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or to Cochin-China, wash the Hottentot, convert the from Long-champs which abounds with a water-plant Hindoo : at home you cannot escape the stigma that called pondweed. Its shining leaves, which are as large pursues you. You may have honesty, genius, industry as those of the laurel or orange tree, but thicker and - no matter : you are 'a detrimental' for all that. more fleshy, are spread on the surface of the water ;
Last summer I saw Scribe's amusing scenes “ Avant, aud beneath one of these Reaumur discovered the cell Pendant et Après” at the Théâtre de Madame. In the of a caterpillar, which is called the pondweed tent “ Avant,” when the Duchess of the old regime, after maker; and afterwards minutely watched its movehestowing on her eldest son unearned military rank, ments. Having fastened a patch of leaf, of the size and the richest parti in all France, was quietly dooming and shape suited to his purpose, to another leaf, or the her youngest-born to live poor, unknown, and Cheva underside of its own, so as to form a hollow cell, and lier of Malta, a fine little fellow, who was sitting in the secured the leaf by threads of white silk; it weaves a front row before me, looked up at his father, and cried, cocoon in the cavity, which is somewhat thin, but of “ Mais nous avons changé tout cela, n'est ce pas, mon very close tissue, and there shuts itself up only to papa”
emerge as a perfect insect. This cocoon of leaves, Much of it is changed; but to change it all, we must lined with silk, is constructed underneath the water; wait for a stranger revolution than that which has re thus showing that the caterpillar has a particular art, generated France.
P. C. by which it repels the water from between the leaves.
I may mention, too, that the caterpillar of the emperormoth feeds on fruit-trees and on the willow, and spins
a cocoon, in the form of a Florence flask, of strong TO THE WHITE JASMINE.
silk, so thickly woven, that it appears almost like daBY BERNARD BARTON.
mask or leather. It differs from most other cocoons, in
not being closed at the upper or smaller end, which terJasmine! thy fair and star-like flower with honours should be
minates in a narrow circular opening, formed by the crown'd:
converging of little bundles of silk, gummed together, In day's rude din and sunny hour, it sheds faint sweetness
and almost as elastic as whalebone. As all these ends round; But still, at eve, its rich perfume with fragrance fills the air,
are in needle-shaped points, the entrance of depredators As if to cheer the hours of gloom, and soothe the brow of care.
is guarded against, on the principle which prevents the
escape of a mouse from a wire-trap. Not contented, Oh! thus, in Fortune's sunny ray, the light of Love seems however, with this protection, the insect constructs anpale,
other, within the external aperture, in the form of a Till dark clouds o'er the glare of day have cast their shadowy veil;
canopy or dome, so as effectually to defend the chrysaThen, like thy odours, it bursts forth, a guide to Joy's glad lis. But though the cocoon is thus, in some measure, goal,
impenetrable from without, it is readily opened from Blest beacon of surpassing worth, and pole-star of the sou!! within ; and when the moth issues from it case, it
easily passes through, without either the acid or eye. files ascribed to the silk-worm. The elastic silk gives
way on being pushed from within ; and when the insect THE FIRST WEAVERS.
is fairly out, it shuts of its own accord, like a door
with spring hinges. It is probable that weaving at first consisted merely | A curious fact was mentioned to me, some days ago, in intermixing substances which had undergone little by a gentleman who has resided many years in the or no previous preparation ; while, in later times, the island of Antigua. He says he has often observed a material to be woven was spun. The first invented large spider, which generally lives in houses, and never cloth was, perhaps, composed of rushes, straws, or spins a net, but weaves a silken bag, about as large as shreds of the bark and fibrous parts of trees or plants, a sixpence, which is always carried wherever it goes, ubich needed no such process. When substances were and in which its eggs are deposited. On this, too, it found that might be so united by twisting as to form seems to sit as a hen does ; and when the eggs are continuous and unbroken threads, whose strength al hatched, the young spiders make their way through lowed of their displacing ruder materials, great ad the woven substance, which is remarkably strong, and vancement was made in the art. It is remarkable, too, is then abandoned by them and the parent insect. The that improvements in the loom are of recent date ; and nests of the larger hunting spiders are of a very close that even now the artisan often prefers it in its original satin-like texture. Some have been examined which simplicity. But I have seen at Manchester and Black, were about two inches high, and had two parallel chamburn, hundreds of looms worked by steam ; and in bers placed perpendicularly, in which position the inLeeds I had the pleasnre of inspecting an extensive habitant reposed there through the day, going abroad manufactory where the wool goes in just as it comes to prey, it is imagined, during the night. But the from the back of the sheep, and from whence it is sent most remarkable circumstance was, that the openings, out the best cloth that can be made.
