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tached to the top of the back part of the mantilla.
Figure 3.-Morning Reception Dress.-Printed Jaconet dress, corsage half high mounting, fitting closely to the shape ; lace edging round the breast, embroidered muslin double pelereine, the ends extend. ing very little below the ceniture ; foulard d' apron, with large patterns and double line of bordering, forming angles entirely round it. Hair dressed, ready for the promenade or carriage.
First Hat & Back View.-Rice straw hat, ornamented with satin ribbon næuds and a couple of marabout feathers, one curled very short, the other hanging a considerable distance over the crown.
Second Hat & Back View.-Rice straw hat, small oval shape, ornamented, with small sprigs of delicate flowers, and satin ribbons.
First Cap & Back View.--A blond cap, full border elevated on the right, ornamented with roses.
Second Cap & Back View.-A tulle cap with scolloped border, ornamented with ribbons tied in three nouds behind.
similar rows ornament the front down the whole length; a chemisette reaches to the throat and is edged with very narrow lace. Hat, long oval shape; crown long and conically shaped, but not higli, ornamented with roses.
First Capote.-Drawn capote of batiste, ornamented with a bouquet, in which blades of corn are conspicuous; a large næud is tied at the side, the ends which are fringed hang down, one even with, and the other below, the sides of the capote, which take a large sweep round the face.
Second Drawn Capore.—The crown scarcely elevated, there being but a slight depression from it to the front; a double ruche circumvents a considerable portion of it, and ribbon bows ornament the top.
First CAP.-Shaped strictly round the face, with regular folds, oruamented with næuds.
Second CAP-Having a wide blond dented on each side, dissimilar in width and position, ornamented with roses on each side.
PLATE 3. FIGURE 1.–BALL Dress.-Close fitting, half-high mounting corsage en pointe, with lace edging, surmounted by a blond ornament puffed round and edged with lace, fixed in front by a brooch. A small neud with long ends is placed on the short sleeve. The hair is simply ornamented with ribbon næuds.
FIGURE 2.—MORNING Dress.-Muslin peignoir having a double cape frilled all round in deep and close gathers, and down the whole length of the dress, at equal intervals are næuds placed on the surface and not closing the dress; the sleeves are of an extreme width corresponding with the negligé style of the rest of this costume. Small cap with vandyked bordering, a næud with narrow edging ornaments the front.
Figure 3.—Walking Dress.—Gros de Naples dress, corsage half-high mounting, a large pelerine covering the shoulders completely and descending to nearly the end of the skirt, the whole edged with deep black blond lace. Drawn hat with a half lace veil.
First Hat.-A gros de Naples hat, open shape with bows placed inside, and marabouts ornamenting the crown.
Second HAT.—Similar shape to the above ornamented with a willow feather.
PLATE IV. FIGURE 1.-Carriage Dress - White muslin redin. gote, made half high at the shoulders, and low cnt on the bust, the corsage, one side of which overlaps the other, is edged with lace, and overlaid with four satin bands, as well as an undulating satin piping (platted) down the bust; a similar embellishment, with the exception of small oval additions being substituted for the above, extends down the front of the dress. On the sleeves, which are of a moderate width, are laid on at regular intervals, similar ornaments ; a broad hem gives a finish to the bottom of the skirt. Small oval-shaped hat of poult de soie, ornamented with Michaelmas daisies.
FIGURE 2.–Ball DRESS.-Gros de Naples dress, close fitting corsage, deep cut at the shoulders, mantilla of richly embroidered lace, dented at the shoulders, sleeves with double bouffans and lace sabot, extending beyond the elbow: a satin naud is fastened by a brooch to the top of the corsage, down the front of which is a line of small bows; two similar lines form a tablier in front of the dress, which is ornamented with five rows of lace same as the inantilla at the junction of each is fixed a small næud ; the skirt falls in deep folds, no ceinture, but a næud is fixed at the back, another is at.
NOTICES. Una Signora Inglese.-Drawn by Alais, Engraved by Ball.-Colnaghi & Co.
