more. This popular prejudice seems to render necessary the fulfilment of Mrs. Ellis's anxious desire that there should be a liberty asylum, an intermediate resting-place, for these poor people between their present quiet home and the bustling abodes to which they must return. These people are paupers. They cannot command leisure when they feel troubled, or rest when their new strength fails them. However, they may feel overcome during their first weeks of re-entrance upon life, they must seek for work, and do it to get bread. This is their happiest lot, Few of them escape being wounded by some shyness, some intimation that, having been in a mad-house, they will never again be on equal terms with the rest of the world. They are well aware of this beforehand, as is shown by their falling tears when Mrs. Ellis's last benevolent smile is upon them. Her parting blessing is a blessing. She invites them to come home," whenever they find themselves uncomfortable; and the feeling that they can do so, supports them when they go forth from their safe and kindly retreat, to shift for themselves in the cold world. The use made of the invitation shows this. A painter who had long experienced the kindness of Dr. and Mrs. Ellis, at Wakefield, was grieved to leave them. Some time after he had returned to his business in the world, he had a typhus fever; and when he was recovering, his first desire was to get back into his old quarters.

་་

I will go up to the asylum," said he; "I am sure they will give me a nursing till I get strong." And so they did. But no invitation to return, no possible ordering of circumstances with respect to them in the Hanwell institution, will serve the purpose of a liberty asylum, where all will be rational, and at perfect liberty to go in and out in pursuit of their daily labour and other business in the world. It is to secure them quiet nights, and a clean and orderly home, and a refuge from wounding treatment when first resuming labours and anxieties, which are quite enough for a delicate brain to bear, that this liberty asylum is desired. Till such an establishment exists, there will be a failure of justice towards Dr. and Mrs. Ellis, and of mercy to their charge.

But there is another arrangement even more desirable than this. In witnessing the results of this splendid philanthropic experiment, nothing painful was intermingled with my delight but the thought of how much hangs upon two lives. This is too frail a dependence

for a scheme which involves so vast an amount of human happiness. The best acknowledgment which society in its gratitude can make to Dr. and Mrs. Ellis is to take care that their work shall be perpetuated when they rest from their labours. They have still the sorrow, after their long and intrepid toils, of finding themselves unaided, even in their own institution, by the services of hearts and minds like their own. How is it possible that servants should be fit for so peculiar an office as that of tending the insane, when no pains have yet been taken to train them? By common consent, lunatics have hitherto been treated as babes, or as wild animals, soothed by falsehoods, kept in awe by harshness, or controlled by violence, The race of servants is not likely to be the first to perceive the folly and iniquity of these methods, and to set about speaking nothing but truth, and uttering nothing but mildness through all the temptations and provocations they must meet with in the discharge of their office. It is

high time that some arrangement was adopted for training governors for their responsibilities, and servants for their work. Mrs. Ellis truly says, that there is little to be taught,-good sense and kindness (unteachable requisites!) being the life and soul of the system, if system it may be called. But there is much to be unlearned; and people are disabused of their prejudices by example and not by precept. Dr. and Mrs. Ellis ought not to be left to pick out the best assistants they can collect from the multitude of ignorant mercenaries who apply for service. It should be the care of the benevolent to be on the watch for persons worthy to assist and succeed them, and bring those persons under the operation of the benignant examples of the governor of the Hanwell house, and of his lady. We may then feel certain that the social benefit originated by them is made fast and safe, and that future generations will have cause to bless their names.

