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is a little more genial, and until carriages on wheels can be used instead of sledges, as we have not yet quite forgotten the sensation of jolting in and out of an ouchaba. Some friends who left Tamboff about the same time as ourselves, and who arrived here a few days before us, were upset twice in the course of the journey, so that we may consider ourselves fortunate in having escaped all accidents.

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LETTER XXII.

Cold in April-Alexandrovsky-General Wilson - The Imperial
Manufactory-Foundlings - English artisans - Mr. Law.

St. Petersburg, April 11th, 1838.

WE are in hopes that the winter is now nearly over, as the frost yesterday began to give way, and the thaw is proceeding rapidly. Everybody will rejoice heartily at the arrival of spring, for such a winter as this has been few persons can remember. Greater degrees of cold have been known; but the duration of the frost, and its continued severity for nearly five months, is almost unprecedented even in Russia. So late as this day week (the 4th of April) there were in Petersburg nineteen degrees of cold,* and in the country twenty. The ice on the Neva is from forty-two to forty-four inches thick, and the ground is frozen to the depth of six feet.

We went yesterday to see the Imperial manufactory at Alexandrovsky, about thirteen versts hence, in compliance with an invitation from General Wilson, who, for thirty years, has superintended the establishment, and who is a most excellent and popular person. The articles manufactured here are of various kinds. In one department, cotton is spun; in another, sheets, table-linen, &c., are woven; and in a third are made all the playing-cards which are used in Russia, as the Crown reserves the monopoly of this manufacture. About three thousand operatives are employed altogether; and of these nearly one thousand are foundlings, boys and girls. At twelve years old the foundlings are brought to the factory from the hospital where they have been reared, and they remain there till the age of twenty-one, when the young men become their own masters, may marry, and may quit the manufactory, or may remain as paid workmen, according as they please. The girls are allowed to marry at eighteen.

* By Reaumur.

From the moment of their arrival at the manufactory, these foundlings, in addition to their food, clothing, and lodging, receive small monthly wages, half of which is given to them by way of pocket-money, and the other half is placed at interest in a savings-bank; so that when they come of age, or ́ marry, they have a little fund of three or four hundred roubles with which to begin the world. Immediately after our arrival at Alexandrovsky we were taken to see the young operatives at dinner, which, it being Lent, the only fast in the year which they are required to keep, consisted of soup-maigre, fish, rye-bread, and quass—all served in pewter. The day was an ordinary working-day, and there was no preparation for visitors, our arrival, owing to a misunderstanding, being, in fact, quite unexpected. Nothing, however, could exceed the neatness and perfect cleanliness of these young manufacturers, more especially of the girls, with their well-brushed hair neatly braided on the forehead, and fastened behind with a comb, every head being arranged alike. A wooden screen, about six feet high, ran down the middle of the hall to separate the two sexes. Leaving them at their meal, we were shown through the dormitories, which were clean, airy, and comfortable; a convenient washing-room, well supplied with water, being attached to each set.

When we returned to the hall, dinner was over, and at our appearance a bell was rung, when the whole body, young men, boys, and girls, stood up and sung a hymn; at the conclusion of which the bell gave the signal for departure, and the two sexes moved out of the hall at different ends, in the most orderly manner. I was told by General Wilson's brother that in the thirty years during which he has had the management of this manufactory there has never been more than one instance of a girl misconducting herself; a fact which strongly attests the excellence of the regulations which are observed.

This, like all the other public establishments, such as barracks and hospitals, which I have seen in this country, appears a perfect model of order and cleanliness; a fact the more striking in Russia, since there is usually abundant room for improvement in these respects in private houses. Most branches of the work at Alexandrovsky are under the super

vision of English foremen, so that there is a colony here of our countrymen, amounting to seventy or eighty persons. Divine service is performed for their benefit, in the schoolroom, every Sunday evening, by the British chaplain, Mr. Law,* who most kindly goes over from Petersburg for this purpose.

I believe this excursion to Alexandrovsky is the only incident which is worth mentioning since we have been here; you must therefore be contented with a short letter, as you would not thank me if I filled it up with a description of Petersburg, or an account of the relations and friends who are kind enough to invite us to their houses. However, as Easter is approaching, I hope to have more to tell the next time I write.

*It is but justice to my friend Mr. Law to add, that this duty, which is entirely voluntary and gratuitous on his part, is a laborious addition to two full services which he performs every Sunday in the British church at St. Petersburg.

LETTER XXIII.

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Conclusion of Lent — The Metropolitan washing the feet of twelve priests - Want of decorum in a Russian congregation - Commencement of Easter Sunday- Ceremony at the Kazan church - Christos voscress The Emperor and a Mahometan sentry - The katchellies — Coaches and six-Grand promenade - The Emperor and Empress - Silent reception of his Majesty, in accordance with Russian ideas of etiquette - Number of holidays injurious to Russia - Why not abolished.

Petersburg, April 24th, 1838. LENT is now over, and the Russians, to their great joy, are once more at liberty to eat, dance, and marry, as they please.

On the day before Good Friday we went to the Kazan church, to see the ceremony of the Metropolitan washing the feet of twelve priests. In the centre of the church, which was much crowded, a platform was raised about five feet from the ground, and on this were placed thirteen chairs; six on each side for the priests, and one at the top for the Metropolitan. Mass was first celebrated at the grand altar, and, at the conclusion, the Metropolitan ascended the platform, and took his seat facing the altar, while six or seven deacons placed themselves behind his chair. A service was now chanted, and soon after it had begun two bishops made their appearance on the platform. They bowed to the altar, and then to the Metropolitan, and seated themselves on either side of him. Two priests followed, and took their places in the two next chairs in like manner. Others succeeded them, and at last the twelve chairs were filled. The Metropolitan then rose up, laid aside his ribbons and decorations, took off several robes one after another, and girded himself with a long towel, the chanted service still continuing. He then passed round to each of the twelve priests in succession, with a large silver basin, and went through the form of washing their feet, a deacon accompanying and assisting him. This part of the

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