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nuances

ROBES-Plusieurs robes habillées, exécutées derniè. rement chez Victorine et chez Palmyre, étaient ouvertes sur le devant ou sur le côté du jupon. Des robes en velours, à corsages drapés et croisés sur la poitrine, avaient le jupon ouvert sur le côté, à partir de l'endroit aù s'arrêtait la draperie du corsage, comme pour figurer une redingote décolletée et drapée. Les deux côtés du jupon se joignait par des neuds ou des agrafes en pierreries. Quelques une des ces attaches étaient formées pas une double coque de ruban, séparée aụ milieu par une agrafe de perles ou de diamans, La même disposition d'ornemens se trouvait au-dessus de l'épaule, comme pour retenir les draperies. Les manches courtes à double sabot.

Cette même forme s'applique à des robes en satin damassé et toutes autres étoffes convenables aux grandes toilettes.

MANTEAUX.–Pour toilettes de visites, on remarque beaucoup de manteaux en riches étoffes, mais ayant un demi-aspect de douillettes ou vitchouras ; c'est-d-dire que la taille est serrée par une cordelière; que le grand collet, reculé un peu sur les épaules, dégage la poitrine, que les collets de velours marquent mieux la tournure, et qu'enfin ils ont de larges manches à paremens.

CoiffureS.-Au spectacle et dans les grandes soirées on ne voit plus de bérets. En revanche, force tur. bans, de petits chapeaux plus gracieux, plus coquets qu'aucun béret ne le fut jamais, et des petits bonnets en blonde, qui sont des modèles de légèreté et de fraicheur.

Les chapeaux les plus élégants, ont des formes rondes et assez évasées, ornées seulement de deux ou trois petites plumes. Nous en citerons un en velours grenat ayant un bouquet de trois petites plumes de la même nuance : deux s'élevaient et une retombait sur la passe. Les næuds étaient en ruban de gaze grenat hroché en jaune d'or. Un de ces rubans traversait le front et formait des nauds des deux côtés.

Un autre chapeau en satin blanc, orné de deux plumes blanches présentait une forme demi-capote un peu ronde, et ayant l'intérieur de la passe orné de blonde d'un dessin très léger, et disposée en touffes de chaque côté, comme la garniture d'un petit bonnet.

Un chapeau satin paille, orné d'une plume blanche, était de très-bon goût avec una redingote de velours uni.

Un chapeau de velours noir, passe ronde, sur laquelle retombait une seule plume noire dont les bords étaient couleur feu ; les rubans en gaze noire également liserés en couleur feu. Le fond de la forme formait des plis de ve lours pincés sur le côté et arrêtés sous un naud.

Quelques jeunes personnes portent des capotes en satin ruse, ornées d'un bouquet de hyacinthe rose.

On voit aussi des capotes en satin blanc, ornées d'un voile en blonde.

Bonnets.-Les bonnets en blonde pour toilette se portent extrêmement en arrière de la tête, ainsi

que chapeaux habillés, qui découvrent non-seulement le front mais encore une partie des cheveux. Les boppets ont leurs ornemens de Aenrs disposées avec un goût qui, quelquefois, leur donne tout l'aspect d'une coiffure de bal, et sied aussi bien que la plus jolie coiffure en cheveux. Une forme qui plaît beaucoup en ce moment, et a acquis un nonveau perfectionnement dans sa grâce et son élégance, est celle des bonnets à la Marie Stuart. Cette coupe est, sans contredit, une de celle qui conviennent le plus généralement, et que l'on voit adopter pour les spectacles et les soirées.

Les blondes s'emploient pour falbalas sur les jupons, que laissent voir les robes ouvertes. Des rangées de blonde posées en échelles depuis la ceinture jusqu'au bas du jupon, sont une des originalités qui ont le plus frappé jusqu'à présent. La robe dessus en riche étoffe, s'ouvrait de maniére à laisser voir parfaitement cette profusion de garniutres de blonde qui, du reste, allait parfai. tement bien à une grande femme.

