hues.
In the selection, attention may be most particularly directed to the complexion and height, which may materially influence the choice of a pattern, some being, as they were last year, so enormously large as almost to obscure a petite figure.
For capotes, Scotch gros de Naples is as much as ever worn with ribbons to match. We see together green and white, rose and white, lilac and white, as well as many of a deeper hue ; yellow and brown, blue and scabiouse, green and scarlet.
Small patterus seem on the whole, though there are so great a variety of every size and style, to have the preference. Some of the stripes are very large and in numerous instances on a white ground with small sprigs between,
Violent contrasts in color may be now frequently observed among many ladies with undisputable pretensions to taste; rose and blue and other combinations of a similar character are worn together. Nevertheless, the exquisite blending of various shades now accomplished in some of our summer materials, must be ac. knowledged as eminently beautiful.
A new Parisian fabric very suitable for summer dress, is called the Savoy gauze, it is remarkable for lightness and pliability, and is not deficient in firmness of texture. The Tripolin is something of this texture, but of different materials.
The Lacordaire* green is a much admired tint in the Parisian circles.
Varieties.- Pocket handkerchiefs a riviere are now much in vogue, they are without hem, and finished off round the edge by open work lace, of the depth of about an inch and a half with a scolloped edging. Valencienne is sometimes gathered round of considerable thickness and of the richest kind. For negliges, open riviere wi
a double row of fluted valencienne, are frequently ranged round cambric collar.
The pelerines and the fronts of cambric peignoirs are frequently surrounded with small similarly scol. loped trimmings.
Elegant manchettes of batiste or embroidered muslin are worn with even a neglige dress.
Gimp, especially with Scotch silks is very much used, some of the varieties are particularly becoming, especially when tastefully disposed on a commanding figure.
Ribbons for wearing round the neck are worn in every conceivable variety of pattern and style, worked, streaked, fringed, and double or single to suit the taste.
The Barbary or Egyptian shawls of a large but soft texture ; a kind of cachemere, will doubtless supplant the unwieldy and generally unbecoming tartan shawls.
For the Opera, Berthe Ferronière or Normandin's new head-dress la victime, are much worn.
Collars partake very largely of the general latitude in dress: they have no prescribed forms, nor order of trimming, taste is the only guide.
The children of from two to eight years old, little straw capotes, the front nearly even with the crown, are much employed; a rose colored or blue crossed barred ribbon, lined with the same, a ruche round the brim generally ornament them.
Black mittens, which it is an amusement to embroider, surrounded with a silk fringe and black thread embroidered ones, as well as white or grey silk gloves are worn, however a well made leather glove, is perhaps after all preferable. For the sake of beauty of appearance, Swedish gloves have the preference.
Pelerines in organdi are frequently worn with two capes; in the broad hem is passed a ribbon (in the manner represented in our fourth plate) which gives a very pleasing finish to the formation whether round. square or with lappets is entirely arbitrary, in the latter instance, they are brought beneath the ceinture and match with it.
*Its origin is said by the “ Follet” to be derived from the attention excited by the ecclesiastical anathemas of the celebrated abbé Lacordaire, against “the pomps and vanities." The vert Lacordaire might be seen to grace the seats under bis very pulpit!
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
PLATE I. Figure 1.-Walking Dress.-Gros de Naples dress corsage rather high, fitting close to the shape and ga! thered both behind and before, surmounted by an em. broidered étole hanging more than half way down the skirt; sleeves tight fitting to the arm, round the upper part of which hangs an outer sleeve, cupola shaped. Poult de soie hat ornamented with a sprig of foliage.
Figure 2.-PROMENADE COSTUME.-Tripoline dress tight fitting corsage; muslin pelerine ornamented with narrow lace placed diagonally, having a double satin edging extending beyond the shoulder, it is similarly ornamented down the inside lengths at regular intervals, having narrow lace edging round each. Silk drawn capote, front rather open, ornamented with ribbon nouds.
FIGURE 3.-WALKING DRESS.-Scotch cordeline ress, high mounting, close fitting corsage, surmounted by a double ruff draped on each side of the front, from the shoulders to the middle of the ceinture, gathered over the top of the arm en epaulettes, the sleeve which is confined near the wrist by a band, assumes the form of two globes, the upper one about double the size of that beneath. From the ceinture, the whole length of the skirt and forming a continuation to the draping above, run a couple of double lines of gathers, figuring tablier. Small shaped rice straw hat ornamented with flowers.