A characteristic portrait, the engraving of which is marked by some very delicate touches, and though the production of a young hand, is indicative of something very promising', when practice shall have given more firmness of handling.
Gallery of Practical Science.—There is not, perhaps, another exhibition in the metropolis, where so much genuine information, combined with amusement, may be obtained, as froin a morning spent at the Gallery of Practical Science, Adelaide Street.
The ingenuity of the mechanic is here so strikingly displayed, as to rivet the attention of the most careless observer of the productions of his art.
The wonders of the microscope, the terrific power of the steam gun, and the graceful agility of the automaton rope dancer, (a most beautiful piece of mechanism), alone, would render this exhibition worthy of inspection; yet these form but a small part of the interesting objects to be found within its walls. A day may indeed be spent here, and yet leave sufficient to enjoy upon a second visit.
Carved STATUES OP The Protestant ReformERS. - These are masterly productions, and are worthy of ato tention ; whether as historical records, or as admirable specimens of the art.
St. James's Gallery of PAINTINGS.-As usual, a choice selection of the works of the first masters.
Burford's PANORAMA OF THE CITY OF JERUSALEM.Like the exhibition of Carved Statues, this has a double claim to our notice. Few, who have the leisure, will refrain from visiting this excellent delineation of the Holy City; more especially, as we have every reason to believe dependance may be placed upon its correctness.
Society of Britsh Artists, SUFFOLK-STREET.We cannot speak so well of this exhibition as last year: Martin, Haydon, Rippingille and others, have some good pictures; yet the apparently unlimited number some artists have the power of introducing, cannot, have otherwise, than an injurious effect upon the meriis of the exhibition. How is it that sone of the worst pictures are hung in the best situations ?
The innkeepers, tradespeople, and others, at the watering
places in England, complain very much of the practice now so Feasting Extravagance &c.—Lionel of Clarenti gave an en. prevalent, among those ciasses of society who used to frequent tertainment at his marriage, at which there were thirty-six
such places, of going over to France, or some other part of the courses, from the fragments of which one thousand persons
Continent, in the season, and laying out their money with
foreigners, in preference to spending it in their native land. were fed. The matrimonial feast of Edward the Third cost 40,0001.-an enormous sum in those days. Ralph, Abbot of
It is said that Brighton and several other towns-were fashion St. Augustine, exceeded that sum hy 3,0001. at his installation
used to take its summer flight, and wealth extend its enlivening feast. In those days the clergy were the richest princes in patronage—now feel severely the impoverishing effects of this
uopatriotic practice, and are rapidly on the decline. We like Europe, The cardinals and bishops had frequently in their retinue a huudred and fifty or two hundred servants. We read
patriotism as much as those who make more noise about it, and of barons having thirty thousand dishes at the wedding-tables ;
we do not admire either the taste or principles of the Englishof monks complaining against their abbots for depriving them
man who can prefer the manners, the political institutions, or
the moral habits of the Continent, to those of his own country: of three out of the thirteen dishes they were accustomed to have at each meal; of other monks enjoying seventeen dishes
but we cannot conceal the fact that the persons who complain constantly, all of which were dressed with spices and rich
most loudly of this periodical migration of our countrymen to sauces : yet these monks had taken the vow of poverty and
foreign shores, are themselves the main cause of the practice self-mortification ! of 4001. being paid for almond-milk for the
which they condemn. If they would have people patriotic use of these self-mortifying friars on the fish-days ; and of an
enough to stay at home, and spend their money in the land from
which it is derived, they ought not to discourage them by exarchbishop (Neville) who had, among other dainties, one thousand of those beautiful birds of the heron kind, called egrettes,
