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vanity of a young man led him to decline too hastily the proposal that had been made to marry him, in pursuance of a dead man's will, to a lady whom he had never seen. He replied to the count's messenger, that he was about to take a command in Spain, and that, as his absence from his native country might be of uncertain duration, he relinquished all thoughts of the honor which was intended him by such an alliance. The count, stung with this cool reply, which however admitted of no further consideration, resolved that his niece's beauty should at least be seen and acknowledged; and, therefore, at the approaching Festival of the Rose, he held a grand tourney, to which he invited the neighbouring barons and knights. He had little doubt, that his niece would carry off the prize at the first, and he intended that she should display among her equals those charms to which he was sure all who saw her must pay homage.

The young Gui de Besancour was in no hurry to go to Spain; the news of the tourney determined him to go, but in disguise, to the castle of Allière, to see the lady whom fortune had intended to thrust upon him without asking. Accompanied only by an esquire, who had, like himself, some skill in music, in the garb of troubadours a disguise then commonly adopted by people of all ranks-he repaired to Allière. He reached that place on the evening of the day on which the Festival of the Rose was held, and the tourney was to begin on the morrow.

The Count Gui was wholly unprepared for the nature of the scene to which he was thus unexpectedly introduced. He had heard of the Festival of the Rose, and indistinctly of the nature of the ceremony, but he did not know the manners of the Provençal people, nor the extreme simplicity with which they conducted this ceremony, a simplicity which partook more of the olden times to which its original belonged than to the then present period. The Count Raimond and his noble friends, male as well as female, were dressed in the garb of peasants. They mingled in the sports of their tenants without ceremony, the difference of rank was forgotten, and the father of his people was treated by them with that inward and heartfelt respect which a father deserves, but without any of that untoward homage which, in a more courtly company, his station would have entitled him to. The lovely Claude, dressed in pure white, with no other decoration than the charms which heaven had bestowed on her, and crowned with the one white rose which her undisputed beauty had won, moved among the village girls like one of them. The peasants were all in their best clothes, and in the frank hilarity of the moment no stranger could have told which of them was gentle and which simple.

On a throne of turf strewn with flowers, on which a bower of roses was erected, sate Claude, surrounded by her fair companions. A table was spread beneath a trellised vine, at the side where the Count Raimond and the elder part of the company sate. Some minstrels were at the opposite side, who were preparing to accompany the dance which was about to begin, when a shout from some of the peasants announced the arrival of strangers. The Count Gui, with his lute slung upon his shoulder, and followed by Raoul, his esquire, who had faithfully served him, in war as well as in peace, from his boyhood, approached. They were hurried up

NO. XLIII. VOL. IV.

by a crowd of laughing rustics to the throne, to pay homage to the queen of the day. He was soon informed of the nature of the festival; but, as it was a rule of the sport, that the queen of the day should be addressed by no other name than that of her title, and giving in at once to the humour of the moment, he, after striking a few chords on his lute, improvised the following song, which he sung with a rich mellow voice :

Of all the flowers that deck the earth,
When summer beauties first unclose,
The fairest gem that takes its birth

Is sweet Provence's matchless Rose.
And fair Provence has maidens bright,
Who, like her Rose, 'mong other flowers,
Shine but to form the world's delight,

And peerless deck her sunny bowers.
Here, where before my raptured gaze,
The union of these charms are seen,
Humbly I turn my willing lays

To thee, fair maid, the Rose's Queen.

Loud applauses followed this proof of the minstrel's skill; and having thus manifested his desire to join in the revelry, he needed no farther introduction. The dance was about to begin, in which he joined, and with a courteous frankness claimed, in right of his being the last comer, the hand of the Queen of the Rose. If her beauty had struck him at the first glance, the charms of her conversation completed his fascination; and when the dance broke off, he was as completely and as unexpectedly in love as any man should desire to be. The Count Raimond, who saw by the demeaner of both his master and his follower, that they were not minstrels by profession, endeavoured to ascertain who they were. Raoul, whom he essayed first, was too close and wary. to give him any satisfactory replies; but cunning as the esquire was, the old count was too old a soldier to give him up at once; but seeing that Raoul had attached himself to the laughing Jacqueline, a goddaughter of his own, and the child of one of his tenants, he called her to him, and bade her try to get out the serving man's secret. Jacqueline loved a secret herself; she loved mischief, too, a little---what woman does not? She liked to show her power over a new lover, and what pretty young woman will blame her for it? She managed matters so well, that before the sports had concluded she had the whole of Raoul's history, which he imparted to her under the seal of secrecy; and, with a similar qualification, she, within two minutes after, had told the Count Raimond that the troubadour was no other than the young Gui de Besancour.