Une jolie mode pour les toilettes de spectacle, est un mantelet de velours doublé en hermine. Ce mantelet a de longs bouts comme une pélerine en fourrures. Il se rejette en arrière des épaules, lorsqu'on est arrivé dans sa loge, et donne beaucoup de grâce à l'aspect d'une femme. En général, chacun peut adopter selon sa fantaisie, ces petits mantelets de bal et de speetacle. La mode les accepte tous.

Les turbans ont la vogue bien déterminée cet hiver. On en fait beaucoup en gaze noire ou brune brochée ou frappée en dessins d'or. D'autres en légére gaze blanche, mêlée avec de la gaze d'or ou d'argent. On en fait beaucoup en cachemire et en foulards de plusieurs

Ces derniers exigent une moins grande toilette. Sur les turbans gaze et or, on place à volonté un esprit ou un oiseau de paradis.

On emploie aussi pour cette coiffure des gazes blanches brochée, en or de diverses nuances. Une aigrette en pierreries les rend d'une très grande éléganoe.

On remarque que les robes sont plus décolletées que l'année passée. Les épaules et le dos surtout sont extrêmement découverts en grande toilette.

Les dessins si énormes et si riches qui distinguent les belles étoffes d'aujourd'hui, ne sont pas encore hardiment adoptés, et restent l'apanage des élégantes de grand style. La plus grande partie des femmes hésite à porter

les robes qui, par leur grand luxe même, se font aisément reconnaître à leur seconde et troisième apparition. et ont trop tôt le désavantage d'une robe connue. Nous voilà donc arrivés à ce point où il y aura une démarcation dans la toilette, et où la fortune donnera de grandes prérogatives à l'élégance. Il n'en était pas ainsi au tems des simples robes de crêpe et de gaze.

Les petits chapeaux retroussés d'un côté, et ornés d'une ou deux plumes blanches, sont nombreux, charmans et siéent parfaitement à toutes les femmes. On en fait en velours violet, marron, rouge, vert. Ils n'ont point de brides, et se posent fort en arrière de la tête.

Aujourd'hui aux robes et redingotes de promenade, les manches se font plus amples sur l'avant-bras, le poignet haut de quatre doigts est seul juste, mais à partir de ce poignet, la manche prend de suite une ampleur excessive.

La blonde que l'on emploie pour garnir le devant des bonnets doit-être à dessins très-légers, et la maille exces. sivement claire. Les fleurs sont en petit nombre, de couleur pâle ou blanc-rosé, une guirlande jacinthes roses très påles, peut se porter avec une robe bleue ou une

les

robe rouge.

Les bouquets de main sont arrivés à un point de recherche qui passe la fantaisie ; au milieu on place cinque ou six camélias qui s'élèvent en pyramide, mêlés de feuillage ver; tout autour, des violettes, de la bruyère ou de petites fleurs de serre. Ces bouquets se pla. cent dans un petit cornet en or de bijouterie qui tient à un anneau par une chaîne, de manière à pouvoir laisser tomber le bonquet, et il reste suspendu à sa main.

MISCELLANEA.

The Sources of the Title. I have drawn np an inquiry into the history of our modern Baronetage in this manuer, which may one day see the light. It will mortify the pride and vanity of some of our most offensive nobility The scale of pre. eminence may be drawn with perfect accuracy, afier lying down certain principles, which scarcely any one will dispute. I myself thoronghly believe that such work will be found full of both political and 'moral instruction, illustrative of the charac. ter of the govegnment, as well as the manners of the nation. No doubt, niany powerful people are interested in setting both themselves and others against snch discussion. Many cry“ It is sufficient that I am a duke, or a marquis, or an earl; aud what a ponsense it is to rip op old times." They think themselves like an old carriage new painted and varuished; and that it is unfair to take notice of the coat beneath, or the put. tied lioles made smooth, and covered over with the fresli co. lour But sich forbearance is a sort of candour which encouges corruption and baseness. The purest stimulant to disinte. rested and tohle actions is a virtuous love of fame. To allow such disguises to be successful, would tend to cloud and obliterate all the distinctions of a just renown.