two above and two below, were so elastic as to shut alTravellers assert that weaving, in some form or other, most close. In Evelyn's Travels in Italy, we find the has been pursued in almost every country where the in: following account of these little creatures :habitants are led by the nature of the climate to seek "Of all sorts of insects, none have afforded me more protection from its inclemency. Its origin is, there divertisement than the yepatores, which are a sort of fore, involved in deep obscurity ; but, doubtless, it was lupi, that have their dens in rugged walls and crevices practised by inferior creatures long before it was dis, of houses ; a small brown and delicately spotted kind covered by man. For instance, there is a marsh not far of spiders, whose hinder legs are longer than the rest.
Such I did frequently observe at Rome, which, espying moss around the brim. In some specimens, again, the
nest so capacious as entirely to conceal one of them. One of these small hunters, with a back striped with In the following year they renewed their labours; but black and white, like a zebra, is very common in the younger, which had now acquired its full plumage, Britain. The abode of the labyrinthic spider is, how was driven off by the other from the nest first begun. ever, a contrast to the little elastic satin nest of the It, however, commenced one for itself in the opposite hunter; and is often seen spread out, like a broad corner of the cage; but the elder continuing his persesheet, in hedges, furze, and other low bushes, and some cution, the birds were separated. They went on worktimes on the ground. The middle of this sheet, which ing at their several buildings; but what was built one is of a close texture, is swung, like a sailor's hammock, | day was generally destroyed the next. It is said that by silken ropes extended all around to the higher one of them, having by chance obtained a bit of sewing branches ; but the whole curves upwards and back silk, wove it among the wires; which being observed, wards, sloping down to a long funnel-shaped gallery, more was given him, when the bird interlaced the about a quarter of an inch in diameter. This is much whole, but very confusedly, so as to hinder the greater more closely woven than the sheet part of the web, and part of one side of the cage from being seen through. sometimes descends into a hole in the ground, though Weaving is, indeed, a common process among foreign oftener into a group of crowded twigs, or a tuft of grass. | birds. One weaves a hemispherical structure of dry Here the spider dwells secure, frequently resting with grass, the blades of which it winds round the adjacent her legs extended from the entrance of the gallery, branches of a tree ; another constructs a neat conical ready to spring out on whatever insect may fall into her hanging nest, which outwardly is formed of various sheet-net.
light materials, bits of rotten wood, libres of dry stalks In the nest of the hedge-sparrow, which is formed of weeds, pieces of paper, commonly newspapers-so of green moss, rather loosely, on a foundation of a few that some call it the “ politician"--all interwoven with dry twigs, there is a circular piece of hair-cloth, cu. the silk of caterpillars ; and, Vailant has given us a riously wrought, which in some cases is of considerable description of a nest which is very beautiful. “In one thickness, though it is often so thin as not to cover the of our journeys,” he says, “ through a wood of mimosas, moss; but the hairs are always collected and inter in the country of the Caffres, my good Klaas discovered woven into the structure singly, and, moreover, bent and brought me this nest, having seen and particularly carefully, so as to lie smooth in the circular cup of the observed a male and female tehitree occupied in connest. Not a single end is left projecting ; but all are structing it. It is remarkable for its peculiar form, pushed in among the moss in the exterior. Other birds bearing a strong resemblance to a small horn suspended are still more skilful in weaving : the pied wagtail with the point downwards, between two branches. Its forms a texture of hair more than half an inch thick, greatest diameter was two inches and a half, and gra. and the interior presents a smooth, uniform surface ; dually diminishing towards the base. It would be diffi. but, perhaps, the preference must be given to the chaf- cult to explain the principle upon which such a nest had finch. Mr. Rennie says, “We have one chaffinch's nest, been built, particularly as three fourths of it appeared which appears more beautiful than usual, from being to be entirely useless and idly made; for the part lined with a smooth, thick texture of cow's hair, all of which was to contain the eggs, and which was alone ins an orange-brown colour, which forms a fine contrast to dispensible, was not more than three inches from the the white wool, intermixed with grey lichens and green surface. All the rest of this edifice, which was a tissue
- - -
closely and laboriously woven of slender threads, taken from the bark of certain shrubs, seemed to be totally useless.”_But in this remark he appears to have been too precipitate.