The Count Gui was in the mean time busy in endeavouring to make himself agreeable to the young peasant, as he thought her, who had been crowned Queen of the Rose. He urged his suit with all the art that he possessed, and Claude soon perceived by his courtly gallantry that he was a person of some degree, and possessing accomplishments which were by no means common with such folks as his dress would have bespoken him. She replied to all his flatteries with a frank, but prudent, naiveté, which was well calculated to keep him in the error he had fallen into respecting her condition, and completely enchanted him. She asked him once more to sing, and he expressed his passion in a roundel -a mode of composition which was then in great vogue in the French court

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Lady, lay those frowns aside;

Winter reigns not all the year.

The laughing spring a flower-deck'd bride, Has chased away the tyrant drear.

Then listen, lady, to my lay;

Why in your heart should winter stay?

Time's wing will crush the flow'ret's bloom,
And love has wings as well as darts;
The flowers must yield them to their doom,
And love rests only in young hearts ;
Then listen, lady, to my lay;
What'er has wings will fly away.

But time and love are both your own,
Your charms now blossom in their prime,
Enjoy them ere the hours be flown,

And leave to Fate the wintry time.
Then listen, lady, to my lay;

Gather the roses while you may.

The Count Raimond had taken advantage of his abstraction to request the elder of the peasants to take care that the stranger did not learn the rank of the queen and of the other noble guests, but that he should remain in the belief that they were merely inhabitants of a neighbouring farm. By this time the sun had set, and two horses, caparisoned in the homely manner of the farmers, being brought, Raimond summoned his neice to accompany him. Gui employed the few moments, during which the queen was preparing for her departure, to ask where she dwelt, but she would give him no other reply than by telling him she should be at the tourney at the castle on the following day. Raimond helped her on her horse, and mounting himself, and followed by his guests, the seeming rustics, they dashed off at a speed which made it impossible for the minstrels to overtake them, or to discover their route. The father of Jacqueline offered them the hospitality of his house, which they accepted, and Gui retired to rest to dream of the lovely Queen of the Rose, whom he determined to see on the following day.

The Castle of Alliére was crowded with all the gay and noble persons in the vicinity. In the court-yard lists were prepared, and on a dais at the upper end sate the Lady Claude. An indifferent spectator might have found it difficult to recognise in her the simple maiden of the preceding day. Instead of the white robe which had then displayed all the graces of her person, she was now dressed in all the gorgeous splendour which befitted her station. Jewels shone upon her fair bosom, a coronet blazed upon her brows, and a white veil, which reached nearly to her feet, concealed some part of her features. Gui was there, still in his dress of a troubadour, and looked around in vain for the Queen of the Rose. He saw all the maidens whom he had noted as being her companions, but she was not among them, and he never thought of discovering her in the lovely heiress of Alliére. Wearied with his search, and disappointed at its result, he betook himself to the lists to see the tourney. At first he felt no desire to join it, but when he saw that the prize was to be bestowed by the hand of the lady whose love had been proffered to him, and whom he had rejected, he felt some desire to see her if he could do so unknown. The clang of the trumpets, and clash of arms, roused his martial ardour, and he was blaming himself for not having provided himself with horse and armour, when he was joined by an old peasant whom he had talked with on the preceding evening. He perceived immediately that it was the chaperon of the maiden whom he had been in vain

seeking. He asked him where the Queen of the Rose was. The old man was no other than the Count Raimond, replied that she would be there anon. But why,' said he, Sir Minstrel, do you stand here an idle gazer while so manly a sport as this is on foot. Any one can see that though you now carry a lute you have been used to a more stirring occupation.'

·

Sir Gui turned upon his inquirer, whose familiarity was anything but offensive. You see,' he replied, that I have neither horse nor arms.

If that be all,' said the old man, 'your need will be soon supplied, for yonder stands the steed of Sir Albert He Brunne, who has received a hurt in the last tilt. loves the sport so well that though he cannot join in it himself, he will gladly see another do so. If you will ask, I am sure he will lend you both steed and harness.'

Gui knew the knight whose name had been mentioned, and beckoning to Raoul, he bade him ask the loan of the armour in his name, at the same time enjoining the knight not to disclose the circumstance of his being present. A prompt reply was returned, and in a few minutes' space the Count Gui was in the saddle, armed for the tilt, and with a good lance in his hand.

