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or to Cochin-China, wash the Hottentot, convert the Hindoo : at home you cannot escape the stigma that pursues you. You may have honesty, genius, industry -no matter : you are 'a detrimental for all that.
Last summer I saw Scribe's amusing scenes Avant, Pendant et Après” at the Théâtre de Madame. In the “ Avant," when the Duchess of the old regime, after hestowing on her eldest son unearned military rank, and the richest parti in all France, was quietly dooming her youngest-born to live poor, unknown, and Chevalier of Malta, a fine little fellow, who was sitting in the front row before me, looked up at his father, and cried, “ Mais nous avons changé tout cela, n'est ce pas, mon
Much of it is changed; but to change it all, we must wait for a stranger revolution than that which has regenerated France.
from Long-champs which abounds with a water-plant called pondweed. Its shining leaves, which are as large as those of the laurel or orange tree, but thicker and more fleshy, are spread on the surface of the water; aud beneath one of these Reaumur discovered the cell of a caterpillar, which is called the pondweed tent maker; and afterwards minutely watched its morements. Having fastened a patch of leaf, of the size and shape suited to liis purpose, to another leaf, or the underside of its own, so as to form a hollow cell, and secured the leaf by threads of white silk; it weaves a cocoon in the cavity, which is somewhat thin, but of very close tissue, and there shuts itself up only to emerge as a perfect insect. This cocoon of leaves, lined with silk, is constructed underneath the water; thus showing that the caterpillar has a particular art, by which it repels the water from between the leaves. I may mention, too, that the caterpillar of the emperormoth feeds on fruit-trees and on the willow, and spins a cocoon, in the form of a Florence flask, of strong silk, so thickly woven, that it appears almost like damask or leather. It differs from most other cocoons, in not being closed at the upper or smaller end, which terminates in a narrow circular opening, formed by the converging of little bundles of silk, gummed together, and almost as elastic as whalebone. As all these ends are in needle-shaped points, the entrance of depredators is guarded against, on the principle which prevents the escape of a mouse from a wire-trap. Not contented, however, with this protection, the insect constructs another, within the external aperture, in the form of a canopy or dome, so as effectually to defend the chrysalis. But though the cocoon is thus, in some measure, impenetrable from without, it is readily opened from within ; and when the moth issues from it case, it easily passes through, without either the acid or eye. files ascribed to the silk-worm. The elastic silk gives way on being pushed from within ; and when the insect is fairly out, it shuts of its own accord, like a door with spring hinges.
A curious fact was mentioned to me, some days ago, by a gentleman who has resided many years in the island of Antigua. He says he has often observed a large spider, which generally lives in houses, and never spins a net, but weaves a silken bag, about as large as a sixpence, which is always carried wherever it goes, and in which its eggs are deposited. On this, too, it seems to sit as a hen does ; and when the eggs are hatched, the young spiders make their way through the woven substance, which is remarkably strong, and is then abandoned by them and the parent insect. The nests of the larger hunting spiders are of a very close satin-like texture. Some have been examined which were about two inches high, and had two parallel chambers placed perpendicularly, in which position the inhabitant reposed there through the day, going abroad to prey, it is imagined, during the night. But the most remarkable circumstance was, that the openings, two above and two below, were so elastic as to shut almost close. In Evelyn's Travels in Italy, we find the following account of these little creatures :
“ Of all sorts of insects, none have afforded me more divertisement than the yepatores, which are a sort of lupi, that have their dens in rugged walls and crevices of houses ; a small brown and delicately spotted kind of spiders, whose hinder legs are longer than the rest.
THE FIRST WEAVERS.
It is probable that weaving at first consisted merely in intermixing substances which had undergone little or no previous preparation ; while, in later times, the material to be woven was spun.
The first invented cloth was, perhaps, composed of rushes, straws, or shreds of the bark and fibrous parts of trees or plants, wbich needed no such process.