tortion; and yet, what Englishman is there who takes up his served at his table at once ; since which time they have become
abode or obtains any sort of entertainment at what are called so scarce in the conntry, that he may be said to have devoured
respectable ions and hotels at watering places, and in any other the species at one meal. One of the Roman Emperors, fond of
parts of the kingdom, that does not find his intention to be rarities of an expensive nature, is said to have devoured two
pleasant, and to think every thing about him agreeable, so shuudred ostrich-brains to his supper. Heliogabalus used broken in upon by the system of fleecing, almost invariably always to feed at the most expensive rate—he ate fish when he
pursued, that his temper, like his purse, becomes very much was at a distance from the coast ; and when he was on the coast
the worse for wear. It is no wonder, that as rapacity exercises
its fangs on the cash of such a one, his admiration of native he must have game brought from the farthest inland. Authony and Cleopatra, trying to out-do each other in extravagance, she
hospitality declines, until at last he resolves to exchange pareduced to powder one of the richest jewels in the world, and
triotism and extortion for migration and economy. It is true, swallowed it at once. This reminds us of a celebrated old
that the high rate of taxation in this country, on all the neeccentric gentleman of great wealth in Glasgow, whose name
cessaries and conveniences of life, cannot allow the charges at is still familiar to the ears of the inhabitants. He went by the
our places of public entertainment to be as low as they are name of Bob Dragon, and his house where he shot himself was
among our continental neighbours; but certainly the taxation said by the credulous to be haunted for many years after. Bob
does not justify the prices which are in general demanded at and another betted one hundred guincas that each would eat
English inns. In the article of wine alone the innkeeper is not the most expensive meal ; Bob's rival however, had not wit
satisfied without making an enormous profit, usually cent. per enough; he had not read the story of Anthony and Cleopatra
cent. which drives thousands who do not like to dine without -he dealt fairly with Bob, and loaded his stomach with the
this luxury, to drink it in the cheap neighbourhood of its own rarest dainties. Bob merely took a slice of bread and butter,
vintage. But extortion, like other vices, produces its own and laid a fifty-pound note upon it, which he devoured in a
punishment, This truth is now exemplified. twinkling, with an air of triumph.
Origin af Madness and Moral Evil.—The use of ardent spirits Habits of Spiders.-M. Walcknaër related before the En- has long been the bane both of savage and civilized life ; and tomological Society of France, the following curious fact,
it is extraordinary, and no small reproach to the latter, that it which is given on the authority of Mr. Spence. Having placed
is among the former that the first firm and decided step is taken a large full-grown spider, of the species Epeïra diadema, on a
to put an end to an evil of such wide-spreading and alarming cane planted upright in the midst of a stream of water, he saw magnitude. At“ a talk" of North American Indians, it seems, it descend the cane several times, and remount when it had ar- these people determined to abolish the use of spirituous rived at the surface of the water. Suddenly he altogether lost liquors, alleging, with equal truth and simplicity, that “ they sight of it, but a few moments afterwards, to his great astonish- drove them crazy." That it should be left to savage life to ments, perceived it quietly pursuing his way on the other side discover and correct this important fact, reflects but little of the stream. 'The Epeära having spun two threads along the credit upon those civilized states in which the practice prevails cane, had cut one of them, which, carried by the wind, had be- and maddens thousands, and where not only no such resolution come attached to some object on the bank, and so served the as this is come to, bnt where the very government connives at spider as a bridge across the water. Mr. Spence believes tha
be madness and ruin of its subjects, and even condescends to spiders, when adult, always use similar means to cross watet
raise a large revenue by such means. Could the inmates of M. le Pelletier de Saint-Fargeau supported the opinion.