The trumpets sounded, and he rode gallantly into the lists. Up to this moment fortune had favoured the Baron de Riverdum, who was understood to be a suitor for the hand of the Lady Claude. He was a man of large stature, and had distinguished himself in the wars of Guienne, His well-known prowess deterred many of the competitors from encountering him, and his strength worsted all who offered to dispute the prize. Gui, however, was destined to check his triumph. They ran three courses, in the two first of which their address was such as to avoid being borne from the saddles, although the shocks were rude enough. In the third Gui levelled the coronal of his lance against the throat of his antagonist, and the blow was so true and so vigorous as to bear the baron a spear's length from his saddle, and to leave him upon the field. His squires bore him off the ground. A crowd of assailants offered. themselves to encounter the new comer, who received their attacks in succession, but still triumphed over them all. At length there were no more opponents, and the unknown knight was declared to have won the prize. He approached the dais on which the Lady Claude was seated, and kneeling, received from her. hands a green scarf worked with white roses, which was, the prize. Her veil was still over a part of her face, but her graceful manner, and the beauty of such part of her countenance as he could see, convinced him that he had been somewhat hasty in his refusai. The herald approached him to know his name. His esquire replied, that his master had at present no other appellation than that of the Knight of the White Rose. The trumpets then brayed out, and the heralds proclaimed the Knight of the White Rose to be the victor of the day's tourney.

The Count Raimond in his proper person greeted him on his success, and, without appearing to penetrate his disguise, craved his presence at the banquet, to which Sir Gui acceded. The feast was graced by all the beauty and worth of Provence. The Lady Claude sate at the upper end of the feast, and the victor was. placed near her. He had now a full view of her face,

and, although he could not help thinking that she hore an extraordinary resemblance to the Queen of the Rose, yet the change of dress, and the circumstances in which she was now placed, forbade his imagining that she was the lowly maid who had enraptured him on the preceding evening. He talked to her, and found the graceful polish of her manners and the charms of her mind in no degree inferior to her beauty. He was half ready to chide himself for the dangerous facility with which he found himself again enslaved when the feast broke up. Some of the guests repaired to the gardens of the castle; others remained in the hall, diverting themselves in conversation, or in some social sports.

The Lady Claude, followed by Sir Gui, proceeded to a terrace which commanded a view of the surrounding country. The evening was drawing to a close, and the declining rays of the sun shed a purple kind of tint over the picturesque and fertile landscape which lay before them. At the upper end of the terrace was an alcove decorated with rare plants, and constructed in that spirit of gorgeous ornament which is the characteristic of what is called the florid Gothic. An open door led to the boudoir of the Lady Claude. In the alcove were seats and tables. An illuminated volume of Provençal poems lay there, and a lute, which seemed to belong to the fair mistress of the castle, was on a seat just by. The enamoured Sir Gui asked the lady if she had skill upon the instrument.

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I am a passing poor performer,' said she; but if it will amuse you, I will sing a lay which has lately been brought into this country by a wandering minstrel.' After a short prelude, she began to sing the roundel which Sir Gui had sung on the preceding evening.

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'Can it be,' said he, that you have heard this roundel sung by a minstrel.'

'Nothing is more true,' replied the Lady Claude; and it was no longer too than yester-eve.'

Were you then at the Festival of the Rose in the village below?' asked he, with increasing anxiety.

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That she was, I'll be sworn,' said the Count Raimond, who had been an unobserved witness of this conversation; and by the same token she was herself the Queen of the Rose as truly as you are the Count Gui de Besancour.'

Gui turned round; a few words sufficed to explain to him the cause of his delusion, and a short, but sincere, apology ensured his pardon. It need not be added that he gave up all thoughts of the Spanish expedition. A few weeks saw him the happy husband of the Rose Queen; and, although, at the present time, the Festival of the Rose is annually celebrated at Allière, never has there been a fairer candidate for the prize than the lovely Claude.