When substances were found that might be so united by twisting as to form continuous and unbroken threads, whose strength allowed of their displacing ruder materials, great advancement was made in the art. It is remarkable, too, that improvements in the loom are of recent date; and that even now the artisan often prefers it in its original simplicity. But I have seen at Manchester and Black, burn, hundreds of looms worked by steam ; and in Leeds I had the pleasnre of inspecting an extensive manufactory where the wool goes in just as it comes from the back of the sheep, and from whence it is sent out the best cloth that can be made.
Travellers assert that weaving, in some form or other, has been pursued in almost every country where the in. habitants are led by the nature of the climate to seek protection from its inclemency. Its origin is, therefore, involved in deep obscurity ; but, doubtless, it was practised by inferior creatures long before it was discovered by man. For instance, there is a marsh not far
Such I did frequently observe at Rome, which, espying moss around the brim. In some specimens, again, the a fly at three yards distance, upon the balcony where I hairs are nearly all white, and in others nearly all stood, would not make directly to her, but crawl under black, though seldom in a mass, and almost wholly the rail, till, being arrived at the antipodes it steals up, worked in hair by hair. If a tuft of hair is procured, seldom missing its aim ; but if she chanced to want therefore, from a tree or a gate-post where cattle have any thing of being perfectly opposite, would at first been rubbing themselves, the chafinch seems to pull it peep, immediately slide down again,-till, taking better minutely to pieces before interweaving it, while the notice, it would come the next time exactly upon the wagtail and some other birds merely flatten it to make fly's back : but if this happened not to be within a it lie smooth.”
There is a bird called " the weaver oriole," which is as the very shadow of the gnomen seemed not to be supposed to be a native of Senegal. Two that were inore perceptible, unless the fly moved ; and then would taken to France seemed to be of different ages, the the spider move also in the same proportion, keeping older having a kind of crown, which appeared in sunthat just time with her motion, as if the same soul had light of a glossy golden brown colour; but at the auanimated both these little bodies : and, whether it was tumnal moult this disappeared, leaving the head of a forwards, backwards, or to either side, without at all yellow colour, though its golden brown always returned turning her body, like a well-managed horse : but if in the spring. The principal colour of the body was the capricious fly took wing, and pitched upon another yellowish orange, but the wings and tail had a blackish place, behind our huntress, then would the spider whirl ground. The younger bird had not the golden brown its body so nimbly about as nothing could be imagined on the head till the end of the second year, from which more swift; by which means she always kept the head it was supposed to be a female, as female birds look towards her prey, though, to appearance, as unmoveable young for a longer time than the males. The two as if it had been a nail driven into the wood ; till, by birds were kept in the same cage, and lived at first on that indiscernible progress (being arrived within the the best terms with one another. Having been obsphere of her reach,) she made a fatal leap, swift as served in the spring to interweave chickweed into the lightning, upon the fly, catching him in the pole, where wire of their cage, it was thought they wished to nestle, she never quitted hold till her belly was full, and then and on being supplied with fine rushes, they built a carried the remainder home.”
nest so capacious as entirely to conceal one of them. One of these small hunters, with a back striped with In the following year they renewed their labours; but black and white, like a zebra, is very common in the younger, which had now acquired its full plumage, Britain. The abode of the labyrinthic spider is, how- was driven off by the other from the nest first begun. ever, a contrast to the little elastic satin nest of the It, however, commenced one for itself in the opposite hunter; and is often seen spread out, like a broad corner of the cage; but the elder continuing his persesheet, in hedges, furze, and other low bushes, and some- cution, the birds were separated. They went on worktimes on the ground. The middle of this sheet, which ing at their several buildings; but what was built one is of a close texture, is swung, like a sailor's hammock, day was generally destroyed the next. It is said that by silken ropes extended all around to the higher one of them, having by chance obtained a bit of sewing branches ; but the whole curves upwards and back- silk, wove it among the wires ; which being observed, wards, sloping down to a long funnel-shaped gallery, was given him, when the bird interlaced the about a quarter of an inch in diameter. This is much whole, but very confusedly, so as to hinder the greater more closely woven than the sheet part of the web, and part of one side of the cage from being seen through. sometimes descends into a hole in the ground, though Weaving is, indeed, a common process among foreign oftener into a group of crowded twigs, or a tuft of grass. birds. One weaves a hemispherical structure of dry Here the spider dwells secure, frequently resting with grass, the blades of which it winds round the adjacent her legs extended from the entrance of the gallery, branches of a tree ; another constructs a neat conical ready to spring out on whatever insect may fall into her hanging nest, which outwardly is formed of various sheet-net.
