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LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. | blue. A hat of rice-straw ornamented with blue fea


Corsages still continue croisés and in folds; with INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM

many of the fabrics now in general use, or the mousseLe Petit Courrier des Dames"_"Journal de Paris line de soie &c., this, or some such style is almost neet des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'In

cessary as a support to the very light fabrics employed. discret"-" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"--" Le

Sleeves are frequently and tastefully composed of tulle Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.

and muslin intermixed. A Pekin dress embroidered on a white ground, cor. Sleeves are now worn large near the wrist, and some sage à la Sévigné, carried a rich volant de blonde à are without gigots, which renders them very similar in tête, the same trimming edged the corsage; the top of appearance to the sleeves à l'imbécile worn about five or the sleeve, and the sabot underneath the volant, with a six years since. few næuds of ribbon to match.

Pelerines are still in vogue, many are worn double, A Pekin dress en Fontange of plain green ground, open before, and having a small square collar. embroidered with white columns, with little sprigs and Pelerines are frequently made to form canezous before bouquets of roses, of the natural color, also embroidered, and behind. was worn with the Lavallière corsage, the tops of Plain redingotes are frequently made with pelerines the sleeves in tulle with cross folds, separated by plain embroidered of a different shade, or of the same color. bands of the Fontanye material.

For canezous partially dress, muslin is prefered to A half dress robe of mousseline de soie, white batiste. ground with colored printed patterns, was trimmed with BALL DRESSES. --Mousseline de soie with short tulle towards the sleeves, and ribbons to match descend sleeves and low corsage, mittens of white lace and scarf ed in neuds called pages.

of the same, form a pretty ball toilet. An azure-blue gros des Indes dress, moiré with em Scarfs are also much made in mousseline de soie, the broidered eolumns en tablier, was ornamented with pliability of this fabric renders it very serviceable for gauze ribbons of the same color.

this purpose. They may be also very commonly seen A beautiful walking dress was observed of lilac in foulards, organdy, muslin embroidered in the same coloured satin, lace pattern; long sleeves, very large color &c. at the shoulders, falling in folds, which a close and Hats &c.--A capote of white pou de soie forming rather long wristband catches up at the extreme end. , auréole, surmounted by a triple næud of ribbon of

For négligés, redingotes of gros de Naples with low | white taffeta, carrying a half veil with blonde tulle at corsage, round which is a little pelerine prolonged to the hem has a simple and at the same time an elegant a point towards the ceinture in front, are becoming. effect. Round the corsage is embroidered muslin guimpe, A capote à coulisses, crown very elevated, ties closeedged round the neck by valencienne in gathers. Ruf. ing under the chin, green pou de soie lined with blond fles of embroidered muslin, trimmed with valenciennes, tulle, a very long blonde-tulle veil, a næud of ribbon fall on the bottom of the sleeve. The under-dress in of a large pattern to match, along with a large rose of ample folds is closed at the sides by a line of næuds. green, shaded; was in very good taste. The ceinture tied in like manner at the side, Embroi. The flower of the apple tree continues a favorite, dered edges round the pelerine.

both the white and coloured bloom, with very few leaves, It appears decided that for promenade dresses, the also colored roses and oak sprigs, of three different corsage en pointe is discontinued, but still worn in shades of green ; acorns look very well amongst these. the evening, both for full and half dress.

Italian straw hats are worn somewhat larger than Promenade dresses continue high, and the under others. They are adorned with flowers and ribbons of dress frequently adorned with biais.

taffeta, and when they are required to be more in full For redingotes of pou de soie, of gros de France, or dress, white feathers are used, a species of ornament of plain fabrics, two biais are made en Mathilde, in which returns every year and is always a general fathe midst of which are placed næuds.

vorite. Little satin næuds are elegant for a dress of pou de The chapeaux paillassons have become so general that soie of a delicate color; for the evening a négligé paré, they are almost matters of necessity, particularly for The under dress is simply closed without ornament. the country or the morning walk. the corsage flat, buttoned in the middle; and næuds For the dimensions of hats which are become much at equal distances are placed in a line from the ceinture larger, the beautiful Italian straw has seemed very well to the hem.