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The " Exposition de l'Industrie," to which I so particularly alluded in my last, is as fashionable a resort as ever, and more than a hundred thousand foreigners, it is calculated, have already visited it. The beautiful fabrics of Lyons and Nimes, the cloths of Sedan, Elbeuf, Louviers, &c., the blondes of Caen, the lace of Violard, the ribbons of Etienne, and the muslins of Tarare, in elegant and lavish profusion, adorned this receptacle of all that is useful or ingenious in arts and manufactures. A new kind of water-proof tissue, called peau de baleine, which may be worked into silk, cotton, woollen, linen, or fabric of any description, is deserving notice. It has the double advantage of being wholly impervious to the wet, being at the same time not liable to crease, and may be wrought of so delicate a texture, as to be even applicable for a neck handkerchief. At the Concerts given at the Champs Elysées, the company has been large and elegant, and the display of fashion considerably more than has been for some time remarked. I have observed that hats have the crown somewhat more elevated, and slightly conical, the front wide, and the sides falling square towards the side of the face. A toilet, worn on one evening that I was present, by a lady-one of the leaders of the ton, struck me as particularly beautiful; and likely to be generally becoming. It was a muslin of pearl grey, embroidered in silk of the same colour, forming bouquets, which encreased in size from the ceinture downwards, according to the gradual increase in dimension. of the skirt. The sleeves, which were large, were clasped at the wrist by a plain flat gold bracelet, closed by cameos. The canezou, of Indian muslin, was covered with garlands enchevrotées, and embroidered au plumetis, so richly, as almost to conceal the muslin, and edged with a double row of point d'Angleterre.— An Italian straw hat, adorned with long feathers and ribbons paille a damier; and black pou de soie shoes, completed this elegant toilet.

In the fashionable, as well as the literary world, novelty is eagerly sought, and the abilities and taste of hundreds and thousands of those who are charged with furnishing new ideas and styles, or patching up old ones, are rendered subsidiary to the craving wants of the literary lounger, or the coquetish petite maitresse. The mantelets, so much cherished by our grandmothers, are now as much patronized as ever; and the reticules, for such a length of time disused, are again taken into favor, for toilettes negligées, ornamented with the richest embroidery, for full dress, pockets are destined to receive the handkerchief and purse.

The single rose-bud, or small and delicate bouquet, now worn under the front of the hat, according to the disposition of the flowers, may be made auxiliary to the most elegant taste; for young people, especially, it is a most becoming ornament.

In consequence of the continued fine weather, the various attractions of Paris have been more than usually numerous, and though, each evening, uncommonly brilliant assemblages enliven the various gardens and other public places of amusement, the toilet of the up

per and middling ranks may be said to assimilate more closely than on many former occasions; owing, probably, in a great degree, to the infinite variety of light fabrics worn, and the diversity of taste that is now more than usually shown in individual fancy, than in a presiding mode. The Balls of Ranelagh and Sceaux, the Concerts of the Champs Elysées, and of the Jardin Turk, the more than ordinary splendour of the Fêtes at the Gardens of Tivoli, with a number of other sources of amusement of a similar nature, make Paris, at this period, a focus of attraction to those whom the unsophisticated charms of the country are not sufficient to draw away from the capital-to others who yet linger before their departure to their rural chateaux-or the vast accession of foreigners, who throng to mingle in the Parisian gaieties. It is in the public gardens and promenades that the stranger must now take note of the toilets of the fashionable; but it may be a useful hint to those whose taste is unequivocally good, that they may, to a great extent, set the fashion for themselves in the Parisian Metropolis. A. de C.

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

FROM A VARIETY OF THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES INCLUDING COPIOUS EXTRACTS FROM

"Le Petit Courrier des Dames"-"Journal de Paris et des Modes, L'Observateur des Modes et L'Indiscret"-" Le Follet Courrier des Salons"-" Le Mercure des Salons," &c. &c.

We have seen a great variety of foulard dresses, of large and magnificent designs with canezous of muslin richly embroidered and deeply edged with lace.

An elegant promenade dress is made from Scotch gros de Naples, brown, yellow, and blue checks. Accompanying this, a point d'Alençon mantilla, and Italian dress hat, adorned with white feathers, look well.

Many white muslin or organdi dresses have pelerines embroidered or trimmed with lace.

Redingotes are for the most part worn high, flat, the sleeves larger, frocéns at the bottom. Pelerines about the same size as usual, some à pointes, or rounded behind and open before.

Redingotes of jaconas are closed by nœuds, at equal distances or simply by a pli, sometimes the under dress is closed merely under the ceinture so as to leave the dress open all the way down and expose the under dress of fine percale, which is frequently embroidered or trimmed with valencienne, this may be rose-coloured, straw, or lilac colored gros de Naples, when the redingote is very elegant.

