30

VILLAGE OF POORSHUR.

it behind. I was told by an Arab, that there was a spring of boiling water twenty miles beyond Poorshur. A small reservoir is built near the place whence it issues from the rock, for the convenience of bathing. Giafar jumped in, and remained some time; we followed his example, but the heat made us as quickly jump out again.

The village of Poorshur is the most agreeably situated of any we passed. A considerable portion of ground is cultivated around it, and the scene is diversified by several large

trees.

A mat was laid in front of a small hut; and on the contents of a basket provided by Mr. Hunter, we made a hearty dinner. While we were eating, a crowd of villagers formed a semicircle in front of us. Giafar distributed the fragments amongst them; which some of them tasted, apparently from curiosity. All the time we remained, village females passed to and from the spring for water, and generally without

NATIVES OF BELOOCHISTAN.

31

being veiled. They were natives of Beloochistan, a province of Persia, opposite Muscat. Some of them had good figures, and regular features; but the complexion of all was a dingy sallow.

Giafar played the great man amongst the villagers; and being an officer of the Imaum's, ordered them about, as if they were his slaves. He had now overcome his morning scruples, and drank great quantities of wine and brandy. Amongst other jokes, he tried to intoxicate a female, who applied for relief from rheumatic pains, by giving her brandy, and calling it medicine. He then made her sit down beside him, and eat some ham, which forbidden food he told her was European mutton. He accounted to us for his particular kindness to her, by saying, that she had a very handsome sister; who, if we wished, should be immediately forthcoming.

In returning, Giafar gave us an account of his life he was very anxious to come with us

32

GIAFAR'S CONDUCT.

to Persia; but we had seen too much of him to desire a further acquaintance.

We found some difficulty in procuring a boat at Muttra, to take us on board, as it was near sun-set, and the boats had not returned from their daily employment. We at last engaged a canoe; but one of the slaves demurred about rowing us alongside, lest we should press him into the service. Two persons navigate these canoes, which are formed out of a single tree. We were challenged several times in passing the batteries, and were informed that the port regulations did not admit our quitting the shore after dusk.

When on board, Giafar intreated us to give him either more money or more liquor; but we refused, as he had already had plenty of both. Finding us persist in our denials, he threw himself on his face, and repeatedly kissed the deck, to enforce his petition.

February 7.We sailed this morning at break of day, with the wind as favourable as it

SET SAIL FOR BUSSORAH.

33

could blow. Our numbers were increased by Lieutenant Taylor of the Madras Cavalry, his lady, and Mr. Harrison of the Bombay Marine. They had come from Bombay to Muscat in the Liverpool, and had been waiting for an opportunity to proceed up the Gulph, when Captain Alexander, with his usual kindness, granted them a passage. Lieutenant and Mrs. Taylor were going on a visit to their brother Captain Taylor, our political agent at Bussorah. Mr. Harrison was proceeding to join one of the Company's cruisers.

February 8, 9.—We passed Cape Jask on the 8th; and, on the evening of the 9th, arrived off the Quoins. These are five small rocky islands. Ships generally prefer going outside; but the wind was too scant to enable us to do

SO.

The wind continued favourable, and the weather delightful. The kindness and good humour of the officers and of every one on board, made the voyage quite a party of pleasure.

34

CAPE MUSELDOM.

We had a beautiful view of Cape Museldom, of the islands of the Tombs, and of Pulior, in succession: this last, the Пùλwpa of Arrian,* we passed within a mile. They are all rocky, and elevated three or four hundred feet. From the distance at which we were, they had a volcanic appearance; which is, I believe, their charac

ter.

February 10, 11.-We passed Cape Nabon on the 10th, and Cape Verdistan on the 11th.

February 12.-The S. E. wind, which had blown gently hitherto, now increased to a strong breeze. The next morning we arrived at Bushire, (or more properly, Abooshehr.) At this place travellers disembark, who intend taking the direct route through Persia. It was Captain Alexander's intention to have touched here, but the wind not serving to enter the harbour, and being favourable for pursuing our voyage, we took advantage of the opportunity of meet

* Arr. Hist. Ind., xxxvii.