We

Some future generation will perhaps be more sensible than we are of the remarkable circumstance which this institution presents to us, in the equal participation of a woman in one of the most magnificent achievements. The grandest philanthropic experiments which have hitherto proved undoubtedly successful, have been the work of men; and it has been thought enough for women to be permitted to follow and assist. Here is an instance, unsurpassed in importance, where a woman has, at least, equally participated! an instance, too, where more was required than the spirit of love, patience, and fortitude, for which credit has always been granted to the high-minded of the sex. Α strong and sound intellect was here no less necessary than a kind heart. The very first act was an intrepid stripping off of prejudices, and an enlightened discernment alike of the end to be attained and the means to be chosen. The instrument has been proved perfectly equal to the work, and the sex is placed in a new state of privilege. Some will be doubtless found to perceive and make use of it. Women who are dejectedly looking round for some opening through which they may push forth their powers of intellect as well as their moral energies, will set Mrs. Ellis's example before them, and feel that the insane are their charge. may wait till the end of the world, for a nobler office than that of building up the ruins of a mind into its original noble structure. Not the faithful Jews, restoring the temple of Jehovah by night, with arms by their sides, were engaged in so hallowed a task. involves some few perils, and a multitude of irksome toils; and the weight of the sympathies which it puts in action, are at times as much as can be sustained : but the spirit rises to meet its responsibilities; and it has never yet been proved to what peril and what toil the bravery and patience of woman are unequal. They will not fail, in an instance like this, where it is known that the contest is with an evil which has only to be fairly met, to give ground, day by day, If it is true of woman that she can hope against hope, and toil against unceasing discouragement, there is no question what she can and will do towards a work whose completion is, if she will believe it, in her own hands.

They

Tait's Magazine.

it

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES,
INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM

"Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" Journal de Paris et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'Indiscret". -"Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le Mercure des Salons,," &c. &c,

Our great goddess whose iron sway it may justly be said, extends over the whole fashionable world, without responsibility or appeal, now rules thanks to the good taste of the leaders of the ton, with a less tyrannous dictation, but it must not be supposed on that account, that her decrees are the less heeded-on the contrary, as they are more consonant with general taste, and less arbitrary and precise in particular enactments, more universal attention is gained for them.

Formerly it was the height of heterodoxy to wear a fur ornament, or silken fabric, or piece of lace otherwise than the prescribed sort, and at any other period than the one appointed. The imperious dictatorship is overthrown and a milder regime is established, one which having taste for a counsellor, is built upon a more enduring foundation.

The extremes of temperature which we have lately experienced, have influenced the costume in a remarkable manner, and while presenting a selection of the most striking examples of the reigning mode, it will be remembered that the texture of the various fabrics employed, and even the style are so much the result of the varieties of the season, that ample latitude may be given, and our illustrations may be modified to suit individual taste to a greater extent than usual.

DRESSES.. For decidedly fair weather the muslin peignoir is an elegant costume, particularly for a small neat figure; one of Indian muslin embroidered au plumetis, we were much pleased with; it was lined with straw-coloured gros de Naples, similar pelerine edged with point lace, similarly coloured gloves, grey satin boots; rice-straw hat ornamented with a half garland of spring flowers.

We will cite in the first instance a few examples of redingotes, which are in great estimation for summer

wear.

A redingotte of poult de soie worked in blue upon an undressed ground; a double pelerine embroidered in blue; the skirt closed by noeuds partly like the dress and partly white. Pale blue crape capote, ornamented with a crescent of white wild roses, placed diagonally on the front of the brim, and terminated by blue gauze ribbons forming brides. Boots of gros de Naples.

A redingotte of worked gros d'été, color London smoke, embroidered with roses and closed by nœuds of similar fabric embroidery; corsage in large folds in a fan-like form across the bust; embroidered collar edged with Mechlin lace. A ribbon etole with rose and white checquers. Capote à coulisses in Scotch gros de Naples rose and white.

Another of fouia.d de satin, fond ecrue, cachemere patterns, lined with blue taffeta, embroidered in different colors. Pelerine full and somewhat open on the dust. Sleeves large, wristbands extending high up the

arm.

Indian muslin collar, embroidered au plumetis, and edged with point lace, Muslin petticoat ornamented

with an embroidered volaut. Hat of Italian straw, adorned with two large straw-colored feathers.