light materials, bits of rotten wood, libres of dry stalks In the nest of the hedge-sparrow, which is formed of weeds, pieces of paper, commonly newspapers-so of green moss, rather loosely, on a foundation of a few that some call it the “ politician"-all interwoven with dry twigs, there is a circular piece of hair-cloth, cu- the silk of caterpillars ; and, Vailant has given us a riously wrought, which in some cases is of considerable description of a nest which is very beautiful. “In one thickness, though it is often so thin as not to cover the of our journeys,” he says, “ through a wood of mimosas, moss; but the hairs are always collected and inter in the country of the Caffres, my good Klaas discovered woven into the structure singly, and, moreover, bent and brought me this nest, having seen and particularly carefully, so as to lie smooth in the circular cup of the observed a male and female tehitree occupied in connest. Not a single end is left projecting ; but all are structing it. It is remarkable for its peculiar form, pushed in among the moss in the exterior. Other birds bearing a strong resemblance to a small horn suspended are still more skilful in weaving : the pied wagtail with the point downwards, between two branches. Its forms a texture of hair more than half an inch thick, greatest diameter was two inches and a half, and graand the interior presents a smooth, uniform surface ; dually diminishing towards the base. It would be diffi. but, perhaps, the preference must be given to the chaf- cult to explain the principle upon which such a nest had finch. Mr. Rennie says, "We have one chaffinch's nest, been built, particularly as three fourths of it appeared which appears more beautiful than usual, from being to be entirely useless and idly made ; for the part lined with a smooth, thick texture of cow's hair, all of which was to contain the eggs, and which was alone ina an orange-brown colour, which forms a fine contrast to dispensible, was not more than three inches from the the white wool, intermixed with grey lichens and green
surface. All the of this edifice, which was a tissue
closely and laboriously woven of slender threads, taken from the bark of certain shrubs, seemed to be totally useless."-But in this remark he appears to have been too precipitate.
To say that any thing is useless in the creation of God, is not warranted by the knowledge of the traveller, or of any since his time. But an extract from Wilson will very appropriately close our recapitulation. “Almost the whole genus of orioles," says he, “belong to America, and, with a few exceptions, build pensile nests. Few of them, however, equal the Baltimore in the construction of these receptacles for their young, and in giving them, in such a superior degree, convenience, warmth, and security. For these purposes, he generally fixes on the high bending extremities of the branches, fastening strong strings of hemp or flax round two forked twigs, corresponding to the intended width of the nest; with the same materials, mixed with quantities of loose tow, he interweaves or fabricates a strong, firm kind of cloth, not unlike the substance of a hat in its raw state, forming it into a pouch of six or seven inches in depth, lining it substantially with various soft substances, well interwoven with the outward netting ; and, lastly, finishes with a layer of horse-hair, the whole being shaded from the sun and rain by a natural penthouse, or canopy of leaves. So solicitous is the Baltimore to procure proper materials for his nest, that, in the season of building, the women in the country are under the necessity of narrowly watching their thread that may chance to be bleaching; and the farmer, to secure his young grafts; as the Baltimore, finding the former, and the strings that tie the latter, so well adapted for his purpose, frequently carries off both ; or, should the one be too heavy, and the other too firmly tied, he will tug at them a considerable time before he gives up the attempt. Skeins of silk and hanks of thread have been often found, after the leaves were fallen, round the Baltimor's nest, but so woven up and entangled, as to be entirely irreclaimable. Before the introduction of Europeans, no such material could have been obtained here; but with the sagacity of a good architect, he has improved this circumstance to his advantage ; and the strongest and best materials are uniformly found in those parts by which the whole is supported."-Abridged from the Juvenile Forgetme-not.
