« PreviousContinue »
FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES
per and middling ranks may be said to assimilate more corsage close fitting, and calculated to show a good closely than on many former occasions ; owing, proba- shape to the greatest advantage. The folds of the bly, in a great degree, to the infinite variety of light jupon à double crevés. Sleeves long and large, and fabrics worn, and the diversity of taste that is now gathered in three folds on the shoulder. About eight more than usually shown in individual fancy, than in a widths is requisite for this dress. presiding mode. The Balls of Ranelagh and Sceaux, A very effective ball dress was observed, at the the Concerts of the Champs Elysées, and of the Jardin “ Theatre Italien," consisting of a robe d'Angleterre Turk, the more than ordinary splendour of the Fêtes over a pale blue taffeta, raised to the knee, and held by at the Gardens of Tivoli, with a number of other a pale Chinese rose; in the hair and sleeves were arsources of amusement of a similar nature, make Paris, ranged Chinese roses, for biouterie, and turquoises on at this period, a focus of attraction to those whom the black enamel. unsophisticated charms of the country are not sufficient Mousseline d'Inde embroidered in gold or trimmed to draw away from the capital—to others who yet linger with lace organdis embroidered with silk, and robes before their departure to their rural chateaux-or the d'Angleterre, or point de Bruxelles have seemed to take vast accession of foreigners, who throng to mingle in the lead among our elegantes as ball toilets. the Parisian gaieties. It is in the public gardens and A very beautiful effect was produced by a rose-colored promenades that the stranger must now take note of the pou de soie, and Brussels point over, held up on each toilets of the fashionable ; but it may be a useful hint side by rose buds and primroses. to those whose taste is unequivocally good, that they Hats, Bonnets, &c.---The Italian straws which are may, to a great extent, set the fashion for themselves so beautiful and generally becoming are still favorites, in the Parisian Metropolis.
A. de C. and are worn even larger than before.
Blond and lace hats since the weather has shown
itself so decidedly fine, are worn to a great extent, LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. bouquets and light garlands generally ornament them.
The Italian straw hats though generally larger than
formerly may yet be considered more subject to indiviINCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM
dual caprice, than many of the other sorts of fabric;
fine straws are adorned very frequently and with a very “ Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-"Journal de Paris
pretty effect, with white feathers and ribbons of emet des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'Indiscret”-“ Le Follet Courrier des Salons"_" Le
broidered pou de soie.
In the magazines of the first consequence, the hats Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.
particularly of Italian straw are seen larger than ever, We have seen a great variety of foulard dresses, of and the crowns straight and high. large and magnificent designs with canezous of muslin For young persons, the following is becoming, richly embroidered and deeply edged with lace.
paille de riz, ornamented with a simple ribbon of white An elegant promenade dress is made from Scotch taffetas doubling round the crown, and forming a næud gros de Naples, brown, yellow, and blue checks. Ac
on the side. Under the front a little blond ruche form. companying this, a point d'Alençon mantilla, and ing a cap, terminated on each side by little bouquets Italian dress hat, adorned with white feathers, look of china-asters. Also capotes à coulises, in rose-colored well.
taffetas, with white glacé, with rose or blue crape lined Many white muslin or organdi dresses have pelerines with embroidered organdi or tulle ; and a point or tulle embroidered or trimmed with lace.
veil. India muslin is also very suitable for these Redingotes are for the most part worn high, flat, capotes. the sleeves larger, frocéns at the bottom. Pelerines MATERIALS AND COLORS.—The sylphide with an about the same size as usual, some à pointes, or round- embroidered lining is much worn from its extreme coned behind and open before.
venience it being suitable for almost every description Redingotes of jaconas are closed by neuds, at equal of apparel whether for the ball-room, the sitting, or the distances or simply by a pli, sometimes the under dress
promenade. is closed merely under the ceinture so as to leave the For demi-toilet, the damas écossais is much used. dress open all the way down and expose the under dress Green and white embroidered pou de soie forms a of fine percale, which is frequently embroidered charming summer dress. trimmed with valencienne, this may be rose-coloured, Of Pekins, a great variety is now used of which as straw, or lilac colored gros de Naples, when the redin- the most distingués the following may be enumerated. gote is very elegant.
Pekins embroidered couleur sur couleur, designs A redingote in organdi embroidered on plumetis, on à ramages. each side of the jupon garlands of carnations disposed Pekins chinés with rose on turquoise-colored ground, en bran debourgs, and diminish gradually towards the flowers of the natural color, in serpentine garlands. ceinture, at intervals of about nine inches, the sides The Pekins brochés pincautis, as its name imports, united by ribbon noeuds of taffeta, rose glacé en blanc ; both embroidered in silk, and touched afterwards with a pelerine, square edges with deep lace, sleeves large, the pencil. fronces at the wrist, round which is a ribbon tied in the
For a grotesque fancy costume we have seen a foumanner of a bracelet. A hat of paille-de-riz, adorned
lard well adapted, the ground was black, and covered with a moss rose under the front, with buds of the
with designs of tulips and roses larger than one's hand. moss rose reclining on each side.
