of Italian straw we observed, trimmed with white ribbon of large pattern, and on the side a bouquet of three roses, yellow, rose-coloured, and deep brown, with a green sprig or two. Turbans of plain transparent tulle are much admired; having, instead of a continuation of the tulle, entre deux of muslin, rose-coloured lining, one crossing the front to break the uniformity. MATERIALS AND COLOURS.---One of the newest, and perhaps most useful colours, from its combining so well in effect with most other colours, is grey, it has been pretty generally adopted in the promenade for demi-toilettes: It is a tinge between a dusky grey and a blue, bright green is probably among the only colours with which it disagrees. The poussière du desert (dust of the desert), is also frequently made choice of for negligées silk dresses, a delicate rose-coloured capote sets this off very well. This colour is also used for hats, but it should be lined with rose, and very simply trimmed. VARIETIES.---Printed gros de Naples shawls of a very light texture are now very much worn. Others of gros de Naples, in checks of two shades, seem to divide patronage with the printed chalis. Umbrellas, à la mode are, many of them, in de pou soie, decorated with various designs more or less varied, the ground generally white or of some very pale colour. Some wear them even painted with landscapes or flowers. Real flowers are very much worn in the hair, particularly out of doors, at fètes champêtres, &c.; these, placed tastefully (to be on the safe side they should be used sparingly), give an inexpressible charm to the youthful countenance. MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES. PUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES. COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT: "Le Follet, Courrier des Salons”-'..." Le Petit Courrier des Dames”'.." La Mode"--" Journal des Dames" &c. &c. MODES.-Le caractére principal de la mode est l'inconstance; amante coquette, elle retire ses faveurs aussi égèrement qu'elle les accorde; ce qui lui déplaisait hier, elle en raffole aujourd'hui. 'est par suite de ce caractère changeant qu'elle adopte aujourd'hui les couleurs. foncées pour les rubans destinés à garnir les chapeaux de paille de riz, et qu'elle abandonne presqu'entièrement le rose et le blanc, couleurs qui semblent si fraîches aux premiers jours du printemps. maison Hocquet, était en paille de riz, forme un peu moins longue des joues que la plupart des chapeaux d'aujourd'hui, évasé et garni avec un ruban de gros de Naples nué de blanc, vert chou et vert myrthe: Il était orné d'une rose unique, à calice vert, placée presqu'au milieu de la calotte; un seul noeud semblable à un nœud de cravate, était posé auprès de la fleur; sous la passe, de la blonde et des fleurs roses, blanches et vertes mélangées. Les bonnets, pour les déjeuners dansant, se font toujours en blonde-dentelle ; mais les blondes nouvelles, au lieu d'être totalement droites comme celles de l'hiver dernier, commencent a se détacher en dents fort peu marquées. Ces bonnets s'ornent quelquefois de marobouts panachés. La toilette adoptée par les jeunes personnes élégantes pour las bals de jours, se compose d'une robe de batiste blanche ou d'organdi à petits pois blancs et brodée de mille couleurs; la coiffure en bandeaux, uh bouquet de fleurs naturelles, et au lieu d'écharpe, un grand ruban large de gros de Naples, broché de mille nuances; des bas de fil d'Ecosse tout-à-fait unis et remarquable par leur finesse; enfin, des souliers de gros de Naples noirs. On observe que les femmes en voiture, celles qui ne suivent pas la mode et la donnent, que les femmes les plus élégantes, disons-nous, font incliner les robes en arrière, pour obtenir une apparence des traines que portaient nos mères. Les robes longues à cette époque, donnaient à la démarche une gravité que nous retrouvons aujourd'hui. Les grands éventails anciens forcent aussi les mouvemens à une lenteur qui n'est pas sans charme; si c'est une affaire de goût, nous nous bornerons ici à dire que la bonne grâce de la tournure et des manières gagne à tout se qui est mesuré; mais ci c'est une mode à son aurore, nous nous empresserons d'être les premiers à la singaler et à la proclamer. Un genre simple adopté pour les mouchoirs de poche est une rivière de points à jours, large comme le doigt, sans aucune broderie; ce que nous avons remarqué de fort élégant dans un riche trousseau sont deux lignes ou deux rivières de jours, au-dessus de chacune desquelles se place une valenciennes haute de trois doigts. Une nouvelle façon de capotes froncées a obtenu le plus grand succès. Les formes très-delicates soutiennent si merveilleusement la passe, qu elle ne peut pas plus se déformer que les passes montées sur doublure; quelques-unes de celles que nous avons vues étaient garnies de ruches découpés, ce qui est plus doux au visage que les ruches de ruban. Une autre forme du soir, qui va parfaitement aux lumières, est en tulle froncé, avec des rubans de taffetas passés dans les coulisses; tout autour de la passe est un double boullion en tulle, qui bouffe légèrement, c'està-dire figure un peu la ruche