To say that any thing is useless in the creation of God, is not warranted by the knowledge of the traveller, or of any since his time. But an extract from Wilson will very appropriately close our recapitulation, “Almost the whole genus of orioles,' says he, “belong to America, and, with a few exceptions, build pensile nests. Few of them, however, equal the Baltimore in the construction of these receptacles for their young, and in giving them, in such a superior degree, convenience, warmth, and security. For these purposes, he generally fixes on the high bending extremities of the branches, fastening strong strings of hemp or flax round two forked twigs, corresponding to the intended width of the nest; with the same materials, mixed with quantities of loose tow, he interweaves or fabricates a strong, firm kind of cloth, not unlike the substance of a hat in its raw state, forming it into a pouch of six or seven inches in depth, lining it substantially with various soft substances, well interwoven with the outward netting ; and, lastly, finishes with a layer of horse-hair, the whole being shaded from the sun and rain by a natural penthouse, or canopy of leaves. So solicitous is the Baltimore to procure proper materials for his nest, that, in the season of building, the women in the country are under the necessity of narrowly watching their thread that may chance to be bleaching; and the farmer, to secure his young grafts; as the Baltimore, finding the former, and the strings that tie the latter, so well adapted for his purpose, frequently carries off both; or, should the one be too heavy, and the other too firmly tied, he will tug at them a considerable time before he gives up the attempt. Skeins of silk and hanks of thread have been often found, after the leaves were fallen, round the Baltimor's nest, but so woven up and entangled, as to be entirely irreclaimable. Before the introduction of Europeans, no such material could have been obtained here; but with the sagacity of a good architect, he has improved this circumstance to his advantage ; and the strongest and best materials are uniformly found in those parts by which the whole is supported."- Abridged from the Juvenile Forgetme-not.
Morn found us on the deep lone wave,
The gale had ceas'd to blow ;
Asleep upon the main ;
Never to sleep again.
We withering on the wave,
Our passage to the grave.
On the fourth day we spied
A barque was by our side.
And gazed on living men ;
She never wept till then.
How calm, low sweet her tone
A glance, a sigh, a groan.
And life anew had charms ;
Inpture io my arms.
But fale bad seal'd her doom ;
In the cold the silent tomb.
To bid the tear-drop start;
W, L. R.
LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.
We fled a far but happier clime,
From kindred's pow'r and foeman's hate ; Our criine was love-if love be crime,
She was my hope, my fate :
Was bound for home again ;
We battled with the main.
Roar'd on ; tbe sails were rent,
Our main and mizen went.
"She settles to the head-the boat!' We stagger'd to the side--but found
It was far afloat.
Drifting upon ihe sea,
Fading into eternity.
“Oh there is nothing new! I wish there was some change" is a common cry, notwithstanding the indefatigable exertions of the numerous ministers, whose invention is continually taxed for the gratification of the lovers of novelty. Were the exertions more generally known, and the pains that are taken by the nuinerous artistes connected with the queen of fashion, a more compassionate view would be taken, even though these panting expectations were not fully realized.