A muslin redingote, ground white, with bouquets of roses, ornamented in front and on the pelerine with very fine lace. Capote of à coulisse in white gros de Naples, rose-coloured lining, adorned with a rose on the side of the crown.

A vast number of redingotes might be observed of silk, in small checquers, color over color, and lined with rose-colored or blue taffeta, exhibiting a pretty underneath dress of embroidered cambric or muslin. The toilet was completed in many instances by rosecolored or blue crape capotes or checquered gros de Naples-ribbon étole and cravat of similar color.

A somewhat heavier texture for weather of a lower temperature is gros de Naples, which has the advantage of not being in a remarkable degree unfit for any changes of heat or cold. A brown-colored dress of gros de Naples, checquered in clear blue satin, worked in gothic designs, had a pelerine trimmed with a twisted blue and brown fringe. To complete the toilette a ribbon in similar style was retained round the neck by a enamelled diamond broach. A rice-straw capote was ornamented with blue bells, a few small ones descended from the inside of the brim down each side of the face; the sleeves made à l'imbécile, were retained from the elbow to the wrist by light bands.

Muslin peignoirs lined with sarsnet of the same color as the dress are as much as ever worn. Lilac is a favorite color, and is employed in the ribbon nœuds which unite the opening of the skirt in the under dress may be perceived gathered rows of lace three deep.

Many redingotes of bronze, marron,, or myrtle-colored marceline, have round the circumference of the skirt and the pelerine, small band en biais in rose-colored, blue, or green gros de Naples, in every instance in striking contrast with the tint of the dress; to strengthen these bands wadding is employed.

A description of sleeve that is parted at the shoulders, exhibits to advantage a rose, blue, or other coloured lining assorting with the dress.

Under the peignoir, an elegantly embroidered peticoat is indispensable, it should be as much as possible assorted with the pattern of the wrapper. This order is at times reversed, when the wrapper is sumptuously embroidered a mere column of embroidery is perceptible, to avoid destroying the effect by an overcharged decoration.

The Amandis sleeve is falling into disrepute.

The cupola sleeve, designed in our plate, should be carefully made, to avoid too stiff an appearance, in order to give it its proper effect.

The horse hair sleeves" possesses the advantage of great lightness and coolness, and will doubtless supersede the eider-down sleeve for the season.

We have remarked a very elegant dress of cambric, the pattern was composed of sprigs, buff with lilac flowers alternated with beautiful green foliage; the corsage partially draped, without epaulettes.

HATS CAPS &c.-With hats the cottage variety of one kind or another is with us to be in present estimation, our lively continental neighbours who borrowed this style from us, are now delighting themselves with the drawn capotes; those of checquered silks in every combination of color, but more particularly, pink, blue, lilac and white, are amazingly liked, but, there

are other stedfast patterns of the beautiful Italian straws, which are giving great latitude to taste in the ornamenting of them with flowers of every kind, and especially the simple wild flower may be seen scattered amongst them, some of them exhibiting a really elegant

taste.

The brims are deeper and closer in general, though this is a style so much at variance with the becoming display of a certain pretty cast of features, that the adoption of the round open shape is frequently prefered.

Crowns are also rather higher with the drawn capotes than last season, they are much worn with long bavelots. Flowers are disposed both inside and outside of the brim, but not on neglige hats, with which flowers under the brim should be avoided.

For the Opera, white straw hats are becomingly ornamented with a foulard ribbon with lilac, green, and cherry-colored border; some with iced ribbon with a fringed edging of gold and white, and a couple of rich feathers matching perfectly with the ribbon. Also rose poult de soie capotes, iced, as well as en cordeliere; straw, green, and sulphur-colors are also frosted, and the new flower introduced at Longchamps, the batton is a becoming ornament.

Neglige as well as dress caps are still elevated in front, but lace trimmings take the place of tulle.

A becoming mode of ornamenting caps is to place a small quantity of plain lace, rather on one side of the front part of the cap, and underneath, a gathered edging.