et n'est pas aplati comme les bias de crêpe lisse. reVoici un mot de détail sur une autre qui était en tulle avec des coulisses roses, ayant sous la passe un tour de tête bouillonné, au mileu duquel étaient piquées de petites fleurs roses en grappes légères; sur la forme un très-simple nœud, qui retenait au milieu d'un bouillon de tulle une longue grappe rose. On pose principalement sur les chapeaux de paille les fleurs d'ébénier, d'acacia, des roses mousseuses, des fleurs de pêcher et du spiréa entremêlé de boutons de roses; les fleurs des champs forment aussi de charmans bouquets sur les chapeaux de paille d'Italie ou de paille consue anglaise. Les chapaux de paille de riz que nous avons marqués dans les premières maisons de la capitale, sont garnis de rubans bleu barbeau foncé et ornés de plumes de la même couleur; d'autres sont vert bronze ornés de plumes bronze. Nous en avous vu quelques-une remarquables par leur bisarrerie; ils étaient aussi en paille de riz, garnis de rubans écrus et ornés de deux plumes écrues et d'une troisième plume rose: les rubans gros vert, accompagnés de plumes de même nuance, sont également bien employés. Un fort joli chapeau que nous avons aperçu à la Fête de Nuit de Tivoli, et que nous savons sortir de la -Quelques modistes ont confectionné dernièrement des turbans en organdi brodé en soie de coleur, qui conviennent parfaitement à la saison, lorsqu'on est obligé de porter une coiffure habillée. Pour tenir lieu de bonnets de blonde, on orne de fleurs les points d'Angleterre. Les fleurs sont trèsdélicates; on les place en petits bouquets descendant de chaque côté des joues, ou en deux demi-guirlandes séparées au milieu du front. Quelques-uns sont aussi élégans qu'une coiffure de bal. Un cordon de fleurs forme deux fois le tour de la tête, et est séparé au milieu par une garniture de points qui se termine par deux barbes descendant de chaque côté. Le fond du bonnet est à jour, de manière à ce que le second cordon de fleurs entoure la natte. - On met aussi des couronnes de roses effeuillées sous la garniture des petits bonnets en point; ces couronnes soutiennent la garniture en auréole autour du front. On fait des turbans en tulle uni trés-clair, ayant, au lieu de chef, des entre-deux de mousseline brodée doublés en rose. Un de ces entre deux traverse le front, afin de corriger ce que le blanc mat aurait de trop froid à la physionomie. -Les batistes d'Ecosse imprimées remplacent les jaconas pour les toilettes négligées. Les fonds blancs sont préférés. Une robe de mousseline des Indes était brodée au plumetis dans les dispositions suivantes : deux rangées de bouquets formant tablier de chaque côté du jupon, et grandissant progressivement vers le bas ; des bouquets, placées en chevrons sur des manches très-larges, et une double pélerine, la première entourée de bouquets, et la seconde couverte entièrement de bouquets, diminuant vers le cou. -Le luxe de la chaussure a aussi ses gradations selon l'heure de la journée. En sortant du lit, on met des pantoufles en petits points, des bas en fil d'Ecosse; pour la toilette du déjeûner, des pantoufles en satin ou autre tissu brodé, soit en soie, en or, et bas à jour; pour la promenade, des bottines en peau anglaise, pou-de-soie, drap de soie, &c. ; et enfin pour le costume de salon, les souliers en pou de soie ou gros de Naples, dans les nuances qui vont avec celles de la toilette. beaucoup de souliers gris, verts, violets. nes, pour les nouer, sont toujours très-etroits. On voit Les cothur plunge the unfortunate peripatetic in deep mud. A visit to Lord Byron was our first step on landing his abode was a tolerable house close to the part of the beach most convenient for landing or going afloat. It had, for the place, great prétention, and was approached by a gateway opening into a little miry court-yard, surrounded by a wall, with some small offices on one side. The principal and only tolerable room was approached by an outward stair. Three sides were furnished with sofas in the Turkish taste. A deal shelf, apparently stuck against the wall, was loaded with books; the floor was encumbered with packing-cases, some nailed down, some opened; the latter filled with books, as, I took for granted, were the former. Round the walls were appended to numerous nails and pegs, fowling-pieces and pistols of various descriptions and nations; sabres and yataghans. The corridor or antichamber, or whatever else it might be termed, swarmed with Mainotes and others, armed to the teeth. We were ushered in by Tita, his Lordship's chasseur, who reminded me of the French Sapeurs, as he wore a bushy beard, with his livery, which was set off by two silver epaulettes. He was an immense fellow, upwards of six feet in height, and although well-proportioned for such a herculean figure, his frame was too large and heavy, for his stature to come within the description of elegant. His page was a young Greek, dressed as an Albanian or Mainote, with very handsomely chased arms in his girdle, his maître d'hôtel, or fac-totum, an honest looking, though not elastic Northumbrian, named Fletcher, who seemed, and doubtless with reason, a great favourite