The Beaver.-So little is known of the manners of the beaver in a domesticated state, that we feel a peculiar gratifi. cation in having it in our power to give the extremely inte. resting history of an individual which belonged to Mr. Brode. rip, to whose kindness we are indebted for the following state. ment:~" The animal arrived in this country in the winter of 1825, very young, being small and woolly, and without the covering of long hair, which marks the adult beaver. It was the sole survivor of five or six which were shipped at the same time, and it was in a very pitiable condition. Good treatment quickly restored it to health, and kindness soon made it ta. miliar. When called by the name · Bion,' it generally answered wilh a little cry, and came to its owner. The hearth. rug was iis favourite haunt, and thereon it would lie stretched out, sometimes on iis back, sonjetimes on its side, and some. times flat on its belly, but always near its master. The build. inz instinct showed itself immediately it was let out of its cage, and materials were placed in its way; and this before it had been a week in its new quarters. Iis strengili

, even before it was balf grown, was great. It would drag along a large sweeping-brush or a warming pan, grasping the handle with its teeth; so that the load came over its shonider, and advancing in an oblique direction till it arrived at the point where it wished to place it. The long and large materials were always taken first, and two of the longest were generally laid crosswise, with one of the ends of each touching the wall, and the other ends projecting out into the room. The area formed by the cross bushes and the wall he would fill up with baud. brushes, rush baskets, books, boots, sticks, cloths, dried turf, or any thing portable. As the work giew highi, he snpported himself on his tail, which propped up admirably; and he would otten, after laying on one of his building materials, sit up over against it, appearing to consider his work or, as the country people say, judge it,' This pause was sometimes followed by changing the position of the material judged,' and sometimes it was left in its place. After be bad piled up his materials in one pait of the room (tor he generally chose the same place), he proceeded to wail op the space between the teet of a chest of drawers, which stood at a little distance from it, high enough on its legs to make the bottom a roof for him, using for this purpose dried tort and sticks, which be laid very even, and filling np the interstices with bits of coal, hay, cloth, or any thing he could pick up. This last place he seemed to appro. priate for his dwelling; the former work seemed to be intended for a dam. When he had walled up the space between the feet of the chest of drawers, he proceeded to carry in sticks. cloths, bay, cotton, and to make a nest; and when he had done, he would sit up under the drawers and comb himself with the nails of his hind feet, In this operation, that which appeared at first to be a malformation, was shown to be a beautiful adaptation to the necessities of the animal. The huge webbed hind feet of the beaver turn in so as to give the ap. pearance of deformity; but if the toes were straight instead of being incurved, the animal could not use them for the pur. pose of keaping its fur in order, and cleancing it from dirt and moisture. – Binny generally carried small and light articles

between his right fore leg and his chin, walking on the other three legs : and large masses, which he could not grasp rea. dily with his teeth, he pushed forwards, leaning against them with his right fore paw and his chin. He never carried any thing on his tail, which he liked to dip in water; but he was not fond of plunging in the whole of his body. If his tail was kept moist, he never cared to drink ; but if it was kept dry, it became hot, and the animal appeared distressed, and would drink a great deal. It is not impossible that the tail may have the power of absorbing water, like the skin of frogs, ihongh it must be owned that the scaly integument which invests that member has not much of the character which generally belongs to absorbing surfaces. Bread, and bread and milk, and sugar, fornied the principal part of Binny's food ; but he was very fond of succulent fruits and roots. He was a most entertain. ing creature, and some highly comic scenes occurred between the worthy, but slow beaver, and a light and airy macauco, that was kept in the same apartment. An animal so sociable in his habits ought to be affectionate ; and very affectionale the beaver is said to be. Drage mentions two young ones which were taken alive, and brought to a neighbouring fac. tory in Hudson's Bay, where they throve very fast until one of them was killed accidentally. The survivor instantly telt the loss, began to moan, and abstained from food till it died. Mr. Bullock mentioned to the narrator a similar instance which fell under his police in North America. A male and female were kept together in a room, where they lived happily till the male was deprived of his partner by death. For a day or two he appearod to be hardly aware of his loss, and bronght food and laid it before her : at last, finding that she did not stir, be covered her body with twigs and leaves, and was in a pining state when Mr. Bullock lost sight of him.”The Gar. dens aıd Menagerie of the Zoological Society de ineated.