adapted. Lined muslin redingotes seem to return with every For the trimming a great variety of ornament is spring. This year we may see them more or less simple, I used-feathers, flowers, and ribbon nouds. but elegant: when undress, without embroidery or lace On hats, we observe a great variety of branches of trimmings.

fruit, of acacia placed in a bent position similarly to A very pretty toilet was distinguished in the gardens feathers, bouquets of various colored roses mixed carof Tivoli -a muslin dress embroidered with pale blue nations, apple flowers &c. worsted, of a gothic pattern forming a pretty device I The most common and well known flowers are those just above the hem, and rising on one side of the skirt | which are in most general use now for ornamenting to the ceinture. This embroidery which was much hats. Moss-roses and roses of all kinds, acacias, gelarger at the top than at the bottom, was ornamented raniums, are all employed in profusion. on the outside with a row of lace. Round the neck A blond-tulle turban ornamented with white silk; a little handkerchief with large checks of white and / two esprits falling on the left side has a good effect.


Also a capote in whalebone of pou de soie glaé and mousseline d'Inde embroidered, English veil, ribbons of gros de Naples embroidered in white silk.

Coiffures.-Small bouquets placed in the tufts of hair in the manner of næuds are so much liked that they are even worn under very plain blonde hats. For a very fair complexion, two tufts of violets are becoming.

Small ruches of tulle-blonde on each side are very frequently worn.

With one of the light mousseline de soie dresses a lady wore a muslin turban embroidered with silk, edged with a gold fringe, surmounted by a bird of paradise, very long and descending very low.

MATERIALS & COLORS. -For dresses we may still particularise the black printed foulards; a light delicate blue still answers very well for bouquets.

One may see many jaconas of various colors, pale blue, rose, cendre de rose, bright green, also muslins with columns, particularly of roses and bouquets of small Aowers prettily arranged. These are likely to have the preference when the weather is fine.

Mousseline de soie continues to be worn in scarfs, the ends of which are embroidered in different colored silks, black upon pale blue or rose, cherry on green &c. a fringe or grenadine of the color of the embroidery is fixed at the extremities. Of this material full dress robes are very commonly made.

A new material has been introduced, called Luisine, for which we cannot predict any great patronage, for though it is neither devoid of richness nor elegance, it will doubtless be considered inapplicable for the fine weather, being thick and heavy ; it is a kind of grey reps, with a small check, or a small black pattern woven across and forming furrows lengthwise.

Among the very numerous fabrics that have been lately introduced the mousseline de laine does not appear to have lost ground and may be considered among the prettiest of the summer costumes.

The jaconas with printed foulard patterns are very retty and excellent for summer wear.

Mousselines de soie are every where employed in scarfs or dresses, this fabric which on account of its lightness cannot well receive very bright or heavilyprinted patterns has most frequently small sprigs and bouquets.

Varieties.—There has been very little change in the make of canezous, and embroidered muslin and tulle mantillas-we may except the depth and richness of the lace with which they are trimmed which is frequently seen in triple rows.

Handkerchiefs do not now carry large hems. Nothing is prettier than a very fine batiste edged with five or six rows of Turkish point, alongside of a valenciennes border.

A new piece of bijouterie is called à la Sévigné though composed actually of numerous pieces à la Sevigné one under the other like scales, this new article of jewellery is fixed high on the bosom and descends to the ceinture. It is enriched with many colored stones, and the setting elegantly chased.


DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT:" Le Follet, Courrier des Salons"...“ Le Petit Cours : rier des Dames"..“ La Mode''..." Journal des Dames" &c. &c.

L'été anticipé dont nous jouissons en ce moment, a jeté quelque défaveur sur les soieries, mousselines, laines et satins-cachemires.

L'on remarquait beaucoup de blane en mousseline et jaconas-mousseline.

Partout de la mousseline de soie employée pour écharpes ou pour robes, cette étoffe qui se refuse par sa légèreté à reproduire des couleurs trop vives, est généralement imprimée de bouquets ou de feurs naturelles. L'on continue à faire des corsages croisés et à plis, ce qui, sans nuire à l'élégance, donne à cette partie du vêtement un soutien nécessaire à un tissu aussi mince ; les manches sont composées de tulle et de mousseline entrecoupés.

