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A remarkably pretty cap having a near resemblance to the turban has been lately introduced, called à la juive; the ties as well as the cap in tulle, the former which are very large and full, fasten on one side the cheek; this coiffure is particularly becoming when the hair is worn either in bandeaux or nattes at the sides.

We may make mention of a very pretty hat of pou de soie glacé, the ribbon with broad pattern, matching the poa de soie, to which was attached a very pretty artificial sprig.

A dress capote of paille de riz with ribbons of taffetas glaces, forming a plaid by a white line aeross; the front of a light form bound with pou de soie.

Round the front of the hats many rouleaux are used, nearly a couple of inches wide, a rouleaux of a similar description at the top of the calottes.

White silk and satin hats ornamented wsth roses are still much worn.

Italian straw hats or capotes trimmed with ribbons of taffetas paille assortis, or ombrés, the hne sometimes of French white or delicate blue. Ribbons are not so extremely large as they have been. Little bouquets of flowers are more generally admired by ladies of taste.

MATERIALS AND COLOURS.-Muslins with very large columns, coloured and white alternately, have a very good effect; others of black, yellow and lilac ground, have different patterns in flowers, such as roses, poppies, tulips, &c., foullis and of the most brilliant hues.

Patterns are generally much larger than they have been for some time past.

A variety of new fabrics have been lately introduced, the following is a list of the most striking.--

For morning promenade dresses and half toilette. Salemporis-silk and worsted tissue like the improved chaly of various designs, the ground either plain or of different colours.

Salemporis croisé, of a similar fabric to the preceding article, but inferior in splendour and quality.

Batistes de Cachemire-embroidered in different shades.

Satins de Bombay-silk and cachmere tissues satinés in every variety of shade.

Mousselines de Delhi,—silk and cachmire tissue streaked and quadrillés.

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Gaze Pékin.---A material, transparent, and at the same time strong; embroidered designs elegantly executed in every variety of shade.

Diamantine.-dressed silk.

Gros de France-dressed silk

Gros de Fontange,-with little worked stars. Armure dentelle,-varied net work of every shade. Muslins for fancy dress.

Jaconas point d'Alencon,―beautifully worked. Mousselines et Jaconas,-in a vast number of designs VARIETIES.-Pocket handkerchiefs have never exhibited greater profusion of ornament than at present. They are completely loaded with embroidery and lace. Exquisitely fine valencienne lace thickly gathered round and five or six inches deep is employed.

Seven or eight rows of points turcs as well as elegantly embroidered bouquets of flowers are very frequent More than three hundred franks is not unfrequently given for these handkerchiefs. Mouchoirs à ourlets are quite disused now.

For fancy costume foulard collars are pretty and very generally adopted, folded in form of a cravat with ties at the end of green, cherry or rose-coloured ribbons.

A very rich and splendid trimming for a ball dress is a garland encircling the hem, of beautiful flowers formed by feathers in their natural colours.

A new species of cosmetic of vegetable origin, called beurre de cacao, is gaining some degree of patronage already.

Batiste will certainly not supersede muslin for pelerines, &c. the former is now only worn in the morning and with valenciennes.

Aprons are now much disused.

Gold bracelets in form of a band, with antique cameo clasps are very fashionable.

Bracelets in the form of serpents with precious stones for eyes, rings of the same kind are much worn and on the fourth finger of the left hand.

The Mantelet Marion as well as the Mantelet pelerine from a distinguished house, are in great vogue. One of the first we observed in the black blond lined with a similarly-coloured moire, fell down pointed in front, of a middling length. The mantelet pelerine was of a black lace lined with citron-coloured moire, descending to the ceinture, trimmed with lace froncée-the neck trimmed with a ruche.

Mantillas of silk gauze with golden patterns have a beautiful effect

The Amadis sleeves though attempted to be revived will hardly find favor in the eyes of our elegantes to any great extent. Sleeves plaited from the upper part and gradually tapering to the wrist, where they fit close are in more general request.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

[The description of the plates which has hitherto taken up a considerable portion of our space, we have long considered might be much more appropriately devoted to matters of more interest and more utility; though, in accordance with the general usage in similar works, we have long given a detailed description, we could never discover the advantage of describing dresses, &c., so accurately delineated in the engravings, and particularly to those who are so perfectly au fait in all matters of taste and elegance.

Our descriptions are already very ample of dresses not engraved; and we propose, of the actually engraved ones, only to notice those which in form or material may not be familiar to our readers. This matter will be found under the proper heads in the article "London and Parisian fashions."

If our fair subscribers take a different view of the subject, they will be kind enough to communicate with us-we will bow to their decision.]

MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRESPUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES. COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT:

"Le Follet Courrier des Salons"--" Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-" La Mode"-" Journal des Dames" &c. &c.

Long-champ n'a produit cette année que peu de nouveautés, et cela, parce que le temps froid et humide a empêché nos élégants hommes et femmes de se vêtir à la légère; mais en revanche, par un beau soleil et un temps moins incertain, l'allée de Long-Champ au bois de Boulogne, a été dimanche dernier le rendez-vous des plus jolies femmes et des plus élégans cavaliers de Paris. Les femmes avaient de superbes écharpes en foulards, et même aussi des chales en foulards d'une richesse éblouissante; en toilette négligée ces châles doivent être mis en première ligne.

On voit toujours beaucoup de robes en mousseline doublée de gros de Naples, quelques-unes couleur sur couleur, d'autres blanches sur des robes de soie de couleurs diverses.

On fait toujours force pélerines, elles ont surtout une ampleur extraordinaire, presque toutes sont ouvertes sur le devant, de manière à dégager le corsage et la taille.

Les jupes sont três longues et ont acquis encore un laiz de plus.

Les manches ont repris toute leur ampleur ; elles sont maintenant beaucoup plus larges que jamais, mais il y a presque toujours un poignet haut de quelques doigts et qui varie pour la forme.

Les robes à dessins sont trés recherchées, mais on ne dispose plus de dessins à colonnes.

Les dentelles conservent toute leur vogue; on en garnit presque toutes les toilettes légères.

La lingerie a subi sa rèvolution; rien n'est plus joli, ni plus recherché par une femme comme il faut, que les bonnets à la JUIVE, ces bonnets, si différens de tout ce qui a été fait jusqu'à ce jour, sont d'une simplicité qui ajoute à leur mérite; ils sont en tulle et forment à peu prés le turban; les brides en tulle fort larges et longues viennent nouer sur le côté de la joue; cette coiffure sied à merveille avec des cheveux en bandeaux ou des nattes sur les côtés.

Les cannezous sont simples aussi, mais d'un goût exquis; nous avons vu un cannezou-pélerine en batiste unie, dont la garniture se composait de dents unies posées l'une contre l'autre, de maniére à ce que l'on n'en voie que la moitié de chaque; chaque dent était bordée d'une petite valenciennes. Ce cannezou formait grande nouveauté.

Pour robes de campagne on enlève de toutes parts les jaconas point d'Alençon, qui sont d'une disposition toute convenable à l'été. Qu'on se figure sur un fond

rose, lilas ou bleu une large dentelle jetée dessus en formant colonne, les unes serpentent, les autres autres paraissent froncées ou tuyautées: il y a vraiment de l'illusion dans ce dessin, tant il est parfaitement exécuté. La forme des robes ne présente aucun changement remarquable, seulement beaucoup moins de corsages à pointes dans les robes d'été. Les manches varient et n'ont point une mode fixe. Elles sont très larges où très-collantes du bas, mais toujours énormément amples en haut. On les orne de crevés ou de nœuds à la place de la couture, depuis la saignée jusqu'au poignet. On en fait aussi beaucoup de demi-larges vers le bas.

Les redingotes sont très à la mode et très-nombreuses; on en fait dans toutes les étoffes négligées ou parées. Celles en mousseline, doublées de gros de Naples de couleur, formeront les plus élégantes toilettes d'été, lorsque quelques jours de chaleur auront bien décidément prouvé que l'été est arrivé.

CHAPEAUX. Sur beaucoup de chapeaux on voit des bouquets de feuilles de chêne avec leurs gland. La pimprenelle est très-jolie, mêlée avec du ruban jardinière. Sur un chapeau de pou de soie rosé, une branch de roses des quatre saisons est d'un charmant effet. En général, les fleurs printannières sont à la mode.

Un chapeau vert clair en soie brochée et quadrillés, orné d'une branche d'acacia et d'un nœud de ruban vert liseré en blanc, ayant au bord un demi voile de blonde unie, entouré d'une petite coquille, et dans l'intérieur de la passe une ruche terminée aux deux côtés du front par un nœud, est une mode très-simple et tres-bien adoptée.

Pour négligé, les formes coniques et les passes collantes sur les joues sont les plus nombreuses: mais pour chapeaux à plumes ou grandes toilettes, les passes sont rondes et très-évasées.