Boots grey, gloves
This pattern with ground of every variety of shade, of pearl grey
may be had also in the jaconas imprimés A Pekin dress deep color, sprinkled with bouquets, We have seen some uncommonly pretty specimens of Scotch flannel ginghams; amid the more tender shadows celle lapis! une robe de pou de soie ou de mousseline there was a square of a very light tint, in which a small de cette couleur, ce qui est très rare, est un négligè fort white flower was visible.
galant; presque tous les chapeaux de paille d'Italie For ball dresses, crape; India muslin; organdes &c. qui, au commencement de la saison, étaient garnis de hare been much nsed.
rubans gros grains de diverses nuances, se dégarnissent Pou de soie is not only one of the most approved pour recevoir du ruban de gros de Naples lapis ; les fabrics for hats, but also for full dress.
plus coquets sont garnis de rubans gros grains écossaisThe predominating shades are generally light. lapis et vert saule.
The foulard de Bruxelles from its very pretty glosssy Nous avons remarqué au bois de Boulogne deux ou appearance, and the advantage of its looking equally trois femmes dons le goût fait loi, qui portaient avec fresh after being washed, has gained many admirers. un peignoir négligé des capotes de paille cousue noire,
Mousselines de soie are in great variety, some are garnies de rubans de gros de Naple lapis et d'une worn of a pale blue, or pale rose color; others with chicorée d'étoffe de la même nuance autour de la passe. designs of flowers chinées ; flowers satinées mixed with Les capotes, lorsqu'elles ont la passe évasée, se resserrent gold or silver; a pretty pattern is for a chain of gold chaque jour d'avantage sur les joues. Nous avons apto be upheld at settled distances by a colored stone. pris, dans les premiers magasins, que les femmes élé
In organdis litle novelty is shown except in the large- gantes qui font les apprêts de leur départ pour les ness of the pattern, organdi of an extremely fine texture eaux, ont toutes commandé une capote tout à fait baissant, and sprinkled with embroidered flowers of a similar pour les promenades, puis un petit bonnet de blonde shade, makes a very elegant demi-toilette.
gothique, absolument rond, pour les négligés et pour les The estocquienne, newly introduced, is remarkably soirées non dansantes. rich in appearance, the ground black and sprinkled Les robes de batiste ne sont plus une mode, c'est une with tulips, roses, and violets, of the most brilliant fureur; les petites maîtresses wərtəur dessous un jupon hues give an uncommonly varied and beautiful appear
de moija blanche; comme il faut une parodie à tout, ance.
nous avons remarqué des robes en batiste dite d'Ecosse, A color very much in vogue is that of the lapis-la- ce bni est du plus mauvais goût cette année. zuli in pou de soie, muslin, &c. it is very elegant. Ce qui contribue à assurer la vogue de la batiste Varieties. A method of fastening gloves now
de fil dans le monde fashionnable, c'est qu'indépendammuch adopted is that of using little gold buttons or
ment qu'une robes de cette étoffe soit fort riche, elle a studs similar to gentlemen's sleeve buttons, as they have
aussi l'avantage de ne pouvoir se porter fraîche qu'une
seule fois. been worn in wristbands. For parasols, the handles are generally of carved
Les cravattes négligées pour les femmes sont en soie ivory and the top of taffeta in large checks, blue and
écossaise, et ne différent de celles des hommes que par white, green and rose, &c.
le choix des couleurs, qui se prennent presque toujours
foncées. Ces cravattes ne sont absolument destinées For half-dress, batiste collars trimmed with lace, and collerettes embroidered and in folds, are much worn.
qu'aux négligés, puisqu'en toilette une femme porte ou Various other trimmings may be used with collars, as
un mantelet, ou une écharpe de rubans gros de Naples
fleuri, deep lace plaited, muslin embroidered and plaited, or occasionally muslin with small folds, and edged with
Aujourd'hui les gants d'une petite maitresse se font valenciennes.