First HAT AND BACK VIEW.–Tuscan, small oval shaped front, bordered all round the brim and back with satin, ornamented with blue bells and narrow ribbons.
First Capote.-A gros des Indes capote falling low on the face, high crown, a ribbon naud from which arise several light sprigs on the summit of the crown.
Second Hat & Back View.-Marceline hat, open shape, crown rather short and conical, ornamented with a single sprig of blue bells.
Second Capote.-Drawn silk capote, round crown simply ornamented with ribbon næuds.
PLATE II. FIGURE 1.-Evening Dress.-A dress of Savoy gauze, high mounting corsage, fitting tight to the shape, on the extremity of the shoulder is fixed a ribbon næud from which both in front and back, rich embroidery extends to the ceinture as well as down part of the skirt; sleeves full to the wrist round which is a tight band. Cap pointed at the summit of the front and on each side with satin ornaments.
FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Cordeline dress, corsage of similar make as the preceding, draped from each shoulder to the ceinture, epaulette folds connecting the sleeve which is full the whole way; the skirt is ornamented en tablier with diamond pieces fretted round, graduating to the termination. Hat of Indian grass, short and elevated in the brim, underneath which, and on the summit of the crown, are sprigs of Howers,
Figure 3, AND Back View.- MORNING PROMENade Dress.-Tulle dress, half high mounting cor. sage, wide sleeves and plain skirt, embroidereed pelerine, the top drawn round with ribbon tied with a næud, edged round with rich scolloped lace, the ends divided en cæur, hanging below the ceinture. Tuscan straw capote, brim forming a scarcely perceptible angle with the crown, round corners, turned off at the back, large asteroid ornaments on the outside, and one underneath the brim.
First Capore-Formed of ribbons, low brim, forming but a slight slope with the crown, whi round, with a wide ribbon gathered round and tied underneath
a rather wide curtain, and vandyked ribbon gathered in the middle.
Middle Hat.-A rice-straw hat, round open shape, elevated crown, lilac blossom with a few leaves, orna. menting the top.
Second HAT---Wide open brim, ornamented with ribbon næuds.
Second CapoTE.–Tuscan straw capote, the brim, retreating at the top, the side view forming a sort of half oval, the top surmounted by a næud and sprig of flowers.
Blond CAP & BACK View.-Ribbon bands inside and on the right hand corner a bouquet.
PLATE III. FIGURE 1.-Evening Dress.-Chali dress closefitting corsage en pointe, the upper part, both front and back draped and ornamented with narrow scolloped lace, nænds at regular intervals are placed down the front; wide skirt caught up nearly a foot above the hem, by large næuds with flowing ends above which are large flowers; ihe sleeves which are short are similarly ornamented on a smaller scale. An embroidered gauze handkerchief is folded into a tocquet forn amongst the hair.
Figure 2.—Evening Dress.—Levantine peignoir, the corsage made to fit entirely close to the shape, and in minute perpendicular pipings, which extend to the epaulettes, round the bottom of which in union with the sleeve is a band of ribbon tied in a næud, the sleeves hanging wide below the elbow and terminated by a blond trimming, a similar one to which, but on a larger scale, ornaments the front of the robe, enlarging in size to the hem, the hair is ornamented with some light sprigs.
FIGURE 3.—Opera Dress.—Muslin dress half high mounting corsage, wide sleeves to the wrist and plain skirt; embroidered crape, pelerine, edged with a ruche cut in at the corsage has long lappets with rounded ends, extending beyond the middle of the skirt; a rice straw hat, is ornamented with a bird of paradise.
First Hat and Back View.--Tuscan Straw Hat, round open shape ornamented with a large neud on the extremity of the crown, and within and without with sprigs.
Second Hat And Back View.-Paille de riz hat, wide open shape, satin bands connecting the inside with the crown which is of satin, with a vandyked bordering, the under part is terminated by a næud from which depends two ends similarly edged, a couple of ostrich feathers hang from the crown.
Centre Hats.— Tuscan Straw, ornamented with bouquets and ribbon nauds.
PLATE IV. Figure 1 Walking Dress.-Striped gauze redingote. Hat formed of striped ribbon.
FIGURE 2 MORNING Dress.-An embroidered ca. chemere wrapper, open corsage, worked chemisette.
FIGURE 3.—WALKING DRESS.-Worked lace redingote, high mounting corsage, ornamented with satin puffing piped on each side, and edged with lace.
First Hat & Back View.-Gros d'Italie hat.
Second Han.-Similarly shaped in front to the above the crown elevated and conical, ribbon bows.
First CaPOTE.--A poult de soie capote.