At a period like the present, between two seasons, when the genius of novelty has been labouring with the most zealous energy, for the production of modes that should gain general approval, it can hardly be ex: pected that the same success should crown every effort, after the inventive powers have been so severely tried for “the season;" but, sympathy apart, it is not just to say that there is not“.omething new” continually put before the expectant public, but one of the essentials of novelty is continually overlooked by those, even, whose business it is to turn over a hint to the greatest advantage. It is not necessary that there should be a monthly revolution in dress to afford a constant variety
-the disposal of one part of the dress relatively to another-of a neud, of a boa, of a flower, a feather, the style of embroidering, the absence of all ornament, a plait, a fold, or a niche-in fact, a thousand little niceties, of which a correct eye and judgment, guided by taste, oply, can take advantage; each of these minute details, carefully managed, may give a totally different character to a dress. Let any one who can appreciate these remarks, consult some of our past
volumes, and their correctness will be immediately perceived ; let the slightest durations be noticed, and it will be found that more attention is due, to minor details, than is generally imagined. The following observations of our contemporary oracle, the “ Petit Courier,” aptly take their place here, and will serve as a practical commentary on the foregoing remarks; succeeding to which, are our usual sketches of costume and extracts from the Parisian journals.
« It would be a difficult task to announce, now, an entirely new mode, such an one as might have appeared in the midst of the brilliant winter assemblies, and made many a coquettish heart beat, either by the new grace, which was the attribute of the fashion itself, or by the antiquity of the style which had been just introduced. One could not venture out, in open day, with a dress which owes its chief attraction to the brilliancy of the prismatic reflections, or of the gilt hangings of an elegant ball room. A summer season will not permit those bold innovations which the interi. eating luxury and brilliancy of a ball room may well permit; hut now, though a simplicity most unfavorable to invention, pervades our fashionable costume, there is yet a ceaseless demand for something new, unknown, or extraordinary We can make no other reply to this summons, than by offering models of toilettes such as we see them, such as good taste authorises ; but still simple, and allowing at most, the accessary of a ribbon or a flower. To present more, would be to depart from the truth."
We must inform our readers that in the prettiest toilettes, white is the leading color, whether in the dress, redingote, or the peignoir ; batiste and organdi have the prettiest effect, either at the promenade, the theatre, or the ball room.
Redingotes in muslin, have frequently lace gathered round them; others have only a large hem, within which is passed a rose, lilac, or straw-colored ribbon.
With these redingotes they wear a large ribbon ceinture, tied before, like the one in the hem,
" We remarked a toilette which we thought very generally becoming-a white organdi redingote, over a white gros de Naples, a broad white band tied round the waist ; collar trimmed with point or Mechlin lace, large sleeves, held at the wrist by a gold bracelet, clasped by a cameo. The hat of Italian rice-straw, or. pamented with two white feathers. Scarf of blue or very pale lilac gauze."
Dresses -A dress in the Greek style, with some singular characteristics, attracted a good deal of attention, lately, at a most brilliant assembly. The folds of the corsage were retained on the shoulders by a gold clasp, representing a coiled serpent. The skirt was of immense width, forming full and irregular drapery to the ground. A bandeau and bracelets in a similar style of bijouterie completed this.
A dress of embroidesed Indian muslin, opened on an ander dress of white muslin, trimmed all round the bottom with a citron-colored satin ribbon ; the upper dress was profusely ornamented with detached baoquets, and at the termination of the skirt, a pretty deep lace border was fixed. The ceinture of citron-colored taffeta, was tied in the form of a rosette in front.
Many are worn of undressed material, with embroidering in imitation of fruit or flowers,
With an extremely fine batiste dress was worn, as a
scarf, a very wide straw-coloured ribbon, with cherry. colored embroidery; after passing under the ceinture, it descended almost to the hem. A species of epaulette formed of ribbons, were placed on each shoulder, the ends hung down on each side of the neck.
A muslin dress, black ground, with large colored roses for the pattern; and for the ceinture, a rosecolored satin ribbon of considerable width, with black cross-bars. The dress was made à la Grecque.
