THE SHEIKH'S MODEST DEMEANOUR. 45

CHAPTER III.

The Sheikh's modest demeanour-His Residence-Repast-Spirited Reply of the Sheikh's Son-Captain Taylor-Land at Bussorah-New Governor - ExGovernor The new Governor's Public Entrance into Bussorah-First act of his Government-His Visits to the Political Agent-His Visit returned-Wearing Shoes in the Chamber of an Asiatic-Horse-racing in the Desert-The Governor's attempt at oppression -An Armenian's Betrothment-Pas de deux between a Jew and a Turk.

February 19.-IT was entertaining to observe the timid and downcast look which the Sheikh put on his countenance this morning, differing so widely from the habitual ferocity of his aspect. To cheer him up, and to make his mind easy, Mr. Hamilton and myself accepted his invitation to go to his house. Once out of the

46

THE SHEIKH'S RESIDENCE.

ship, he soon regained his spirits, and proved to be a very agreeable companion.

The Sheikh told us, that within a few miles of Mohumrah, there was a stone with an inscription in European characters. This may possibly be an ancient record, and worthy the notice of some future traveller. From the direction in which he pointed, it must be nearly south of Mohumrah.

The Sheikh's residence is in a quadrangular mud fort; the walls of which, in many places, have been battered down by the rain.

The mansion, like the fort, is built entirely of mud; round it are the huts of the Sheikh's retainers. The interior of the dwelling is entirely destitute of ornament. A carpet was spread for us on the dusty floor, round which we seated ourselves very comfortably, to some excellent fish, fruits, and sweetmeats; and with this good cheer forgot the unfurnished state of the apartment, and the absence of knives and forks.

SHEIKH'S SON-HIS SPIRITED REPLY. 47

We were much amused with the Sheikh's son, a child three years old, whose spirited answers were strong indications of the manner in which his father was bringing him up. I asked him, among other questions, if he was an Arab or a Persian. Indignant that there should be a doubt upon the subject, his little hand grasped the dagger in his girdle, as he replied in an angry tone, "God be praised, I am an Arab !" an example how early a mutual hatred is instilled into the youth of these rival nations. February 20.-We anchored within ten miles. of Bussorah. Captain Taylor, the political agent, came on board, was received with the customary salute, and after dinner returned ashore.

The next morning, the ship anchored opposite the town. Mr. and Mrs. Taylor, and our travelling party disembarked, and landed at the British factory, the residence of the political agent. With the exception of the palace, this is the best house in town. It is situate a mile

48

EX-GOVERNOR OF BUSSORAH.

up a narrow creek, which discharges itself into the Shut ul Arab.

A few days before our arrival, the brother of the Pasha of Bagdad, himself a Pasha of two tails, had been appointed Governor of Bussorah. He was encamped in the Desert, outside the walls, and was shortly to make his public entrance into the town.

The late Governor, having a short time before received secret intelligence that his successor was appointed, one night mounted his horse, and traversed the Desert to Bagdad. He thought it expedient not to wait to deliver up his authority formally; because it is the usual custom of a new governor to seize upon the person of his predecessor, and to extract from him what money he can. By this means, the ex-governor has generally to refund some of his ill-gotten wealth here, and on arriving at Bagdad, to answer the additional demands made upon him by the Pasha of that city, whose delegate he is. In the present instance,

GOVERNOR'S PUBLIC ENTRY.

49

he has only to satisfy the rapacity of the one, instead of both the brothers. He will then fall back into his original situation of janizary, with which he must be content, till his stars guide him to another government, or a bow-string.

February 22.-The Pasha made his public entrance this morning. We saw the whole procession from the windows of a Persian's house. They came in the following order :

At nine o'clock, a body of armed men, forming an advance guard, announced their approach by a continual discharge of musquetry, and passed us at a jog trot; then another party, who occasionally halted, and danced in a circle; marking time by striking their swords against each others' shields. These were followed by large parties of Desert Arabs, of the Zobeir tribe, preceded by their immediate petty chiefs, on horseback. Each of them had carried before him a large flag, red, green, and red. The Zobeir Arabs are mercenary troops, and acknowledge a kind of subjection