Morn found us on the deep lone wave,
The gale had ceas'd to blow;
Asleep upon the main ;
Never to sleep again.
We withering on the wave.
Our passage to the grave.
On the fourth day we spied
A barque was by our side.
And gazed ou living men ;
She never wept till then.
How calm, liow sweet her tone
A glance, a sigh, a groan.
And life anew had charms;
Inp ture in my arms.
But fale had seal'd her doom ;
In the cold the silent tomb.
To bid the tear-drop start;
W, L. R.
LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.
We fed a far but happier clime,
From kindred's pow'r and foeman's hate ; Our crime was love-if love be crime,
She was my hope, my fate :
Was bound for home again;
We battled with the main.
Roar'd on ; tbe sails were rent,
Our main and mizen went.
She settles to the head- the boat!'
It was far afloat.
Drifting upon ihe sea,
Fading into eternity.
“Oh there is nothing new ! I wish there was some change" is a common cry, notwithstanding the indefatigable exertions of the numerous ministers, whose invention is continually taxed for the gratification of the lovers of novelty. Were the exertions more generally known, and the pains that are taken by the nuinerous artistes connected with the queen of fashion, a more compassionate view would be taken, even though these panting expectations were not fully realized.
At a period like the present, between two seasons, when the genius of novelty has been labouring with the most zealous energy, for the production of modes that should gain general approval, it can hardly be ex pected that the same success should crown every effort, after the inventive powers have been so severely tried for “the season;" but, sympathy apart, it is not just to say that there is not“ omething new” continually put before the expectant public, but one of the essentials of novelty is continually orerlooked by those, even, whose business it is to turn over a hint to the greatest advantage. It is not necessary that there should be a monthly revolution in dress to afford a constant variety -the disposal of one part of the dress relatively to another-of a næud, of a boa, of a flower, a feather, the style of embroidering, the absence of all ornament, a plait, a fold, or a niche-in fact, a thousand little niceties, of which a correct eye and judgment, guided by taste, only, can take advantage; each of these minute details, carefully managed, may give a totally different character to a dress. Let any one who can appreciate these remarks, consult some of our past
worn as ever.
volumes, and their correctness will be immediately scarf, a very wide straw-coloured ribbon, with cherry.
cross-bars. The dress was made à la Grecque.
effect. troduced. One could not venture out, in open day, An Indian muslin dress was embroidered within with a dress which owes its chief attraction to the about a foot of the hem, with a garland of geranium brilliancy of the prismatic reflections, or of the gilt sprigs. hangings of an elegant ball room. A summer season For negligés, muslin peignoirs lined with taffeta will not permit those bold innovations which the interi. similarly colored, and closed with ribbon næuds. Some eating luxury and brilliancy of a ball room may well of the ribbons are in muslin lined similarly to the dress permit; but now, though a simplicity most unfavorable and edged with narrow lace. Palm branches are freto invention, pervades our fashionable costume, there quently embroidered very deeply on the extremities of is yet a ceaseless demand for something new, unknown, scarfs, of which cotton tulle is not an unusual fabric. or extraordinary We can make no other reply to this Colored muslin and printed jaconets are as much summons, than by offering models of toilettes such as we
Patterns are preferred small, compared see them, such as good taste authorises ; but still with last year's wear. simple, and allowing at most, the accessary of a ribbon ENSEMBLE DE Toilette.--A muslin
dress emor a flower. To present more, would be to depart from broidered with silk rose buds, both wliite; rose the truth.
branches also in the hair, We must inform our readers that in the prettiest A very elegant toilette was composed of Indian toilettes, white is the leading color, whether in the muslin, open at the side, down which a most tasteful dress, redingote, or the peignoir; batiste and organdi embroidery in gold and green, produced a most charmhave the prettiest effect, either at the promenade, the ing effect ; ribbon nouds of white taffeta, fringed with theatre, or the ball room.