A redingote in organdi embroidered on plumetis, on each side of the jupon garlands of carnations disposed en bran debourgs, and diminish gradually towards the ceinture, at intervals of about nine inches, the sides united by ribbon noeuds of taffeta, rose glacé en blanc ; a pelerine, square edges with deep lace, sleeves large, fronces at the wrist, round which is a ribbon tied in the manner of a bracelet. A hat of paille-de-riz, adorned

with a moss rose under the front, with buds of the moss rose reclining on each side. Boots grey, gloves

of pearl grey.

A Pekin dress deep color, sprinkled with bouquets.

corsage close fitting, and calculated to show a good shape to the greatest advantage. The folds of the jupon à double crevés. Sleeves long and large, and gathered in three folds on the shoulder. About eight widths is requisite for this dress.

A very effective ball dress was observed, at the "Theatre Italien," consisting of a robe d'Angleterre over a pale blue taffeta, raised to the knee, and held by a pale Chinese rose; in the hair and sleeves were arranged Chinese roses, for biouterie, and turquoises on black enamel.

Mousseline d'Inde embroidered in gold or trimmed with lace organdis embroidered with silk, and robes d'Angleterre, or point de Bruxelles have seemed to take the lead among our elegantes as ball toilets.

A very beautiful effect was produced by a rose-colored pou de soie, and Brussels point over, held up on each side by rose buds and primroses.

HATS, BONNETS, &c.---The Italian straws which are so beautiful and generally becoming are still favorites, and are worn even larger than before.

Blond and lace hats since the weather has shown itself so decidedly fine, are worn to a great extent, bouquets and light garlands generally ornament them.

The Italian straw hats though generally larger than formerly may yet be considered more subject to individual caprice, than many of the other sorts of fabric; fine straws are adorned very frequently and with a very pretty effect, with white feathers and ribbons of embroidered pou de soie.

In the magazines of the first consequence, the hats particularly of Italian straw are seen larger than ever, and the crowns straight and high.

For young persons, the following is becoming, paille de riz, ornamented with a simple ribbon of white taffetas doubling round the crown, and forming a nœud on the side. Under the front a little blond ruche forming a cap, terminated on each side by little bouquets of china-asters. Also capotes à coulises, in rose-colored taffetas, with white glacé, with rose or blue crape lined with embroidered organdi or tulle; and a point or tulle veil. India muslin is also very suitable for these capotes.

MATERIALS AND COLORS.-The sylphide with an embroidered lining is much worn from its extreme convenience it being suitable for almost every description of apparel whether for the ball-room, the sitting, or the promenade.

For demi-toilet, the damas écossais is much used. Green and white embroidered pou de soie forms a charming summer dress.

Of Pekins, a great variety is now used of which as the most distingués the following may be enumerated. Pekins embroidered couleur sur couleur, designs à ramages.

Pekins chinés with rose on turquoise-colored ground, flowers of the natural color, in serpentine garlands.

The Pekins brochés pincautis, as its name imports, both embroidered in silk, and touched afterwards with the pencil.

For a grotesque fancy costume we have seen a foulard well adapted, the ground was black, and covered with designs of tulips and roses larger than one's hand. This pattern with ground of every variety of shade, may be had also in the jaconas imprimés

We have seen some uncommonly pretty specimens of

Scotch flannel ginghams; amid the more tender shadows there was a square of a very light tint, in which a small white flower was visible.

For ball dresses, crape; India muslin; organdes &c. have been much used.

Pou de soie is not only one of the most approved fabrics for hats, but also for full dress.

The predominating shades are generally light. The foulard de Bruxelles from its very pretty glosssy appearance, and the advantage of its looking equally fresh after being washed, has gained many admirers.

Mousselines de soie are in great variety, some are worn of a pa le blue, or pale rose color; others with designs of flowers chinées; flowers satinées mixed with gold or silver; a pretty pattern is for a chain of gold to be upheld at settled distances by a colored stone.

In organdis litle novelty is shown except in the largeness of the pattern, organdi of an extremely fine texture and sprinkled with embroidered flowers of a similar shade, makes a very elegant demi-toilette.

The estocquienne, newly introduced, is remarkably rich in appearance, the ground black and sprinkled with tulips, roses, and violets, of the most brilliant hues give an uncommonly varied and beautiful appear

ance.

A color very much in vogue is that of the lapis-lazuli in pou de soie, muslin, &c. it is very elegant.