Tea. Drinking.-It has been said, that a physician, celebrated for his treatment of the insane (Dr. Burrows), used to express it as his opinion, that he owed half his practice to China tea; and many regard the habit of drinking it as highly injurious to the vervous system. We verily believe, that the dreadful cohort of constitutional derangements, which, being below the grade of nosological disorders, pass under ine general deno. mination of NERVOUS AILMENTS, has been increased by the custom of tea-drinking; and that our frames generally are more hardy, " the less we habituate them to any species of excitation that does not nourish as well as stimulate. Among the poor of the metropolis we are sorry to see the custom so generally prevail of taking tea at almost all times of the day; since the temporary stimulus that it gives is followed by that sort of relaxation of nerve, and depression of spirit which in. duces the consumer of it ló resort to a stili more reprehensible and baneful custom, viz , that of taking ardent and raw spirits -a practice, respecting the mischiets of which tbere can be no room to doubi. We deprecare, likewise, the custom of introducing young persons to the tea--able. The later in life the babit becomes established the beller. Tea-drinking to chil. dren and youths is both positively and negatively injurious.Dr. Uwins on Digestion

Moral Cowardice.-There are two sorts of timidity which we must distinguisb- the one affecting the operations of the intel. lect, and the other the outward conduct. A man may have little anxiety as to whether he please or displease his fellowcreatures; he may have no eager ibirst for their applause, no paralysing apprehensions of their opprobation; he may not care about perilling honours or profits by an honest religious pro. fession: he may even dety obloquy and persecution : and yet be as arrant an intellectual coward as ever existed, afraid of venturing, in speculation, an inch from the beaten track; afraid of examining either the basis or building of his faith, and touching either its pillars or its ornaments; afraid of losing sight of his priest, lesi he should be mazed in a wilderness of doubt; afraid of a new opinion, a new thought, or a new book, if it wear a questionable shape. In others the symptoms are di. rectly opposite : they read, examine, reflect, decide, and re. ject with free iom and courage; but their freedom and courage end; and when they should proceed to protes“, to attack the eror they bave revounced, to promulgate, the truth they have embraced, they become mere slaves and cowards. They are atraid of the frowns of the great ; afraid of injuring their worldly circumstances; afraid of foi teising a station in which they may be very useful; and, more justly than all, afraid that they are not the tirm and zealous per sous w bo can consistently lell it.-Scrmon by J. W. Fox,

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A SPANISH TALE.

THE LOVERS OF LEGANEZ.

Don Manoel reposed the utmost confidence in the care and discretion of Donna Rodriga.

From the tenderest infancy of Lusia she had credi. Not many leagues from Leganez was situated the tably, if not affectionally, supplied the place of her country seat of Don Manoel de Uzeda. He had scarcely mother, who died ere her young heart's affections had passed his fiftieth year, and still exhibited in his speech learned to recognize her maternal love and solicitude. and manners the elegance and air of a gay and accom- What was passing strange in the character of a Spaplished cavalier; one who had seen the world, and nish female, (more especially those of the middling knew the enjoyment of its most refined pleasures. class,) the duenna's was free, even from the very sus

He had tasted them without satiety, and, indeed, with picion of a single intrigue; to be sure, Nature had not 80 much moderation, that although half a century had been very bountiful to her in the disposition of her passed over his head, and tended somewhat to abate the features or her form, for she was very plain, (to say the ardour of his pursuit, pleasure still found him in the best of her,) and, over and above a high shoulder, was motley train of her devoted worshippers. At court- trilingly warped in the back, yet she was by no means at the theatre—the Prado-or, in fine, wherever, nobi. crooked in her temper, displaying on all occasions an lity, fashion, and beauty, were congregated, Don Ma- amiable equanimity. noel was invariably recognized.