Une dame parée d'une de ces jolies robes, portait un . turban en mousseline brodée de soie plate, bordé d'une frange d'or et surmonté d'un oiseau de paradis très-long et descendant fort bas.

Nous avons vu bon nombre de petits bonnets de blonde garnis d'une profusion de fleurs. Une guirlande-diademe remplaçait dans quelques-uns les nouds ordinaires de rubans dont on relève la garniture.

Sans crainte de tomber dans les proverbes, nous redirons avec tout le monde, avec feu l'Opéra Comique, que la simplicité ajoute à l'élégance et à la beauté. Qui voudrait s'en convaincre, dans la mise constamment unie et de bon goût de la jeune duchesse d'O., point de garnitures à sa robe Fontange blanc broché bleu et mus. cade, au corsage plissé en cœur et busqué; coupée un peu longue, un double ourlet se distingue au bas ; collant sur le bras, les manches sont fermées par un poignet en biais. Une ceinture blanche s'attache d'une boucle en or bruni; un fichu de tulle blonde uni découvre son beau col noué d'une écharpe de Bruxelles; une chaine d'or retenant un binocle semble un attirail nécessaire plutôt qu'une parure, et sauf une multitude de bagues de prix, rien sur notre modèle n'annonce la richesse; sa jo. lie tête s'enfonce sans prétention au froncé d'un petit bounet de blonde ruché, relevé de deux roses pâles mé. lées au noir brillant de sa chevelure et recouvert d'un chapeau d'Italie forme tuyau, garni d'une longue plume blanche et de rubans de satin blanc.

Rien de pédantesque désormais, de recherché dans le nom ou le genre des fleurs dont nos dames parent cette année leurs coiffures, les fleurs ordinaires, les plus connues sont les seules que nous ayons vu employer:

Roses mousseuses, noisette, roses à cent feuilles, nombreuses branches d'acacia de diverses puances, de l'ébénier, du spiréa, du géranium en grappes, des feuillages simples, de la germandrée, &c.

La mode de monter à cheval se propage de plus en plus chez les femmes de Paris ; il y a maintenant pres. que rivalité avec les Anglaises. Dans toutes les prome. nades on rencontre des amazones. Il est à remarquer que le bon genre est d'être accompagné par un ou deux cavaliers à côté de soi et un écuyer à quelques pas derrière. On laisse son équipage à la barrière ou à l'entrée du bois.

Le costume des amazones ne peut guères varier, et la tabliers en batiste brodée, garnie de valencienne. Ils seule distinction est dans la perfection de la coupe. | se portent avec des robes de couleur. Les jupons de drap, avec des canezouts de batiste, sont Une très-jolie toilette du soir est une robe demi-hanombreux depuis ces derniers jours de chaleur. Le billée en organdi peint. petit plissé autour du cou, soutenu par une eraxate de Des mousselines claires imprimées, petits dessins, de gros de Naples à carreaux ou de la couleur du jupon; | deux couleurs, toilettes de promenade. les pantalons en coutil à sous-pieds, des petites bottes,

De charmans foulards, l'un entre autres, fond noir des gants de peau de renne, une cravache en rhinocéros | semé de roses panachées. ou une badine de chez Vernier, voilà ce que nous avons Des jaconas d'une finesse remarquable et d'une per. vr l'année dernière, ce que nous revoyons aujourd'hui,

fection de dessin étonnante. Nous avions été frappés et ce que nous sommes obligés de répéter pour rendre d'une piéce nommée jaconas plume comme une merveille un compte exact de la mode.

d'impression, et nous l'avons retouvée aux expositions Cependant il était une variation possible dans la de l'industrie. Ce dessin est formé par une espèce de sévérité de ce costume; il était une élégance piquante

plume bleu outre-mer, se contrariant avec une autre qui pouvait s'introduire dans l'uniformité héréditaire de plume imprimée en violet comme le pointillé de la tailces coiffures empruntées aux hommes, et quelquefois si ledouce. C'est doux, frais: léger, le bleu est si pur, disgracieuses aux physionomies de certaines femmes. l'étoffe est si fine! on ne peut voir rien de plus joli, de Ces chapeaux de feutre pouvaient aller à ravir à quelques plus printemps. jeunes figures d'une expression mutine et tant soit peu