with his master. "On sitting down to dinner, which, to deliver us from the plague or pestilence, was set on a deal table, with out the intervention of a cloth, he laughingly apologised for his table, which, from the circumstances wherein he was then placed, was not, as he said, trop bien montée; but he felt the less annoyed when he reflected that men of our profession understood those things, and were of course prepared for all sorts of privations. He then bustled about, actively assisted by Fletcher, who was but poorly aided by the Greek menials in placing the dishes to the best advantage, drawing corks, and all the et cætera of the table. To dispose the table was rendered a service of some difficulty by its compendiousness. On opening a bottle of wine, and inspecting the complexion of its contents, his lordship questioned Fletcher as to its name and lineage. 'I really don't know, my lord,' was the reply. Then away with it,' he rejoined;-'I hate anonymous wine.' TO GERALDINE. Seest thou yon rose, that in deep richness blowing, Seest thou yon star in the fair heaven gleaming What in the mighty worlds of earth or ocean, Thine image, Geraldine can bring to me? Dearest! my spirit filled with deep devotion Bends before all,—but worships only THEE! MISCELLANEA. The cause of rain is thus accounted for by Hutton and Dalton. If two masses of air, of unequal temperatures, are, when saturated with vapour, intermixed by the ordinary currents of the winds, a precipitation ensues. If the masses are under saturation, then less precipitation takes place, or none at all, according to the degree. Also, the warmer the air, the greater is the quantity of vapour precipitated in like circumstances. Hence the reason why rains are heavier in summer than in winter, and in warni countries than in cold.-Loudon's Encyclopedia of Gardening. At a late meeting of the Academy of Medicine in Paris, M. Velpean exhibited a man who posseses the very singular power of making himself two inches taller, or shorter, at will. Standing erect, he can elongate the spine, and contract it again, by moving the sacrum, which plays like a wedge between the bones of the pelvis. He is at present forty years of age, and had a carriage pass over his body when a child, to the injury received at which time the power of executing this curious manœuvre may be attributed,-Medical Gazette. Mrs. Siddons's First Appearance on the Stage.-I am unable to state the exact date of Mrs. Siddons's first appearance on the stage, but it must have been very early; for the company was offended at her appearance of childhood, and was for some time shaken with uproar. The timid debutante was about to retire, when her mother, with characteristic decision, led her to the front of the stage, and made her repeat the table of the "Boys and Frogs," which not only appeased the audience, but produced thunders of applause. At thirteen, she was the heroine in several English operas, and sang very tolerably. In the History of Worcester there is found the copy of a play-bill, dated Feb. 12, 1726, in which Mr. Roger Kemble announces his company of comedians as playing at the King's Head, in that city; with a concert of music The play was Churles the First, by an actor named Havard, indifferently written, and, from its subject, ill calculated for the universal sympathy of a British audience.—Campbell's Life of Mrs. Siddons. A Day in the formal Country-House.-After breakfast we assemble around the great work-table: one knits, one knots; one threads beads into tawdry bracelets and necklaces; another-Lady Abnott generally-I was going to say reads, but rather holds a book in her hands, or perhaps listlessly reads a page or two to herself, seldom loud, then nicely puts down the book on its leaves; but recollecting that is not correct, takes it up, and more properly moves the marker; then looks, or wonders what o'clock it is; wonders whether it will be rain or fine, and goes or sends one of the girls to the window to see. Then the work is taken up again, or by some of them put away for flower-drawing, which is continued for perhaps half an hour; or if Lady Abnott should go to her room, one or other of the girls opens the pianoforte, strikes a chord, or touches a few notes; and we have miserable song after song, or piece after piece, without life, yet without cessation! Lady Abbott returns to restore order again. She generally sits at a little distance from the table, as if to seem a little more formal; soon after eleven she thinks it must be luncheon-time, but discovering it will not arrive for two hours yet, she com. poses herself to her knotting again; or, perhaps, drawing nearer the table, takes up in succession the boxes of beads, or worsteds, to look at; yawns, and puts them down again, makes some pithy remark, or asks some question about the beads, or the silk, or the worsted or the work!"—"What do such people do with their intellects?" asked Jocelyne.-" Play at cards with them," replied Miss Micklethwaite. "Lady Abnott and Miss Abnott are both very acute card-players.""But go on with your day,” said Ellenor.