VARIETIES. A method of fastening gloves now much adopted is that of using little gold buttons or studs similar to gentlemen's sleeve buttons, as they have been worn in wristbands.

For parasols, the handles are generally of carved ivory and the top of taffeta in large checks, blue and white, green and rose, &c.

For half-dress, batiste collars trimmed with lace, and collerettes embroidered and in folds, are much worn. Various other trimmings may be used with collars, as deep lace plaited, muslin embroidered and plaited, or Occasionally muslin with small folds, and edged with valenciennes.

For collars, satin, though a winter fabric is much used, they are made either à nœuds or

pens.

The hair is seldom worn en touffes, but en bandeaux, and the touffes are substituted by sprigs of flowers placed underneath the front.

Reticules are again much worn, and gold embroidery is a frequent ornament. The Luxor reticule is very fashionable, the shades harmoniously blended in coloured satin with gold embroidery, makes it a very elegant article of a lady's toilet.

Very pretty morning aprons are formed by the English Foulard handkerchiefs, a plain border, and sometimes a lace one, finish off these aprons at the extremities. When without lace, the pockets are trimmed with the fabric plaited and folded in bars.

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celle lapis une robe de pou de soie ou de mousseline de cette couleur, ce qui est très rare, est un négligè fort galant; presque tous les chapeaux de paille d'Italie qui, au commencement de la saison, étaient garnis de rubans gros grains de diverses nuances, se dégarnissent pour recevoir du ruban de gros de Naples lapis; les plus coquets sont garnis de rubans gros grains écossais lapis et vert saule.

Nous avons remarqué au bois de Boulogne deux ou trois femmes dons le goût fait loi, qui portaient avec un peignoir négligé des capotes de paille cousue noire, garnies de rubans de gros de Naple lapis et d'une chicorée d'étoffe de la même nuance autour de la passe. Les capotes, lorsqu'elles ont la passe évasée, se resserrent chaque jour d'avantage sur les joues. Nous avons appris, dans les premiers magasins, que les femmes élégantes qui font les apprêts de leur départ pour les eaux, ont toutes commandé une capote tout à fait baissant, pour les promenades, puis un petit bonnet de blonde gothique, absolument rond, pour les négligés et pour les soirées non dansantes.

Les robes de batiste ne sont plus une mode, c'est une fureur; les petites maîtresses were dessous un jupon de moixa blanche; comme il faut une parodie à tout, nous avons remarqué des robes en batiste dite d'Ecosse, ce bni est du plus mauvais goût cette année.

Ce qui contribue à assurer la vogue de la batiste de fil dans le monde fashionnable, c'est qu'indépendamment qu'une robes de cette étoffe soit fort riche, elle a aussi l'avantage de ne pouvoir se porter fraîche qu'une seule fois.

Les cravattes négligées pour les femmes sont en soie écossaise, et ne diffêrent de celles des hommes que par le choix des couleurs, qui se prennent presque toujours foncées. Ces cravattes ne sont absolument destinées qu'aux négligés, puisqu'en toilette une femme porte ou un mantelet, ou une écharpe de rubans gros de Naples fleuri.

Aujourd'hui les gants d'une petite maitresse se font à deux boutonnières et se ferment avec un double bouton d'or. Quelques élégantes ont à leur gant bes boutons de pierres précieuses d'un grand prix.

Les robes d'organdi sont fort recherchées, celles surtout qui sont brodées de soie platte. Le foulard est moins en vogue pour toilettes de spectacle ou de concerts que pour la promenade.

Les robes se font toujours très amplest. Les corsages se garnissent pour la plupart d'une double pélerine ; ils se font aussie â plis croisés sur la poitrine.

Les manches sont dans toute leur ampleur, elles en sont effrayantes.

Une robe en foulard vert clair, à dessins bruns et blances. Canezou en mousseline, couvert de broderies formant des branches entrelacées, et garni de dentelles Capote en organdi, doublée en gaze rose et bordée d'un voila de dentelle. Ceinture verte brochée en blane et brun. Bottines de satin noir.

Les manches restent toujours très larges en haut; mais, depuis le coude jusqu'au poignet, les façons varient. On en voit de larges, de collantes, d'autres ayant des plis marqués et retenus par trois ou quatres poignets placés à un doigt de distance. Sur les robes d'étoffes, on en voit aussi qui ont des petits nœuds de ruban depuis la saignée jusqu, au bas.

Les pélerines sont presque toutes rondes; on en fait beaucoup sans second collet, à cause de la grandeur des

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