De toutes les perfections de notre industrie la fabricagarçonnière ; mais, pour quelques-unes de ces heu

tion des schalls est certainement la plus étonnante aureuses exceptions, combien de femmes, pour se soumettre

jourd'hui. On n'eût jamais pensé, il y a dix ans, atteinà l'usage, devaient échanger la douceur de leurs traits dre un tel degré de supériorité. Les schalls que nous contre l'aspect dur et hommasse attaché infailliblement | voyons à l'exposition sont une de nos gloires industriel. à cette coiffure masculine, sans compter la difficulté dans les : pour les faire mieux apprécier, nous allons donla manière de la porter! car était-il rien de plus fâcheux, ner un apperçu de leurs diflérens genres de travail. 11 de plus ingrat que cette instabilité du chapeau qui,

existe deux grandes branches qui sont comme la souche tantôt incliné de côté par l'effet d'un temps de galop,

de tout les schalls: les schalls façon de l'Inde, dits vous faisait ressembler à une figure de Colin. Tout

espoulinés, et les schalls ordinaires faits au lancé et cela ne pouvait résister à la coquetterie des Françaises,

découpés à l'envers. Les premiers sont les plus chers, et, da jour où elles se prirent à aimer l'équitation, à en

les plus recherchés les seconds ne sont pas moins agréfaire une mode, il fallait trouver un plus attrayant sys.

ables à la vue, mais il n'offrent pas une égalc solidité, tème de coiffure.

et déplaisent par le découpage de leur travail. Ce qui On remarquait beaucoup, ces jours derniers, un cha. distingua jusqu'a ce jours la supériorité des schalls de peau en pou de soie blanc, orné de rubans de taffetas et l'Inde, c'est la richesse de leurs dessins, le fini de leur d'une rose mousseuse ; un chapeau en pou de soie bleue

exécution, ce que l'on comprend par la facilité qu'on a avec un ruban muguet et un bouquet de macrina, feur de prodiguer la main-d'auvre, dans un pays où les bleu au feuillage découpé. Puis enfin un chapeau pour ouvriers sont tellement nombreux, que le salaire n'exmonter à cheval, en paille blanche et verte, forme ronde,

cede pas trois sous par jour; aussi les Indiens n'épargnbords à peu près égaux, un peu relevé d'un côté; sur la ent-ils pas les espoulines, c'est-à-dire ces milliers de calotte droite était posé un bouquet de plumes vertes et

petits fuseaux chargés de fil coloré qu'on fixe sur l'échelle des rubans de taffetas vert; tout autour, un voile de gaze

en manière de trame. vert. Une joli femme, serait charmante avec cette mode coquette, et toute emprunté aux coiffures de nos mères. MODES D'ENFANS nos petits garçons sont fort gentils

BLACK-EYES AND BLUE. avec de petites vestes anglaises en drap bleu pâle, à point devant et derriêre, manches à gigots, collet à

BLUE eyes and jet châle, et un pantalon de coutil blanc tout plissé autour

Fell out one morn; de leur taille. Un peu plus âgés, une polonaise en

Azure cried, in a pet, drap noir ou bleu garnie d'olives, serrés sur un pantalon

" Away, dark scorn; blanc, leur sied peut-être mieux encore. Quant aux

We are brilliant and blue

As the waves of the sea : enfans du premier âge, c'est toujours la petite blouse à

“ And as cold, and untrue, corsage à pièce sur les épaules, et plissée partout; les

Aud as changeable, ye.” manches froncées au poignet. Le pantalon pareil à la

“ We are born of the sky, blouse. On en voit beaucoup en coutil à mille raies.

Of a summer night, Le pantalon forme la guêtre carrée sur le pied. Une

When first stars lie petite chemisette plissée autour du cou; une casquette

In a bed of blue ligbt." en crin blanc ou gris avec une visière étroite attachée

“ From the cloudy zone

Round the setting sun, sous le menton par une bride de peau vernissée en noir.

Like an angel's throne Pour chaussure, des bottines ou des guêtres.