Embroidered muslin barbes take the place of brides. The Indian-grass hats lately introduced, have, when lightly and tastefully trimmed, a pretty appearance, for the morning promenade especially.

MATERIALS & COLORS.- The materials which are in most requisition, are not to be very plainly defined, the varieties being mostly of a similar nature to those which we last month designated, but being modified in such slight particulars as scarcely to come within the scope of a written description.

Printed muslins are seen in great profusion, colors are lavishly blended and frequently violently contrasted. Blue, green, lilac and violet are seen together separate and in shades of the most delicately blent hues. In the selection, attention may be most particularly directed to the complexion and height, which may materially influence the choice of a pattern, some being, as they were last year, so enormously large as almost to obscure a petite figure.

For capotes, Scotch gros de Naples is as much as ever worn with ribbons to match. We see together green and white, rose and white, lilac and white, as well as many of a deeper hue; yellow and brown, blue and scabiouse, green and scarlet.

Small patterns seem on the whole, though there are so great a variety of every size and style, to have the preference. Some of the stripes are very large and in numerous instances on a white ground with small sprigs between.

Violent contrasts in color may be now frequently observed among many ladies with undisputable pretensions to taste; rose and blue and other combinations of a similar character are worn together. Nevertheless, the exquisite blending of various shades now accomplished in some of our summer materials, must be acknowledged as eminently beautiful.

A new Parisian fabric very suitable for summer dress, is called the Savoy gauze, it is remarkable for lightness and pliability, and is not deficient in firmness of texture. The Tripolin is something of this texture, but of different materials.

The Lacordaire green is a much admired tint in the Parisian circles.

VARIETIES.-Pocket handkerchiefs a riviere are now much in vogue, they are without hem, and finished off round the edge by open work lace, of the depth of about an inch and a half with a scolloped edging. Valencienne is sometimes gathered round of considerable thickness and of the richest kind.

For negliges, open riviere with a double row of fluted valencienne, are frequently ranged round a cambric collar.

The pelerines and the fronts of cambric peignoirs are frequently surrounded with small similarly scol loped trimmings.

Elegant manchettes of batiste or embroidered muslin are worn with even a neglige dress.

Gimp, especially with Scotch silks is very much used, some of the varieties are particularly becoming, especially when tastefully disposed on a commanding figure.

Ribbons for wearing round the neck are worn in every conceivable variety of pattern and style, worked, streaked, fringed, and double or single to suit the taste. The Barbary or Egyptian shawls of a large but soft texture; a kind of cachemere, will doubtless supplant the unwieldy and generally unbecoming tartan shawls. For the Opera, Berthe Ferronière or Normandin's new head-dress la victime, are much worn.

Collars partake very largely of the general latitude in dress: they have no prescribed forms, nor order of trimming, taste is the only guide.

The children of from two to eight years old, little straw capotes, the front nearly even with the crown, are much employed; a rose colored or blue crossed barred ribbon, lined with the same, a ruche round the brim generally ornament them.

Black mittens, which it is an amusement to embroider, surrounded with a silk fringe and black thread embroidered ones, as well as white or grey silk gloves are worn, however a well made leather glove, is perhaps after all preferable. For the sake of beauty of appearance, Swedish gloves have the preference.

Pelerines in organdi are frequently worn with two capes; in the broad hem is passed a ribbon (in the manner represented in our fourth plate) which gives a very pleasing finish to the formation whether round. square or with lappets is entirely arbitrary, in the latter instance, they are brought beneath the ceinture and match with it.

*Its origin is said by the Follet" to be derived from the attention excited by the ecclesiastical anathemas of the celebrated abbé Lacordaire, against "the pomps and vanities." The vert Lacordaire might be seen to grace the seats under his very pulpit!

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
PLATE I.

FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.-Gros de Naples dress corsage rather high, fitting close to the shape and ga thered both behind and before, surmounted by an em