« PreviousContinue »
to take their place for the winter, and which some | merly worn ; ribbons are now used which descend to houses are busily occupied in preparing in anticipation. the ceinture. Those of the heavier and richer character which are The porte-bouquets, which have been partially disalready out, complete the contrast; and though this | continued, are being revived in various elegant styles. diversity creates a beautiful coup d'oeuil, it becomes sadly perplexing to give the general tone of the modes
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. from a congregation of such dissimilar elements. Many of the taffetas, batistes, batistes de laine, or
Our illustrations of fashionable costume will this gandis, &c. which were worn during the summer as well as the same colours, now appear, rose, green, ma
month be found various and striking, though what rone, and the same tint of abalia.
may appear to advantage in pictorial design, many
would consider bizarre and anomalous in a written Neutral colours, as undressed fabrics, a yellowish
notice possessing completeness, and might reasonably grey, and the colour called “ London made," may now be frequently remarked.
enquire, “what is the prevailing style ?” To this let The patterns of the India muslin are very varied in
us suggest that, as even in the height of summer there
was great contrariety of form and design, the old and form, and strongly contrasted in colour; with the deep
modern style being blended in so remarkable a manner, est coloured patterns it is usual to observe underneath,
in the present period there must be still greater discrethe cross bars which have been all along worn in batistes
pancy, from the causes before-mentioned, -the junction, and Scotch gros.
or rather the very imperfect separation of the Summer In silks and satins, black prevails very much, and is
and Autumn fashions. frequently mixed with green, white, or red. VARIeries.--Bijouterie.-With the introduction of
PLATE 1. satins, velvets, and other similar rich and heavy fabrics,
FIGURE 1.- MORNING Dress.-Peignoir of Jaconet jewellery also makes its appearance ; it has, however,
muslin, with a double edging of the same from the more than kept pace with the last months' changes,
waist downwards; the pelerine, similarly edged, the which have been of a very equivocal character. We
ends hanging below the ceinture and rounded ; embroinow see mosaic work set in gold, adorning the ears, the
dered muslin collar, square cut, edged with lace. Cap ceintures, and wrists, of our élégantes; Gothic patterns
of worked tulle, with ribbon ornaments. are general. With light dresses, as muslin organdi,
Figure 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Poult de soie dress, &c. two or three rows of small gold chain are worn on
corsage low and close fitting, the upper part draped ; the wrists, sometimes a filligree flat chain.
sleeves full and circular; an outside lapel divides at the Coral is becoming again fashionable, and will now
front part of the shoulder, forming pieces squared at. be worn as generally as before.
the corners, and proceeding half-way down to the A small velvet band is frequently fixed round the elbow. A speckled muslin chemisette, is placed high neck by a pin, similar to gentlemen's, with some device
on the throat, above which is an étole, fixed by a gold as a fly, a bird, &c.; from it is suspended a heart, cross,
clasp. Hat of poult de soie gathered at the brim, ornaor other ornament. In the morning it is black, and
mented with roses, hangs loosely round the neck : in the evening costume,
FIGURE 3.-WALKING DRE8s.—Cachmere foulard other colours are chosen, as blue, green, violet.
dress, made quite plainly; sleeves hanging long below Hearts are attached to rings, bracelets, aurioles, &c.,
the wrists; the ends of the pelerine, which is of silk and are cut out of precious stones, coral, &c. for the
net work, and edged with blond, are crossed beneath ears.
the ceinture, which is fixed by an enamel clasp, set in We see occasianally satin shawls, with a deep lace gold. Hat of small oval shape, with a slight flower edging, especially with muslin organdi or other light
sprig in the crown. dresses.
First Hat Satin drawn hat rounded at the corners, The étole is generally of wide ribbon, and where it
the curtain merging in the back part of the hat, ornacrosses on the neck, is fixed by a gold clasp, a pin, &c.
mented with ribbon bows and nænds. Pelerines are generally of considerable dimensions,
Second HAT.-Plain silk hat, with very low crown, long over the arm, sometimes rounded before, and some underneath which only are a couple of ribbon hows; times pointed, but not entirely covering the neck. the lower part of the brim falls considerably back from Velvet flowers for hats were observed in a house of
the upper. great repute, they have with some hats an extremely
THIRD HAT.-Gros de Naples hat, coming down becoming effect.
lower on the face than the first, but in other respects Plaid shawls have not yet run out their race; we very similar ; a sprig of flowers accompany the ribbon still encounter them at every corner ; but the black ornaments on this hat. satin mantelets, the splendid satin cloaks and shawls,
FOURTH HAT.-Poult de soie hat, drawn on the and beautifully worked shawls of cachmere, are becom
crown as well as the front, which is moderately elevated, ing general with ladies who are adopting the autumn or
the crown is long, and slightly elevated, ornamented the more advanced costumes.
with a few light sprigs of flowers. Cachmere scarfs now take the place of gauze at our FIRST CAP.-Muslin cap, ornamented with ribbon public assemblies; they are usually of three colours,
bows, and double net border. nearly equally divided; the middle should not contrast
SECOND CAP.-Tulle cap, ornamented with satin unbecomingly with the complexion. Small patterns pre
ribbons, with rich edging, which tie under the chin, dominate ; black enters largely into the assortment of
| and a vandyke border all round. colours. Instead of the fringed étoles as they were for
high mounting round the neck, corsage crossed in 1
PLATE IV. front and forming a double pelerine round the shoulders, Figure 1.-Evening Dress.—Poult de soie redin. where it is squared and cut off very acutely on each gote, the corsage fitting closely, pelerine vandyked all side the bust; the whole is bordered with a satin band round, edged with satin piping, with a tassel at each and a narrow lace edging, and the same down the front, point, lozenge-shaped ornaments of a precisely similar which is united by a naud near the termination ; it is style, extend down the dress from the ceinture to the here turned back, forming a very elegant figure in front, hem, graduating regularly the whole length. The cap which gives great effect to the dress. Rice straw hat, is of blond, ornamented with delicate flowers. A back ornamented with feathers.