Are our glories won." Quant aux petites filles, ce sont toujours robes, pan

“ Pretty ladies, hold,” talons, et pélerines pareilles. Chapeau de paille cousue,

Capid said to the eyes; à passes longues se prolongeant, au lieu de calotte sur

“ For beauties that scold la tête. Un seul ruban croisé pour les nouer. Beau

Are seldom wise : coup de petits tabliers courts en batiste écrue, brodée

Tis not colour I seek,

Love's fires to impartdans la même nuance, ayant des poches et des bretelles

Give me eyes that can speak formant ceinture. On fait aussi ce même genre de

From the depths of the heart.”


A French actress, Mademoiselle Felix, possessing a fine fi

gure, and very handsome, was engaged at Petersburgh, where The ruling passion or habit.-Haller, the great physician, she performed in tragedy. One day, when she became the seems to have been making his very latest sensations, and the subject of conversation at the table of the Empress Catharine, final struggles of his body, subjects of professional experiment the young Lans Koy, the reigning favourite spoke of her with and curiosity. “My friend,” said be to his medical attendant, so much warmth and launched out into such high praise of her “ the artery no longer beats,”-and expired. Few people, graces, that from that moment, it was noticed, the Einpress no perhaps, have lived to announce such a fact of their own sys longer saw her with pleasure, and forbore to command the pieces tem.

in which this actress might have been seen with advantage. Distributive Justice.--An officer and a lawyer talking of the

On her side, Mademoiselle Félix felt piqued, spoke with disastrous battle d'Auerstadt, the former was lamepting the

much freedom, and, what will hardly be credited, beiween the number of brave soldiers who fell on that occasion; when the

sovereign and the stage-heroine an open warfare was at length lawyer observed, that those who live by the sword mast ex.

carried on. New expedients, to disgust and humble the latter, pect to die by the sword. “ By a similar rale,” replied the

were daily resorted to; and every day the actress became more officer, “ those who live by the law must expect to die by the

firm against this persecution, at the same time that her lanlaw.”

guage and her sarcasms often drove her enemies to despair.

It is known that at Petersburgh the distinction of ranks re. The heart of man is like a creeping plant, which withers un

quires that a certain number of horses only should be harness. less it has something roand which it can entwine.

ed to the carriage.--Mademoiselle Félix, who displayed her fi: The Irish peasant.-During the mareh of a regiment, the gure, in the principal streets of the capital, like a princess, with. Honourable Captain P— , who had the command of the ar four or six horses, received an order to appear with two only. tillery baggage, observing that one of the peasants, whose car Enraged at this prohibition, she resolved to violate it, and even and horse had been pressed for the regiment, did not drive as to brave the Empress within the parlieus of her palace. For fast as he ought, went up to him and struck him. The poor that purpose, she demanded the equipage and carriage of fellow shrugged up his shoulders, observed there was no oeca Count Soltikof, her lover, whose rank permitted him to drive sion for a blow, and immediately quickened the pace of his with six horses She was now to be seen taking turns in the animal.

Park of Cazorel, until she fell in with the Empress, which was Some time afterwards, the artillery officer having been out what she bad most at heart. Enraged at the boldness and aushooting all the morning; entered a cabin for the purpose of dacity of the girl, the latter instantly sent an order to the suresting himself, where he found the very peasant whom he had perintendant of the police of Petersburgh, for her to quit the struck, at dinner with his wife and family. The man, who city within twenty-four hours, and the imperial dominions was very large and powerfully made, and whose abode was so within eight days. In another state, less despotic, she might litary, might have taken fatal revenge upon the officer; instead have been punished with more severity. The count, her lover, of which, immediately recognizing him, he choose the best po was exiled on one of his estates. tatoe out of bis bowl, and presenting it to his guest, said, On her coming to Paris, after this sensible humiliation, she “ There, your honour, oblige me by tasting a potatoe, and I displayed all her loftiness of character, or, it may be said with hope it is a good one; but you should not have struck me, a more justice, her impertinence; for, having been badly receiv. blow is hard to bear.