An organdi redingote was worn over a dress of white poult de soi; the corsage was folded in very small plaits, with no addition but a simple square collar; the out muslin sleeves coming fulled to the wrist, exbibited the underneath ones of poult de soie, with a very pretty effect.
An Indian muslin dress was embroidered within about a foot of the hem, with a garland of geranium sprigs.
For negligés, muslin peignoirs lined with taffeta similarly colored, and closed with ribbon næuds. Some of the ribbons are in muslin lined similarly to the dress and edged with narrow lace. Palm branches are frequently embroidered very deeply on the extremities of scarfs, of which cotton tulle is not an unusual fabric.
Colored muslin and printed jaconets are as much worn as ever. Patterns are preferred small, compared with last year's wear.
ENSEMBLE DE Toilette.--A muslin dress em, broidered with silk rose buds, both white; rose branches also in the hair,
A very elegant toilette was composed of Indian muslin, open at the side, down which a most tasteful embroidery in gold and green, produced a most charm. ing effect ; ribbon næuds of white taffeta, fringed with green, united this, forming a row of fins down the whole skirt. A garland of ivy surrounded the head.
The pelerine mantillas, which, from their being readily disengaged, &c., are extremely commodious, are much admired. For undress, they are commonly of batiste, with a bordering of very fine flat plaits. Full dress, fine Indian muslin is used, with embroidered border, and edging of English and Brussels lace.
Hats, Caps.-Hats are worn in all colors; but lilac, rose, straw, pink and azure blue have, perhaps, the preference. Gros de Naples, Cordelina, Crape, &c. are materials much employed.
Hats with low fronts, are less adopted than they were, and the brims may now be seen elevated to a much greater extent than before.
A small round shaped hat of a similar color, in ricestraw was ornamented with three feathers very much inclined on one side. A fan of the style of the eighteenth century, similar in this respect to the above toilette, hung from the wrist when not in use.
A rice-straw hat, ornamented with a small oak sprig with acorns and green ribbons. A printed muslin dress, pattern of large green spri g embroidered tulle pelerine, the ends passing uoder the ceinture and descending to the knees.
For ornaments, the simplest and lightest flowers may be seen ; to adorn the hats of ladies of taste, wild flowers are very conspicuous.
A garland of peach bloseom and myoporum, mixed, ornamented a rice-straw bat; beneath the brim was a bunch of ranunculuses, yellow, with cherry-colored streaks.
The Convolvulus makes a beautiful garland.
form a bow in the middle of the top, part the ribbon VARIETIES.--Pelerines continue rounded at the twists on each side until it terminates in a tie. shoulders. The bouffans sleeves are of more moderate Second CAP.-Muslin cap, with work border, closing dimensions than formerly.
a little over the face, a ribbon bow at the top, which Indian cashmere tabliers embroidered in worsted, winds round the crown and terminates in a noud at the embroidered in the same color, are worn by some of back, our elegantes and are extremely costly.
PLATE II, Her Royal Highness the Princess Augusta Sophia Figure 1.-WALKING DRESS.-Batiste redingote; has been graciously pleased to dominate and appoint square cut collar, pelereine with double cape, with Messrs. J. & J. Holmes, of 171, and 173, Regent narrow double ruche edging ; cut on the bust enceur Street, to be Shawl Manufacturers 10 Her Royal High. slightly rounded behind ; sleeves full and plain, narrow ness.
lace edging on the wristband. The ruche is continued The process of cleaning blonds and laces, a subject of from the ceinture downwards. Small shaped gros de much interest to ladies, seems to have been hitherto little Naples hat, ornamented with feathers. understood; lately, however, the art has been carried to FIGURE 2.-WALKING DRESS.-Muslin dress; high a surprising degree of perfection ; and a Mr. Raby, of ! mounting corsage gathered in upright folds on the France, who has lately come to settle among us, has bust, with three or four gathers on the back, towards succeeded in restoring soiled and faded laces to their the ceinture; the pelereine, with a neud at the neck, original lustre, and in improving the original color, gradually sloped to the shoulder, where it is rounded where the manufacturer has been unsuccessful.vid off; the slope takes in a contrary direction at the back. Advertisement.