view of this cap is given above. FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Figured batiste de FIGURE 2.-Ball Dress.-Muslin dress, embroilaine dress, high mounting corsage, the middle of the dered in silk, the corsage plain up to the bust, where front of the bust plain, with two gathers on each, the it is draped, round the top is a very narrow lace edging, figure enveloped in one of the ample cachmere worked short sleeves, terminated by a narrow double ruche, a shawls lately introduced. Gros de Naples hat orna similar one in four rows gives a finish to the bottom of mented with ribbons.
the skirt. From the ceinture, which is of satin ribbon, FIGURE 3.-CARRIAGE Dress.-Florence gros dress, depend two very long ends. The hair is ornamented the corsage close fitting and pointed, half high mount. with satin ribbons. ing with narrow edging, double pelerine of the same, FIGURE 3.-Walking Dress.-Foulard cachmere with silk ruche for the border, crossed in front of the dress, madevery tight as to the corsage and full in the bust. Hat of poult de soie, small sprig of flowers in skirt, which is ornamented with satin ribbon near the the crown, similar one inside, forming a garland.
termination ; a pelerine of muslin, with satin ribbon TURBAN.- A scarf turban, very much interwoven in ornaments, arranged down the front edge and at the the folds, the end which hangs half-way down the face sides, completes the toilet. Tuscan hat, of high oval is fringed.
shape, ornamented with a feather. The back shown CAP.-Worked muslin cap, the border graduating over this figure. down each side, ornamented with ribbon bows and have First HaT.-Poult de soie hat, gathered on the out. ing long ends.
side of the brim, and in narrow folds round the crown, PLATE III.
the edge of which is surrounded by a band which reFIGURE 1.-WALKING Dress.-Ducape redingote, tains the gathers projecting beyond; a large nænd and the corsage accurately fitting, a rounded cape, is em Power constitute the ornaments. broidered all round in scollops, and continued to the | Second Hati-Ribbon hat, capote shape, horse shoe ceinture, from which a rich embroidery, in the same crown, a næud underneath the crown, simply ornastyle, but more elaborate, extends down the whole mented. front, enlarging to the termination; the dress is closed CentRE CAPOTE.-Poult de soie straw capote, the by worked silk buttons. Gros de Naples bat, orna. crown surrounded by three rows of single ruche ; a mented with flowers.
Targe bow ornaments the top from which the tie deFigure 2.-Walking Dress.-Satin cloak, gathered scends. rather close to the bust, and gradually increasing in COIFFURES.-First and second ornamental coiffures, volume, down to the termination ; the cape, which is constructed of satin ribbon, plain and embroidered, gathered in at the shoulders, falls about as low as the formed into bows and cord, with the addition of flowers elbow, this, as well as the front, has a ruche edging, and an aureole. which also terminates the skirt, and ornaments it about three inches higher up; the sleeves are made wider towards the wrist, a broad velvet band terminates
MODE DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES. them, and a velvet collar, cut sharp in front, and slightly sloping behind, completes this costume. The Modes.--Dans ce moment, comme chaque année, hat is in gros de Tours, small upright shape, orna les femmes les plus riches portent des robes d'indienne mented with a marabout.
en toilette du matin; c'est une transaction entre le jaFIGURE 3.-Carriage Dress,-Muslin dress, the conas et la douillette, Je serais bien embarrasseé de corsage ascending to the throat, fitting closely, with vousindiquer les dessins qui m'ont paru les plus jolis, car alternate bands of embroidery and gathered lace, let à bien prendre, les fabricans se sont attachés cette fois in cæur in front, and at the back in the same manner, à réunir les couleurs les plus bizarres encore. Néanbut with a slanting instead of a waving edge; the moins, sous cet imbroglio de palmes jetées les unes sur front ornamented, en tablier, a precisely similar style, les autres, on aperçoit des carreaux comme sur les mous. narrowing at the top. A like style of ornament it selines de la saison passée. Les plus belles indiennes will be observed extends considerably beyond the wrist.
sont croisées ou imitent une étoffe de laine, India straw hat ornamented with a heron egret.
Pour robe d'automne, une jolie étoffe en lévantine Hat & Back View.-Tuscan straw hat, oval up- rayée de couleur : le gros vert et le bleu Haiti paraissent right shape, the sides coming very low down upon the devoir être encore en faveur cet hiver, ainsi que le marface, ornamented with three bows.
ron foncé ; une lévantine de cette nuance. rayée de vert Cap & BACK View.-Muslin cap, ornamented with émeraude, est d'une effet charmant. satin ribbon edged with lace, crossing twice on the Rien de nouveau quant à la forme des robes négligées: crown. A plain ribbon is passed once round for a tie. toujours d'immenses pélerines descendant très bas sur Double border of lace separated in front, somewhat in les hanches, formant le cæur par devant, s'arrétant dans the Queen of Scots style, a næud at the summit of the dans la ceinture et laissant voir la taille par derrière. crown,
Maintenant que le châle n'est pas encore une nécessité,