Bedlam, and of every Lunatic Asylum in this kingdom, be L'Institut.
examined for the purpose of tracing the origin of their awful
calamity, none so general as this would be found. Pride, “ AFTER looking through green spectacles for some time, disease, and mental affliction, are, we have no doubt large prowhite paper appears red ; and after looking through red spec- ducers of insanity ; but those, and all other causes put together tacles, white paper appears green.”—There are only three would not, we are convinced, furnish any thing like proportion original colours in nature; blue, red, and yellow. All the in the fearful catalogue, which would be found to have had their rest are compounds : white is a mixture of all. Now, in look- origin in this intellectual incendiarism. Those who mark the ing long at the red, the eye becomes tired; so that when the signs of the times cannot be ignoravt or indifferent to the truth wbite, which contains all the three, is presented to it, it ab- of this ; nor can we reconcile to any of our ideas of consistency stracts or overlooks the red; and the blue and yellow alone the recollection that we have had a government so straightbeing left, the paper appears green ; for blne and yellow make laced and horror-struck at depravity as to abolish the state lot. green. So, after looking through green, it abstracts the blue tery, but which can go on encouraging, rather than taking any and yellow (or green) and red is left. On the same principle, means to repress, this all-perverting contagion. if you look through yellow spectacles, the white will after- satire thus passed by these wild Indians upon civilized enwards appear purple; for blue and red, the complement of the couragers of this maddening habit will have any effect in reyellow, make purple. After looking through blue spectacles, pressing its prevalence, we are not sanguine enough to con the white appears orange, or red and yellow; and so on. This jecture ; but if we were asked on the one hand, what it is, that is is a law of nature, which leads to a knowledge of harmony in more than any thing else destroying the manly open character colours; blue makes the finest contrast to orange, and red to of the common people of these islands, we should say it is the green.
use of ardent spirits; and were we to prescribe, on the other,
what it is that would bring them back to the babits and the chaFear.-" The thing in the world,” says Montaigne, “ I am racter of former times, we should say that it would be by remost afraid of is fear." We should take a prudent care for turning to the wholesome, the refreshing, and invigorating the future, but so as to enjoy the present. 'Tis no part of beverage of their hardy ancestors, ill-exchanged, indeed, for wisdom to be miserable to-day, because we may happen to be liquid fire. so to-morrow.
CHARLES MAITLAND, OR THE MESS-CHEST. man in the service. It had been his lot, as well as mine,
to sail with a commander who allowed no opportunity BY WILLIAM LEGGETT.
to pass of proving his title to the nautical distinction he enjoyed, of being “the hardest horse in the navy."
But those days were over now; and the more elevated There are not many names on the list of those who rank, and more definite duties of a lieutenant, secured have sacrificed their lives for freedom, which deserve him, in a good measure, from a renewal of the annoymore honorable mention than that of Riego. I was in ances he had so long endured. the Mediterranean at the the time of the brave attempt Almost immediately on reaching the dignity of an which terminated so fatally for him; and I well re- epaulette, Charles had married a sweet girl, to whom member how eagerly we sought every disjointed scrap he had long been attached, and whom his narrow and of evidence which could be gathered concerning the uncertain resources had alone prevented from espousing romantic adventures of Mina with his little army in before. I stood groomsman on the occasion; and I Catalonia, and the firm and prudent efforts of his noble remember well how handsome the fellow looked, as he compatriot Riego. Old Port Mahon, according to led his blushing bride to the altar. A forty-four concustom, had been chosen for the winter-quarters of our voying a trig, snug, clean-rigged little baltimore clipper, squadron; and though the Mahonese were by no means could not appear more stately than he alongside that well affected to the cause of Ferdinand, yet the habitual modest and well-modelled girl. The truth is, Charley reserve of these islanders, prevented their disclosing was one of the finest-looking men in the service-tall, a very full account of what little they knew concerning well-built, round-chested, with an eye like an eagle's, the progress of events on the continent. Such drops and a mouth the habitual smile of which, or rather the of news as dribbled from them, therefore, rather in. slight pleasant curve approaching to a smile, denate creased than quenched the Aame of curiosity. This an excellent disposition. And never did dog vane show had arisen to great height, when it was at last sud- the course of the wind better than that smile expressed denly and sadly extinguished by the arrival of a little his temper. But I am wandering from my story. polacca vessel from Barcelona, which brought the me- The honey-moon—that briefest moon that ever sheds lancholy tidings of the defeat and flight of Mina, and its light on the matrimonial state-- had hardly yet be, of the capture and execution of his brother in arms. gun to wane, when Charles was ordered to sea in old 'This vessel had been despatched to Mahon with an Tronsides. The old craft was lying in the harbour, her official account of the triun,phal entry of Ferdinand top sails loose, her anchor short-stay apeak, and all into Madrid, just six days after the inhabitants of that ready to trip, sheet home, and be off. His name had city had witnessed the public termination of Riego's been pitched upon at the last moment, to supply the eventful career.