—“Well, one o'clock sounds, and luncheon at last arrives. How glad we all are! and if the day be rainy, we very slowly eat and very slowly sip, to lengthen the time: it fine we are quicker, for we then go out; but often slowly saunter about the house for an hour or two; for Lady Abnott and Miss Abnott think it quite proper the girls should keep near the house, that callers may join them, or that they may go in again to them. Sometimes Charlotte and 1 contrive to get away to a distance, or to our rooms, but we are usually expected to be near or with the rest. The sound of the dressing-bell and dinner-bell are commonly welcome sounds to us, especially if anybody arrives who will talk, or cause talk, and sometimes the young men-Abnotts are there. If not, dinner is always less dull than breakfast, for though Sir Thomas and Lady Abnott are always formal, yet there is more to do."-" When we go to the drawingroom, Lady Abnott places herself in a corner of the sofa, and, notwithstanding her propriety, often falls asleep. The girls stand over the fire, if winter, or look through the windows, if summer, or loll on the sofas too And then Sir Thomas joins us, and says where he has been in the morning, and where he means to go to-morrow; and when tea comes, and that over, one of the girls plays a little stupid music; or, Sir Thomas and Lady Abnott, and two of the elder girls, sit down to the card-table; and the rest of us talk in an under voice, or read to ourselves, as we can, or count the spots on the square. patterned carpet, or listen to the winds in the woods,-or to the barking of the dogs in the stable-yard, or to the clicking of the clock on the chimney-piece, till it strikes eleven,-the glad sound of liberty!-and most gladly do we take our can. dles, and depart to our own rooms."-"What a life!" exclaimed Joscelyne; "why, if I were there, I should be dead! But I would set fire to the house! that would make them stir a little! Oh how I should like to see those dull, stately Abnotts flying and skipping about in all directions, like parched peas, or automatons breaking their wires!"-"The last Sir Thomas and Lady Abnott, I have heard, would never suffer their children to smile in their presence!" said Mrs. Battlebrigg.-" And the present Sir Thomas and Lady Abnott think it very inde. corous for any body to laugh heartily, or to express anything the least emphatically!" added Miss Micklethwaite; "and look so astonished if they hear a word or an opinion beyond common place."-English Scenes and English Civilization. two. - Absurd images are sometimes irresistible. I will inention An elephant in a coach-office gravely coming to have his trunk booked; a mermaid over a fish-kettle cooking her own tail. Athenæum Manners. On the continent every child, almost before he learns his alphabet, before he is able even to crack a whip, is taught what is termed in Europe civility; a trifling example of which I witnessed this very morning. At nearly a league from Langen-Schwaibach, I walked up to a little boy who was fly. ing a kite on the top of a hill, in the middle of a field of oat stubble. I said not a word to the child-scarcely looked at him-but as soon as I got close to him, the little village clod, who had never breathed anything thicker than his native air, actually almost lost string, kite, and all, in an effort, quite irrisistible, which he made to bow to me, aud take off his hat.. Again, in the middle of the forest, I saw the other day three labouring boys laughing together, each of their mouths being, if possible, wider open than the others; however, as they separated, off went their caps, and they really took leave of each other in the very same sort of manner with which I yesterday saw the Langrave of Hesse Homburg return a bow to a common postilion. It is this general, well founded, and acknowledged system which binds together all together all classes of society. It is this useful, sensible system, which enables the master of the Allée Saal, as he walks about the room during dinner-time, occasionally to converse with the various descriptions of guests who have honoured his table with their presence; for, however people in England would be shocked at such an idea, on the continent, so long as a person speaks and behaves correctly, he need not fear to give any one offence.-Now, in England, as we all know, we have all sorts of manners, and a man actually scarcely dares to say which is the true idol to be worshipped. We have very noble aristocratic manners; we have the short, stumpy manners of the old-fashioned English country gentlemen ;-we have sick, dandified manners;-black-stock military manners ;-" your free and easy manners" (which by the by on the continent, would be translated “no manners at all.") We have the ledger manners of a steady man of business;-the last-imported monkey or ultra-Parisian manners-manners not only of a school-boy, but of the particular school to which he belongs ;--and, lastly, we have the parti-coloured manners of the mobility, who, until they were taught the contrary, very falsely flattered themselves that on the throne they would find the "ship-a-hoy!" manners of a " true British sailor."-Bubbles from the Brun nens of Nassau. |