A scolloped edging is fixed round this, graduating in size. The skirt, which is made full, is ornamented
with a flounce, of a similar pattern, but about treble DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
the width. The sleeve is gathered at the wrist. The rice
straw hat is ornamented with blades of corn under the PLATE 1.
brim, and on the crown, ostrich feathers. FIGURE 1.-WALKING DRESS.- Indian muslin dress ;
Figure 3.-BALL DRESS,-Tulle dress ; corsage corsage half-high nounting, edged with narrow lace,
half high mounting, and close fitting, the sleeves ornaslightly draped, with a fold in the middle of the breast mented near the wrist with a wide bow fixed in the diminishing to the ceinture, the middle confined by a
centre with piping, the wristband tight-fitting. The brooch. The sleeve, which is round and full, is em
pelereine, which is shaped round, round the shoulders braced by a band, about a couple of inches above the and back, like the preceding one, has long ends hangwrist, and diminishes here to a very small size. The ing more than mid-way down the skirt; the outside skirt is handsomely embroidered down the front and
edges ornamented with block blond, double round the round the hem. A garland of roses is placed inside the
upper part and deep at the ends; the inside is edged hat of poult de soie, and a slender sprig of buds in the with satin. Gros de Naples hat, the front somecrown. A kind of mantilla-scarf is also worn, gathered
what deep, edged with lace, crown low and ornamented in at the middle and near the ends, which are vandyked with satin ribbons, &c. and have tassels at the points
FIRST CAPOTE.–Tuscan straw capote, the brim very Figure 2.-Evening DRESS.-Organdi dress; close
wide and deep, crown very low ; a garland of leaves fitting corsage edged with lace, mantilla, draped round
surround it. the bust, falling broad over the sleeve and with a double
First Ham.-Rice straw hat, round shape turned frilled edging. Embroidered étole tied round the neck up round the front and back, ornamented inside with by a ribbon næud, the ends pointed, terminating in
two bouquets inside the brim, and the feathers between tassel. Hair ornamented with a ribbon, garland and
the brim and the crown—the latter considerably eleneud.
vated. Figure 3.-CARRIAGE DRESS.-Tulle redingote ;
SECOND CAPOTE.--Drawn silk capote, rounded at high mounting corsage open down the front, which is
the corners, the back low, the crown not much elevated, edged with lace down the length of the dress, increasing
ornamented with ribbon neuds. towards the termination ; similarly arranged are also
THIRD CAPOTE.-Gros de Tours capote, the side of square pieces, added, down the front. A satin ribbon
the brim sloped rather inwards, the crown high, or. scarf is fixed to the shoulders, by ribbon neuds, pointed
namented with satin ribbon bows, and very small at the back, and being capable of a tie in front, yet
flowers. hangs down the skirt to a considerable distance, in two
Fourth CAPOTE.-Drawn capote ; wide open shape, ends. Gros de Naples hat, ornamented with an auréole
and edged with narrow lace; curtain put on full, beand ribbons, edged with lace.
hind, crown conically shaped, ornamented with a ribbon First HAT, AND BACK view.-Gros de Naples hat, bow, and gimps placed round the base. oval shaped front, considerably rounded at the corners,
Fifth HAT.-Rice-straw hat, oval shaped, crown ornamented with a couple of marabouts.
slightly elevated, and ornamented with a large ribbon Second HaT, AND BACK VIEW.-Drawn capote,
neud at the side, and a couple of feathers placed upshape very similar to the above, but the crown rather right, more elevated; the crown ornamented with a half CAP. AND SIDE View.-Muslin cap, blond border garland of bows, extending rather more than half-way
dented, in which is inserted satin ribbon; a large round it.
næud at the summit. First CaP.-Blond cap, broad blond border, set in
PLATE 3. a somewhat circular shape, square cut round the face ;
Figure 1, BACK VIEW. Scoth gros redingote; high