à deux boutonnières et se ferment avec un double bouton For collars, satin, though a winter fabric is much
d'or. Quelques élégantes ont à leur gant bes boutons used, they are made either à nouds or
de pierres précieuses d'un grand prix.
pens. The hair is seldom worn en touffes, but en bandeaux,
Les robes d'organdi sont fort recherchées, celles surand the touffes are substituted by sprigs of flowers
tout qui sont brodées de soie platte. Le foulard est moins placed underneath the front.
en vogue pour toilettes de spectacle ou de concerts que Reticules are again much worn, and gold embroidery
pour la promenade. is a frequent ornament. The Luxor reticule is very
Les rohes se font toujours très amplest. Les corsafashionable, the shades harmoniously blended in co
ges se garnissent pour la plupart d'une double pélerine ; loured satin with gold embroidery, makes it a very
ils se font aussie à plis croisés sur la poitrine. elegant article of a lady's toilet.
Les manches sont dans toute leur ampleur, elles Very pretty morning aprons are formed by the Eng. " Une robe en foulard vert clair, à dessins bruns et
en sont lish Foulard handkerchiefs, a plain border, and sometimes a lace one, finish off these aprons at the extre
blances. Canezou en mousseline, couvert de broderies mities. W without lace, the pockets are trimmed
formant des branches entrelacées, et garni de dentelles with the fabric plaited and folded in bars.
Capote en organdi, doublée en gaze rose et bordée d'un voilə de dentelle. Ceinture verte brochée en blane
et brun. Bottines de satin noir. MODES DE PARIS ET DE LONDRES.
Les manches restent toujours très larges en haut; PUISEES AUX SOURCES LES PLUS AUTHENTIQUES:
mais, depuis le coude jusqu'au poignet, les façons varient.
On en voit de larges, de collantes, d'autres ayant des COMPRENANT UN CHOIX D'EXTRAITS DES JOURNAUX
plis marqués et retenus par trois ou quatres poignets
placés à un doigt de distance. Sur les robes d'étoffes, " Le Follet, Courrier des Salons".
'..." Le Petit Cour
on en voit aussi qui ont des petits næuds de ruban depuis rier des Dames”-“ La Mode"...“ Journal des Dames"
la saignée jusqu, au bas. ge. &c.
Les pélerines sont presque toutes rondes; on ep fait Une couleur tout à fait de mode en ce moment, est beaucoup sans second collet, à cause de la grandeur des
DONT LES TITRES SUIVENT:
collets de mousseline brodée qui les couvrent en grande partie.
On fait des redingotes dont l'ouverture du devant est disposée de maniere à se trouver sur le côté. Ces redingotes sont d'ordinaire assez habillées pour se nouer par des rubans ou être garnies de dentelles, qui indiquent la place où elles sont ouvertes.
Aux redingotes, on voit beaucoup de dos froncés, et même à quelques robes.
Beaucoup de corsages unis se font en biais, avec une souture sous la gorge.
Les fleurs portées sous la passe des chapeaux allaient si bien aux jeunes fillet qu'immédiatement les jeunes femmes s'en sont emparées pour se rendre plus gracieuses encore. Tout cela était bien jusque ia; mais vonia les femmes d'un certain âge qui ne peuvent résister à l'attrait d'une mode charmante, et qui s'en emparent, au risque de faire drie que cette coiffure ne va pas toujours bien.
C'était trop empiéter sur une fantaisie qui semble réclamer fraîcheur et jeunesse. Cependant on pardonnait encore, en faveur des exceptions qui laissaient les fleurs jolies auprès de visages fanés, mais séduisans quelquefois ; lorsque tout progressivement, et arrivant de pas en pas, ou pour mieux dire d'année en année, les fleurs se voient aujourd'hui jusque sur des figures qui ne représentent même plus le souvenir de la beauté ! Nous voyons des guirlandes sur des fronts où ne devrait se lire que la dignité des années, et des cheveux blancs qui voltigent ça et là entre des boutons de roses. Voilà l'effet de l'exagération dans les modes : elles se dénaturent selon la manière dont elles sont adoptées, et ces feurs, qui faisaient le plus séduisant ornement des chapeaux de nos jeunes femmes, vont probablement bientôt tomber pour s'être laissé profaner par quelques laides ou vieilles physionomies.
since that time, I shall add nothing to what I said before." And so, making a sign of the cross, he walked off
Murelus.--The scholars of Muretus sometimes made a noise, and interrupted him. As his temper was rather violent, be used to reprove them occasional with violence, and kept them in awe. Once during the lecture, one of them rung a bell which he had bronght in his pocket. "Truly,” said Moretus, “ I shonld have been astonished, if, among such a fock of sheep, there had not been a bell-weather to lead the rest.”