green, united this, forming a row of fins down the whole Redingotes in muslin, have frequently lace gathered skirt. A garland of ivy surrounded the head. round them; others have only a large hem, within The pelerine mantillas, which, from their being which is passed a rose, lilac, or straw-colored ribbon. readily disengaged, &c., are extremely commodious, are
With these redingotes they wear a large ribbon much admired. For undress, they are commonly of ceinture, tied before, like the one in the hem.
batiste, with a bordering of very fine flat plaits. Full " We remarked a toilette which we thought very dress, fine Indian muslin is used, with embroidered generally becoming-a white organdi redingote, over a border, and edging of English and Brussels lace. white gros de Naples, a broad white band tied round Hars, Caps.-Hats are worn in all colors; but the waist ; collar trimmed with point or Mechlin lace, lilac, rose, straw, pink and azure blue have, perhaps, large sleeves, held at the wrist by a gold bracelet, the preference. Gros de Naples, Cordelina, Crape, &c. clasped by a cameo. The hat of Italian rice-straw, or- are materials much employed. namented with two white feathers. Scarf of blue or Hats with low fronts, are less adopted than they very pale lilac gauze.”
were, and the brims may now be seen elevated to a much Dresses.-A dress in the Greek style, with some greater extent than before. singular characteristics, attracted a good deal of atten- A small round shaped hat of a similar color, in ricetion, lately, at a most brilliant assembly. The folds of straw was ornamented with three feathers very much the corsage were retained on the shoulders by a gold inclined on one side. A fan of the style of the clasp, representing a coiled serpent. The skirt was of eighteenth century, similar in this respect to the above immense width, fortning full and irregular drapery to toilette, bung from the wrist when not in use. the ground. A bandeau and bracelets in a similar A rice-straw hat, ornamented with a small oak sprig style of bijouterie completed this.
with acorns and green ribbons. A printed muslin A dress of embroidesed Indiau muslin, opened on an dress, pattern of large green spri g embroidered tulle under dress of white muslin, trimmed all round the pelerine, the ends passing uoder the ceinture and des. bottom with a citron-colored satin ribbon; the upper cending to the knees. dress was profusely ornamented with detached baoquets, For ornaments, the simplest and lightest flowers may and at the termination of the skirt, a pretty deep lace be seen ; to adorn the hats of ladies of taste, wild border was fixed. The ceinture of citron-colored taffeta, flowers are very conspicuous. was tied in the form of a rosette in front.
A garland of peach blossom and myoporum, mixed, Many are worn of undressed material, with em- ornamented a rice-straw hat; beneath the brim was a broidering in imitation of fruit or flowers.
bunch of ranunculuses, yellow, with cherry-colored With an extremely fine batiste dress was worn, as a streaks.
form a bow in the middle of the top, part the ribbon twists on each side until it terminates in a tie.
Second Cap.--Muslin cap, with work border, closing a little over the face, a ribbon bow at the top, which winds round the crown and terminates in a næud at the
The Convolvulus makes a beautiful garland.
Varieties.--Pelerines continue rounded at the shoulders. The bouffans sleeves are of more moderate dimensions than formerly.
Indian cashmere tabliers embroidered in worsted, embroidered in the same color, are worn by some of our elegantes and are extremely costly.
Her Royal Highness the Princess Augusta Sophia has been graciously pleased to nominate and appoint Messrs. J. & J. Holmes, of 171, and 173, Regent Street, to be Shawl Manufacturers to Her Royal High
The process of cleaning blonds and laces, a subject of much interest to ladies, seems to have been hitherto little understood; lately, however, the art has been carried to a surprising degree of perfection; and a Mr. Rahy, of France, who has lately come to settle among us, has succeeded in restoring soiled and faded laces to their original lustre, and in improving the original color, where the manufacturer has been unsuccessful.mid Advertisement.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.
PLATE 1. Figure 1.-WALKING DRESS.—Indian muslin dress ; corsage half-high nounting, edged with narrow lace, slightly draped, with a fold in the middle of the breast diminishing to the ceinture, the middle confined by a brooch. The sleeve, which is round and full, is embraced by a band, about a couple of inches above the wrist, and diminishes here to a very small size. The skirt is handsomely embroidered down the front and round the hem. A garland of roses is placed inside the hat of poult de soie, and a slender sprig of buds in the crown. A kind of mantilla-scarf is also worn, gathered in at the middle and near the ends, which are vandyked and have tassels at the points.