Les cannezous en mousseline brodée sont entourés de point d'Angleterre lorsqu'ils sont destinés aux grandes toilettes, et garnis de valencienne pour nêgligé. On en voit dont le fond est couvert de branchages brodés au plumetis et s'entremêlant, comme le dessin des robes à la mode. Ce genre est beaucoup plus distingué que les semés de petites fleurs. On fait peu d'ourlets. La dentelle s'attache sur le point turc qui borde le dessous de la broderie.

Le luxe des cols rabattus est très grand et relève la plus simple toilette. Ces cols, qui se font assez grands, supportent aujourd'hui des dentelles de toutes les dimensions et genres de points; aussi y emploie-t-on tout ce que l'on possède de beaux points d'Angleterre, Malines, Alençon, oubliés au fond des cartons depuis la vogue des petites dentelles. On fait des collets doubles; mais ceux-ci, moins chargés de broderies, ne peuvent se garnir que de dentelles assez basses. Au-dessus d'une guirlande est souvent une rangée de bouquets.

Les petits bonnets du matin ont deux et trois garnitures de petites dentelles, le fond en mousseline brodée. On les orne plutôt avec des rubans de satin qu'avec des rubans de gaze. Quelquefois les nœuds sont en mousseline garnis de dentelle; on les place toujours très en arrière du front.

Long-Champs devrait être soumis à des réglemens comme le Musée et les salles d'exposition de l'industrie : il devrait y avoir un jury d'admission qui rejetterait ces sortes de bahuts qui ne sont pas des voitures, et ces animaux inexplicables qui ne sont ni chevaux, ni mulets, ni vaches, ni veaux marins.

MISCELLANEA.

English Singers.-Braham had formerly real talents, which were developed in Italy; but more than forty-five years have elapsed since his first debut at the King's Theatre, and the fine voice with which nature endowed him has yielded to so long an exercise. In the Italian Opera, he sang in his natural key, and without forcing his voice: but the habit of playing at the English Theatres for some years past has given him the defect of bawling, for the English people love a powerful and startling voice above all things. The decay of his powers is manifested by his intonation, which is often below the proper pitch. As an actor he is completely ridiculous, but the English public do not perceive it. To look again at that Braham who has so long been the object of their affections is sufficient for them; and it will continue the same as long as this singer can tread the stage.

Mrs. Wood (Mis Paton), the first songstress of England, had also remarkable talent. She is a good musician, plays well on the harp and piano, and sings the English and Scotch airs with a great deal of expression; but the desire of pleasing an ignorant public has given her the habit of forcing her voice, and her intonation is often very defective.-I have heard Miss Love, she possessed a good contralto voice, which she kept within its natural compass; she bawled less than Mrs. Wood, but did not possess the same facility of execution. The visitors of Drury Lane are very partial to her.

Among the tenors, is a certain Mr. Wood, who enjoys the public favour, but whom I considered detestable. I heard him at Covent Garden, in the "Maid of Judah," a parody on Ivanhoe he seemed to me fit for nothing but bellowing. The other pretended tenors are still worse than he As for the bass singers, there are two who deserve to be distinguished-Sapio and Phillips. The latter has a fine voice, and much freedom in his style; but he is cold, and little adapted for a dramatic singer.

The long Bow-I have witnessed the practice of each coun⚫ try, and hardly know to which to award the palm. The Americans take an extraordinary range, and shoot very fearlessly. The French, if not so strong, are peculiarly dexterous; but an Irishman possesses a wonderful facility for shooting round corners, particularly if a tailor is after bin. The most extraordinary feat I ever witnessed was of an Irishman, who shot up Holborn Hill, and with such prodigious force, that both his eyes went clean through a brick wall! This is a fact, for I saw it. I have known some good shots among the English, particularly the ladies, who draw a very powerful bow; one, particularly, I remember, who shot so far beyond the mark, that her shaft was positively lost in the clouds! She was a member of the "Toxopphite" society, of which the late king was president. There was another capital English shot, a friend of mine, who belonged to the "Royal Kentish Bowmen " he used to relate, that once riding from Seven Oaks, he was overtaken by a thunder-storm; he hoped to escape it by giving his horse the reins, and singular enough he just kept a-head of it by about half a yard! In this manner he gallopped at speed five miles, I may say, neck and neck with the thunder-cloud, the rain, or rather torrent, descending exactly upon his horse's crupper all the way: the road behind was literally deluged; as he empha tically observed, it could only be compared to being within half a yard of the falls of Niagara! He was fortunately saved from the cataract by shooting up a gateway. It was a capital shot. If any impertinent doubt was ever expressed at this relation, the archer would say fiercely," Sir, if you want a lie, I'll give you one; but that's a fact, by G-d!" and no man was better able; he was one of the best shots I knew.