A Persian Traveller's Account of the English in India._" The Peringees,” he commenced,“ are, I beg leave to represent, by no means a pleasant people to be among; for they have nothing to say for themselves, and, considering that they are unbe lievers, have more damangh (pride, or self-snfficiency) than enough. One of their sirdars, learning that I was a great traveller, sent to invite me to visit him : so I went, and saw a grave little man, who was very civil, but as khooshh [dry, stiff] as a stick : he seated me on a chair near him, and gave me tea, which, I beg leave to state, they make deliciously: he then asked me whether I had not visited this and that place, and when I answered bulli (yes), he rejoined, 'Ha! We sat ihas for some time; first came in one captain, and then another captain; they looked at me and at each other, and every now and then delivered themselves of a syllable or two; while one man was pacing np and down the room as it he was possessed. At last some of them gave their hand to the master of the honse, and went away; so I thought I might as well leave also.-1 have learned, that formerly these men were a small tribe of merchants, servants to the kings of this country, but now, maledictions on their fathers! they have it all their own way. The secret of their tale is this: They hare information of every thing that passes everywhere, and they make the most of the
If two men qnarrel about a country, they step in to adjust the dispnte, and turn both out. It is a pity we had not the land! Ullah! how rich some of those fat Lahore idolaters are! -Soldiers, I request per mission to observe, the Inglis are not ; thongh. no doubt, they are great merchants and shrewd people. For a long time they paid us some crores a year, to keep ihe Oroos off ihem; but old Salerman (a term of derision for Fuitee Allee Shah, in allusion to the number of his women] has enongh there to keep them off himself, and the Feringees, having been acute enough to see this, no longer waste their money.-Conolly's Journey to the North of India
Physicians. It has always been observed that pliysicians from time immemorial have had very little religion. It was remarked, as a singular fact, that during the massacre of St. Bartholomew, although all the Calvinists who were attached to their religion, and known to be so, were marked out as victions, there was not a physician on the list, and, in point of fact, pot a pbysician perished in that dreadful butchery.
Enterloinment of Brahmins.- A man invites a party of these holy men to dine with him, by requesting them to come and sit in the light of his eyes, and put the soles of their feet upon the crown of his l'ead; and, when they are arrived, and seated on the ground, with leaves of the palm tree before them as plates, be serves them with rich dishes, anci nses bis utmost endeavours to make them eat to repletion- The more the Bralınins partake of his charity, the greater the host considers his reward will be; and, as he cannot do more than kill his friends with kind. ness, he does his best to persnade them to so happy a death. When the guests protest that they have eaten their fiil, the host beseeches them io bring blessings on him by eating a little more: from entreaties he proceeds to offers of reward, and actually bids his guests sums of money to eal more portions, increasing his offers according to his disposition and means, sometimes to very large sums; for it he fails to kill his Brahmin guests with bis meat, he still looks for the virtual increase of wbat they do eat, and ot' the money with which he bribes them; and “men,”-to borrow an expression from my best informant, “after spending the greatest part of their lives in an economy which scarcely allowed them to keep flesh upon their bones, have been known to dissipate, at a sitting, the gatherings of many years of usarious existence."- Conolly's Journey to the North of India,
Persian Artillery - The most accurate idea of the state of Persian artilery inży be gathered from an anecdote in the Sketches of Persia, in which the besieged commandant of a fort requests his enemy to fire of his other ball, and to put their minds at rest,--Conolly's Journey to the North of India.
Raising the Wind in the East. When Mohummud Azeem Khan (brother to the famed Affghann Vuzeer Futieb Khan) was governor in Cashmeere, Abdoollah Khan, who attended at his court, offered to give him eight thousand rapees for all the wind that blew over Caslımeere. The governor reasoning like Mertonn, that “ since every thing in the miniverse is bought and sold, the wind should not be excepted if a purchaser can be found"--and partner no doubt in the villany that followedaccepted the offer, and permitted Abilouhlah Khan to issue a proclamation, warning all people that he had bought the wind of Cashmeere, and threatening to pnnish any one who should winnow his grain, or in any other way use it without bis per. mission. The order at first excited amusement, but when the governor, who had affected to think it a joke, said that he had heen taken advantage of, but that he must be as good as his word, and allowed Abdoollah Khan severely to fine those who even presumed to fly a pigeon withont purchasing his licence, the purport of the bargain was onderstood. The Cashmerians had been 100 long familiar with oppression not to know the only means of lightening its chains, and they sobscribed a large sum of money to induce Abdoollah Khan io allow " the wind of heaven” to blow freely on them again, the governor promising that such another spell should not be put upon it.
A Short Sermon.-On St Stephen's day, a monk was appointed to pronounce a long eulogium npon this saint. As the day was pretty well advanced, the priests, who were getiing hungry, and were apprehensive of a tedions panegyric, whispered to their comrade to be brief. The monk mounted tie palpit, and, after a short preamble, said, "My brethren, it is only about a year since I told you all I knew about Sr. Stephen. As I lave heard nothing new with regard to him