ed in the character of Alzire, which was allotted to her, and Some remarkable anecdotes, illustrative of the intolerable

the hisses having become general at the moment when she

threw herself at the feet of Alvares, she turned towards the pride of a late Duke of Somerset are related on various authorities. His secopd duchess once familiarly tapped him on the

audience, with a shrug of the shoulders, and an air of conshoulder with her fan; when he turned round, and with a look

tempt, such as might have been punished by a residence of a of marked displeasure, observed, “ My first duchess was a

few weeks in the Hôtel de la Force, if it had not been certain Percy, and she never took such a liberty.

that she would never again make her appearance on the boards · His children were taught to obey his injunctions with the

of the Capital. most profound respect. The two youngest of his daughters An Earthly Paradise. According to the Venetian traveller were accustomed to stand and watch him alternately whilst be and Arabian author of the Sirem Hakembiemr-illah," there was slept in an afternoon. On one occasion Lady Charlotte feeling at Alamoot, and also at Masiat, in Syria, a delicious garden, herseif fatigued, sat down, The duke waked unexpectedly, encompassed with lofty wails, adorned with trees and flowers and, expressing surprise at her disobedience, declared he would of every kind-with murmuring brooks and translucent lakesremember her want of decorum in his will. He left this daugh with bowers of roses and trellices of the vine-airy halls and ter 20,0001. less than her sister.

splendid kiosks, furnished with the carpets of Persia and the Noble, in his continuation of Granger, relates that the Duke silks of Byzantium. Beautiful maidens and blooming boys once sent for the celebrated painter, James Seymour, to Pet. were the inhabitants of this delicious spot, which ever resound. worth, to take the portraits of his race-borses, and one day at ed with the melody of birds, the murmur of streams, and the dinner drank to him with, “ Cousin Sevmour, vour health.”

ravishing tones of voices and instruments;-all respired con. The painter replied, “ My lord, I really do believe I have the tentment and pleasure. When the chief had noticed any youth honour of being of your grace's family, " The Duke, offended, to be distinguished for strength and resolution, he invited him • rose from table, and desired his steward to pay Seymour and to a banquet, where he placed him beside himself, conversed

dismiss him. Another artist was sent for ; biit finding himself with him on the happiness reserved for the faithful, and conincapable of finishing the pictures in the style in wich they were trived to administer to him an intoxicating dranght, prepared begun, he liad the honesty to acknowledge it to the Duke, and from the hyoscyamus. Wbile insensible, he was conveved into humbly recommend him to recall Seymour. The haughty peer the garden of delight, and tbere awakened by the application did condescend to summon his cousin once more, who answer of vinegar. On opening his eyes all Paradise met his view; the ed the mandate in these words;--My lord, I will now prove black-eyed and green-robed honries surrounded hin, obedient myselt of your grace's family, for I won't come.

to his wishes; sweet music filled his ears; the richest viands The witty Sir James Delaval, upon a particular occasion, laid were served up in the most costly vessels; and the choicest a wager of 10001. that he would make the Duke give him pre wines sparkled in golden cups. The fortunate youth believed cedence; for his grace was all eye and ear in every thing in himself really in the Paradise of the prophet, and the language which bis dignity was concerned. Delaval, however, having of his attendants confirmed the delusion. When he had had is on a certain day obtained information of the precise time at fill of enjoyment, and nature was yeilding to exhaustion, the which the Duke was to enter a certain part of the road in his opiate was again administered, and the sleeper transported way to town, stationed bimself there in a coach emblazoned back to the side of the chief, to whom lie communicated what with the arms, and surrounded by many servants in the livery passed, and who assured bim of the truth and reality of all he of the house of Howard, who called out when Somerset appear. I had experienced; telling him such was the bliss reserved for ed, “ the Duke of Norfolk !" Fearful of committing a breach of the obedient servants of the Imaum, and enjoying at the same etiquette, his grace hurried his postilion under a hedge, where time the strictest secresy. Ever after, the rapturous vision he had no sooner drawn op, than Delaval drove by, and, lean. possesed the imagination of the deladed enthusiast, and he ing out of the carriage-window, bowed with a tamiliar air, and panted for the hour when death, received in obeying the comwished his grace a good morning; who indignantly exclaimed, mands of his superior, should dismiss him to the bowers of " Is it you, Sir James ? I thought it had been the Duke of Nor Paradise. folk.” This stratagem was much talked of, and created a good deal of amusement at the time.

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