I mentioned the French as dexterous marksmen. I once koew a gentlemen from Gascony-proverbial for its archery; he had been an officer under Napoleon-by the way, I have always remarked the saperiority of soldiers and sailors in their management of the weapon he told me of a duel in which he had been engaged at Paris, where the signal was un, deux, and to fire the word trois. It must be understood we had been quizzing the Parisians on their affectation in rolling the letter R about their mouths previous to utterance. "My opponent " said the Gascon," was of the Garde Impériale--sacré tonnerre—he was a dead shot. I had but one chance, and I watched it narrowly. The second gave the word, un, deur; but Cadédis, long before he could finish the word TROIS, I shot my man dead!" I must observed that my lively friend was equally good with the

pistol as with the bow. He was very jealous of the honour of his province, which he never allowed could be exceeded in any thing. Some discourse once took place concerning the height of Monsieur Lonis, the French giant, who measured six feet ten inches. "Tonnerre!" cried he, what a shrimp! Why, in my country, I knew a man so tall that he used positively to get up a ladder every morning to shave himself; he was a tall man if you like, "He never knew bat one man of that stature, and that he was a very long way off. My friend was elected, some years since, a member of the Royal Edinburgh Society" of Archers, and is an ornament to that distinguished corps. After all, I must in justice say, that Americans beat us all out of the field. Neither French, English, nor Irish, can compare with them in the use and practice of the long-bow, although I am aware that I risk giving offence to many notorious and skilful individuals. How does the incredulous cockney stare when he hears of the great sea serpent! He does not believe it, not he-he little knows it was an archer to whom the glory of the discovery is due. What can he know of monsters of the deep, except cod-fish and oysters in sauce! What can be know of the howling wilderness, unless it be Wilderness-row! What of roaring cataracts, save that of low water at London-bridge! He can form no idea of the trackless waste by that of Walworth and Newington Batts; or of interminable forests, by that of Epping. His scepticism, therefore, is no scandal; it requires an enlarged mind to comprehend the wonders of America, and to judge of the enterprise of archers by whom it has been explored. A very inge. nious friend of mine, and, curious enough, of the same name as myself, a native of Boston, and a splendid shot, has frequently astonished me with the exploits of American archers. He said, that once, when he went into Kentucky to witness a trial of skill, he stayed by the way at a public-honse, and observing in the room such an amount of broken ware, and equivocal marks, he was quite convinced knowing the savage nature of Kentuckian fighting, that a desperate and murderous affray had taken place there, He remarked the servant sweeping the floor, and putting the contents carefully into a basket. Rather surprised, he asked her what she was preserving with such care. “Oh "said the girl, “nothing very particular. only a few eyes. "Eyes?" inquired my friend. "You see," she said, "about fourteen gentlemen went home blind last night, so I was just picking up their eyes, 'cause the gentlemen, when they get sober, may be calling for 'hem, I guess!"

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Different ways of receiving favours.-Two of our boat's crew contrived to get embroiled with some Turks: neither party seemed to understand upon what point they differed; but differ they did, and one of our men seized a Turk by the turban, which he shortly dislodged, and then began to slap the bald head of the Mussulman: this created no small disturbance, and the affair terminated by the interference of the police, who seized two of our infidels and lodged them in a kind of gaol on the market-place I happened to pass, and was made to understand that something had occurred, and that our men were in durance vile. As I entered the place, I heard words much like unto the following:-" I say, Jack, what's that Turk going to do to you?"-" Damn me if I know," replied the other," but he seems to have taken a fancy to my shoes," I was just in time to see Jack thrown upon his back, and two stout Turks commence a regular hammering on the soles of his feet, with sticks resembling those carried by the janissaries. Jack roared in no common style, which seemed the astonishment and contempt of the Turks; for they stand the bastinado with apparent indifference,accounting it as much an honor as a punishment, though they seldom solicit a continuation of such favours. My interference was sufficient to liberate the men, who walked tenderly for about a week.

In Russia, after a man has been trashed for half an hour, it is by no means uncommon to see the poor miserable slave, crawl upon his hands and feet, kiss the shoes of his master, and then begin a long set speech, thanking the tyrant for the leniency of the punishment; confessing that he merited much more than had been inflicted, and finishing by calling upon God to bless so good and so mild a ruler. This is carrying civility rather too far; but the Russians are a conrteous nation, and far exceed the Turks in gratitude, at least on this score: it would have been a rich contrast to have heard "the curses pot loud but deep, "utterred by our men, and the very kind mild accents in which they devoted sultan, vizier, and populace to the especial care of the devil.

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