vacancy left by somebody who begged off'; and as there There were bonfires and illuminations in Mahon on was no time for remonstrance, he had nothing to do the receipt of this intelligence; but the outward de- but obey. I am no hand for painting scenes of the monstrations of rejoicings were rendered by fear not tender sort; so I leave Charley's parting with his young gladness; and were as false as the hollow-hearted mo
wife, and all that, " to sympathetic imaginations," as narch whose success they were kindled to celebrate. the girl in the play has it. Had the despatches communicated news of his death, But, avast a bit and belay there! What am I doing and of the triumph of the constitution, the revelry all this while ? A pretty piece of leeway I have made would have been another sort of affair ; the faces of of it! Here were we, a moment since, snugly moored the people, as well as their casements, would have been in the harbor of Wahon, for winter quarters; and now, lighted up for joy; and hearts as well as feet, would in the turning of a glass, have I put the Atlantic behave joined in the bolero and fandango, and bounded tween us and the scene of my story. Well, stations for to the music of the merry castinets.
stays !-helm's a-lee, and about she goes! And we One evening, during the mock rejoicings, I went on must now crack on all sąil, and make a short cruise of shore with Charles Maitland, one of our lieutenants, it, till we get back to our starting point. There is no and as fine a fellow as ever trod a frigate's quarter-deck. time now for buckling knee-buckles, as the boatswain's He was young in commission, having been but recently mate says, when he calls all hands in a squall at night; promoted, after a tedious service of two whole lustres so, to make a short story of it, let it sufice to say, in the subordinate capacity of midshipman, during which that Charles bade adieu to his wife, old Ironsides sailed, period he had been the object of a full share of the reached the Mediterranean in due time, went the usual * fantastic tricks," which naval commanders sometimes rounds over that cruising ground, (delightful cruising choose to play off upon those beneath them. When I ground it is, by the way,) and was now in daily exsay beneath them, I mean the phrase, so far as Charles pectation of the relief-ship, with orders for her return Maitland is concerned, to apply to the scale of military to the United States. gradation ; for in any other respect he was beneath no Well, as I said before, Mahon was all in a bustle on
account of the news from the continent. Bells were with that note. It could not be a challenge; for he ringing, music playing, bonfires shone in one place, and was beloved by all the officers of the squadron, and I illuminations glittered in avother. Groups of people, was very sure he had not been embroiled in any quarrel of all ages and conditions, were in every square and on shore. Besides, if it were so, he would have apopen place; and the expression of many a pretty face plied to me as his friend;-and then, again, women are that peeped out from the folds of the red mantilla, or not chosen as bearers of such messages. Yet that the the scowl of inany a dark eye that glared beneath the subject whatever it might be, was of no ordinary kind, shadow of the sombrero, denoted any thing but pleasure was evident from the impression which the perusal ocat the intelligence that had been received. Of all the casioned, and not less evident from his witholding the difficult tasks in the world, there is none harder than to matter from me. Our communion had always been of put on the semblance of joy at that which stirs our the most frank and unreserved .description; we had indignation ; and he who can best dissemble in such been shorers of each other's thoughts, sentiments, and cases - no matter how strong the motive-is not the wishes, from boyhood up; I had been in his confidence man I should choose for my friend.