Such was the gouvernante of Donna Luisa, and happy With an ample and unimpared fortune, and a dispo. was the maiden under her gentle sway. sition so gaily inclined, it may be naturally supposed No wonder then that the little Arragonese, Francisca, that he rarely visited his country seat at Leganez. dilated her large black eyes, when Donna Luisa, pouting

True, Madrid was the only atmosphere which he con- her rosy lips, confidentially complained that Donna sidered worth inhaling, or capable of supporting his Rodriga de Cantillana had become teazingly curious of existence.

late, following and prying after her with all her eyes,' But his country seat was a sanctum, the repository of as she said, of which organs, however, the impertinent his heart's jewel, his beloved daughter, Luisa.

duenna possessed only two. She was his only child, and had just attained her • Ha! Signora, cried Francisca, with an insinuating fifteenth year, yet so precocious in wit, beauty, and the look of sympathy,'' wherefore should Cantillana plague enchanting fullness and symmetry of her person, that you so? What can she suspect ?' By the Virgin!' ejashe appeared already to have arrived at womanhood, culated she, with a lack-a-daisical sigh, ' there's no fear

Dance and song were personified in her light and of one's being blessed with any lovers in this horrid, airy step, and the silver tones of her dulcet voice. out-of-the-way place!'

Don Manoel loved his daughter, and admired her • Heigho!' cried Donna Luisa, blushing a little, accomplishments, but was persuaded, from the experi- • does the old woman imagine we can pick beaux from ence of his youth, that the pure air of Leganez was the bushes, as we do our bouquets ?' Heaven send we more conducive to her benefit and pleasure, than that of could !' continued Francisca glibly; at the same time the capital.

shrewdly watching the changing countenance of her He therefore consigned his treasure to this elegant young and less experienced mistress, · Hah! Signora, retreat till he could provide her with a rich and noble there is-yes-I see it! something has happened! partner, who might, if he chose, chaperon her in the • Hush!' cried the confused Luisa, * don't talk so gay circles of the great world. But he was resolved loud, Francisca ; Rodriga may overhear you. Let's to never to run the risk of losing Luisa by leading her the bower,' and the self-convicted maiden put her into the giddy whirlpool of fashion, coquetry, and in- trembling arm within Francisca's, and hurried her away trigue,

with the utmost trepidation. Meanwhile, Donna Luisa felt no sorrow in the de- • Oh! I was so disturbed the other night,' began privation of enjoyments she had never tasted, and, in Luisa, as soon as they had seated themselves on the the walled garden, were she daily rambled with her mossy bank of the bower. · With the tink-a-tink of a guitar, singing in concert with the feathery choir that guitar?' said Francisca, inquiringly. • Didst thou hear warbled in the orange trees and the gurgling fountains, it Francisca ?' • How could I avoid it, Signora, it was seemed as joyous and light-hearted as a canary (that just below my window; I declare, I could not get a hath never known the freedom of the leafy grove), at- wink the whole night.' • What I fear is, that Cantiltuning its little throat in its gay prison of golden wires. lana overheard it too~that is, I don't fear-but I

Donna Rodriga de Cantillana, (a decayed gentle Oh, I perfectly understand you, Signora,' replied woman, and a distant relative of the family,) and a Francisca, smiling, `really these duennas are as wakelittle bright-eyed Arragonese wench, by name Fran- ful and watchful as tabbies, and gallants and guitars cisca, were the only companions of her lone retreat. are their bane. Did you see anything, Signora? Did The one served her in the capacity of duenna, the other you peep through the lattice?' • Yes, yes, I only just as tire-woman.

peeped! And what did you see ?' A shadowNO, XXXIX. VOL. IV.

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