Figure 2.-Evening Dress.-Organdi dress ; close fitting corsage edged with lace, mantilla, draped round the bust, falling broad over the sleeve and with a double frilled edging. Embroidered étole tied round the neck by a ribbon neud, the ends pointed, terminating in tassel. Hair ornamented with a ribbon, garland and neud.
Figure 3.-CARRIAGE Dress.--Tulle redingote ; high mounting corsage open down the front, which is edged with lace down the length of the dress, increasing towards the termination ; similarly arranged are also square pieces, added, down the front. A satin ribbon scarf is fixed to the shoulders, by ribbon neuds, pointed at the back, and being capable of a tie in front, yet hangs down the skirt to a considerable distance, in two ends. Gros de Naples hat, ornamented with an auréole and ribbons, edged with lace.
First Hat, AND BACK view.-Gros de Naples hat, oval shaped front, considerably rounded at the corners, ornamented with a couple of marabouts.
Second Hat, AND BACK VIEW.--Drawn capote, shape very similar to the above, but the crown rather more elevated; the crown ornamented with a half garland of bows, extending rather more than half-way round it.
First CaP.-Blood cap, broad blond border, set in a somewhat circular shape, square cut round the face ;
PLATE II. Figure 1.-WALKING DRESS.–Batiste redingote; square cut collar, pelereine with double cape, with narrow double ruche edging ; cut on the bust enceur slightly rounded behind ; sleeves full and plain, narrow lace edging on the wristband. The ruche is continued from the ceinture downwards. Small shaped gros de Naples hat, ornamented with feathers.
Figure 2.-WALKING DRESS.—Muslin dress; high mounting corsage gathered in upright folds on the bust, with three or four gathers on the back, towards the ceinture; the pelereine, with a neud at the neck, gradually sloped to the shoulder, where it is rounded off; the slope takes in a contrary direction at the back. A scolloped edging is fixed round this, graduating in size. The skirt, which is made full, is ornamented with a flounce, of a similar pattern, but about treble the width. The sleeve is gathered at the wrist. The ricestraw hat is ornamented with blades of corn under the brim, and on the crown, ostrich feathers.
Figure 3.-Ball DRESS,—Tulle dress ; corsage half high mounting, and close fitting, the sleeves ornamented near the wrist with a wide bow fixed in the centre with piping, the wristband tight-fitting. The pelereine, which is shaped round, round the shoulders and back, like the preceding one, has long ends hanging more than mid-way down the skirt; the outside edges ornamented with block blond, double round the upper part and deep at the ends; the inside is edged with satin. Gros de Naples hat, the front somewhat deep, edged with lace, crown low and ornamented with satin ribbons, &c.
First Capote.—Tuscan straw capote, the brim very wide and deep, crown very low; a garland of leaves surround it.
First Har.—Rice straw hat, round shape turned up round the front and back, ornamented inside with two bouquets inside the brim, and the feathers between the brim and the crown—the latter considerably ele. vated.
Second Capote.—Drawn silk capote, rounded at the corners, the back low, the crown not much elevated, ornamented with ribbon næuds.
Third CAPOTE.-Gros de Tours capote, the side of the brim sloped rather inwards, the crown higb, or. namented with satin ribbon bows, and very small flowers.
Fourth CAPOTE.—Drawn capote ; wide open shape, and edged with narrow lace; curtain put on full, behind, crown conically shaped, ornamented with a ribbon ow, and gimps placed round the base.
Fifth Har.-Rice-straw hat, oval shaped, crown slightly elevated, and ornamented with a large ribbon næud at the side, and a couple of feathers placed upright.
CAP. AND SIDE VIEW.-Muslin cap. blond border dented, in which is inserted satin ribbon; a large næud at the summit.
PLATE 3. Figure 1, BACK VIEW.-Scoth gros redingote; high