through his whole course of wooing; and indeed, until Well, Charles and I went ashore one evening, as I the present moment, he had never shown a desire to said, during the rejoicings. We had no other object in keep any thing from my knowledge. Reflections of view than to take a long stroll together, along the ro- this kind caused me, perhaps, to give undue importance mantic shores of one of the prettiest and quietest bays to the circumstance which had just occured. I began in the world, and to converse without restraint (that, to fear that Charles was in some way concerned in an at least, I supposed was his motive) on the topic which unworthy adventure; and a vague suspicion, which I was ever uppermost in his mind. We were yet in the did not like to entertain and could not altogether reject, midst of the town, and were threading our way through took possession of my mind, that woman was at the the crowd in one of the principal squares, when a bottom of it. I turned with a slow step towards the woman-and a pretty old one too, as well as one might quay, and hummed, as I descended the long lateral judge by the withered and sallow face which her thread- road that is excavated from the perpendicular cliff which bare mantle was so disposed as only half to betray- overlooks the baysuddenly presen ed herself before us, and whispered
“ Though love is warm a while, a single word, in a low, guttural voice, to my companion.
Soon it grows cold ; One who has sat as many cold watches as I have, on
Absence soon blights the smile, the look-out, on the foretopsail-yard, naturally acquires
Ere love grows old" a quick eye; and it therefore did not escape me that
From this day forward, Charles's visits to the shore the old woman as she spoke to Charles, slipped a sealed
more frequent than before, but always in the note into his hand. She then passed on, mixed with
evening, and now he invariably went alone. If other the throng, and in an instant disappeared from my fol.
officers happened to go in the same boat, he was sure lowing glance. In Spain, the country of intrigue and
to separate himself from them on reaching the quay, romantic adventure, there was nothing so very singular
and pursile a direction different from the rest. This in this as to justify great surprise; and perhaps the
soon came to be noticed and to be talked of, and it was circumstance would soon have passed from my mind
whispered about in the mess that, on two or three ocaltogether, had not subsequent events, which I could
casions, he had been seen, late in the evening, walking not but consider in some way connected with it, kept it
with a female closely muffled, in an unfrequented and continually in my thoughts.
lonely part of the shore, at some distance from the On reaching the first convenient place, Charles paused
Different officers professed to have seen this to peruse the billet.
Its contents, whatever they were, female with him, and their description of her person seemed to engage him deeply, He stood pondering
tallied with each other. In the minds of the mess over the paper for several moments, with the air of one
generally, who did not know Charles so thoroughly in earnest and perplexed meditation; aud then, suddenly as I, and whose morality was not of so scrupulous a crumpling it in his hand, and thrusting it into his pocket,
kind as his-or as I had always thought his to becast round him a quick and apprehensive glance, as if
this matter created no surprise, and was was only laid fearful that some one might have overlooked him. There
hold of as furnishing an opportunity for sundry nautical was more confusion in his manner, and more hesitancy
jokes and witticisms. These jests however, met with in his speech, than I had ever before seen him exhibit,
such a reception as by no means encouraged those who when he approached me, a moment or two after this, and offered them to a repetition. said that an unexpected engagement would oblige him It chanced one day that Charles and I were sent on to forego the intended walk, and leave ine to pursue my shore on a piece of duty together, and that our business
lay in that part of the town to which it had been noticed i had known Charles Maitland from a boy. We that he always directed his steps. As we passed through had studied our lessons on the same form; had shot our
the streets, we discovered that there was a considerable marbles into the same ring ; had entered the navy
hubbub among the inhabitants, and we soon ascertained within a few weeks of each other; had been shipmates
that it was occasioned by a party of soldiers who had and messmates through two long and eventful cruises,
lately arrived from the Maine, commissioned to search and a good part of the time watchmates. I knew that
the island for certain proscribed constitutionalists, who he had a soul of honor; that his principles were well
were supposed to have taken refuge in Minorca. A established, his head clear, his morality nice, and that
good many of these wretched fugitives had been dishe loved his young wife with the most ardent attachment.
covered and executed; but the individual, against whom Yet for all this' I could not help feeling a certain indefinite fear that there was somethiug wrong connected
the proclamation of Ferdinand was chiedy directed, had hitherto eluded the vigilance of the blood-hounds.